Belgrade

Understand

The core of the city is on a bluff overlooking the confluence of the Sava and Danube. Both rivers are navigable by large vessels: the Sava up to Sisak in Croatia, and the Danube from the Black Sea all the way up to Kelheim in Bavaria. It's been inhabited at least since 6000 BC and the earliest recognisable town was the Celtic settlement of Singidūn. The bluff now called Kalmegdan was fortified and its environs grew into the White City, beo grad. Belgrade has, however, suffered over 100 wars and was destroyed over 40 times. Those who've left their linguistic or cultural mark include the Slavs from 520 AD, the Ottoman Empire from 1521, and the Austro-Hungarian Empire from 1688. After the First World War, Belgrade became the seat of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes, from 1929 known as Yugoslavia. That entity after the Second World War was under Tito's distinctive brand of communism until he died in 1980. The Balkans in the following years were roiled by internecine wars as Yugoslavia broke apart, and in 1999 NATO forces bombed Belgrade to force the independence of Kosovo.

Serbia has not sought to join the EU, eurozone or Schengen area, but Belgrade presents a friendly face to western travellers, with English and German widely understood, and their bank cards accepted. Its overlapping layers of history and capital status create a fascinating vibrant blend. It's easy to reach and relatively inexpensive. The majority of places of interest are within 2 km of the citadel of Kalmegdan. Belgrade's extension north of the Danube, Kotež, is an ugly sprawl. Novi Beograd is a modern business district west of the Sava, with transport hubs, shopping and entertainment - this page uses its local name to avoid confusion with terms such as "New Belgrade bus station". Belgrade has a temperate continental climate, with hot rainy summers and cold snowy winters. Keep an eye on the weather forecast when planning your day, and dress accordingly. Košava is the fierce summer wind that's destroyed umbrellas and picnics on a scale that the city's multiple conquerors would admire. Tourist information is available within the city library at Kneza Mihaila 56, next to the entrance to Kalmegdan. It's open daily 09:00-20:00.

Getting there

By plane 1 Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport (BEG IATA, Aerodrom Nikola Tesla Beograd) is how most visitors reach Serbia. Most flights are by Air Serbia, especially from other Balkan cities such as Ljubljana, Sarajevo, Skopje and Zagreb, and within Serbia from Niš and Kraljevo. Other airlines are mostly traditional "flag-carriers" such as Lufthansa. Serbia doesn't have the EU "open skies" philosophy, so Wizz is the only budget carrier. The airport, for practical purposes, has a single terminal. Arriving, you pass through the airside lounge before passport control and baggage reclaim. Currency exchange kiosks here give rates within 5% of official rate, good value anywhere. Departing, passport control comes straight after check-in, then you enter the airside lounge. There's retail and eating but little general seating. Each departure gate has its own security screen and cramped waiting area without toilets, a thoroughly awkward design. Getting there and away: the airport is 18 km west of city centre.

By bus: Bus 72 runs every 30 min to Novi Beograd railway and bus station then to Zeleni Venac near Republic Square. It's free and takes 50 min, running daily 05:00-23:30. The bus disembarks passengers outside Departures and then circles around to pick up from Arrivals on the level below. Bus 600 runs every 30-40 min to Central Train Station (Beograd Centar-Prokop) via Novi Beograd station, free of charge (Jan 2026). Minibus A1 runs between the airport and Slavija Square, stopping at Fontana (Novi Beograd) and the main bus station. The buses are comfortable and air-conditioned. The fare can be paid in Serbian dinars or in euros (RSD400 or €4, as of Jan 2026); pay the driver. The trip takes 30 minutes. This bus also runs at night, with a short break from around 02:00-04:00. By taxi: read the precautions described below. Taxi options from safest to least safe: - Order by mobile app such as Yandex Go, CAR:GO or Pink Taxi Beograd. It tracks and saves your whole route, and calculates the price automatically. The taxi will meet you upstairs at Departures. - Order taxi by phone. The taxi will meet you at Departures. - Take a slip from a vending machine next to baggage claim. This guarantees a fixed price, and there should be no add-ons. Pick up is from Arrivals. - Taking a taxi waiting at Arrivals is risky, there are too many crooks.

By bus Buses are the best overland option from western Europe while the railway is being dug up. They run at least daily from Budapest (6-7 hours), Sarajevo (7 hours), Sofia (11 hours) and Thessaloniki (10 hours via Niš and Skopje).

Getting around

By public transport

Local public transport in Belgrade is free. This excludes trains, and express bus lines with an E route number. GSP Beograde (ГСП) operates city buses, trams and trolleybuses. Use their Beograd +plus app for timetables and live tracking. Buses are the mainstay of city transport, and you can get almost anywhere on them. Buses get very full at peak times, and some are full all day, notoriously the 26, 83 and 50. Their quality varies: those around the city centre or serving posh neighborhoods are usually newer air-conditioned vehicles, e.g. the Polish Solaris Urbino 18. Further out you may encounter some elderly specimens, e.g. the 30-year-old Ikarbus with wooden benches for seats. There are two main bus terminals for local buses: the former intercity main bus station (Železnička 4; next to the disused railway station) for the west and southwest suburbs, and Zeleni Venac for the north (Zemun and Batajnica) and some western parts of the city (Banovo Brdo, Žarkovo, Čukarica). It's a steep ten-minute walk from the main bus station to Zeleni Venac, with no bus between. Trams run along 11 routes. These all converge in the Slavija-Vukov Spomenik area except 11 and 13 which run to Novi Beograd. Line 2 orbits the centre. Trolleybuses follow 7 lines along two main corridors. One corridor is from Studentski trg (near Trg Republike) over Crveni Krst to Konjarnik and Medaković 3. The other is from Zvezdara to Banjica, plied by lines 40 (Banjica-Zvezdara), 41 (Studentski trg - Banjica) and 28 (Studentski trg - Zvezdara).

By train The suburban railway is called BG:Voz (BG:Train). One line runs from Batajnica in the west through Zemun and Novi Beograd to Beograd Centar then swings north through Karađorđev Park and Vukov Spomenik to Ovča across the river. The other line runs south from Beograd Center via Rakovica to Resnik. Trains run every 30 minutes, 15 mins in rush hour. Belgrade's metro project is a national joke. It's been talked about since the 1930s, with several great plans put forward, planning teams formed, and funding collaborations announced. Construction began in 2021 than abruptly stopped and has yet to resume.

By taxi Taxis are cheap by European standards, though far more expensive than anywhere else in Serbia. Car:Go is an Uber-like app and you can pay by card in the app. The other apps are Pink Taxi and Yandex Taxi. You can find the official info about taxis in Belgrade here. Fares are regulated by the government and are 270 RSD to start a ride, 96-125 RSD per km (depending on time of day) and 20 RSD per minute of waiting time.

See

Stari Grad The historic core of the city.

1 Kalemegdan is the fortress, park and earliest settlement of Belgrade, on a bluff overlooking the confluence of the Danube and Sava. It's free to access 24 hours. Within its bounds are multiple sites including the military museum, a couple of churches, and a zoo. Military Museum (Војни Музеј) (within Fortress), ☏ +381 11 334 3441. Tu-Su 10:00-17:00. Extensive collection of Serbia's military history. Good signage in English. Adult RSD350, con RSD250. (updated Nov 2025) Ružica church within the Fortress dates to the 15th century, was destroyed in the 18th century, rebuilt and again destroyed in World War I by the Central Powers. The present version was created in 1925, embellished by bronze soldiers guards in front of it and the unusual chandeliers made out of bullet shells, swords and bayonets. "Ružica" means little rose, though it's clad in ivy. Sveta Petka is a chapel next to Ružica built in 1937.

2 Belgrade Zoo, Mali Kalemegdan 8 (within Fortress), ☏ +381 11 262 4526. Daily Apr-Oct 08:00–20:30, Nov-Mar 08:00–17:00. Popular, but with a lot of animals in a small space. Adult RSD700, child RSD500. (updated Nov 2025) 3 Belgrade Cathedral (Саборна Црква Светог Архангела Михаила), Kneza Sime Markovića, ☏ +381 11 263 6684. Daily 07:00-20:00. The Cathedral Church of St Michael the Archangel is Orthodox, built 1837-40 in neoclassical style with a richly-decorated interior. Buried in front of the church are two notable Serbian linguists, Vuk Karadžić and Dositej Obradović. Free. (updated Nov 2025) Museum of the Serbian Orthodox Church (Музеј Српске Православне Цркве), Kneza Sime Markovića 6 (opposite Cathedral), ☏ +381 11 263 8875. M-F 09:00-16:00. Museum of church history with frescoes, mosaics, and icons. Good signage in English. Adult RSD200. (updated Nov 2025)

Residence of Princess Ljubica (Конак кнегиње Љубице), Kneza Sime Markovića 8, ☏ +381 11 263 8264. Tu-Sa 10:00-17:00, Su 10:00-14:00. Built in 1830 as a grand residence for Ljubica Vukomanović (1788-1843), consort of Prince Miloš Obrenović. It remained in royal use to 1842. Since 1979 it's been a branch of the City Museum, exhibiting architecture and furnishings of the 19th century, when Serbia was in transition from Ottoman to European styles. Adult RSD200. (updated Nov 2025) National Bank of Serbia has a visitor centre and museum at Kralja Petra 12, a block east of the cathedral. You get to print banknotes with your own face: with the advent of cryptocurrency, the bank probably thought "what the hell". It's open M-F 10:00-16:00. Museum of Applied Art

Do

1 Belgrade Arena is a large multi-sports facility that also hosts concerts and similar events. It's on Blv Arsenija Čarnojevića west of the Sava in Novi Beograd. 2 Ada Ciganlija is a river island in the Sava extending 6 km east-west by 700 m north-south, fused to the city mainland since the 1960s and now a large park and recreation area. There are road links at its west and near its east end, while the east tip has a stairway to Ada Highway Bridge. The river loop on its south side between the road links is now a lake for bathing and water sports, with a gravel beach. The island has walking and cycling tracks, sports pitches, golf, and picnic and barbecue areas; camping is not permitted. No bus crosses onto the island but several run along the mainland shore. Badminton Centar is a sports complex at the east tip. Markoni Sport by the east road link hires bikes and has other sports gear. Ice skating: Winter City Ada is by the east road link, see below for other city sites. Veštačka Stena is a climbing wall 500 m west. Aqua Ski is west end of the lake. Ada Međica is a small river island 100 m north of Ada Ciganlija. No boats cross between them, you might find one from the north mainland bank. (And see above for Great War Island, reached by pontoon bridge from Zemun.)

Luna Park is a chain of funfairs for younger children, with three sites in Belgrade: within Kalmegdan, on Zemun Quay west of the Sava, and 2 km southeast of the centre down Blv Kralja Aleksandra. Public Observatory (within Fortress). Four small telescopes enable daytime viewing of the city. On F Sa evenings from 20:30 if the sky is clear you can use the 110/2050 mm refractor and 200/2000 mm reflector for night viewing, with commentary and guidance from staff. The regular observatory is 3 km southeast in Zvezdara Park, and occasionally has guided tours. Adult RSD400, child free. (updated Nov 2025) National Theatre, Francuska 3 (next to National Museum), ☏ +381 11 328 1333. This puts on opera, ballet and theatre. The main hall is worth looking in at, decorated with gilt and artwork. (updated Nov 2025) BITEF Theatre puts on contemporary and experimental work at Skver Mire Trailović, by Skadarlija Market. Bowling alleys: Žabac is a chain, with centres at Višnjička 70 ("Karaburma"), Patrijarha Joanikija 2a ("Vidikovac"), Stari Merkator Shopping Centre Zemun and Kocic Tennis Centre Zemun. These also have pool tables and darts. Colosseum Bowling is at Dobanovačka 56 in Zemun. Ice skating is available in winter at Ada Ciganlija as above, in Trg Nikole Pašića, at Pionir Ice Hall and Olimp Sports Centr

Buy

For Serbian currency, see Serbia#Buy. Menjačnica is a chain of exchange offices, with a dozen city sites.

Delfi is a chain of bookstores, including English publications. Tržni centar is Serbian for "shopping centre" and there are dozens. The big three - UŠĆE, Delta City and Stadion - are some way from city centre. The closest are Rajićeva at Kneza Mihaila 54 by Kalmegdan, and Millennium at Kneza Mihaila 21, both open daily. The main supermarket chains are Maxi and Idea. 1 UŠĆE is the largest shopping mall in Serbia, open daily 10:00-22:00 with a great array of stores and a food court. It's at Blv Mihajla Pupina 4 in Novi Beograd, but just across Branko's Bridge so it's walking distance from the old city. Or take Tram 7, 9, 13 or any bus into Novi Beograd. 2 Delta City is the second largest. It's open daily 10:00-22:00 and has a cinema and food court. It's 1 km west of UŠĆE at Jurija Gagarina 16 in Novi Beograd, Tram 7, 9 or 13, Bus 95. Chinese Shopping Centre is 500 m west of Delta City in Blok 70 on Jurija Gagarina. The clothing is tat, but you can find Chinese food, spices and other exotica. It's open W-M 09:00-17:00. 3 Stadion is another large centre, 2 km southeast of city centre at Zaplanjska 32, take Bus 26. It's likewise open daily 10:00-22:00. Buvljak (Бувљак) means a flea market, occupying any edge-of-town brownfield site that developers have not yet cast covetous eyes on. Closest to the centre is at Šajkaška 70 in Zemun on Sunday morning.

Eat

For more on Serbian cuisine, see Serbia#Eat Belgrade has restaurants for every budget, from traditional Serbian kafanas and neighbourhood bakeries to fine dining, international cuisine and vegan cafés. Prices are generally lower than in Western Europe, although some of the city's top restaurants are comparable to those in other European capitals. Serbian cuisine is hearty and meat-heavy. You'll find grilled dishes such as ćevapi and pljeskavica almost everywhere, along with classics like karađorđeva šnicla, sarma (pickled cabbage leaves stuffed with minced meat and rice), podvarak (roasted sauerkraut with meat) and gulaš. Meals are often served with kajmak, ajvar, fresh bread and seasonal salads. Being at the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers, Belgrade also has a long tradition of freshwater fish. Many riverside restaurants and floating restaurants (splavovi), especially in Zemun, New Belgrade and around Ada Ciganlija, serve fish soup (riblja čorba), fish stew (riblji paprikaš), grilled carp, catfish, zander and perch. Some splavovi are quiet family restaurants during the day before turning into lively bars or clubs in the evening. For breakfast or a quick meal, try burek (a flaky pastry filled with cheese, meat, spinach or potato), traditionally eaten with drinkable yoghurt. Bakeries (pekare) are everywhere and are a reliable option from early morning until late at night. Other popular street foods include pljeskavica, ćevapi, pizza by the slice and palačinke (crêpes). A visit to a traditional kafana is as much about the atmosphere as the food. Many serve classic Serbian dishes accompanied by live folk or tamburica music in the evenings. The best-known concentration of traditional restaurants is in Skadarlija, although excellent kafanas can be found throughout the city. If you have a sweet tooth, try krempita (custard slice), šampita (meringue cake), baklava, tulumbe or urmašice, all widely available in pastry shops and cafés.

Food markets Zeleni Venac Market is a covered hall just south of Zeleni Venac bus station midtown, open M-Sa 07:00-19:00, Su 07:00-17:00. Bajloni Market is a larger hall at the junction of Džordža Vašingtona with Skadarska, open daily 06:00-19:00.

Budget Some places think that a vegetarian eats fish. If you don't, tell them bez mesa, bez ribe - without meat, without fish.

Tadich is a pie shop at Kralja Petra 75, open M-Sa 06:00-15:00. KMN, Zmaj Jovina 11 (Within Millennium Shopping Centre), ☏ +381 11 328 5591. M-F 10:30-17:00. Great selection of domestic cuisine, including veggie. Friendly efficient staff. (updated

Drink & nightlife

City tap water is safe to drink. Creaky old buildings may still have lead piping, so run the tap a few seconds first. Good domestic beers are Jelen, Lav, MB and Pils. Foreign beers are widely available and may be made under license in Serbia. Wines from Serbia and other Balkan countries are good if you pay a little more for quality. Cheap stuff may be disappointing. Rakija brandy is the national drink. The commonest is plum brandy, šljivovica or slivovitsa; other common varieties are grape, walnut, quince and pear. It can be bought in stores but Serbs insist that home-made rakjia is superior - look out for this at the food markets. Always toast your companions in the proper manner. Look them in the eye, clink glasses, say Živeli! (cheers!) to all present as if you mean it, and take a sip. Repeat as necessary as the long night wears on. Coffee is served Turkish-style unless you specify otherwise. The main groups of bars and cafés are along Strahinjića Bana, along Obilićev Venac parallel to Knez Mihailova, and by the Sava and Danube riversides.

Zuzu's is a cafe bar at Obilićev Venac 21 a block west of Republic Square, open daily 09:00-01:00. Gecko is an Irish pub at Obilićev Venac 17, open daily 08:00-00:00. Publin, Lomina 63. Daily 15:00-00:00. Relaxing small pub. (updated Dec 2025) Three Carrots Irish Pub, Kneza Miloša 16, ☏ +381 11 268 3748. M-F 09:00-00:00, Sa Su 12:00-00:00. Cheerful pub with food & music. (updated Dec 2025) Black Turtle, Kosančićev Venac 30, ☏ +381 11 328 6656. Su-Th 09:00-00:00, F Sa 09:00-01:00. Chain pub run by Black Turtle brewery, which has several other city outlets. Off-beat beers, e.g. mixed with lemon and blueberry syrup, as well as river views at summer sunset if you can grab an outdoor table. (updated Dec 2025)

Sleep

Hostels 1 Hostel 360, Knez Mihailova 21, ☏ +381 11 328 4523, [email protected]. Cosy hostel just off Republic Square. B&B double €36. (updated Nov 2025) Hostelche, Kralja Petra 8 (by cathedral), ☏ +381 11 263 7793, [email protected]. Clean, cozy place. They have free sheets, towels, laundry, games, books, Wi-Fi, welcome drink, coffee, and tea. (updated Nov 2025) 2 Sun Hostel, Novopazarska 25, ☏ +381 65 448 9575. Well-run hostel, clean and spacious, with dorms, apt & private rooms. Comfy, a/c, safe-lockers backpack size, free internet, friendly staff. Dorm €30. (updated Nov 2025) 3 Fair and Square Hostel, Svetog Nikole 68 (Bus 65, 74), ☏ +381 11 618 9940, [email protected]. Comfy rooms, large kitchen and public area as well as patio, friendly staff, cat and dog. Dorm bunk €25. (updated Dec 2025) 4 Balkan Soul Hostel, Kosančićev Venac 11a, ☏ +381 60 660 0685, [email protected]. Small but very social and cozy hostel with a well-equipped shared guest kitchen and lounge. Rooms have good air conditioning and wi-fi. Dorm €13. (updated Dec 2025) 5 ArkaBarka Floating Hostel, Zemun Quay, Novi Beograd, ☏ +381 64 925 3507, [email protected]. Friendly floating hostel on the Danube, with an on-board cafe-bar and sauna. Bunk & breakfast €42. (updated Nov 2025) Boatel Charlie and Green House are similar floating hostels just downstream. San Art Floating Hostel, Zemun Quay, Novi Beograd (100 m downstream from ArkaBarka), ☏ +381 63 238 278. Is it a chalet, is it a houseboat? Clean, well-run, friendly hostel near river confluence. B&B double €60. (updated Nov 2025) The Horse Monument Hostel, Čika Ljubina 1 (small street at northwest corner of Republic Square), ☏ +381 69 1991138. Check-in: 13:00-20:00, check-out: 10:30-12:00. A small hostel in the Old Town, close to Skadarlija bohemic neighborhood. Dorm bed 2000 RSD. (updated Apr 2026)

Budget Belgrade City Hotel, Savski trg 7 (Opposite bus station), ☏ +381 11 360 0700, [email protected]. Central hotel in Neo-Renaissance building, with gym, restaurant and bar. Double (room only) €90. (updated Nov 2025) 6 Villa Forever, Marsala Birjuzova 44, ☏ + 381 11 328 2781, [email protected]. Basic place near Brankov Bridge. Double (room only) €80. (updated Nov 2025) 7 Slavija Hotel, Svetog Sava 2, ☏ +381 11 308 4800, [email protected]. Basic but central. On-site business center and sauna. The rooftop restaurant serves breakfast. B&B double €80. (updated Nov 2025) 8 Hotel Srbija, Ustanička 127c (3 km south of centre), ☏ +381 11 304 4000, [email protected]. This

Go next

Novi Sad is a fine old city 100 km north of Belgrade, the standout being its Petrovaradin Fortress brooding over the Danube. Sremski Karlovci further down the Danube has many museums, churches and galleries. Oplenac hill has the Mausoleum of the Serbian Royal family. It's near the town of Topola in Šumadija region. Orašac, cockpit of the First Serbian Uprising against the Turks, is a little north of there near Aranđelovac. Vršac 60 km northeast of Belgrade is a wine-growing area. Spa towns include Aranđelovac, Mladenovac and Mionica-Valjevo. Viminacium is the extensive remains of the Roman provincial capital of Moesia. It's 80 km southeast of Belgrade near Pozarevac. Niš 240 km southeast is where transport routes divide: south for Skopje, Thessaloniki and Athens, and southeast for Sofia and Istanbul. Bar on the coast of Montenegro can be reached by an overnight train. Užice is a town near the border with Bosnia and Herzegovina. It has nice surroundings, and Tara Mountain and Mokra Gora can easily be reached from there. A train to Užice from Beograd Centar takes 3 1/2 hours and costs RSD 1040 (2026).