Aksaray

Understand

Cappadocia was a Persian kingdom from 331 BC to 17 AD and its last independent ruler Archelaus thought it would be neat if this town was named Archelaïs. He was unpopular with his subjects and ran out of money - the Romans invited him to Rome to discuss ways they could help, and when they'd done discussing, Archelaus was mysteriously dead. So the Romans took over the territory and renamed the town Colonia, just so everyone understood their status. The town was on the Silk Road, the trading highway to Konya from the east of the country, and away over the far mountains from Persia. It came under the rule of the Seljuks from the 11th century, who adorned it with their distinctive architecture, building stout caravanserai to protect the travelling traders. The next brief dynasty was the Karamanids, then the Ottomans won it in 1470. By then the town had its present name of Aksaray meaning "white palace", of which no trace remains. Many residents relocated to Constantinople at that time, so there's a neighbourhood of Aksaray in present-day Istanbul. Later trade was of salt (essential in the days before refrigeration) harvested from the great salt lake to the north. Aksaray today is an industrial town that you pass through on the road to Cappadocia but don't linger.

Getting there

By bus 1 Otogarı (4 km west of town just off D750 / D300.). The main bus station is modern but has limited facilities. Take a dolmuş to get downtown—the fare may be included in your bus ticket, enquire when booking. (updated Mar 2023) Buses from Istanbul run every hour or so via Gebze and Ankara, taking 10 hours for a single fare in 2022 of 300 TL. (From Ankara takes 3 hr 30 min.) These buses continue via Konya and Isparta to Antalya, another 9 hours. Buses from Izmir run every hour or two via Uşak, Afyon and Konya to Aksaray; from Konya takes 2 hours. They continue across Cappadocia via Nevşehir, Göreme and Avanos to Kayseri. From Nevşehir bus station (west of town) a local minibus is no more than about €3 (50 TL as of May 2022). Larger bus companies will also take you along the ride, just don't pay more than for the minibus. Get off near the center of Aksaray, not at the bus station.

By road By road from Istanbul head east past Ankara onto O-21 towards Adana. Exit at Acıkuyu onto D757 / D750 into town. D300 is the east-west highway Kayseri-Cappadocia-Aksaray-Konya. D750 south eventually rejoins O-21.

By train There is no railway service to Aksaray. YHT fast trains run from Istanbul to Ankara and Konya.

Getting around

It would make sense to rent a car (check Google Maps and ratings), but as soon as you are out of the city hitchhiking is also possible. So, it can be a good idea to rely on buses and your thumb if you are not in too much of a hurry.

2 Eski Garaj. The former bus station on Atatürk Blv in town centre. Dolmuş routes radiate from here. (updated Mar 2023) 3 Dolmuş to local destinations (Tuesday Market). This is where dolmuş/vans wait for passengers to local destinations, most notably to Güzelyurt and to Ihlara. You can wait inside the van or "reserve" your seat by leaving a bag or jacket on it. To get here from the main otogari, take a dolmus that says Universitie and get off at NoraCity shopping mall. On Tuesdays, this becomes the local market so the vans will probably wait someplace else nearby. Departures to Güzelyurt:M-F 07:15 09:45 11:30 13:30 15:30 17:00 18:00; Sat 10:00 11:30 13:30 15:30 17:00 18:00 21:30; Sunday 11:00 13:00 15:30 18:00. (updated Sep 2024)

See

1 Grand Mosque (Ulu Camii), 717th Sk. It's also known as Karamanoğlu Mehmed Bey Mosque, as it was built in 1408 during the Karaman reign. The detached minaret was added in 1925. Free. (updated Nov 2022) Governor's Office and other handsome early Republican buildings are in the square 200 m southwest of Grand Mosque. The street on the square's north flank is optimistically called Turizm Cd. 2 Zinciriye Medrese, Belediye Cd 28. M-Sa 09:00-17:00. This was built in 1336 and has a fine facade. Enter from the east via the elaborate Crown Gate. In the 19th century it became a jail then a museum and is now a library and cultural centre. Zinciriye Mosque is 200 m north. Free. (updated Nov 2022) Kılıçaslan Hamams are 12th century bath houses on the riverbank opposite Red Minaret Mosque. In modern times they became garbage dumps but are under restoration. 3 Red Mosque and leaning minaret (Eğri Minare Camii), Nevşehir Cd 2. The mosque and minaret date from 1306, the Seljuk era. The red-brick minaret leans (hence Eğri) at an angle of just over 3°, with its upper section collared by steel braces. It looks more like an old factory chimney in Salford than the leaning tower of Pisa (tilt 4°), but you can't blame the tourist office for trying. The tilt probably reflects subsidence shortly after construction and appears stable. Free. (updated Apr 2023) Bridges. Walking from the leaning minaret down the river, you will see many beautiful bridges that get illuminate during the night. (updated Mar 2023) 4 Yusuf Hakiki Baba Complex. Includes the elegant tombs of Islamic saint Somuncu Baba (Sheyh Hamid-i Vali 1331–1412) and the scholar Cemaleddin (Şeyh Cemaleddin Aksarayî’ni, 12th century). There's also a mosque, library, display place and exhibition hall. (updated Mar 2023) 5 Aksaray Museum, Konya Cd 16 (500 m east of Otogar next to Grand Çakıroğlu Hotel), ☏ +90 3822155636. Tu-Su 09:00-16:30. Small but informative museum of the area's history and prehistory. Free. (updated Nov 2022) Science Museum (Aksaray Bilim Merkezi), Değirmen Sk (200 m north of main museum), ☏ +90 382 215 5636. Tu-F 09:00-17:00, Sa Su 10:00=18:00. Child-friendly science museum. Free. (updated Nov 2022)

Further afield Many more places are in close reach around Güzelyurt, like Ihlara valley.

6 Sultan Han (40 km west of town). Daily 08:00-18:00. A caravanserai of 1229, one of the finest Seljuk structures. Astride a trade route, it's a sturdy little fort designed against banditry and thievery not major assault. A decorated marble gateway leads into the open-air summer courtyard, now lined by souvenir sh

Do

1 Lunapark, 33rd Cd. (1 km west of town centre). Daily 14:00-00:00. A chain fairground. (updated Mar 2023) Ihlara valley – For hiking and rock-climbing near Güzelyurt.

Buy

Migros is the main supermarket, on Atatürk Blv opposite Eski Garaj. It's open daily 09:00-22:00. Nora City is a shopping mall 200 m northeast of Migros on Atatürk Blv. Lots of small neighbourhood stores, A101 is the main chain.

Eat

1 Künefeland, ☏ +90 3822136344. Daily 10:00-00:00. Just a 4.1 rating on Big Brother, but definitely worth a visit with sweet, delicious and affordable Künefe. (updated May 2022) Riverside along Ebulfeyz Elçibey Cd is the main eating strip. Choices include Sofra, Etci, Künefeland, Has Döner, Şehzade, Çiğerci Bahattin, Elçibey, Domino's Pizza, Omur Baba and Kardeşler. Several more in the park upriver.

Drink & nightlife

Mert Birahanesi is at Kalealtı Cd 58. Don't look for head-banging music in Teknobar just south, it's a construction company. Many cafes and restaurants serve beer.

Sleep

1 Grand Altuntaş Hotel, Muhsin Yazıcıoğlu Blv 150 (5 km northeast off D300), ☏ +90 382 212 0808. Smart comfy hotel on the highway to Cappadocia. B&B double 1,500 TL. (updated Nov 2022) 2 Grand Çakıroğlu Hotel, 5719th Cd (block south of road to bus station), ☏ +90 382 217 1010. Clean modern hotel 3 km west of town, free parking. B&B double 800 TL. (updated Nov 2022) Grand Saatçioğlu Otel, Turizm Cd (200 m southwest of Grand Mosque), ☏ +90 382 214 2020. Clean, comfy and central. B&B double 800 TL. (updated Nov 2022) 3 Melendiz Hotel (Ağaçlı), Recep Tayyip Erdoğan Blv (junction of D750 and D300), ☏ +90 382 215 2400. Modern hotel with spa at north edge of town, convenient for motorists. B&B double 1,000 TL. (updated Nov 2022) 4 Otel Ahsaray, Ebulfeyz Elçibey Cd 1, ☏ +90 382 216 1600. Smart clean hotel just off D750 junction. B&B double 1,000 TL. (updated Nov 2022) 5 Süvari Hotel, Taşpazar, 800, ☏ +90 3822155050. Comfortable and clean hotel with breakfast. From €27 B&B. (updated May 2022) Tezcan Otel is a basic but acceptable place off Vehbiby Cd, a block east of Zinciriye Madrasa. Üç Yıldız Otel, Bankalar Cd 57 (northwest side of Grand Mosque), ☏ +90 382 214 0000. Üç Yıldız means "three stars" which is about right. Very central, good value for comfort and welcome. B&B double 800 TL. (updated Nov 2022)

Go next

Güzelyurt and Ihlara valley – 30 km southeast are the closest parts of strange Cappadocia scenery, a fantastic landscape of volcanic tufa and ancient religious sites. Nevşehir, Göreme and Avanos – Cappadocia's main tourist bases. Kayseri – Further east has an ancient citadel and old town. Konya – Was the home of the Mevlani, the Sufi "whirling dervishes". Ankara – North, is a sprawling modern city but with many sights of interest in its historic centre.