Red Centre Itinerary

Understand

The only town of sizable population is Alice Springs, the remainder of the population being scattered in smaller communities. The oxidized iron in the soil gives the whole area its distinctive and immediately recognizable reddish glow.

Get in

By plane There is an airport in Alice Springs. Qantas has connecting flights to Darwin, Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide, Cairns and Perth. There is a flying shuttle to Uluru but Uluru has an airport (Yulara) too, so if you're just flying in to see the rock, you don't have to stop off at Alice. (Although you should!)

By train The Ghan, like the Orient Express, is a legendary long train ride over a large land area. In 2004, it was extended right through to Darwin. Don't expect complete luxury on the Ghan, however. The rolling stock is rather dated, and while adequate, it was purchased used, and has not been much refurbished. The scenery is nice though. Expect to pay a premium over the airfare.

By car Alice Springs is 17 hours drive from Darwin, and 18 hours drive from Adelaide. The Stuart Highway from Adelaide is well-maintained and goes right through Coober Pedy, an underground town famous also for being the opal capital of the world (and worth stopping off for a visit on the way). It continues through Tennant Creek and Katherine all the way up to Darwin. Most backpackers and travellers rent either a car or a campervan, given that insurance is included and you'll most likely get a reliable vehicle. Before renting, consider comparing campervan rentals and ensure you get the best deal possible. It is worthwhile reading the safety tips for Driving in Australia and always carrying water and ensuring you know the location and opening hours of your fuel and food stops. Read the rental car conditions carefully. Rental cars in Alice Springs do not offer unlimited free kilometres, however the government tourist office, Territory Discoveries can offer them. Rental cars hired outside of the Northern Territory may not be able to be driven into it. Driving after dark outside of the city limits is generally prohibited.

By bus Greyhound ply the route to Alice Springs from the north and the south.

Go

Day one

Make your way into Alice Springs. There are no international flights landing the Alice, so you will have to change planes at any of the big Australian cities (Sydney, Melbourne, Cairns, Adelaide, Perth or Darwin). Being in the middle of Australia, it takes more or less two hours to get to Alice Springs from any of the aforementioned cities. In Alice Springs, walk to the top of the Anzac Hill to get a good view of the town, and pay a visit to the Royal Flying Doctor Service or the School of the Air. They will give you an idea of the vastness of the surrounding areas and how the locals cope with it. In the evening, take a bite at a restaurant on the Todd Mall.

Day two

In the morning, pick up your 4WD (you will of course have made your reservation beforehand on the internet at Thrifty, Britz or any of the companies offering 4WD rental). Buy your supplies for the coming days (including a lot of fluids). Head West on the Larapinta Drive, and make your first stop only a few km outside Alice at the very interestingAlice Springs Desert Park, where you will learn a lot about the flora and fauna of the Australian Desert. Allow at least two hours for the visit. Continue West, enter the West McDonnell National Park. The mountain range is dotted with gaps, waterholes and gorges, (Simpsons Gap, Ormiston Gorge, Stanley Chasm...), making for refreshing short walks. If you have your bathing suit, you can even swim in some of the waterholes (for instance the permanent Ellery Creek Big hole). The water can be very cold compared to the outside air. Make a stop at the Ochre Pits, used by Aboriginal people to get ceremonial ochre. Make a stop for the night at Glen Helen Resort, a very casual but clean little place in magnificent surroundings, and actually the only option for a roofed accommodation around.

Day three

The real outback driving begins here. Wake early, walk to the Glen Helen Gorge, and take back your 4WD to continue on the Larapinta Drive, which becomes unsealed. Make a stop at the Redbank Gorge, and walk the 1-hour return trail (without forgetting to take water with you). Continue on the Mereenie Loop Road, an unsealed dirt road crossing Aboriginal la

Stay safe

This is a desertic area, so always bring a lot of water with you if you go out hiking, and in any case bring a lot of water with you while you are driving. It can get dramatically hot in the summer, and even during other seasons, when it is only very hot during the day you should be wary of dehydration. Always wear a hat, and put on strong sunscreen. Some unsealed roads are fairly remote, so take extra care, as mechanical problems can mean big trouble if you are not prepared. The distance between fuel supplies is not to be underestimated. Check the autonomy of your vehicle, and refuel accordingly. Remember that most of the land you are driving through is private property. Unless it is specifically marked as national park, it is someone's home and their business. Please don't drive off the designated roads, do not camp outside of designated camps, do not cut down trees or other vegetation. There is plenty of deadwood on the ground. Your fire must be totally extinguished before you leave - fires in Central Australia are devastating and it could be another 7 years before it rains again. Please remember to take all your rubbish with you, including any used toilet paper. Other visitors do not need to see this as part of their holiday! Remember your rubbish could have a disastrous impact on the biosecurity of the pastoral stations and businesses you have the privilege of driving through. For more information, carefully read Driving in Australia#Outback driving. They are not directly life-threatening, but flies can become annoying when they buzz around you by the dozens. You may want to buy a fly-net for your head.

Go next

Having just spent a few days driving around the Red Centre, you probably won't want to drive anywhere. However, if you do want to take your car out, the Stuart Highway runs from Darwin to Port Augusta via Alice Springs. Alice Springs also has an airport, with flights to Darwin, Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide, Cairns and Perth. You could also catch The Ghan north up to Darwin, or south to Adelaide.