Ankara

Understand

Until 1923, Ankara was a provincial town of less than 30,000. Then Atatürk made it the capital of the new Republic of Turkey, a deliberate shift from the Ottoman capital of Istanbul with its literally Byzantine political life. The plateau was swiftly covered by drab concrete buildings and snarled highways, leavened by parks and woodlands, and occasional striking architecture. Although it never wrested the cultural crown from Istanbul, Ankara has a rich heritage in its museums, galleries and mosques, and tourists who just transit on the way to Cappadocia are missing an important chapter in the story of Turkey and Asia Minor. The city was already old when the ancient Greeks called it "the anchor", Аγκυρα, which to a sea-faring people indicated a base or home. Hattian, Hittite, Lydian, Phrygian and Galatian civilisations had risen and fallen before them; Persians, Romans and Byzantines were yet to come. In 1402, Timur - the Tamburlaine of legend - stormed all the way from Kabul and won a battle that almost extinguished the Ottoman dynasty, but didn't stay to consolidate. So it was an Ottoman city and province for the next 500 years, giving the name "Angora" to long-haired cats, goats, rabbits and mohair textiles. Other European powers meddled in local affairs but concentrated on Istanbul, especially after Turkey was defeated in the First World War, and Greece was awarded much Turkish territory and tried to seize more. Atatürk rallied resistance in Ankara and the east, and the city's unconquered status made it a fitting capital. Ankara acquired populations of government workers, university students, and incomers from the impoverished countryside. It didn't attract foreign immigration, but there's a stream of diplomatic visitors, and Ankara is more outward-looking than other Turkish cities bar Istanbul. Locals are generally friendly and helpful, and students / lecturers are keen to show off their English, but service staff such as hotel receptionists are not as widely fluent as in Western capitals. You might want a translation app on your phone, especially if you're travelling further out.

Orientation

City centre is the broad strip from Ulus south through Sıhhiye to Kızılay:

- Ulus means "nation" as the republic's original parliament and other major institutions were here, grouped around the inevitable equestrian statue of Atatürk. - Sıhhiye means "sanitary works" as the Ministry of Health stands here. This district is bisected by the railway tracks, so on this page it's described as "south", with its rump north of the tracks described as Ulus. - Kızıl

Getting there

By plane

1 Ankara Esenboğa Airport (ESB IATA), Özal Blv, ☏ +90 312 590 4000. This has fewer international flights than Istanbul or the resort towns of Western Turkey, but Sun Express has direct flights from German-speaking cities with large Turkish expat communities, such as Munich. Turkish Airlines maintains a significant presence at the airport through its budget subsidiary AJet with thrice-weekly flights to London Stansted, Paris CDG and Madrid. Central Asia is well-served, with direct flights to Bishkek, Tashkent, Almaty and Astana, as are Baku (2-3x flights daily) and Tbilisi (4x weekly). The Gulf States, Egypt, Iraq, Syria, Lebanon, Jordan and Iran are also all reachable directly from Ankara.International operators are scare, but include Iraqi Airways, Qatar Airways, AZAL, Uzbekistan Airways and FlyDubai. Most other routes involve a change in Istanbul at IST or SAW airports. Both have hourly flights to Ankara, taking an hour, by Turkish Airlines, their subsidiary AJet or Pegasus. Ankara has flights from most Turkish cities: from the beach resorts and Ercan in Northern Cyprus these connect with the direct flights into Europe. The airport has the usual facilities including baggage storage and car hire. See Sleep for hotels in or near the airport. 200 tl by coach to city centre.. (updated Mar 2026) Transport is the major shortcoming of this airport. It's 30 km north of the centre, along a congested main road; there are no plans to extend the Metro here. Two companies operate express coaches to the airport - Ankara Air (cash only) and Havaş (cash or card). Download the Havaş app for an unreliable timetable. Both companies run from Kızılay, and Havaş also runs from the main AŞTİ terminal. Both cost 200 tl per person, with capacity for luggage. The Belko Air service referenced in many online guides no longer exists. Local public transportation EGO bus Route 442 runs from the airport (arrivals level, watch for a crowd on the very far end of the dropoff lane on the arrivals level) to Kızılay and takes 40-50 minutes to the train station. This bus is cheaper than the private options (130 tl in April 2026) but takes longer.

By train

Wikivoyage has an article on Rail travel in Turkey Ankara is on the YHT high-speed rail network, with trains:

- from Istanbul taking 4½ hours, 13 daily via Pendik (for Sabiha Gokcen airport), Gebze, Izmit, Arifiye (for Adapazarı), Eskişehir (for Bursa) and Eryaman (for west Ankara suburbs). In April 2023 the fare is 248 TL economy, 372 TL business. The temporary terminus for Istanbul is Söğütlüçeşme, pending the inter

Getting around

The city has a dense bus network, a two-line Metro, and an east-west suburban railway called Başkentray. There is no provision by any mode of public transport for travellers with restricted mobility. EGO (or toplu taşıma) is the municipality public transportation company.

By bus

All buses are operated by EGO. Most of them are white or blue, while the newer ones are red. Central bus stops often have displays of real-time services. Bus fares cannot be paid in cash, but can be paid by contactless card payment. However, unlike in other Turkish cities, foreign cards do not reliably work, so you should buy a Başkent Kart travel card from a kiosk or metro station or download the EGO Cep'te mobile app for QR scan. The same cards are used for the Metro, and each trip permits a transfer between bus and Metro not exceeding 45 min. Note these are not the Ankarakart, a discount card for Turkish students, teachers and elderly Ankara residents - this card might be available to you if you are a foreigner studying in Turkey, but not for tourists. Kızılay and Ulus are both hubs for privately operated minibuses and dolmuş, which usually display a list of destinations on a board behind the windscreen - if in doubt, ask the driver. Cash only.

By Metro

The Metro, run by EGO the city transport operator, has three lines, which intersect at Kızılay (the station's official name is 15 Temmuz Millî Irade Kızılay) Remarkably, EGO have contrived to muddle their numbering. M1, M2 and M3 do not operate as separate lines - you can stay on the same train all the way from Koru to OSB-Törekent - only if you want to get the M4 do you need to change at Kızılay. Ankara Metro main line (M1, M2, M3) runs from the northwest suburbs of Sincan, Törekent and Eryaman to city centre (Ulus, Kızılay and Sıhhiye) then southwest to Çayyolu. Another line (M4) runs north from Kızılay to Keçiören. Ankaray is styled differently yet is part of the same network. It runs east-west from Dikimevi via Kızılay to AŞTİ bus station. Tickets are identical to the EGO buses and valid for transfer, see above for prices, and you buy them at kiosks or metro stations. The Başkent Kart can also be used. Contactless payment is also possible, but not always reliable, presumably due to the poor internet connection at underground stations. All stations are announced both on a (really cool) analogue display and by voice in the metros.

Suburban railway

Başkentray is the suburban line, transecting the city between Sincan and Eryaman in the west, through city centre and the main railway station, to Kayaş in the

See

Citadel

Castle and its neighbor Hamamönü is home to Ottoman architecture. 1 Ankara Castle (1.3 km east of : Ulus). Daily 10:00-20:00. This volcanic outcrop has probably been fortified since the dawn of mankind, but the earliest traces are from the Phrygians of 8th century BC. The castle was reinforced by the Galatians then the Romans. You stroll up through cobbled streets to the double walls and can climb one of the towers, with views of the sprawling city and distant mountains. Free. (updated Apr 2023) North Tower is another bastion of the citadel, 200 m north of the castle. You're aiming for the fluttering Turkish flag. Sultan Alaeddin Mosque, Alitaş Sk (100 m west of castle). This is the city's oldest mosque, built in AH 574 (1178 AD) according to the inscription on its walnut mimber, but much modified since. (updated Apr 2023) Turk-Russian Friendship House (Türk-Rus Dostluk Evi) is a bright modern art gallery at Kale Kapısı Sk 20 below the castle, open daily 10:00-17:00. It has three floors, with Belarusian and Ukrainian sections too. There is a gift shop selling Russian and English books and DVDs very cheaply. There is an entrance fee of about 20 tl, but if the man at the door doesn't understand you he tends to let you in for free. 2 Roman Theatre, Bentderesi Cd (1 km east of Ulus), ☏ +90 312 310 7280. M-Sa 09:00-19:00, Su 10:00-17:00. Scrappy remains of the stage and backstage, they haven't restored the seating. Statues from the site are in the Museum of Anatolian Civilisations. Free. (updated Apr 2023)

3 Arslanhane Mosque (Ahi Şerafeddin Camii), Can Sk (1 km north of and Kurtuluş). Built in 1290 in Seljuk style, and repaired in 1330 under Ahi Şerafeddin hence its other name. Well worth the hike up the hill for its finely-carved interior, notably the ceiling supported by a forest of wooden columns. In 2023, five wooden mosques in Central Anatolia were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List - Aslanhane was one of them. (updated Apr 2023) Ahielvan Mosque, Koyunpazari Sk (200 m below Arslanhane Mosque). Built in the late 14th and early 15th centuries, it has a richly carved walnut mimber or pulpit. (updated Apr 2023) 4 Museum of Anatolian Civilizations (Anadolu Medeniyetleri Müzesi), Gözcü Sk 2 (800 m east of Ulus), ☏ +90 312 324 3160. Daily 08:30-17:30. Excellent display ranging from prehistory to the proto-Greek and Roman eras. Adult 80 TL. (updated Apr 2023) Kelime Museum, Gözcü Sk 11 (opposite Museum of Anatolian Civilisations), ☏ +90 312 311 6893. Tu-Su 10:00-17:00. Small private art museum. Signage is only in Turkish. (updated

Do

1 Ankara Opera & Ballet (Opera Sahnesi), Atatürk Blv 20, ☏ +90 312 324 6801. This opened in 1948 and looks it, the grandeur is kinda faded. It hosts theatre as well as opera and ballet. (updated Apr 2023) 2 Presidential Symphony Orchestra. (updated Feb 2025) 3 Atatürk Culture Center. (updated Feb 2025) 4 Feza Gürsey Science Center. (updated Feb 2025) 5 Goksu Park, off 1 TBMM Cd, Etimesgut (Bus 501, 502). Daily 06:00-23:00. Ranged around Susuz Lake, with an island restaurant, cafes and funfair. (updated Apr 2023) 6 Youth Park. (updated Feb 2025) 7 Seğmenler Park. (updated Feb 2025) 8 Dikmen Valley. (updated Feb 2025) Ankara International Music Festival is in April. Bilkent Mayfest is organised by Billkent University . Burn Sonance Festival of music is next held June. Jazz Festival is in Oct / Nov. Ankara Film Festival is next held on Nov. Şefika Kutluer Festival of music is in December.

Sports Football: MKE Ankaragücü were relegated in 2024 and again in 2025 so they play soccer in TFF Second League, the third tier. Their home ground Eryaman Stadium (capacity 20,560) is in the western suburbs, take the Metro to Devlet Mahallesi. MKE, since you were wondering, stands for Machinery and Chemical Industry. They will be returning to their homecourt of 19 May Stadium, starting from the 2026-27 season. - Gençlerbirliği SK share Eryaman Stadium. They were promoted in 2025 to Süper Lig, the top tier. - Ankara Keçiörengücü SK play in First League. Their home ground is Aktepe Stadium (capacity 5000) 8 km north of city centre on Adnan Kahveci Cd. - Ankaraspor were known as Osmanlıspor from 2014 to 2020 but have re-adopted their former name. They play in Second League at Osmanlı (Yenikent) Stadium, capacity 18,000, west edge of the city. Take the Ankaray train to its west terminus at Sincan then a local bus onward to Yenikent. Basketball: Türk Telekom BK plays in Turkish Basketball Super League and the EuroCup. Their homecourt is the Ankara Arena. Golf: courses and ranges within the city remain closed in 2023. Regnum Golf Country Club is 50 km southwest near Halaçlı village. Running: Annual Runkara International Half Marathon.

Buy

Useful to know: AVM stands for Alışveriş Merkezi, shopping centre. Citadel approaches up Kale Kapısı Sk have been a merchandising area for centuries. There are lots of tourist-trappy outlets for carpets, leather and fake antiquities. At least you hope they're fake, because if genuine it's illegal to export them. 1 Ankamall, Mevlana Blv 2 (: Akköprü), ☏ +90 312 541 1212. Daily 10:00-22:00. Huge shopping mall to the northwest with underground parking and food court. (updated Apr 2023) 2 Armada, Dumlupınar Blv 6, ☏ +90 312 219 1319. Daily 10:00-22:00. Large mall 500 m south of the bus terminal. (updated Apr 2023) Karum AVM, Iran Cd 21, ☏ +90 312 468 4984. Daily 10:00-21:00. Next to the Sheraton, this is the main south-side mall. (updated Apr 2023) 3 Metromall, 30 Ağustos Dumlupınar Cd 2, Eryaman, ☏ +90 312 504 1515. Daily 10:00-22:00. Large mall with cinema, bowling alley and food court. It's northwest edge of the city so visitors might use it arriving or departing on the Istanbul motorway. (updated Apr 2023) Kentpark AVM, Mustafa Kemal, 06510 Çankaya/Ankara (: ODTÜ or Soğutözü). 10:00 - 22:00. Large mall with many eateries and pubs. Expensive and aimed more at locals and university students than tourists. (updated Mar 2026)

Eat

Ankara has a variety of local/traditional and international food restaurants such as Asian, French, Italian, Persian and Somalian cuisine throughout the city.

Budget Kızılay has a pedestrianised block full of little cafes and takeaways. It's east of Atatürk Blv and north of Ziya Gökalp Cd. Çiğ köfte and regular köfte carts/shops could be found all over the city for a quick snack.

Ward Restaurant and café مطعم ورد, Bayındır-1 Sk (in Kızılay cafe block), ☏ +90 505 033 0022. Daily 08:00-00:00. This is the place to come for Iraqi food. (updated Apr 2023) Zelal Cafe, Yüksel Cd 24 (50 m north of Komagene), ☏ +90 312 431 3232. Inexpensive trad food. (updated Apr 2023) Nado's, Ataç-1 Sk 26 (100 m east of Kızılay cafe block), ☏ +90 312 433 3131. Daily 11:00-19:00. Friendly budget pizzeria. (updated Apr 2023) 1 Kırık Oklava, Cemal Gürsel Cd 16, ☏ +90 312 362 1989. Daily 08:30-22:30. Great place by Ankara University Cebeci Campus for inexpensive wraps and pancakes. (updated Apr 2023) Ulus has a bazaar with a row of many small food outlets. Gözleme, simit and similar snacks available cheaply. The area around the National Library (Millî Kütüphane) has many cafes and chain fast food outlets (Komagene, Tavuk Dünyası etc.) popular with students especially.

Mid-range Aşkabat Cd is a street west side of Anıtkabir with a slew of eating places while Esat Cd is home to Ankara's renown ASPAVAs.

Yargitay Evi Lokali, Milli Müdafa Cd 10, Kızılay (west side of Güvenpark), ☏ +90 312 418 5675. M-Sa 12:00-22:00. Inexpensive place looking onto Kızılay Square, quality erratic. (updated Apr 2023) 2 Tarihi Çiçek Lokantası, Necatibey Cd 15, ☏ +90 312 229 4400. Daily 08:00-21:00. Smart place with good cuisine. (updated Apr 2023) James Cook Pub, Tunus Cd 19, ☏ +44 312 419 9688. Daily 10:30-01:00. Good value pub and restaurant. (updated Apr 2023) Sudem is a tavern at Konur Sk 63 with tapas / meze-style servings and Turkish music, open daily 11:00-01:00. Korelee, Bestekar Cd 27, ☏ +44 312 418 0688. Daily 11:30-21:00. Delicious Korean food. (updated Apr 2023) 3 Cafe des Cafes, Tunalı Hilmi Cd 83/A, Kavaklıdere, ☏ +44 312 426 5511. M-Sa 09:00-23:00, Su 09:30-22:00. Slick European-style cafe with Italian and Spanish choices. (updated Apr 2023) Kıtır, Tunali Hilmi Cd 114 (south of Cafe des Cafes next to Kuğulu Park), ☏ +90 312 427 4444. Daily 12:00-00:00. Traditionally a rock bar but nowadays more of a restaurant. (updated Apr 2023) Ege (which means Aegean) serves seafood on Tunali Hilmi Cd, open daily 12:00-01:00. Göksu Lokantası, Bayındır-1 Sk 22, off Ziya Gökalp Cd (200 m eas

Sleep

Accommodation is clustered in Ulus north of the railway station, in Sıhhiye south of the tracks, and in Kızılay further south. A strip of mid-range business hotels follows D200 a few km west - these are more convenient for the bus station.

Budget 1 Bihostel (Deeps Hostel), Ataç-2 Sk 46 (,: Kizilay), ☏ +90 531 872 4975. Amazing to find such a friendly well-equipped hostel so central. Open all year with dorms and private rooms. (updated Apr 2023) Deeps Hostel 2, Southside at Libya Cd 2, ☏ +90 533 789 0886. Another branch.

Mid-range 2 Yeni Bahar Oteli, Çankırı Cd 25, ☏ +90 312 310 4895. Clean and helpful, you can find cheaper on this strip north of Ulus Square but most are dismal. (updated Apr 2023) Divan Ankara Çukurhan, 3 Depo Sk, off Gözcü Sk (facing Koc Museum near castle), ☏ +90 312 306 6400. Charming hotel in a han, a former marketplace. (updated Apr 2023) 3 Ankara Gold, Güfte Cd 4, off Tunus Cd, ☏ +90 312 419 4868. Clean friendly central place. (updated Apr 2023) 4 Hotel Midas Kavaklıdere, Tunus Cd 20, ☏ +90 312 424 0110. Welcoming central mid-price hotel. (updated Apr 2023) King Hotel, Güvenlik Cd 13 (east side of Parliament), ☏ +90 312 418 9099. Simple rooms but good value for the prime location. (updated Apr 2023) New Park Hotel, Ziya Gökalp Cd 58 ( Kolej), ☏ +90 312 458 0000. Boxy modern hotel, usually clean, some street noise. (updated Apr 2023) 5 Ramada, Tunalı Hilmi Cd 66, ☏ +90 312 428 8000. Functional central hotel, a bit worn. (updated Apr 2023) Radisson Blu, Istiklal Cd 20 (next to : Ulus), ☏ +90 312 310 4848. Good value hotel 500 m from railway station. (updated Apr 2023) Grand Mercure, Yaşam Cd 1 (west side of bus station), ☏ +90 312 999 0006. Next to bus station, but not the ideal flop after a long journey as they play loud music to 1 am. (updated Apr 2023) 6 Green Park Hotel, 1443rd Cd (block west of Mevlana Blv), ☏ +90 312 258 0000. Value-for-money hotel one km south of bus station, rooms kinda worn. (updated Apr 2023) Airport (ESB IATA): the hotel within Esenboğa airport remains closed in 2023. Ibis is 1 km south, and Holiday Inn Express is a further km south.

Splurge

Ankara Hotel, Celal Bayar Blv 78 (within railway station), ☏ +90 312 508 1010. Opened in 2022, this is a smart convenient place within the YHT Gar, pity the sound-proofing is inadequate. (updated Apr 2023) Mövenpick Ankara, Yaşam Cd 1 (facing Mercure west side of bus station), ☏ +90 312 258 5800. Slick business hotel, the only gripe is street noise. (updated Apr 2023) 7 Sheraton Ankara, Şehit Ömer Haluk Sipahioğlu Sk (off Arjantin Cd), ☏ +90 312 457

Go next

Northwest, Highway D140 follows an ancient trade and pilgrimage route from Baghdad to Ankara and Constantinople. Towns along it westbound are Ayaş, Beypazarı, Çayırhan and Nallıhan. Kızılcahamam 80 km north has thermal springs amid forests — bears and wolves lurk in Soğuksu National Park. Boğazkale northeast is the hub for visiting ancient Hattuşa, the capital of Hittites. Çağırkan Japanese Gardens are 10 km past Kaman on the road southeast to Kırşehir. South you pass Tuz Gölü ("Salt Lake") on the road to Aksaray. Aksaray is a laid-back city and great base for the attractions near Güzelyurt. Haymana 80 km southwest is a down-at-heel spa town with hot springs. Gavurkale and Kulhoyuk nearby have rock friezes and Hittite burial grounds. Gordion (Yassıhöyük) is 96 km west, near Polatlı off the highway to Eskişehir. One of the most important ancient cities in Turkey, it had been home for Hittites, Phyrigians, Persians, Greeks, and Romans since 3000 BC. The remnants of the city are displayed in Gordion Museum and Anatolian Civilizations Museum in Ulus.