Geneva

Understand

In 1536, a young man named John Calvin, fleeing the persecution of Protestants in France, spent a night in Geneva. As it turned out, he was to do a lot more there than sleeping. After being expelled from Geneva for nearly three years, Calvin returned triumphantly in 1541 to help elevate the city to the rank of a Protestant Rome. The intellectual influence of the Reformation extended to all realms of Genevan life: politics, economy, and administration. Geneva was an independent republic from at least the 16th century until it became a Swiss Canton on 31 Dec 1813. This is a point of some pride to the Genevois, who still refer to their Canton as the République et Canton de Genève. A favorite festival is the yearly celebration of the Escalade, which commemorates a failed attempt in 1602 by the forces of the Dukes of Savoy to invade the city by climbing and otherwise breaching the city walls. Having turned aside this invasion attempt at the cost of only 16 lives, Geneva had secured its liberty, since the House of Savoy was never again strong enough on this side of the Alps to attempt such an invasion. Geneva is still a very proud city. Some find it downright stuffy, although there is quite a bit more life to be found if you look under the surface, especially if you speak some French. Geneva is officially a French-speaking city, and the vast majority of the population speak French (81% in 2014). All advertisements, information, and signs are in French. With the large international presence and a strong diaspora, English and Portuguese (both about 10%) take a close second. Spanish (7%), Italian (6%), and German (5%) speakers abound. You may also occasionally hear Serbian/Croatian, Albanian and Turkish as well as Arabic surprisingly often.

Getting there

Geneva is the transportation hub for the French-speaking Switzerland and the western access point to the Swiss Alps.

By plane

1 Geneva Airport (GVA IATA also called Geneva Cointrin). It is served by several major European carriers and has good connections from several major Northern African and Middle Eastern airports. From North America there are a couple of daily direct flights from New York, Washington D.C. and Montreal. Geneva is a hub for the low-cost carrier easyJet serving a vast number of destinations in Europe including Amsterdam, Barcelona, Berlin, Edinburgh, London, Madrid, Manchester and Paris. The airport has a UBS bank with ATMs and exchange machines in the arrival area. There is an American Express office just beyond passport control in the departure lounge. There are several cafés and duty free shopping as well, open 08:00-23:00. To get into town from the airport, taxis cost approximately Fr. 30. The fastest way is by train which is the same price/tickets as with the buses as it is an integrated tarif network. The number 10 bus leaves every 15 minutes from 06:00 to 23:00. Get off at the 22-Cantons stop for train station. Bus 5 also goes to the central railway station but along a different route passing close by the UN building and stopping at rue de Lausanne. Both buses then continue to the southern side of the city. All trains leaving Geneva Airport train station stop at the main train/bus station within approx. 7 minutes, you can take every departing train as the same tarif applies to all of them. Train/bus tickets are around Fr. 3.00 (valid for one hour) and can be purchased at machines at the bus stop and in the train station. These tickets are valid anywhere in Geneva and suburbs, for trains, buses and yellow boats (with this ticket you can go as far as CERN, Anières or Veyrier). There is a change machine next to the UBS ATM. The best alternative is to take the free public transport ticket, hop on any train to Geneva (5 minutes) and either take a taxi from there or continue on the public transport system. If you have booked accommodations in the city, check your email for a free transport ticket that can be used for your trip to the city.

By train

The Swiss Federal Railway, abbreviated CFF in French, serves Geneva's main railway station (simply called Genève, but traditionally also called 2 Gare de Genève-Cornavin, or simply Cornavin) with direct trains to and from Neuchâtel, Biel/Bienne, Luzern, Winterthur, St. Gallen every hour, and Bern and Zürich every half-hour. Regional trains heading to Nyon, Morges and many other v

Getting around

Districts Old Town (vieille ville) and St. Gervais Paquis Plainpalais Hopital Eaux-Vives

On foot The old-town can be easily visited on foot starting anywhere around the tour boat dock on Lake Geneva, or if you come from the Cornavin station, walk down to the Bel-Air island and continue straight on uphill to the old town. Crossing the bridge (Pont du Mont Blanc), you'll get to the English Garden with the famous flower clock and a sculpted bronze water fountain. Then you can cross the street (Quai de General Guisan) and go up the hill (on Place du Port and Rue de la Fontaine) and up the long stairs passage and end up behind Saint Peter's Cathedral. After visiting the cathedral, which is Geneva's well-known landmark, you can exit the courtyard and be right in front of Geneva City Hall. From there you can easily walk down to the Bastions Park where you can find the famous Reformation Wall memorial. This park is very quiet and romantic, especially at the beginning of the fall season when the leaves start falling. See this walking route in pictures. Geneva is fairly walkable but the fact that the name of some streets change frequently as you walk can make navigation difficult. For instance the street from Bel-Air square to Rive roundabout has five different names on a section of less than a kilometre.

By bike Geneva is a great town to get around in by bicycle. Except for the old-town, the city is fairly flat, and though there are some streets that are dangerous to ride, there is almost always a safe, fast route to your destination. If you want to know the best routes, you should get a copy of the beautifully designed Velo-Love plan de ville, which is available at all bike shops in Geneva, or by [email protected] or ☏ +41 22 418-4200. Another excellent option is to rent ebikes. Bicy is renting ebikes starting at Fr. 89 per month (approx. USD 100). A social organization called Genèveroule lends bicycles free of charge (for four hours and then a fee of Fr. 2 per extra hour), from 30 April through 30 October. A passport or identity card must be shown and a refundable deposit of Fr. 20 is required. Six stations are located along the lake, behind the railway station, in Eaux-Vives (Terrassière) the Plaine de Plainpalais and at Carouge. While this service is quite convenient, be sure to bring ID and contact information, including hotel phone number, to speed up the paperwork.

By public transportation

Geneva, like most cities in Switzerland, is a marvel of public transportation efficiency. Transports Publics Genevois (TPG) provides frequent bus, tram, 'mo

See

1 Jet d'Eau, the Rade (visible from most of the Lac Léman waterfront). daily 10:00-23:00 (shut off in November for maintenance and during strong winds.). One of the crowning symbols of Geneva is the monumental Jet d'Eau, a fountain of water pumped 140m into the air. The spectacular plume was once an occasional pressure release for hydro-power generation on the Rhône River, but people liked it so much that in 1891 the city created a permanent pumped fountain. It's beautifully lit at night. Best viewed from a distance — the surrounding half kilometer is soaked with water. However, the more adventurous might want to try the pathway leading right up to the Jet d'eau -- prepare to get enjoyably wet! Free.

2 Cathédrale St-Pierre and Calvin's auditorium, Place St. Pierre (At the highest point in the Old Town). Jun-Sep: M-Sa 09:00-21:00, Su 11:00-19:00; Oct-May: M-Sa 10:00-12:00 and 14:00-17:00, Su 11:00-12:30 and 13:30-17:00. The new Espace Saint Pierre pass includes entrance to all three sites of Cour Saint-Pierre, a worthy space of unique spiritual and cultural importance. The Cathedral and its towers, originally Catholic, both embody the high point of the Reformed tradition and explore the origins of Christianity with an extensive archaeological site and they are now complemented by the International Museum of the Reformation on the ground floor of the Maison Mallet. An underground passage, reopened when the Museum was created, connects the two buildings. The archeological tour beneath the cathedral is excellent for archeology fans it explains the origins not only of the cathedral but the reason for Geneva's location back to pre-Roman times. Those willing to climb the steps of the Cathedral's towers will be rewarded with magnificent views of Geneva and the lake. Nearby, the Auditoire, where Calvin taught, completes a complex that is both representative of the past and open to current questions. The new Espace Saint-Pierre thus aims to contribute to our understanding of today’s world – between tradition and modernity, cultural experimentation and spiritual practice. These three buildings invite the visitor to explore the city’s history. Religious denominations aside, Espace Saint Pierre represents a spirit that continues to guide the city and citizens of Geneva today. For schedules and information about free live organ performances in the cathedral, go to the website Concerts cathédrale. Adults Fr. 16 (Seniors, Disabled, Students aged 16-25, and groups of more than 15 qualify for a Fr. 10 pass, children aged 7-16 qualify for an Fr. 8 pass. Entry to the chur

Do

1 Salève cable car (Téléphérique du Salève), Veyrier, France (Number 8 Bus to either Veyrier Douane or Veyrier Tournettes. Or line 41 to Veyrier-École). Just over the French border, this high alpine ridge has a stunning view of Mt. Blanc and the Lake Geneva area and miles of walking trails. A cute little corner shop in Pas de l'Échelle Village (France) sells about 100 varieties of French cheeses and is open on Sundays. Don't forget your passport. Association Genevoise des Amis du Salève (AGAS), ☏ +41 22 796 41 33. Organizes free hikes around Geneva every Sunday. Start at 10:00 (sharp) at terminus (End station) of bus number 8 at Veyrier-Douane. 2 Genève Plage (buses 2 and 6). May-September. There are many smaller places where to swim in either the rivers or the lake, but the largest one is Genève Plage (literally "Geneva Beach") at the eastern bank of the lake. It's a nice place to swim, enjoy the sun, play, barbecue, or just hang out. Football: Servette FC play soccer in Super League, the Swiss top tier. Their home ground is Stade de Genève (capacity 30,000) 2 km south of city centre. In 2025 it hosted matches in the UEFA Women's Euro Finals.

Events

March International Geneva Motor Show, in the Palexpo centre next to the airport.

May Caves Ouvertes. Free annual event. Sample wine at Geneva's wineries while exploring the canton's rural side.

June Bol d'Or. Yacht Race (biggest in Europe). Fête de la Musique, ☏ +41 22 418 65 32. For three days in June, the whole City of Geneva is a stage. Actually, there are on the order of 40 of them. The musical offerings include children's choirs, punk rock, chamber orchestras, jam bands, avant-guard jazz, klezmer, and drum and bass DJs. The venues are as diverse as the music, with stages inside and out of l'Usine, Parc des Bastions, and even Cathédral St. Pierre. There is also a wide assortment of international food and drink for sale, which can be a bit pricey, but highly worth it. The easiest way to get information is to just head to one of the parks listed above and find one of the free newspaper-style festival guides. It includes time-tables and maps. Additionally, be sure to wander around, as the festival is full of many excellent unofficial performances, including drums, juggling, and dance. Free.

August Fêtes de la Batie. A 16-day arts festival (usually starts the last weekend of July and through most of August) with installations and live shows in over 20 venues across the city. Very similar in feel to the Edinburgh Fringe Festival. 2025 is operating from 28 Aug to 14 Sep.

Decemb

Buy

Currency: Switzerland is a land of banks and financial institutions, so getting local cash from ATMs at banks, railway stations and within shopping malls should pose no problem. Euros are accepted at many larger stores and places that cater to international visitors. Eighth-series Swiss banknotes were withdrawn in April 2021 (10 Fr Le Corbusier, 20 Fr Honegger, 50 Fr Taeuber-Arp) but can be exchanged without time limit at any Swiss National Bank. You want the ninth series, see Switzerland#Buy. Chocolate can be bought at any number of specialty stores, but the stuff at the grocery is just as good for a fraction of the price (Fr. 1-3 a bar). Meanwhile, if you have a place to prepare meals the grocery stores in Switzerland offer the best possible dining deal for your money. For many fresh foods you'll pay a lot more than you are accustomed to paying in the U.S. or Britain. Wine and spirits cost much less than in Anglophone countries, and the local stuff is particularly cheap, and not just drinkable but quite good. Some say that the only reason Swiss wines are not well known internationally is that the Swiss drink all of it. Shopping for clothing and accessories can be disappointing in Geneva. Most offerings are usually expensive and uninteresting, unless you're really after that floor-length purple fur coat with the rhinestone trim. Geneva is home to several watch manufacturers, and there are many jewelers and horologers with a great selection. If you are interested in taking back some Swiss souvenirs for your relatives you can find them on the main street, Rue de la Croix d'Or, and also along the main streets leading down to the lake from Gare Cornavin. You should be able to easily find at reasonable prices. 1 Molard Souvenirs, 1 rue de la Croix d'Or. is a nice little souvenir shop with all the Swiss souvenirs you could think of but also many Swiss made watches can be found there and is only few minute's walk from the central railway station. Watches & Pocket watches. Most people will only know the most advertised brands but in Switzerland there are probably more than a hundred brands. Don't worry, if it is written Swiss Made on it, it's a top quality watch. Cuckoo clocks. Either mechanical the most traditional one and now also battery operated. Made in Germany but the chalet is the traditional Swiss cuckoo. Swiss Army Knives. Swiza and Victorinox being the two most well-known brands (Prices are same throughout Switzerland). Music Boxes. Related to watchmaking, music boxes are a very traditional Swiss made product. The brand Reuge is the most famous

Eat

Geneva has a huge number of restaurants for a city its size, and the international community means there's more variety than you'll find in most Swiss cities. On the downside, Geneva is possibly the most expensive city in an expensive country. Additionally, it can be quite difficult to find food on Sunday night, so it might be worth planning ahead or just visiting the more touristy region near the train station. If you have the possibility to cook your own food, self catering is a good idea to save money. If you are staying for a longer period, it's a good idea to make shopping trips to supermarkets in France where many foods cost less than half of what they do in Geneva.

Budget There are many budget spots located around the train station and in the nearby Paquis district, or near rue de l'Ecole de Médecine off Plaine de Plainpalais.

1 Buvette des Bains (Bains des Paquis), 30, quai du Mont-Blanc (jetée des Bains des Pâquis), ☏ +41 22 738 16 16, [email protected]. Wonderful place in the middle of the lake. Beach in Summer, fondue restaurant in Winter. Good "plat du jour" all day for Fr. 12 Fr. 12-20. 2 Espresso Club, rue des Pâquis 25 (just off of Place de Navigation), ☏ +41 22 738 84 88. M-F until 02:00. A tiny bar and three tables means this little local spot is usually packed with a very international crowd of people who know where to get the best pizza, salads, and pasta dishes in town, with many vegetarian selections. Espresso club keeps the ovens going late for late working customers and it's a nice spot for a café and newspaper afternoon as well. Unfortunately the quality of its customer service does not mirror that of its pizzas. Fr. 1-20. 3 Café Art's, rue des Pâquis 17, ☏ +41 22 738 07 97. M-F 17:00-02:00, Sa Su 11:00-02:00. Café Art's (sic) has a limited menu of salads and pasta dishes, but all around or under Fr. 15 and service is non-stop all day. Fr. 8-20. 4 Sing Fa la maison du Ravioli (Sing Fa dumpling house), Rue de la Calle 42, ☏ +41 22 321 75 38. morning-midnight (closed on Monday lunch), opened 7 days a week. Serves fairly authentic Chinese dumplings and noodles. Fr. 14-20. 5 Asia Garden (Boky), Rue des Alpes 21, ☏ +41 22 731 18 18, +41 22 738 37 94. 18:00-23:59. Large selection of Chinese and Japanese dishes. Quality Chinese food (it's always full of Chinese customers) but no fancy atmosphere. Fr. 14-20. 6 Piment Vert, 4 place Grenus (the small plaza behind the Manor department store), ☏ +41 22 731 93 03. Indian and Sri Lankan fast food in a charmingly appointed space. There's also a terrace during warm weather. Fr. 14-

Drink & nightlife

1 Les Brasseurs, 20 Place de Cornavin (directly across from the train station), ☏ +41 22 731 02 06. Tuesday to Saturday until 02:00, Sunday and Monday until 00:00. One of the few brew pubs in Geneva, Les Brass serves three flavours of home brew in the usual half pints, pints, and litre glasses or you can go for one of the giant plastic tubes filled with three to five litres. A small menu of pub food and a full restaurant in the back makes it a good spot to waste an evening. Beer: Fr. 3.40-7.40. 2 Café de la Gare, 2 Rue de Montbrillant (directly outside of the TGV arrival area of the Gare Cornavin). Open until 23:00 daily. Of the two restaurants attached to the Hotel Montbrillant this is the pick. The beautifully decorated but unpretentious Café de la Gare captures the laid-back feel of some of the best sidewalk cafés in Paris. It's a great place for dinner as well, with excellent Swiss, French, and Italian offerings. Beer and wine: Fr. 3-4. 3 Pickwicks, 80 Rue de Lausanne (Take the number 15 Tram from Cornavin toward Nations), ☏ +41 22-731 6797, [email protected]. W-Sa until 02:00, Su-Tu until 00:00. One of the half-dozen or so British pubs, Pickwicks claims to be the largest pub in Switzerland. Usually full of football watching expats eating fish and chips while sipping Guinness. Friday and Saturday night usually features live music. A laid-back, friendly spot. One of the best in Geneva for burgers and a dozen draft beers! 4 Alhambar, 10, rue de la Rôtisserie (Enter in back off of Parc Pélisserie), ☏ +41 22 312 1313, [email protected]. M 12:00-14:00, Tu-F 12:00-14:00 and 18:00-02:00, Sa 17:00-02:00, Su 11:00-00:00. A swanky cocktail bar above the Alhambra Theater. Pretty people in a pretty room, usually with a DJ. A small tapas menu early in the evening and a nice brunch on weekends until 14:00. (updated Apr 2020) 5 La Clémence, Place Bourg-de-Four. 11:00-00:00, every day. This cozy little bar on the central square of Geneva's old town more than quintuples in size from April until October when it is able to use a huge swath of the place as its terrace. During warm weather it's packed, but is such a lovely and central stopping point that it's worth the wait for a table - check out the gallery on their website. In the winter they have the best vin chaud in town. 6 Café Demi-Lune, 3, rue Etienne-Dumont. M-W 08:45-16:00, Th F 08:45AM-02:00, Sa Su 16:00-02:00. Located in a small street connecting to Place du Bourg-de-Four (Old town), this little café has a very charming attitude and atmosphere. A good place for after dinner drinks with good friends. 7

Sleep

There are a lot of hotels in Geneva, but very few of them are actually in anything like the budget range. Hundreds, many right around the central Cornavin train station offer a pretty standard rate of Fr. 135 per night for a single. If you arrive late and are willing to spend that it makes sense to look at the automated hotel board in the train station to find the nearest vacancy. It's hardest to find lodging during large international conferences, and trade shows. The latter, of which the prime example is the Salon d'Auto are usually held at Palexpo. It's worthwhile to do a bit of research to see if your arrival is likely to coincide with one of these events. For lower hotel prices, try the outlying French cities of Annemasse or Gaillard which are conveniently accessible via public transit from Gare Cornavin.

Budget 1 Youth Hostel Geneva, Rue Rothschild 30 (Tram 13 to Môle), ☏ +41 22 732 62 60. A clean well maintained place. Well placed for access to the bars and restaurants of the Paquis, and only a 15-minute walk from the central station. Floors, lockers, and doors, unfortunately, are all fairly loud, and if staying in a shared room, you must bring ear plugs. Fr. 25 and up. 2 City Hostel Geneva, Rue Ferrier 2 (from the main train station it's a five minute northbound walk up Rue de Lausanne), ☏ +41 22 901 15 00, fax: +41 22 901 15 60. A clean and hassle-free, if somewhat soul-less, hostel located near the budget food haven of Paquis and the central train station. Laundry, internet, lockers and communal kitchens are available for two to four person dormitories (Fr. 28 and up) as well as single (Fr. 63 and up) and double rooms (Fr. 70 and up). 3 Cité Universitaire, Avenue de Miremont 46 (bus number 3 to Champel), ☏ +41 22 839 22 22, fax: +41 22 839 22 23. A huge dorm space with 500 beds, which means that if all else fails you can probably sleep here and it's cheap. It is a bit far out of the old town though, about 2 km south on the bluff of Champel, which overlooks the Arve river across from Carouge. However, is right next to the crets de Champel line 3 stop. Because it is not a hotel, the reception closes at 21:00. Call first to make sure that there is availability. If you do stay there check out the tower of Champel in the morning. Fr. 50. 4 Hotel Formule 1, Route de Meyrin, 01210 Ferney Voltaire, France, ☏ +33 891 705 254. Right behind the airport on the French side. Inexpensive but still a good standard since it belongs to the Accor hotel chain. Walls are thin. Decorations are cute. Breakfast is available for an additional Fr. 4. It can be dif

Go next

Nearby Geneva is almost completely surrounded by France; the nearest major town is Annemasse (southeast of Geneva) and presents little interest. East of Geneva, Switzerland extends into the neighbouring canton of Vaud, which offers many attractions; the world heritage Lavaux region is forty minutes away by train, and has spectacular views of the vineyards, Lake Geneva and the French Alps. On the same riviera, both cities of Montreux (with its 12th century Chillon Caste) and Lausanne (with its Olympic Museum) have beautiful lake-side promenades and are very lively in the summer. In winter, many mountain resorts in the Swiss, French and Italian Alps are readily accessible from Geneva by car or public transport. Small towns in neighbouring France that can also be visited as a half-day trip are Saint-Julien en Genevois south of Geneva and Ferney-Voltaire (with the small castle once owned by the philosopher Voltaire) just north of the airport. You can also take city bus E along the eastern shore of Lake Geneva to the village of Hermance, which has a beach, a tower that can be visited and old houses typical for the region.

Further away Swiss destinations are almost all served by the CFF from the central train station (Gare Cornavin) while ski resorts in the French Alps and the Jura can be reached by bus from the central bus station off of Rue de Mont Blanc or from SNCF's Gare des Eaux Vives. The price of the bus ticket often covers ski lift tickets as well, be sure to ask. Here are just a few places which make a good day trip from Geneva:

Lausanne Montreux Gruyères Chamonix Evian Annecy Yvoire Thonon

By hitchhiking Hitchhiking is relatively safe and more common in Switzerland than France, for example, but almost as difficult if you're not a woman. The A1 motorway surrounds the city, with connections to the rest of Switzerland and neighbouring France. To hitchhike to the direction of Lausanne (North) take bus number 29 towards Gare Zimeysa and step out at stop Blandonnet. Walk back 200m Route de Meyrin towards the centre, across the bridge over the highway and you´ll find an on-ramp to highway towards Lausanne. (Another, even better possibility is to take tram 14 or 16 in direction of Meyrin and step out at the Avanchet. Then walk forward 200 m.) Walk down 100 m along the on-ramp and hitchhike before the speed gets high. The position is very good, speed of the cars low, visibility good and there's plenty of space for cars to stop. You should accept a ride at least to Nyon, where you can continue hitchhiking on the on-ramp. (Hitchhiking on the on-ramp