Turkmenistan

Understand

North Korea may get all the press, but even the Kim Family's cult of personality fades when compared to the surreal totalitarian state set up by Turkmenistan's former president, Saparmurat Niyazov. Turkmenistan is known for its extravagant prices, over-the-top bureaucracy, and hard-to-get visas. Tourism is not a priority for the government, and you are likely to be closely observed by the authorities curious as to what you're doing in the country.

History

Pre-independence The Turkmens, the natives of Turkmenistan, have their roots to the Oghuz Turks, a nomadic clan from the Altai region. Having previously been under Persian rule, Turkmenistan was annexed by the Russian Empire in 1881 and became an indigenized Soviet republic during the 20th century.

The Niyazov years Turkmenistan became an independent nation on 27 October 1991 after the dissolution of the Soviet Union. The former head of Turkmenistan's Communist Party at the time of independence, Saparmurat Niyazov, was elected president of the newly independent nation. Niyazov was widely regarded as one of the world's most eccentric and repressive dictators of his time. He adopted the title Turkmenbashi ("Father of All Turkmen"), renamed the city of Krasnovodsk to Turkmenbashi, built a 15-meter tall golden statue that rotates to face the sun in the capital city, and renamed the months and the days of the week. One of the most glaring and controversial aspects of his rule was the publication and forced adoption of the Ruhnama, meaning "Book of the Soul." Niyazov made it compulsory to read the Ruhnama in schools, universities, and governmental organizations; anyone who wanted to work for the government or acquire a driver's license had to pass a test on their knowledge of the book. In addition, Niyazov issu

See

Turkmen Carpet Museum (Ashgabat). An enormous collection including many antique carpets, some in designs that are no longer made, and the world's largest handmade carpet at 14x21m. Ancient cities, once major centers of trade and culture:

Konye Urgench Merv Nissa Natural features:

Karakum Desert Yangykala Canyon

Do

Horse trekking with Akhal Teke horses: Orexca offers a 12 day Turkem Akhalteke Horse Ride Wonders of the Karakum Desert with transfer from Ashgabar to Geokdepe Stud Farm, ride through the North East of the Karakum Desert to Tummekli, to the nomadic villages of Chyria, Gurrukly, Hakysh Gongurajy, Orazsahet and

Getting there

Turkmenistan has one of the most restrictive visa policies in the world. In practice, the only visa available for independent travelers is the transit visa, usually granted for 3 to 7 days. Tourist visas are only possible by joining a guided tour lasting the entire duration of your time in the country. Journalists are not allowed to visit Turkmenistan on a tourist visa, and need to obtain special permission in order to visit. Visa-free transit through Ashgabat is possible, but you'll be stuck at the transit area of the airport.

Visa requirements

Turkmenistan does not have an extensive diplomatic network around the world. You may need to travel to another country to apply for a Turkmen visa. While the Turkmen government has approved e-visa and plans to abolish the letter of invitation requirement, details are yet to be decided. You typically need to submit the following with your visa application:

A valid passport (with a validity of more than six months) A letter of invitation (LOI) that has been authenticated by the State Migration Service. (hotel reservations don't count) A copy of the first page of your passport. A copy of your identity card or driver's license. It normally takes 10 business days to process any kind of Turkmen visa. Prices for Turkmen visas are generally reasonable: a single-entry ten-day visa — which is what most people would apply for — costs US$35 in the United States. If your country does not have a Turkmen embassy, or if you desperately need to visit Turkmenistan, you can obtain a visa on arrival at Ashgabat International Airport. Make sure you have your passport and letter of invitation in hand.

Agencies There are more than 24 government approved travel agencies in the country. A full list of government approved travel agencies can be

Getting around

By plane Internal flights are possible on Turkmenistan Airlines which flies daily between Ashgabat, Mary, Turkmenbashi, Dashoguz and a couple of other destinations. Flights are subsidised, and due to fuel costs, extremely cheap. Prices are around USD5 for a flight from Ashgabat to Mary or Dashoguz. Turkmenistan Airlines operates with a fleet of Boeing 717s, purchased in 2001. You might not be able to photograph freely in and around the airport, though this is not unheard of elsewhere.

By train Turkmenistan has at least one daily train between major cities in the country. Timetable here. Journeys are slow but heavily subsidized (a few USD in the 1st sleeping class to anywhere in the country). Tickets can't be bought online and trains fill up fast so be sure to get one in advance. Train classes are typical for the ex-Soviet Union but most of the Soviet trains have been replaced with modern Chinese air-conditioned cars. Rail service in Turkmenistan is provided by Turkmendemiryollari (Turkmenistan railways), Ashgabat, phone 3632 255545, fax 3632 473858. On the principal trains they offer soft and hard accommodation with sleeping and dining cars.

By bus Turkmenistan has a well-developed intercity bus network, with regular services connecting most of the major cities and towns in the country. You can typically book bus tickets at the bus station or through a travel agency. Some bus companies also offer online ticket booking, so you may want to check their websites to see if this is an option.

By boat The Amu Darya is an important inland waterway for Turkmenistan.

By car The traffic culture in this country is markedly different from that of the West and poses a significant risk to both motorists and pedestrians. Traffic rules are routinely ignored, and speeding i