Ashgabat

Understand

Ashgabat's historical appellation is "The City of Love" but nowadays its modern nickname, "The City of White Marble" will seem vastly more appropriate. Saparmurat Niyazov, the president of Turkmenistan from 1985 to 2006, transformed the city from a relatively drab Soviet capital to a city of pure white marble buildings, many containing some rather overbearing symbolism (the Ministry of World Affairs building is a perfect illustration). Short of Pyongyang, Ashgabat is probably the best example of what happens when a city gets redesigned according to the vision of exactly one man, and most visitors will find themselves at first awestruck and then severely confused given the sheer similarity of most of the buildings.

Getting there

By plane 1 Ashgabat International Airport (ASB IATA). As of April 2018 flight: Belavia - Minsk; China Southern Airlines - Ürümqi; Flydubai - Dubai; Lufthansa - Baku, Frankfurt; S7 Airlines - Moscow; Turkish Airlines - Istanbul; Turkmenistan Airlines - Abu Dhabi, Almaty, Amritsar, Balkanabat, Bangkok, Beijing, Birmingham, Daşoguz, Delhi, Dubai, Frankfurt, Istanbul, Kazan, London–Heathrow, Mary, Minsk, Moscow, Paris (CDG), Saint Petersburg, Türkmenabat, Turkmenbashi, Yerevan

By rail Turkmendemiryollari (Turkmenistan Zeleznice) runs trains to Ashgabat from Turkmenbashi and Turkmenabad via Mary. Trains leave Turkmenbashi every second day at 19:30 and arrive in Ashgabat at 05:20 next morning or daily at 16:05, arriving in Ashgabat at 05:50 next morning. Prices from Ashgabat to Turkmenbashi or Mary vary from 18 to 25 manat in a sleeper train. Trains leave Turkmenabad at 18:00 and Mary at 00:25 daily and arrive in Ashgabat at 08:20 next morning, Another train leaves Turkmenabad at 21:55 and Mary at 02:50 every second day, arriving in Ashgabat at 09:35 next morning. There is a day train leaving Turkmenabad at 04:20 and Mary at 10:23, arriving in Ashgabat at 18:35.

By car Distances to Ashgabat: Almaty in Kazakhstan 2120 km, Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan 1870 km, Tashkent in Uzbekistan 1290 km, Samarkand in Uzbekistan 1000 km, Shakrisyabz in Uzbekistan 1100 km, Turkmenabad 590 km, Mary 350 km, Mashhad in Iran 270 km, Dashoguz 650 km.

Getting around

"Taxi", by which everyone means hitchhiking is probably the best way to get around Ashgabat. Simply hold out your arm at a downward angle with two fingers extended, and a car (usually a Lada) will stop. Say where you are going. If they nod, get in, otherwise they will go on and you have to wait for the next car. Expect payment to be about US$2 per person. Hitchhiking is an entirely safe mode of transport in Turkmenistan—everyone uses it. There are also official taxis which can be easily found in front of the arrivals hall of the airport and close to the railway station. They are safer but more expensive. Ashgabat has a very extensive and convenient bus system. The main public transport hub is Teke Bazaar. From that place any location within the city or in its environs can be easily reached. In the modern part of the city there are air-conditioned bus stops with detailed maps of routes of every bus line departing from a stop. The cost of a single ride is 0.50 manat. The price should be paid by every passenger to the basket located close to driver's seat while getting off the bus. Alternatively a multi-ride should be presented to the driver.

See

Museums 1 National Museum, Archabil sayoli 30 (in front of the Kopet Dag), ☏ +993 12 454954. 09:00-17:00. Hall 1 is dedicated to post-independence Turkmenistan, Hall 2 (upstairs) has a focus on ancient history with exhibits from Bronze Age sites and artefacts from Margiana. Halls 3 shows artefacts found at the Parthian site of Nisa. In Hall 4 a model of the medieval Merv, dioramas from Konye Urgench and Anau and the beautiful Merv vase are exhibited. Hall 5 and 6 display collections of weapons, musical instruments, silver jewellery and female dress. In Hall 7 (downstairs) a 20 m x 13 m carpet is exhibited. US$10, camera US$1. 2 Museum of Fine Arts (west of the Palace of Justice), ☏ +993 12 351566. W-M 09:00-18:00. The Central Hall has a large picture of President Niyazov Abundance of the Harvest. In the Independence Hall the heroic figures of the nation (Oguz Han, Togrul Beg, Alp Arslan and the poet Seydi) are shown. The museum also contains a reconstruction of the dragen freeze of the mosque of Arnau and exhibitions of Turkmen paintings before and after 1950. The first floor is devoted to Russian paintings from the 19th century and to European paintings, including minor works by Tiepolo and Poussin. US$10. 3 Turkmen Carpet Museum, 5 Georogly köcesi, ☏ +993 12 398879. M-F 10:00-13:00, 14:00-18:00. The museum houses antique carpets of the 18th and 19th centuries and modern carpets from all parts of the country. There is a nearly 200 m² carpet which was intended as curtain of the Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow, but proved too heavy. The pride of the museum is the largest hand-woven carpet in the world, as certified by the Guinness Book of Records. It covers 300 m² and was woven by 40 carpet makers on the occasion of the 10th anniversary of Turkmenistan's independence. 12,000 manat. 4 Museum of Turkmen National Values (inside the Independence Monument), ☏ +993 12 451954. Daily 09:00-12:30, 14:00-17:30. In the first floor, the museum houses displays of silver jewellery for women and horses, and replicas of the golden bull- and wolf-head sculptures from Altyn Depe. US$10, 25,000 manat for photographs.

Monuments 5 Oguzhan Palace, Galkynysh St. Presidential palace of Turkmenistan. It was the site of Saparmurat Niyazov's home prior to his death and then a new palace was built. Photography is not really allowed. (updated May 2022) 6 Turkmenistan Independence Monument (take bus 16 or 34 from the city center). The most important monument of Ashgabat in located in the southern part of Turkmenistan Independence Park, which covers an area 2 km long and 1 km wide.

Do

Theatres Mollanepes Drama Theatre, Magtymguly sayoli 79, ☏ +993 12 357463. W-Sa 19:00. US$0.25. Magtymguly Theatre, Shevchenko köcesi, ☏ +993 12 350564. F-Su 19:00. Turkmen musical performances Pushkin Russian Theatre, Magtymguly sayoli 142, ☏ +993 12 3654193. Sa Su 19:00. US$0.25.

Amusement Centers and Diversions 1 World of Turkmenbashi Tales, Garaşsyzlyk şaýoly. An amusement park centered around Turkmenbashi lore, with a magic carpet ride featuring Turkomen carpets. (updated May 2022) 2 Alem Center. Alem meaning universe, the site boasts another record-setter for the city, as it supposedly holds the world's tallest Ferris wheel in an enclosed space. (updated May 2022) 3 Ashgabat Botanical Garden (on Turkmen Agricultural University campus). Said to have around 500 botanical species from around the world set in different climate zones, but may only be partly open due to reconstruction (May 2022). (updated May 2022) 4 Aşgabat Golf klub binasy, ☏ +993 63 93 88 66. Daily 09:00-22:00. A golf course that the 2nd president of Turkmenistan summoned Jack Nicklaus to build for his enjoyment in spite of economic hardship in the city. (updated May 2022) 5 Asghabat Zoo (next to the international hippodrome). Tu-Su 09:00-18:00. Includes some interesting animals like camels and donkeys suited to life in the Karakum Desert and the Turkomen dog. (updated May 2022)

Buy

1 Berkarar, Ataturk St 80 (opposite Sport Hotel/Olympic Stadium), ☏ +993 12 46 87 87. Daily 09:00-22:00. A very plush and classy mall with ornate escalators; ice rink; 3rd floor mezzanine restaurants with Uzbek, Turkmen, European food; movie theater; and atrium. (updated May 2022) Tolkuchka Bazaar: 8 km north of Ashgabad, past the airport, Sa Su 08:00 to 14:00, also Th morning at a smaller scale. Buy a telpek (sheepskin) for US$10-15, a khalat (red and yellow striped robe for men) for US$15 or a typical red carpet for US$150-250. Be aware that you also need an export certificate, which you can get at the 'expert commission' behind the Carpet Museum, Görogly köcesi 5. 2 Hemdem Haly (inside Oguzkent Hotel), ☏ +993 65 81 13 19. M-Sa 09:00-20:00, Su 10:00-20:00. Carpet shop (don't forget to get your export permit at the carpet museum). (updated May 2022) 3 State Shopping Center Gulistan (Russian Bazaar), 2011 street, Azadi Street 72 (opposite Grand Turkmen Hotel), ☏ +993 12 92 07 28. Daily 08:00-20:00. Central universal market: fruit, vegetables, handcrafts, clothing.

Eat

1 Hezzet Restaurant, Oguzhan Street 5/7, ☏ +993 12 49 80 02. Daily 10:00-23:00. Authentic Turkmen food that you can eat seated on the ground in a yurt, or at a table, stuff like shashlik. (updated May 2022) 2 AlpEt Steakhouse, Rd of 9th Km (next to Hotel Ashgabat), ☏ +993 12 95 19 51. Daily 08:00-23:00. Have the steak, or just some coffee. (updated May 2022) Altyn Jam, Magtymgily sayoli 101, ☏ +993 12 93-02-22. European dishes and sweets.

Drink & nightlife

City Pub, Alisher Navoi 54a Köçesi. (updated May 2022)

Sleep

Like everything else in Ashgabat, hotels here are clad in white marble, absurdly huge, rather expensive and rattlingly empty. Don't expect to find any international brands.

1 Divan Hotel (formerly Hotel Nissa), Galkynysh St 70, ☏ +993 12 22-10-25, fax: +993 12 22-10-23, [email protected]. Apparently owned by family of Saparmurat Niyazov, this is a four-star hotel with air conditioning, swimming pool, pool bar, sauna, Turkish sauna, gym, jacuzzi. This is about the "best" quality hotel you'll find in Ashgabat (think somewhat run-down and a bit overpriced for its features), about a 10-minute walk from the war memorial and book shop. The restaurant has decent Italian food. Expect to come across lots of foreign workers, and women of dubious persuasion at the hotel bar. Some English is, however, spoken. 2 Archabil Hotel (formerly Hotel President), Arçabil şaýoly 54, ☏ +993 12 40-00-00, fax: +993 12 40 00 41, +993 12 40 02 22. Very skyscraper-like. $161 (May 2022). 3 Grand Turkmen Hotel (Гостиница "Грант Туркмен Отель"), ul. Georogly 7 (ул. Героглы, 7), 744000 Ашхабад, ☏ +993 12 51-05-55, fax: +993 12 511251, [email protected]. 4 Hotel Ak Altyn, Magtumguly ave 141/1, ☏ +993 12 36 37 00, +993 12 363701, fax: +993 12 363543, +993 12 36 34 94, [email protected]. Visa accepted (MasterCard is not). Contains offices of the British Embassy and American Information Centre, so it's a good place to stay if you find yourself needing assistance. Supposed to have Wi-Fi but is so slow it's effectively useless, internet available in telecom building less than a block away though. US$75 per night. 5 Hotel Ahal, Arçabil şaýoly 35, ☏ +993 12 48-87-39, fax: +993 12 48 01 92, [email protected]. 6 Hotel Nebitchi, Arçabil şaýoly 29, ☏ +993 12 48-93-60, fax: +993 12 489312. 7 Yyldyz Hotel, 2002/5 (Bagtyyarlyk), 17, ☏ +993 12 39 09 00. This dramatic teardrop-shaped hotel is the Turkmen equivalent of Dubai's Burj Al Arab, only there's no sea nearby to sail away. A panoramic restaurant sits on the 18th floor. US$450. (updated May 2022)

Go next

Nearby Nissa, 15 km west of Ashgabat, settlement dating back to the 2nd cent BC Geok Depe, 50 km west of Ashgabat, site of the final battle between troops of Turkmen and tsarist troops in 1881/84, Saparmurat Hags Mosque, erected by President Turkmenbashi Bakharden, 100 km West of Ashgabat, near the Kopet Dag mountains, cave with the Köw Ata Lake with hot thermal water, however, smelling of sulphur, a favorite place for excursion for people of Ashgabat at weekends. Nokhur, 150 km from Ashgabar in South Western Turkmenistan in the valleys of the Kopet Dag mountains. The people of Nokhur claim to be direct descendants of Macedonian warriors of Alexander the Great's times, Anau, 15 km south east of Ashgabat Altyn Depe is a settlement of the Eneolithic and Bronze Ages. It has been extensively excavated during the Soviet period. The settlement has specialised potter's quarters, evidence of a differentiation of the living quarters according to the wealth of their inhabitants and a monumental cult complex. During excavations a small golden head of a wolf and a bull were found. According to the Russian archaeologist V.M. Masson, the cult complex was dedicated to the Moon Good as in Mesopotamia. The site was abandoned in the middle of the second millennium BC.

Farther afield

By plane Turkmenistan Airlines offers domestic flights to Dashoguz (4 flights per day), Turkmenabat (3 flights on Monday, 4 flights per day in the rest of the week), Mary (2 flights per day) Turkmenbashi (6 flights on Monday and Friday, 5 flights per day in the rest of the week), and Kerki (once every day) as of August 2024.

By rail Turkmendemiryollari (Turkmenistan Zeleznice) (☏ +993 12 255545) runs trains from Ashgabat to Turkmenbashi and Turkmenabat via Mary. Train 24 to Turkmenbashi leaves Ashgabat every second day at 20:40 and arrives at Turkmenbashi at 06:55 next morning. Train 606 leaves Ashgabat daily at 20:10, arriving in Turkmenbashi at 09:15 next morning. Trains to Turkmenabat and Mary leave Ashabat at 07:40 daily, arriving at Mary at 17:00 and at Turkmenabat at 23:00. Train 195 leaves Ashabat daily at 17:20 and arrives at Turkmenabat at 07:35 next morning. Train 21 leaves Ashabat every second day at 22:10, and arrives at Mary at 05:25 and at Turkmenabat at 09:40 next morning.

By 4WD Ashgabat is probably the best place to hire someone to take you to Darvaza. The trip requires going off-road and is probably best not left to you average Lada.