Xi'an

Understand

History Xi'an is more than 3,000 years old and was known as Chang'an (长安) in ancient times. For 1,000 years, the city was the capital for 13 dynasties, and a total of 73 emperors ruled here. Xi'an is the undisputed root of Chinese civilization having served as the capital city for the Zhou, Qin, Han, and Tang dynasties. With so much history within the ground the city lies upon, it is no wonder that there are so many historical ruins, museums and cultural relics to be found here. It was already influencing the world outside of the Great Wall of China (长城) as the eastern terminus of the Silk Road (丝绸之路). Here traders from far and wide brought goods and ideas for sale and took goods and ideas back with them to their native countries. In present-day Xi'an not much of its former glory remains within the city confines, due to the constant warfare and political changes that swept China particularly throughout the 20th century. Xi'an, historically known as Chang'an and Jingzhao, and abbreviated as "Hao" during the Republic of China period, is one of the cradles of Chinese civilization and the starting point of the Silk Road. Throughout history, approximately 13 (officially recognized) or 21 (according to local belief) dynasties established their capitals here, including the Zhou, Qin, Western Han, Western Jin, Former Zhao, Former Qin, Later Qin, Western Wei, Northern Zhou, Sui, and Tang dynasties. This period spanned from the 11th century BC to around the 10th century AD, lasting more than 1,200 years. Notable historical figures like the famous peasant uprising leaders Huang Chao and Li Zicheng also established their regimes here. Xi'an is one of the oldest cities in human history, with recorded history dating back to the Neolithic period. As early as 1 million years ago, the ancient humans of Lantian built settlements here. During the Yangshao culture period, around 7,000 years ago, the first signs of city walls appeared. In 2008, Neolithic city ruins from the late period, more than 6,000 years old, were uncovered at Yangguanzhai in Gaoling, Xi'an. This discovery was selected as China's top archaeological find that year, marking the earliest known city site in China and pushing the city's history back to the late Neolithic period. From the Western Zhou Dynasty, Xi'an became the capital of China, then known as "Zong Zhou" or Fenghao. Fenghao is also the first city in Chinese history to be recorded in historical texts. The ruins of the Qin capital Xianyang are located to the northwest of modern Xi'an, and the site of the Qin's Epang Palace is in the western sub

Getting there

By plane 1 Xi'an Xianyang International Airport (西安咸阳国际机场, XIY IATA), Dizhang Town, Weicheng District, Xianyang (咸阳市渭城区底张镇) (40 km northwest of the city center, in Xianyang), ☏ +86 29 96788, [email protected]. Flights are available to most major Chinese airports and International flights are available to many destinations including Bangkok, Hong Kong, Macau, Seoul and Tokyo. As Xi'an is in the heartland of China, it takes no more than 2 hours to fly to most major Chinese cities. Most people use taxis or the airport bus to reach town from the airport. A taxi will cost about ¥150 from the airport to the Bell Tower downtown. You will pay around ¥50-75 more if you take one of the climatized Japanese black taxis rather than the typical green taxis. At the airport, both types of taxis are waiting at the same spot to pick up passengers. Line 14 of the Xi’an Metro runs from the airport to Xi'an North station (more specifically, the metro station named "Beikezhan (Beiguangchang)" ), where there are connections to lines 2 and 4 as well as to the long-distance rail network. The airport bus leaves the airport from 08:00 until 01:00, a ticket costs ¥25 and takes about one hour; there are several lines but the most useful are Airport Bus No. 1 (no stop to the terminus in front of the Melody Hotel, at the beginning of West Street near the Bell Tower) and No. 2 (to the railway station). As long as there is an arriving flight, there will be a bus, so don't worry about arriving late at night or early morning. Buses will often depart as soon as they fill up. The airport bus route is the best way between city and the train station. Getting to the terracotta warriors from the airport is complicated but can be done. Immediately when you walk out of the airport you can take bus #2 (¥27) to the Xi'an train station. From there, take bus 306 to the terracotta warriors (see more details below). Alternatively, a taxi will cost approximately ¥85 plus toll charges of ¥15.

By train Most visitors arrive by high-speed train at 2 Xi'an North Railway Station (西安北站 Xī'ānběi Zhàn). , 15 km north of city center. The main services, on 200 km / hr "D-trains" or 300-km/h "G-trains", are to Zhengzhou (2–3 hours), Chengdu (4 hours), Wuhan (4–8 hours), Guangzhou (8 hours), Shenzhen (9 hours), Changsha, Shijiazhuang, Beijing (4–6 hours), Shanghai (7 hours) and Lanzhou (3 hours) - change at Lanzhou for the 12-hour train to Ürümqi. The North Railway Station is an enormous modern transport hub. To reach the city center take Metro line two (red), whose terminus (北客站 Beikezhan) is at the station.

Getting around

The old city is surrounded by a rectangular city wall. The Bell Tower (钟楼 Zhōnglóu) is in the dead center of the rectangle, and is considered the center of Xi'an. From here, the four main streets radiate along the four points of the compass.

North Street (北大街 Běidàjiē) East Street (东大街 Dōngdàjiē) South Street (南大街 Nándàjiē) West Street (西大街 Xīdàjiē) Do not get confused by different names in tourist guides, addresses and bus stops: Nandajie, Nanda Street, South Street, and South Avenue are all the same street. Locals often speak about Within the city walls (城里 chénglǐ, CHUNG-lee) and Outside the city walls (城外 chéngwài, CHUNG-why) when talking about locations. Outside the walls, the southern part is the most interesting - it offers shopping streets, bars and some nightlife.

Basically the inner Xi'an, the part inside the City Walls, is the old Xi'an, which is equivalent to the term "downtown" used to describe certain parts of a North American city. The buildings are mostly pretty short due to government policies. People who live inside the City Walls largely preserve a traditional way of life. For example, they are used to going to farmers' market for grocery, and also the provincial dialect is more prominent there. There is much more folklore to be found inside the City Walls than elsewhere in the city. Interestingly, there is a Roman Catholic church in the inner city, which was founded more than 300 years ago by the missionaries from the west. There has been several urbanization projects happening since the 2000s in the southern part of Xi'an, outside of the City Walls, notably Xi'an Hi-tech Industrial Development Zone. That's where you can find the new, and urban aspects of Xi'an. Large-scale shopping malls around that area are very popular among the new generations. Each shopping mall usually is a combination of restaurants, shopping areas, groceries, and entertainments. Also a considerable population from other parts of the city have relocated to this area for their children's education, since there are few prestigious schools in the area. As usual in China, subways are the easiest way to get around if they serve your destination. There are also plenty of buses traveling everywhere at short intervals (main lines run every 5–10 minutes). If you are not confident enough with orientation, or if you do not like packed buses, the cheap taxis (出租车 chūzūchē, literally translated as "rented car", which is pronounced as CHOO-TSOO-CHUH) are the best alternative, broadly available, except for during rush hours.

By Metro Xi'an has eleven Metro lines, with fu

See

Central Xi'an

Museums

1 Beilin (or Stele) Museum (西安碑林博物馆; Xī'ān Bēilín Bówùguǎn), 15 Sanxue St, Beilin District (碑林区三学街15号) (just inside the south city wall, near Wenchang Gate; about 800 m northeast of Yongningmen Metro Station on Line 2), ☏ +86 29 87210764. Mar-Nov: 08:00-18:30; Dec-Feb: 08:00-18:00, no entry in last 45 minutes. Remarkable collection of 4000 inscribed stone tablets, covering scripture, poetry, classic Chinese texts, triumphs of rulers, family history, and practical affairs such as instructions to rebuild a school. The 7th century Nestorian Stele (Showroom 2, first exhibit on the left) depicts the coming of Nestorian Christianity to China. Mar-Nov: ¥60, Dec-Feb: ¥50, or ¥100 (if combined with City Walls). (updated Sep 2018) 2 Shaanxi Art Museum (陕西美术馆), 587 East Avenue, Xincheng District (新城区东大街587号) (Zhonglou Metro Station (Line 2); about 400 meters east of the Bell Tower), ☏ +86 29 87217870 (Development Department), +86 29 87287716 (Exhibitions Department), +86 29 87270108 (Curator's Office), [email protected]. 09:30-17:00, closed on Mondays. Not to be confused with the Shaanxi Province Art Museum (listed below). The Shaanxi Art Museum is the smaller of the two museums and mainly displays paintings and calligraphy. Free. (updated Jan 2021) 3 Shaanxi History Museum (陕西历史博物馆; Shǎnxī Lìshǐbówùguǎn), 91 Xiaozhai East Road, Yanta District (雁塔区小寨东路91号) (Xiaozhai subway stop (Lines 2 & 3); 800 m northwest of Big Wild Goose Pagoda), ☏ +86 29 85253806. Nov 15-Mar 14: 09:00-17:30; Mar 15-Nov 14: 08:30-18:00, no tickets issued in last 90 minutes, :closed on Mondays. This museum houses a collection of local artefacts that span the province's history from the Neolithic period through the Qing dynasty. In particular, it contains fabulously well preserved pottery from the nearby Banpo neolithic village (also worth a visit) and many excellent Shang Dynasty bronzes. Although some guidebooks call it "one of the best museums in China", its old fashioned pots-and-arrowheads-behind-glass format may appeal mainly to enthusiasts. The most eye-catching articles are those from the Tang Dynasty that were used by the royal family. All visitors are required to make a booking on the museum's official WeChat account before visiting (see website for QR code). Upon arrival at the museum, you will need to pick up your pre-booked tickets from the counters on the east side of the South Entrance. The specific counter you will need to go to will depend on what kind of tickets you have booked. Go to Counters 1 or 2 for tickets to the 'Treasures of the Great Tang Dynast

Do

Stroll round the Drum and Bell Tower area after dark, when they're brilliantly illuminated. 1 Hui Muslim Quarter (Huimin Street (回民街 Huímínjiē)) (northwest of the Bell Tower). Walk through the Muslim quarter sampling food and buying souvenirs. The Hui Muslim Quarter (回民街 Huí mín jiē, hwei-min-jyeh) is a series of small alleys located in a high-density Hui community (very much like Chinatown in North America) inside the city walls, where the residences open up small restaurants and food shops like street food. Some of these restaurants are among the most famous ones in the city, regarded as the "true Xi'an cuisine" by the locals. However, visitors from outside the city may dislike the environment while the locals may not, because garbage can be seen almost everywhere on the street. Price is high here (some time more doubled) without matching the quality. It is recommended to try only the Huimin food here while keeping other Xi'an delicacies elsewhere in the city. (updated Aug 2021)

Walk the City Walls. Walk along the city walls and see the South Gate (南门 Nánmén, literally translated as "The Southern Gate"), which is illuminated at night. The area outside of the "Gate" is full of big shopping malls that are popular among the locals, marked with the iconic glass-curtain walled buildings. The area is one of the busiest places of interests in the city. ¥54. Students ¥27. (updated Apr 2026) Bike the City Walls. Bicycling around the city walls will take about 2 hours leisurely and just over an hour if you only stop a little. Bicycles can be rented on each of the four main gates for 180 minutes, ¥45 per person (=¥90 for a tandem), and it may to be returned to any of the other stations (however, be sure to verify this before starting your ride or if they are still open as the other gates close at ~20:00). Remember to take your passport with you as a deposit for the bike that you rent, or ¥200. Make sure that you keep the deposit ticket, as the bike vendor will not give you the deposit back without it! Also, the bikes are generally relatively new and well maintained, but check the tire pressure and whether the brakes work before choosing yours. It's good to enjoy the scenery while biking the City Walls, but the biking experience may not be very pleasant. Because the City Wall's top-floor is very bumpy in nature, most people give up in midway because they can't bear the uncomfortable riding experience. Also choose a day when the weather is friendly, usually in Spring or in Fall. (updated Aug 2021)

Buy

Souvenirs Xi'an souvenirs include small copies of terracotta warriors, wood-carved Buddhas and dragons, Tang Tricolored Pottery, hand made paper cut (by many regarded as the most important arts form in Xi'an), all other kind of folk art and also fake western products.

Terracotta Warriors (秦始皇兵马俑). If you are visiting the Terracotta Warriors, be prepared to meet some of the most hardcore hawkers you are likely to meet anywhere. If you keep quiet, they will usually bargain themselves down in front of you in desperate pleas for your money. A box of 15-cm-high Terracotta Warriors cost ¥5-10 (if you're lucky) or ¥15-25 (more likely) even if they offer it to you for ¥45. Wood-carved Buddhas and Dragons for about the same. They are fortunately kept at a distance from the actual site. Many travelers report enjoying this experience. It is definitely not a reason to avoid seeing the Terracotta Warriors. The exit from the pit areas to the parking lot leads through long avenues lined with souvenir stalls and shops. The barkers will try to get your business, but are not as aggressive as the touts at the entrance or immediate exits. 1 Huimin Street (回民街 Huímínjiē) (Muslim Quarter) (Behind the Drum Tower in the Muslim Quarter around the Great Mosque). The best place to buy souvenirs in the city center is the bazaar area. The seller usually offers you a very high price, and even if you bring them down by 50%, they will still make a big profit. This is also a good place to buy folk art, specifically folk style block prints in a single shop which go for about ¥50 if you can stand bargaining when the older gentleman artist himself is standing right there. This area is also full of fake name-brand products like watches, bags, clothes. Bargain hard. Shop owners will typically sell such fake branded products to expatriates at three times the price they offer to Chinese people. For instance, a Louis Vuitton wallet going at ¥80 will be touted to Westerners at ¥200 or more. If your haggling skills are exceptional, you can bring down the price to a mere ¥30. (updated Mar 2017) Calligraphy Street (书院门步行街) (near South Gate inside the city wall towards the east, walking down South Street on the left side, continue to where the road splits in front of South Gate and turn left to find the entrance gate next to a small pagoda, midway do a slight dog leg to the right, at the far end is the Forest of Steles). This is another souvenir shopping area. Less hectic than the Muslim Quarter. Tang Tricolored Pottery Factory (唐朝三色陶器厂). Tang Tricolored Pottery is a style that was lost and

Eat

Xi'an used to have only a few restaurants known by the locals to serve delicious food. Now the restaurants are everywhere, especially ones like KFC and McDonald. The younger generations don't seem to appreciate the traditional cuisines and rather choose to eat fast food. Therefore, some of good old restaurants are forced to close down, being taken over by the newer ones. Xi'an specialties include:

Yángròu Pàomó (羊肉泡馍) is one of the signature dishes of the area, it consists of a piece of thick, chewy bread and a kettle of lamb soup. The diner shreds the bread with his hands and places the shreds in a bowl, the soup is then poured over the shreds (along with meat, maybe some noodles or scallion, etc.) The trick is to shred the bread into pieces that are "as small as possible", like the size of your pinky fingernail. Most first-timers will shred their bread in pieces that are too large. In some restaurants, they have already shredded the bread for you. It is normally also served with pickled garlic and chili. If you don't like lamb, some restaurants also offer a beef version. The best, and the most authentically made of this dish can be found in the Hui Muslim Quarter. Biáng biáng miàn (𰻝𰻝面) is a local provincial specialty noodle dish that is extremely good. The wide noodles are spiced, have a broth, and include toppings such as eggs, tomatoes, beef, etc. The character for "biang" is very complex (58 strokes) and distinctive. Although this kind of noodles has created a brand of the same name (trademarked), under which several such restaurants are run across the whole city, not every one serves the noodles that taste like the original. It's advised to go to the one restaurant that has lasted for the longest time, which is located in Fen Alley, within the City Walls. It is known by the locals as the most "authentic" (正宗) Biáng biáng miàn. Ròu jiā mó (肉夹馍) is the closest thing to a hamburger. This is a local tradition and should be very easy to locate. Sandwich-like, with pork, beef or lamb, this is a must-try item for anyone who is in this area. Still, as a dish that is derived from Hui people's cuisine, the best Ròu jiā mó restaurant is to be found usually within the City Walls, specifically in the Hui Muslim Quarters. Not every Ròu jiā mó restaurant in the city serves the food just like the original. A recommendation of such an "authentic" restaurant would be Yú Lǎo Dà (literally translated as "Mr.Yu's") located in the Wuxing Street, just across the Roman Catholic church. It mostly serves food for breakfast, so get in there in the morning just in case i

Drink & nightlife

Night clubs in Xi'an are not abundant. All clubs play the same music, a mix of Chinese disco and some pop music. Most people go out between 22:00 and 01:00, but clubs are generally open until 04:00. Be mentally prepared to be aggressively approached by club operators desperate for patrons. In summer time, the area around South Gate (南门) is beautiful. East of it are three nice bars with terraces and gardens. Along the short Nandajie (南大街) are the most clubs (you can also eat on the street as there are restaurants open past midnight).

MIX (Big light ad). Rather nice places to sit and drink. Palando. Rather nice place to sit and drink. Night Cat. Dance floor, some foreigners and OK DJs. Kulala. Dance floor. Other options include:

De Fu Lou Cafe & Bar (De Fu Lou Paulaner Bar), De Fu Xiang Street. In Bar Street (De Fu Xiang), one of the first bars ever to open in Xi'an and a favorite hangout for locals. Live football on the big screen and live music every night. Havana Bar, Renmin Square (in Sofitel Hotel). Has a Colombian band and makes good cocktails. It's not your average Buena Vista Social Club, though: they play loud music in between band performances and the band plays a wide array of pop and salsa. This location is more of a club than an actual Latin bar. Park Qin (basement Qin bar), A-2 Shuncheng West Alley (inside the South City Gate), Beilin District, Xi'an (go to South Gate; walk along inside wall about 20 m; go into hostel and down stairs into basement). An underground basement bar (underneath Xi'an Shuyuan International Youth [Party] Hostel [see listing below]). Always packed, with live entertainment and a lot of laowai. Go early to get a table. Entrance not marked. Press blue-lit buzzer beside door to get in. Can be a really wild party. (updated Jan 2017)

Sleep

As with most Chinese cities, several cheap run down hotels can be found near the train station. There are a few decent ones inside the city walls, on a road called Jie Fang Lu, going directly south from the train station. Bargaining is possible, especially if you are staying for more than one night. Expect to pay under ¥100 for a single room as getting a room for as low as ¥30 is possible.

Budget There are at least six international youth hostels in the center of the city, and they are easy to find. Booking on the Internet will usually save you money, prices start around ¥15.

3e Hotels International, 54 Nandajie (between the South Gate and the Bell Tower, next door to a KFC on the W side of the street). Single room with free broadband internet is ¥154. Right outside the door is a coffee shop. Bob's Guesthouse, 85 Huan Cheng Bei Lu Rd (just outside the city walls, a short walk from the train station). Doubles with en-suite bathroom for ¥100; dorms from ¥25 (summer 2006). Ludao Binguan, 80 Xi Ba Lu (西八路), ☏ +86 29 87420308, fax: +86 29 82101222. A nicer-than-average hotel and hostel. Dorm rooms are between ¥25-50, depending on the season. Reasonably nice hotel room for around ¥75. The manager Jim Beam is friendly. Hq Guesthouse in Xi'an, Hong Cheng Guoji Gong Yu, Xihuamen Shizi, 西安市, 陕西省, 710003, ☏ +86 13149250037. Small but cozy setup in a brand new apartment complex by the Muslim Quarter in Xi'an. Free pickup, free internet. 1-bedroom apartments from ¥300. Xi'an Shuyuan International Youth Hostel, Xi Nanmen, ☏ +86 29 87287720, fax: +86 29 87287721. Excellent location next to the South Gate. 8 people dorm from ¥35/night. There is an excellent pub under the hostel, and a very nice coffee house. Perfect place to hang out, surf internet, a 10-minute walk from Drum Tower and the Muslim snack street! Updated: 09.02.2012 Han Tang Inn Youth Hostel, 7 South Long Alley, ☏ +86 29 87231126, +86 29 87287772. The hostel is in a 4-floor building down an alley near the Bell Tower. Rates range from ¥30-160; doubles with en suite bathroom costs ¥120/night (as of June 2010; booked on hostelworld.com). The hostel includes a bar on the 4th floor with TV, pool table, movies and 3 guitars. Free computer use for internet in the lobby. The Wi-Fi in the rest of the building is iffy but you can ask for an Ethernet cable. The staff run lots of events (e.g. a dumpling party) each wee. Have a partner, Shuyuan Hostel, near the South Gate. duolamaer gallery international youth hostel, 7 Shuncheng Avenue, Zhuque Gate (10 m from South Gate), ☏ +86 15129032007. Duolam

Go next

Xianyang was historically part of Xi’an and is closely integrated with Xi’an due to its close geographical proximity. You can reach Xianyang’s urban area just by taking a metro train. Lines 1 and 14 of the Xi’an Metro both connect Xi’an to Xianyang.

Chen Lu: 3 hours' drive north of Xi'an, this community of artisans has been producing pottery since the Tang dynasty. You need private transport, and the road is hazardous in winter. Take in the Yaozhouyao Kiln Museum, 90 km north of Xi'an on the old road to Chenlu Town. There's fine Yaozhou porcelain from the Song Dynasty (960-1279 AD), and the site of the original kiln. Hu Kou Waterfall (壶口瀑布 Húkǒu Pùbù), 150 km north of Xi'an, can be combined with a trip to Huang Di Mausoleum. You need your own transport as the only bus of the day back to Xi'an departs around 10:00. Huashan National Park (华山 Huàshān) 120 km east of Xi'an, takes only 35 min by high-speed train, or 90 min by conventional train or bus. Huashan is a 2160-m mountain with spectacular views; either hike up the 6 km trail (4–6 hours) or take the 10 minute cable car for ¥70 (though the cable car often has lines lasting 2 hours.) Try to catch sunrise on the East peak, but it's cold up there. Accommodation is available but pricey. Louguan (楼观), 60 km southwest of Xi'an and two hours by bus. You can spend a couple of days to for seeing Louguantai National Park, a Daoist temple complex, or Daqin Pagoda (大秦塔 Dà Qín Tǎ) 2 km west from Louguantai, a seven-story octagonal tower, probably Buddhist and from the 11th century. But "Daqin" means Roman or Middle Eastern in early Chinese, and some claim the tower was built in 640 AD by Nestorians, Assyrian Christians who reached China via Persia and the Silk Road. It's far-fetched but has done wonders for the tourist trade. Lanzhou - capital city of Gansu province.