York

Understand

Orientation Although only the sixth-largest city in Yorkshire and having no official status, York is regarded as the county's capital, and is also positioned just east of its geographic centre. For 1800 years, it was the largest and most important city in northern England, though today has a rather modest population just shy of 200,000 people. Despite its size, York packs in more history and culture than many much larger places, and is a fascinating and beautiful destination any time of year.

York city centre is a compact and dense warren of mostly pedestrianised streets lined with centuries-old buildings in a mix of architectural styles, from Roman and Viking remnants, through timber frame medieval structures, to much grander stone and brick edifices from later periods. The centre straddles both banks of two rivers - the Ouse (pronounced ooze) and the Foss - which merge just south of the castle. At the city's heart stands the imposing York Minster, one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in the world, and the mother church for northern England's Anglican community. It serves as the cathedral for the Archbishop of York (Stephen Cottrell, since 2020), who holds the third-highest office in the Church of England, after the King and the Archbishop of Canterbury. York's old town is completely encircled by a series of defensive medieval walls. At just over 2 miles (3.2 km) long, 13 feet (4 m) high, and 6 feet (1.8 m) thick, they are the UK's most extensive and best-preserved city walls. Most visitor attractions are within or just outside these walls, so you will seldom find yourself venturing into York's outer neighbourhoods. However, if you do, you will find them pleasant and residential, mostly containing red brick houses from the 19th and 20th centuries. There is a modern university campus around Heslington in the south-eastern suburbs, a large racecourse called the Knavesmire in the south-west, and extensive parks along the Ouse's journey through the northern and southern suburbs. This urban sprawl is bounded by a modern day city wall of sorts: the ring road separates York from its rural surroundings, the well-endowed farmlands and villages of the Vale of York.

History York has played a crucial role in many eras of English history, and the city's own story closely mirrors that of the country as a whole. Evidence of human settlement in York dates back to 8000 BC, but the city wasn't founded until 71 AD by the Romans, who named it Eboracum, as a Latinisation of the Celtic Eburākon, meaning "yew tree place". Eboracum began as little more than a military ou

Getting there

By plane 1 Manchester Airport (MAN IATA), 85 mi (137 km) south-west of York, has global direct connections, including from North America, Africa, the Middle East, Pakistan, East Asia, the Caribbean and pretty much everywhere in Europe. A direct train to York, operated by Transpennine Express, runs every 30 min, taking 1 hr 50 min. By road, from the airport, follow the M56 onto the M60 Manchester Ring Road (east/anticlockwise), then at junction 18 take the M62 towards Leeds. This takes you across Saddleworth Moor, the highest section of motorway in Britain; in good weather, it's very scenic, but snow and extremely dense fog can badly affect or even close the route any time of the year. At junction 29, take the M1 north. This soon merges onto the A1 (M), and from here you take the next exit for the A64 towards York. 2 Leeds-Bradford Airport (LBA IATA) is the closest airport to York, 31 mi (50 km) away by road. It has decent connections across western Europe, and is mostly served by budget carriers. Aer Lingus and KLM connect to their respective hubs at Dublin and Amsterdam Schiphol. The airport is north of Leeds, so you can mostly dodge the city traffic by following the A658 past Harrogate to the A59, where you pick up signs to York. By public transport, take bus A1 from the airport into Central Leeds. From here, you can take the train: Crosscountry, LNER and Transpennine Express all operate trains to York, taking 25 min and offering a 'turn-up-and-go' frequency. The London airports obviously have a huge range of flights, especially Heathrow (LHR IATA) and Gatwick (LGW IATA). However, by public transport you have to travel into central London before heading north to York from King's Cross Station: from Heathrow use a combination of the Elizabeth line or Heathrow Express and London Underground; from Gatwick take the Thameslink train to St Pancras, adjacent to King's Cross. LNER trains depart King's Cross every 30 min and take roughly 2 hr. Alternatively, with a car you have to endure a long journey (at least 5 hours in good traffic) around the M25 ring road and up the A1.

By train Wikivoyage has a guide to Rail travel in Great Britain.

York is on the East Coast mainline, with LNER trains running every 30 min or so from Doncaster (20 min), Durham (50 min), Edinburgh Waverley (2 hr 30 min), Leeds (25 min), London King's Cross (2 hr) and Newcastle upon Tyne (1 hr). Hourly Crosscountry trains link to York from Birmingham New Street (2 hr 45 min – 3 hr 15 min), Bristol Temple Meads (4 hr 10 min), Plymouth (6 hr 15 min) and Sheffield (45 min – 1 hr). Transp

Getting around

The City of York Council have a website named i-Travel York, which provides unbiased information for travelling around the city on foot, by bike, by bus and by car.

On foot The best way to discover York: the city centre is small enough to walk from one side to the other in 20 minutes, and there is only a short distance on flat terrain between most of the sights. That said, the winding, narrow streets can be confusing and aren't always well-signposted, so a map is handy. Some streets within the old city (i.e. inside the city walls) are pedestrianised during the day, closed to all cars except disabled drivers and emergency vehicles between 10:30AM and 5PM daily. You can see a map of these roads, locally known as footstreets, on i-Travel York. Some streets are subject to additional controls, for instance the Shambles is pedestrian-only at all times. Take care walking around the city centre when the roads open to car traffic at 5PM, as they fill up quickly with delivery vehicles servicing local shops and businesses. If you enjoy walking, you must do the 2-mile (3.2-km) city wall circuit (see below for details), which offers views all around and should give you a feel for York's layout. Additionally, footpaths line the River Ouse for most of its journey through the city north to south, and there is a lot of parkland to discover alongside with the promise of wildlife sightings – see i-Travel's wildlife walks booklet for ideas.

By bike York is one of the most cycle-friendly cities in the UK - there's an extensive network of cycle routes in and around the city, and most of the traffic controls have been set up to give cyclists priority. There are no significant hills in or around the city centre, which is a big help. The river path along the Ouse contains some wonderful bike routes out of the city. Also beware that police and CCTV operators take a very dim view of cycling without lights after dusk, or cycling in the city centre pedestrianised area before 5PM, and will hand out an on-the-spot £60 fine for doing so. Download your York Cycle Route Map for free from iTravel York.

3 Get Cycling, 22 Hospital Fields Road, YO10 4DZ (1 mi (1.6 km) S of city centre, via riverside walk or buses 7, 18, 25, 26, 36, 42, 200, 415), ☏ +44 1904 636-812, [email protected]. M-F 8:30AM-5:30PM, Sa 8:30AM-5PM, closed Su and bank holidays. Cycle hire shop with a range of conventional, electric and tandem bikes and trikes. Also rents out disability-adapted and children's bikes. Maps and route suggestions available on request. Conventional/electric/kids' bikes: 4 hr £25/£40

See

There's plenty to see in York, but if you leave without visiting the Minster and either the Jorvik Viking Centre or the National Railway Museum, you're doing it wrong. If you only have a day, prioritise two of these. Aside from these three standout attractions, the joy of York is in wandering the ancient streets and coming across surprising buildings and beautiful views all by yourself. You might find old churches, timber-framed shops, the ruins of an abbey, or the leftovers of medieval defences.

Landmarks

4 York Minster (Cathedral of St Peter in York), Deangate, YO1 7HH, ☏ +44 1904 557-200, [email protected]. Minster visits: M-Sa 9AM-4:30PM, Su 12:30PM-3PM; Museum: M-Sa 10AM-4:30PM, Su 1PM-3:15PM; Worship: 4 or more services daily 7:30AM-6PM. Seat of the Archbishop of York and the largest Gothic cathedral in northern Europe, York Minster dominates the skyline and dates back to the 8th century at least. The inside of the cathedral has beautiful stained glass and several interesting and peculiar features – look for the modern statues signalling "Christ is here" in semaphore and the dragon hanging from near the ceiling. The Undercroft Museum, beneath the Minster, displays centuries worth of archaeological findings in an interactive display. Then, climb the 275 steps to the top of the Minster's Central Tower to experience panoramic views from York's highest spot (ages 8+ only). The nightly Evensong worship has haunting acoustics, and is the only way of accessing the cathedral on Sunday late afternoons. On the south side of the Minster outside, don't miss the 1 statue of Constantine the Great, who was in 306 AD proclaimed emperor of Rome in York. At the far end of the plaza from this is a 2 Roman column which was unearthed beneath the Minster and reerected in 1971 to mark the 1,900th anniversary of the city's founding. Once you've seen all this, relax in the 3 Dean's Park – a simple expanse of grass and trees that affords views of the north side of the Minster. In spring or summer, you may catch a glimpse of nesting peregrine falcons. Adult £11.50, senior £10.50, student with ID £9, child under 17 free. Access to Minster, museum and guided tour included; £5 extra for tower. Worship, park and plaza free. York Pass accepted. (updated Mar 2021) 5 Clifford's Tower, Tower Street, YO1 9SA, ☏ +44 1904 646-940. Daily 10AM-6PM. In the 11th century, the Normans built a castle here to keep the Vikings at bay and subdue the local population following their conquest of England. The Vikings being Vikings, they promptly smashed it, so the Normans built bigger and be

Do

Attractions 1 GR8escape (escape rooms), 4a Colliergate, YO1 8BP, ☏ +44 7897 122 834 (mobile). Daily, pre-booked time slot. No guaranteed entry if you turn up without a reservation. Email via online contact form. Your team is put in one of three themed rooms (Atlantis, NYPD, Ministry of Wizards), and you have 60 minutes to solve a series of puzzles and codes in order to escape. Teams from 2 to 6 players, ages 8 years and up with accompanying adult. M-F £48-78, Sa Su £54-88. Prices are per team and vary according to the number of players. (updated Jul 2020) 2 Horse racing (The Knavesmire), Knavesmire Road, YO23 1EX (1 mile (1.6 km) south of the city centre. Bus: 197 shuttle operates between railway station and course on race days), ☏ +44 1904 620-911, [email protected]. Regular flat-racing events Apr-Oct, though the big fixture is Ebor Races in late August. York has been going to the races since Roman times, and the current site, in use since the early 18th century, is one of England's largest horse racing venues. Racegoers to the County Stand must adhere to a formal dresscode. Outside that, dressing up smart is not required, but does add to the sense of occasion. £5-300, depending on race and desired seats. (updated Mar 2021) 3 Jorvik DIG, St Saviour's Church, St Saviourgate, YO1 8NN, ☏ +44 1904 615-505, [email protected]. Daily, hours vary, last admission one hour before closing. Hands-on experience for children, who are briefed and then let loose on fake archaeology pits to turn up what they can. The 'synthetic soil' means germaphobe parents can relax and wonder why they've been charged an entry fee to sit and watch. After the dig, the kids can handle real finds discovered on actual York Archaeological Trust digs. Adult £7, child/concession £6.50. Combo ticket with Jorvik Centre: adult £15.50, concession £13, child £12. York Pass accepted. Booking recommended. (updated Mar 2021) 4 Rowntree Park, Terry Avenue, YO23 1JQ (Walk: follow the New Walk along the Ouse for about 1 mile (1.6 km) from town, then access via the Millennium Bridge. Bus: 11, 26), ☏ +44 1904 553-392, [email protected]. M-F 8AM-dusk, Sa Su 9AM-dusk. Named for the Rowntree company, which gifted the park to the city, and dedicated to company employees lost during the First World War, this is a 30-acre green flag oasis next to the Ouse. Facilities include tennis and basketball courts, a skate park, children's playground and café. Use the Millennium Bridge to cross over the river and grab something cold from the 1 Two Hoots "ice cream boat" (☏ +44 7903 813 701), which is moored

Buy

York comes highly recommended for its unique shops and boutiques. There's the usual range of high street stores, but York is also a great place for independent shops, especially if you're looking for gifts, high-end English and Italian fashion, books, or - it has to be said - tourist tat! Shops in York change from year to year, but the beautiful old-fashioned shop fronts, both medieval wood and Victorian red brick, haven't changed much since they were first built. The extensive pedestrianisation and interesting architecture make shopping and spending a pleasure for even the most miserly Yorkshireman.

1 Coney Street. Along with Parliament Street, this is the place in the city centre to head for the chain high street shops you can find all over the UK: Boots, H&M, TK Maxx, Zara et al. (updated Apr 2021) 3 Fossgate. Assorted specialist fashion shops selling bowler hats, smart gentlemen's outfits, and clothing and accessories specifically for tall women. 2 Walmgate, which it leads onto, has a number of homeware stores, a cycling shop and a modelling shop. (updated Apr 2021) 4 Gillygate. Several interesting shops to fill your home with mementos of your time in York, plus an independent bookshop, cheesemonger and retro gaming store. (updated Apr 2021) 6 High Petergate and Low Petergate. A hub of small fashion and jewellery stores with a mix of high-end brand names and independents. Those with a sweet tooth should check out the Fudge Kitchen. At the point where the two Petergates meet is 5 Stonegate, where you'll find several fashionable independent retailers and the original House of Trembling Madness, which stocks 900 bottled beers. (updated Apr 2021) 8 Parliament Street. One of very few wide and straight roads in the centre is this very attractive tree-lined boulevard mostly home to larger chain stores such as Disney, M&S, and most high street banks and building societies. The row continues northwest onto the much narrower 7 Davygate, which has high street fashion giants such as New Look, Pandora and Superdry. (updated Apr 2021) 9 Browns, 21 Davygate, YO1 8QT, ☏ +44 1904 611-166. M-Sa 9:30AM-6PM, Su 11AM-5PM. A good quality family-run department store that has been trading in York for over 100 years, stocks most of the global fashion brands, and features large beauty, furniture, and handbag departments. (updated Apr 2021) 10 York Farmers' Market, Parliament Street, YO1 8SG, ☏ +44 1904 550-099. First Friday of the month 9AM-4PM. An excellent place to buy and discuss food, drink and crafts with local producers. Meat, eggs, organic veg, cheese, pies, fudge, ho

Eat

Local specialities

As capital of Yorkshire, the county's cuisine is front and centre on many of York's menus. This is honest and rustic fare, in which generous portions are the norm, and large tasting platters are common. Yorkshire puddings, pies, local game, lamb and beef are all prized by restaurateurs, as are the local cheeses: wensleydale from the Dales, shepherd's purse blues from north of Thirsk and St Helen's Farm hard goat's cheese, produced in the Vale of York. The fish and crab in restaurants is often landed at East Coast ports such as Grimsby and Whitby, while the county's Norse connections are maintained by the serving of Yorkshire-made gravadlax. The city itself has two famous products: ham and chocolate. York ham has been produced within the city walls for hundreds of years, and far-fetched local legend states that the first hams were smoked with sawdust generated by the building of the Minster. Made with the meat of the large white pig, in taste the ham is mild, salty, smoky and often breaded, and in appearance a delicate pink. When served hot, it is traditionally accompanied by Madeira sauce. Disaster struck in the mid-2000s, when the last curer in town went out of business, and for 10 years there was no ham produced in York. Appleton's Butchers had a shop on Lendal from 2016, marking the return of York-cured hams, but closed down in 2020 during the COVID-19 pandemic. As a result, traditional York ham is no longer regularly produced in the city, though specialist butchers around Yorkshire do cure large white hams to a similar or identical recipe. While other northern towns busied themselves manufacturing useful but boring things like steel and cotton, 19th-century York took a sweeter path. Rowntree's created Aero bars, Fruit Pastilles, Kit-Kat, Smarties and Yorkie bars, among other internationally-known sweets. Although bought out by Nestlé in the 1980s with most products rebranded, the original factory has been maintained and expanded, and the Rowntree's brand lives on with Fruit Pastilles and newer products brought out since the acquisition such as Rowntree's Randoms. The other large York company, Terry's (of Chocolate Orange fame) has had a less rosy time: upon acquisition by Modelez, production was moved overseas. But alongside Nestlé's investment, a number of small independent chocolatiers have appeared in York: Choc Affair, Guppy's, Monk Bar and the York Cocoa House.

Eating out As diverse as York's restaurant scene is, there are some generalities that apply to many of the city's addresses. No matter the cuisine on offer, they

Drink & nightlife

Brewing and distilling The city of York is the site of three breweries, one combined with a vineyard, and one distillery. Beer, that is ale, has been brewed within the city walls for centuries, and the latest iteration of this tradition is York Brewery, which brews a range of three pale ales, the award-winning dark ruby ale Centurion's Ghost, and their signature golden ale Yorkshire Terrier. There is also a constantly changing selection of limited-edition creations, which adds a touch of FOMO-fuelled uniqueness to any beer-lover's visit to York. You can also visit the brewery; see the 'Do' section for details. The new kid on the block is Brew York, which eschews tradition by selling its brews by can. They specialise in U.S.-style craft beers, with hipsterish names such as Cereal Killa (a gluten-free citrusy pale ale), Goose Willis (gooseberry fool in beer form), and Tonkoko (the "9th best stout in the world!"). Periodically, they mix things up by discontinuing their entire range and releasing a new selection; there's even an IPA which changes its hops with each batch. You can drink at their achingly trendy "tap room" (see below), or else look out for the odd brew of theirs in pubs. Wine: Yorkshire has no fewer than six vineyards. The closest is Yorkshire Heart at Pool Lane, Nun Monkton YO26 8EL. They also have a brewery and a campsite, and offer tours. And then there's gin. Running with the established zeitgeist of stunningly unimaginative names, the York Gin Company launched its range in March 2018. It has already become a fixture in the local drinks culture, being stocked by dozens of shops, bars and hotels in and around the city, and is now making a splash in international industry awards. The varieties available include the classic London-style dry gin which was at its peak popularity in York in the 18th century; Old Tom, imbued with the white rose of Yorkshire; and the imperial-red juniper, apple and berry-infused Roman Fruit — all nod to the city's heritage. For Yorkshire whiskey you'll have to visit Filey on the coast. Cider is not made in York, and indeed has never been hugely popular up north, but if you like your apple tipple, then look out for Ampleforth Abbey Cider from nearby Thirsk.

Traditional pubs York has perhaps the most pubs per square mile of any city in the country; supposedly there's one for every day of the year.

1 The Ackhorne, St Martin's Lane, YO1 6LR (Tucked down a very narrow streetlet off Micklegate, past the church), ☏ +44 7977 190 297 (mobile), [email protected]. M-F noon-9PM, Sa Su 11AM-9PM. Cosy locals' haunt

Sleep

York has everything from humble hostels and cosy guesthouses, to some of England's grandest historic hotels. The usual chains are present in abundance, but there are also plenty of unique independents worth seeking out. Most accommodation listings here are in the heart of the city, within easy walking distance from attractions and services, but some are situated in quieter residential neighbourhoods or just on the fringes, though nowhere is very far apart in compact York. And while most people don't associate city breaks with camping opportunities, there are a surprising number of places to pitch a tent or park a campervan both in town and a little way outside.

Camping

Unusually, York has an inner city campsite:

1 York Rowntree Park (Caravan Club), Terry Avenue, YO23 1JQ (Bus: 11, 26), ☏ +44 1904 658-997. Check-in: 1PM. Camp in the city! Next to both Rowntree Park and the River Ouse, this is mostly a site for caravans and motorhomes, though there are pitches for tents too. Washroom, laundry room, electricity and gas hook-ups, Wi-Fi. Disability friendly. Barbecues and dogs allowed. Non-members welcome. Tariffs are seasonal: adults £8-£12 pppn, children £1-£3 pppn, extra charges for hardstanding with awning, tent pitch £6-£11 pn. CC members' discounts available. (updated Sep 2020) There are several campsites on the outskirts of York or in the near hinterland. The following three have been chosen for their locations just outside the city ring road and for their high ratings:

2 Nurseries Caravan Park, Askham Bryan Lane, YO23 3QY (4 mi (6.4 km) south-west of city centre, off A1237 ring road and 1½ miles (2.4 km) from A64. Bus: 37 - infrequent), ☏ +44 1904 797-427, [email protected]. Pitches for tourers and tents in a 7 acres (2.8 hectares) park. Heated washroom with hot showers, launderette, small shop for camping essentials. Dogs welcome on a lead. Tariffs are seasonal: 2 adults with car and power hookup £19-£21, £5/£3 per extra adult/child. (updated Sep 2019) 3 The Little Hide (Adult-only glamping), Willow House Caravan Park, Wigginton Road, YO32 2RH (On B1363, 3 mi (4.8 km) north of city, off A1237 ring road. Bus: 40 - hourly all day until 7PM), ☏ +44 7713 194 299 (mobile), [email protected]. Check-in: 1PM, check-out: 10AM. Two-person wooden 'pod' cabins, three-person yurt. All units are heated and lit and have beds, sofa, table and chairs. Bring your own kitchen appliances, plates and cutlery, and a gas stove if you intend to cook. BBQs provided. On-site washing and laundry, café. From £41 pn. Over 18s only, dogs welcome. (u

Go next

York is centrally located in Yorkshire, making it a great base for days out in any direction.

Vale of York

The Vale is a prosperous agricultural country sandwiched between the Pennines and the East Coast. Peppered with medieval monasteries, castles and stately homes, it also has a selection of attractive small towns:

Harrogate is the obvious next move from York, being an elegant Regency-era spa town 21 mi (34 km) west on the A59, or 33 min on the train, and home to the original Bettys Tea Rooms. Worth a stop on the way is Knaresborough (25 min on the train), to see the 12th century castle and visit a witch's lair. Ripon is a village-sized city that still packs in an impressive Early English cathedral, the haunting ruins of Fountains Abbey, and a host of justice-themed museums. It's 25 mi (40 km) north-west via the A59 and A1 (M), or bus 22 takes an absurd 1 hr 20 min. On the way, why not check out the Roman villa at Aldborough? Selby's 11th century abbey is worth the 14 mi (23 km) journey south on the A19, or 20-30 min on the train. Tadcaster is a brewery town noted for its Sam Smiths beers 10 mi (16 km) south-west on the A64, or 25 min on buses 840, 843, or 845. Thirsk is a small market town 23 mi (37 km) north on the A19, or 15-20 min on the train, with a museum dedicated to the vet James Herriot.

Further afield Hull is a major East Coast seaport in the midst of long-awaited urban renaissance, having successfully reinvented itself from a synonym for dull into the UK's 2017 City of Culture. It's 41 mi (66 km) south-east via the A1079 and A63, or 1 hr 5 min by train. Leeds is the biggest and most cosmopolitan city in Yorkshire, known for its palatial shopping arcades and fantastic for clubbing, drinking and dining. It's 25 mi (40 km) south-west on the A64, or 25 min by train. Rural Yorkshire's apotheosis, the Dales National Park, sits west of Harrogate. Drive as far as Bolton Abbey on the A59, then up the Wharfedale road into the heart of the park: the majestic Ribblehead Viaduct, Yorkshire's Three Peaks, cheese town Hawes, and bucolic Swaledale await. Access via public transport is easiest in summer, as there are some seasonal bus routes. Journeys at other times of the year will likely take you via Leeds, but you can equally get a bus up Nidderdale from Harrogate; see Yorkshire Dales#Get in for details. The heather expanses of the North York Moors National Park stretch north of Pickering (26 mi (42 km), best accessed by the A64, turning off near Malton). The National Trust property Nunnington Hall, English Heritage ruin Rievaulx Abbey and baroq