Zurich

Understand

While Zurich is Switzerland's biggest city and a cultural centre of German-speaking Switzerland, Bern is the Swiss capital. It has a population of some 430,000 (2022) in the city, and 1.8 million (2011) in the metro area. Zurich is on Lake Zurich, where the lake meets the river Limmat, in the north of Switzerland. Despite it not being the administrative capital of any more than its Kanton, Zurich punches well above its weight in terms of major media and business headquarters and due to it being at the heart of Switzerland's excessively punctual and meticulously maintained train network and being home to Switzerland's most important airport, it is often the first part of Switzerland that visitors get to see.

While Zurich can be expensive, it is also clean, efficient and blessed with a high standard of living, which together with the high wages, explains why people bear with the high prices. Zurich has drawn people from the rest of Switzerland for centuries, but in the 20th and 21st centuries it has also begun to draw both people and companies from outside Switzerland and in some cases even outside Europe. This means that you will hear a lot more languages than just Swiss German and the overall atmosphere is a lot more cosmopolitan than you might think. Zurich is home to ETH Zurich, one of the world's leading technical universities, which has produced a number of Nobel laureates and numerous innovations and due to Switzerland's long history of neutrality it also houses headquarters of the likes of FIFA and the International Ice Hockey Federation. Zurich is also home to a number of large banking and insurance conglomerates that grew on the fabled Swiss banking secret and still enjoy good reputations in the financial sector. Most shops and supermarkets are closed on Sundays. Travellers should plan their shopping for Saturday.

History The city's Latin name, Turicum, was used for a Roman customs station at the Limmat, which has some remnants today. The Alemanni, a Germanic tribe, settled in the 5th century. While the Church used to rule early Medieval Zurich, the Guilds (Zünfte) took power in 1336, establishing Zurich as an autonomous republic. The Guilds have survived until today, though their role today is mostly ceremonial. Zurich became the fifth canton of the Swiss Confederacy in 1351, and has been its capital at times. However, Switzerland's famous neutrality and stability is a modern thing, as many battles have been fought in and around Zurich. The canton lost the Old Zürich War between 1440 and 1446 against the confederacy, and was re-admitte

Getting there

By plane

1 Zurich Airport (ZRH IATA) is Switzerland's largest and busiest airport, handling roughly 30 million passengers a year. It is in the community of Kloten and it is 10 minutes by train from the main station. The trains depart about every 10-15 minutes, during the day, but less frequently at earlier or later hours. A single ticket to Zürich HB (the hauptbahnhof, or the main station) costs Fr. 6.80. Several bus lines connect to the airport and provide access to the Winterthur region near it. There is also tram 10 from Zurich terminating at the airport, a rather slow option, but it might be faster door to door for some destinations in Zurich. Most major airlines fly to Zurich but flag-carrier Swiss is still the biggest player at ZRH and offers the widest range of connections. Almost every large hotel in Zurich provides shuttle buses from the airport to your hotel. The stops for these buses are a short walk to the right from Terminal 1 arrivals. Zurich Airport has high passenger costs due to several noise reduction and approach restrictions. Most no-frill airlines fly to Basel which is 1 hour away by train. EasyJet offer several flights to Germany, the UK and Southern Europe. If you are travelling without a Schengen Visa to another destination in Europe (via Zurich airport) and if you are not a European citizen, you must not stay in Europe for longer than 90 days — even if your final destination would allow citizens of your country to stay for more than 90 days. Failure to do so will lead to very high fines (around €8100) should you try to leave Europe via Zurich airport . Zurich Airport offers free WiFi for all guests for a maximum of two hours. A mobile phone capable of receiving texts in Switzerland is required. Travelers have to connect to the "ZurichAirport" network and register their cell phone number. The user will receive the access code via text message. After the free hour, there is a five-hour waiting period before you can access the next free hour.

By train Regular trains to and from other Swiss and European cities leave from and arrive at Zürich HB (Hauptbahnhof), the main train station, located in the city centre at the end of Bahnhofstrasse, with easy access to mass transit. Zurich HB is served by the local S-Bahn commuter trains, InterCity (IC and ICN) connections throughout Switzerland, Italy, Germany's IC and ICE, France's TGV Lyria and Austria's Railjet with some direct connections reaching destinations as far in Eastern Europe as Budapest. While Switzerland itself does not have many high speed lines, Zurich is connected to

Getting around

Public transport Zurich is famous for its highly efficient, clean and safe public transport system, managed by the Zürcher Verkehrsverbund (ZVV) which covers the entire canton of Zurich and extends into nearby regions. The network includes trams, buses, S-Bahn (suburban trains), cable cars, and boats. The size and complexity of the network may be daunting at first, but you will soon realize that there are many ways to get from one place to another, all efficient. Tickets and timetable information for Switzerland is available on sbb.ch or can be obtained using the SBB Mobile (iOS, Android apps) (requires a working internet connection). Alternatively, use ZVV's own timetable app or purchase tickets with the ZVV-Tickets app. The free Wemlin App (iOS, Android) gives you offline access to timetable information and network maps for the canton of Zurich area without internet connection and is therefore ideally for on the go usage in case you don't want to use data roaming. You may want to consider using the EasyRide function of the SBB Mobile app, which allows you to "check-in" to rides and calculates the cheapest ticket charge at the end of the day. The Zurich transit system is divided into numerous fare zones. A ticket for zone 110, which covers the city proper, will suffice for most travelers. The more zones you pass through, the more you'll have to pay for your journey. Each zone has the same price, except Zurich (110) and Winterthur (120), which cost double. There are single tickets, punch cards (Mehrfahrtkarten, these provide six rides for the price of five), day cards (these are designed for round trips and valid for 24 hours), monthly cards, and annual cards. The monthly and annual cards are collectively referred to as ZVV NetzPass. You should buy tickets using the SBB app. Tickets can also be purchased from a ticket vending machine before boarding or from one of the ticket selling kiosks in major train stations. The ticket vending machines are in German, English, French and Italian and offer almost all regular tickets available (not personal tickets though). Simply enter your destination and pick a ticket. The machine may suggest several routes, of which you generally want to pick the cheapest one – never pick the "All zones" option unless you actually intend to pass through eight or more zones! Your ticket gives you access to all modes of transport within the selected zones, at any time of day or night. Both the ZVV and the SBB app provide a "check-in/check-out" mechanism: check in before you start your trip, check out when you end your trip. The

See

Most of the interesting sights are in the old town around the river and lakefront.

1 Bahnhofstrasse. One of the busiest and best-known shopping streets in the world. Highly refined. Certainly a must-see for every tourist in Zurich!

2 Lindenhof. The hill in the heart of the old town. A beautiful view of the city and one time location of a Roman fort. 3 Lake Promenade (Utoquai, Seefeldquai). Especially during summer, the lake is a beautiful place to spend the evening or the weekend. Starting from Bellevue, the boardwalk goes for about three kilometers along the lake towards Tiefenbrunnen. About halfway from Bellevue there is a meadow where you will find thousands of people on a sunny day. 4 Grossmünster, Zwingliplatz. Nov-Feb 10:00-17:00, Mar-Oct 10:00-18:00. Old Romanesque church, symbol of reformed Zurich, where reformer Huldrych Zwingli was appointed the people's priest in 1519. Go up the tower for a great view of Zurich, though the stairs can be quite small and steep. Tower Fr. 4, Fr. 2 for students. (updated May 2017) 5 Fraumünster, Kämbelgasse 2. November-February 10:00-17:00, March-October 10:00-18:00. Old Gothic church (former convent) with window paintings made by Marc Chagall. No photos or videos allowed inside. Fr. 5. (updated May 2017) 6 Schanzengraben. A small canal that used to be part of the city fortifications between Limmat and Sihl. From the main station, go to Gessnerallee, find the stairways down to the tiny creek, and walk all the way to the lake. 7 Langstrasse. Red light district of Zurich, with more drug dealers and police than usual, but interesting because even this most notorious spot in Switzerland is so clean and safe. The area is the most overtly multicultural spot of the town. Ateliers and stylish bars sit side by side the strip clubs. 8 Friedhof Fluntern. cemetery with lots of famous people most notably James Joyce who lived in Zurich for quite some time, the writer Elias Canetti and a few nobel prize winners are also buried there (updated Dec 2017) 9 Zoo, Zürichbergstrasse 221, ☏ +41 44 254 25 00, [email protected]. Mar-Oct 09:00–18:00, Nov-Feb 09:00–17:00. With the new Masoala Rainforest Hall, the Zoo is really worth a visit! Fr. 26 for adults (Fr. 19 for those under 25). (updated Jul 2017) 10 China Garden, Bellerivestrasse 138, ☏ +41 44 380 31 51. Apr-Oct daily 11:00–19:00. This small but beautiful Chinese garden was offered to the city of Zurich by the Chinese city of Kunming as symbol of gratitude after Zurich helped Kunming with technical knowledge. It can be very well combined with a stroll along the lake or a visit to

Do

Take the 1 Polybahn, Central 1. Operates M-F 06:45–19:15, Sa 07:30–14:00, closed on Su and public holidays. A 19th-century funicular, up the steep hill for a fine view. Starts at tram station Central and goes up to the ETH. Nice terrace up there. During the week, the student cafeteria below the terrace is also open to the public. Fr. 1.20, free with Zürich Card or a valid ZVV ticket for Zone 110. (updated Aug 2015) 2 Oberer/Unterer Letten. If you go to Zurich during summer take your swimwear with you. The clean river at both the public river baths "Oberer Letten" (mainly youngsters) and "Unterer Letten" (also families) is used by the locals to cool down after hot days. Jump in upstream and the river will carry you down. Right in the middle of the town there is also a wooden floating bath for women only Frauenbad Stadthausquai at the start of the Limmat. Showers and free lockers are provided but you must bring your own lock. Free. (updated Dec 2017) Go skiing by train — Buy a snow'n'rail ticket (train & skipass) at the Hauptbahnhof during winter months, train out in morning, back in evening. Flumserberg is the closest large ski-resort, popular with people from Zurich, with a good range of runs for beginners and intermediates. Retreat to the right side of the resort if the rest gets busy. Take a 3 trip on the Zürichsee. With one of the two old steam ships. There are a few different routes you can choose from, which will vary mainly in the distance. Journeys usually start from Bürkliplatz. Steam ships operate between April and mid-October. ZVV tickets valid. (updated Aug 2015) Rent a small rowboat or pedalo. Take a 4 Limmat river cruise, Landesmuseum Pier, [email protected]. Offers views of the old town and Lake Zurich. Operates between April and October. Fr. 4.30, free with Zürich Card or a valid ZVV ticket for Zone 110. (updated Jul 2015) Go up 5 Uetliberg. A hill overlooking Zurich. You can hike up, or take a train from the "SZU" part of the main station on the S10, which takes about 20 minutes from Zurich HB. Enjoy the 360-degree view from a tall viewing tower (not for vertigo sufferers!) This is also the Start of the Planetenweg (planetary walk), a 12-km (8-mile) walk along the ridge with models of the planets along the way. These are scaled down in true proportion to the solar system. To look at Zurich from the other hills, go to the Irchel (Tram station Milchbuck) or Käferberg (Bucheggplatz, walk up the hill and keep right of the forest). Free with Zürich Card or a valid ZVV ticket for the Zones 110, 154, and 155 (costs 4 zones). CHF 2.50 to go up the o

Buy

Currency: Switzerland is a land of banks and financial institutions, so getting local cash from ATMs at banks, railway stations and within shopping malls should pose no problem. Euros are accepted at many larger stores and places that cater to international visitors, though the exchange rate offered will be much worse than what your bank offers you. Eighth-series Swiss banknotes were withdrawn in April 2021 (10 Fr Le Corbusier, 20 Fr Honegger, 50 Fr Taeuber-Arp) but can be exchanged without time limit at any Swiss National Bank. You want the ninth series.

Shopping districts

For shopping in Zurich there are three different areas in the centre:

1 Bahnhofstrasse. Runs from the Zürich Train Main station "Hauptbahnhof" right down to the lake. Bahnhofsstrasse is famous for being one of the most exclusive and expensive shopping streets in the world. Here you can get anything from diamond rings to chocolate to fur coats. Globus and Jelmoli are two fiercely competitive department stores, both of which carry items from many high-end brands. 2 Niederdorf. The Old Part of Zurich which expands from "Bellevue" by the Lake right to "Central" which is just over the river from the train station. The Niederdorf is more for young people. Aside from a lot of fast food places you will find a lot of trendy clothes stores here. 3 Löwenstrasse. Runs west of Bahnhofstrasse from the main train station, has shops selling everyday items and a large branch of Migros, a department store chain.

Swiss clocks and watches You may be disappointed to know that most of the cheap watches and clocks in Switzerland are imported from China and Japan for their cheap quartz movements (including most of the wall clocks and alarm clocks sold at department stores, for example). Don't purchase a "Migros Budget" clock for Fr. 8 thinking it is a Swiss clock! Nevertheless, real Swiss-made clocks are still well known for their quality and reliability, and intricate mechanics. The following are true Swiss-made watches:

Swatch, possibly your best bet for a "cheap" Swiss watch (Fr. 40-100) and perhaps better suited for the younger generation. Available in their stores on Bahnhofstrasse and various other locations, or in department stores. M-Watch, based on both Mondaine and Migros and available in Migros Electronics stores such as the one on the 2nd floor of the Lowenplatz location. Also relatively inexpensive (Fr. 40-100). Do not confuse this with "M-Budget" which is an imported cheap watch. Mondaine is known for their use of the famous SBB railway clock face. You can buy a replica of the SBB c

Eat

The quintessential Zürich dish is Zürcher Geschnetzeltes (Swiss-German: Zürigschnätzlets), sliced veal in a cream and wine sauce. Various kinds of grilled wurst (sausages) are also popular. These are most often accompanied by boiled potatoes, rösti, a Swiss potato pancake (grated potato, formed into a pancake then pan fried until crisp in butter or oil similar to hash browns) or chnöpfli, in German sometimes called Spätzle (small noodle dumplings). Veal is still very popular, though the use of turkey and other meats as a substitute is growing. While fondue (melted cheese in a central pot, dip bread into it) and Raclette (cheese melted in small portions, served with potatoes and pickles) are not really local to Zürich (they come from Western Switzerland) they are commonly available at restaurants aimed at tourists. Swiss people usually eat those dishes at home and only during winter. The bread available in Zürich is generally delicious. There are many varieties, and your best bet is to go to a bakery or a supermarket in the morning or just after work hours, when most people are doing their shopping and bread is coming out fresh. Try grilled bratwurst from street stands, served with a large crusty roll of sourdough bread and mustard, or sandwiches made with fresh baked bretzeln (large, soft pretzels). A typically Swiss bread is the zopf, a braided soft bread that is commonly served on Sundays (the other name for it is Sonntagszopf). For breakfast, try a bowl of müesli, which was invented as a health food in Switzerland. The Sprüngli confectionery store tea rooms serve a deluxe version of this fiber-filled cereal with whole milk, crushed berries and cream. There are a huge variety of cheeses available at the supermarkets, specialty stores and markets, as well as all kinds of hams and dried sausages. Dairy products are generally delicious, especially the butter. Do not miss the supermarkets! You should take a thorough look through Migros or Coop and maybe even assemble your own lunch or dinner some time. Even the cheap, budget prepackaged desserts in the supermarket exceed the quality of what you may be used to. For those with a sweet tooth, there's a huge variety of chocolates to enjoy, from the cheapest chocolate bar to individually handmade truffles. (See the Shopping section above). The chocolate bar displays at the supermarkets will overwhelm you! Also enjoy pastries and cakes from the various Konditorei scattered around town. In pastry shops, you can also find special pastry from Zurich: The most famous of them is probably Tirggel, a rather hard pastry

Drink & nightlife

Zurich has a lot of places to go out. There are a lot of clubs, restaurants, cafés, bars but also many museums and theatres. Few of them are particularly wild, but there are certainly many options. The most common drinks in Zurich include: Beer, Swiss white wine (e.g. Fendant), Swiss red wine (is delicious), and Spanish red wine (is generally good value here). At apéro time (after work), you will find many people drinking a Cüpli (glass of sparkling wine).Tap water in the city is of high quality and safe to drink. Bring a reusable bottle to save money and reduce plastic waste.

Bars 1 Bar & Lounge 42, Neumühlequai 42 (5 walking minutes from Zurich HB (Main Train Station)), ☏ +41 44 360 73 24, [email protected]. Daily 09:00-00:30. New York in the middle of Zurich. Exclusive whiskey, unique cocktails, premium liquors, snacks, a homemade gin and an elegant smoker's lounge with a broad selection of cigars. (updated Apr 2018)

Centre

2 Bierhalle Wolf, Limmatquai 132 (At the northern end of the old town, facing the river), ☏ +41 44 251 01 30, [email protected]. A lively beer hall often with live music. In addition to the beer selection, they serve great local food. 3 Edi's Weinstube, Stüssihofstatt 14. nice wine bar in Niederdorf where you can get the cheapest okay wine in Zurich (updated Dec 2017) 4 Federal, Main Station (Tram 3,4,6,7,10,11,13,14, Bus 31, Main Station). A big brasserie-like bar inside the Main Station with a choice of 100 Swiss beers. 5 Nachtflug, Stüssihofstatt 4 (Niederdorf). Stylish, coffee and some snacks during the day, large choice of drinks at night. 6 James Joyce bar, Pelikanstrasse 8. Where the writer used to drink. Now mostly frequented by bankers. 7 Oliver Twist, Rindermarkt 6, ☏ +41 44 252 47 10. An Irish/British pub with a good atmosphere, and many English-speaking foreigners. Has English ales on draught. 8 Öpfelchammer (apple chamber), Rindermarkt 12, ☏ +41 44 251 23 36. Not a real pub or café, they only serve wine or water. But if you succeed in climbing over the roof beams, you get a free glass of wine to drink hanging upside down and you can mark your name into the wood afterwards. 9 Widder Garage, Widdergasse 6, ☏ +41 44 224 25 26. By far the best stocked whiskey bar in town, with a separate whiskey menu containing 250 single malts. In the famous hotel of the same name. (updated Dec 2017) 10 Corazón, Zähringerplatz 11, ☏ +41 44 261 09 59. A Spanish-themed bar with a good selection of wines and excellent service. 11 Bohemia, Klosbachstrasse 2 (at Kreuzplatz, just up from Stadelhofen), ☏ +41 44 383 70 60,

Sleep

Zurich is the financial centre of Switzerland and most travellers come with an expense account. The hospitality sector focuses therefore mostly on the 4- and 5-star sector. Zurich is known for its superb hotels, but these won't come cheap. Best is to go on a company rate, because rack rates are sometimes ridiculous.

Budget Couchsurfing. Has a lot of members in Zurich. Public transport is very fast and good, so also consider staying in surrounding areas instead of in the city centre. Remember that couchsurfing is about the community and not only a free place to crash. (updated Oct 2017) 1 Youth hostel, Mutschellenstrasse 114 (2-kilometre, 15-minute tram ride from the centre), ☏ +41 43 399 78 00, [email protected]. A little way out of the centre, but the city is easily reached by public transport (take the S-Bahn to Wollishofen and walk over the hill). A clean and sleek facility, if a little quiet. From Fr. 42 for a dormitory bed with breakfast; Fr. 104 for a single room with shower. 2 Hotel Marta, Zähringerstrasse 36, ☏ +41 44 251 45 50, fax: +41 44 251 45 40, [email protected]. A "clean and friendly" place which doubles as a hostel and a one-star hotel. They also have weekly and monthly rates for rooms, and a couple of studio apartments. (updated Aug 2018) 3 Otter, Oberdorfstrasse 7, ☏ +41 44 251 22 07, fax: +41 44 251 22 75. A good hotel for the price. The rooms have been decorated with the kind of care that one normally expects in a much more expensive hotel, each with its own theme. You can choose from the jungle room with its hammock, or the pink Carmen, or go for the top floor apartment. Each floor's three rooms share a bath, shower and toilet (WC), with the exception of the apartment which has its own shower. Fr. 115 for a single room, Fr. 150 for a double, and Fr. 200 for 2-person apartment (Fr. 240 for 4-person apartment). 4 Hotel Splendid, Rosengasse 5. This hotel is relatively cheap. The rooms are clean but spare. Private showers and bathrooms are not available, you share with your floor. What is really great is the location, right close to the Gemüsebrücke and the city centre. Fr. 62-85 for a single, from Fr. 160 for a 4-person room, plus Fr. 2.50 City-Taxe per person. 5 Etap Hotel, Technoparkstrasse 2 (Zurich West), ☏ +41 43 276 20 00, fax: +41 44 276 20 01. This hotel is in a great place if you want to party, next to some great bars and restaurants. The rooms are clean and comfortable. It's also near a tram station, which takes 10 minutes to get to the main train station. 90 Fr (low season) to Fr. 115 (high season) for a single r

Go next

Some interesting destinations nearby:

Baden — This town is known for its castle ruin and the thermal baths. It takes 15 minutes by train to get there from Zurich. Greifensee — A lake and village next to the nearby town of Uster. The village of Greifensee is within a conservation area and very untouched. Lucerne — Probably Switzerland's most popular destination. Go there to see the famous chapel bridge or the impressive transport museum. Rapperswil — Located at the opposite end of lake Zurich. A small, picturesque town, good for a stroll. It is possible to go there by boat from Zurich. The Rhine falls — Europe's largest waterfall. It is located near Schaffhausen, which has a nice old town in the Renaissance style. Winterthur — Around 25 minutes from Zurich, this city is worth a visit on a rainy day to visit some of its many museums. Technorama is the most popular one, an interactive science centre. A bit further away, but also worth a day trip:

Appenzell — As close to the stereotypical image of Switzerland with wooden farm houses and traditional clothes as it gets. An interesting visit is the cheese factory, where the Appenzell cheese is made. Augusta Raurica — Close to Basel, this is one of the best preserved Roman sites north of the Alps. Bellinzona — Since the opening of the new Gotthard tunnel in 2016, the Italian speaking part of Switzerland is less than two hours away by train. Go to Bellinzona to see its three castle, which are inscribed as a UNESCO world heritage site. Biel — Traditional watch making town. Visit the Omega factory to learn more about the watch industry. Chur — Not only a nice city, but a good hub for hiking or skiing in the mountainous Graubünden region. Fribourg — Home town to the famous Swiss fondue. A good choice if you want to make a short trip into the French part of Switzerland. Solothurn — A small city on the river Aare noted for the giant cathedral and baroque old town.