Warsaw

Understand

A city of 1.8 million inhabitants (2021), it sits on the Vistula River (Polish: Wisła) in the middle of the country. Warsaw's history of rapid development after many wars that ravaged and destroyed the city has earned it a reputation as a "phoenix city", able to recreate itself from the ruins and regain its erstwhile glory every time. During the Second World War, it suffered a fate similar to Rotterdam and Dresden in that it was almost completely razed, although in the case of Warsaw it was a much more tragic story of successive destruction and defeat. Due to the great efforts of its surviving inhabitants and, indeed the entire nation, it was rebuilt from a field of rubble, with its historic core recreated, but much of its heritage was lost. Warsaw also had one of the largest Jewish populations in Europe, which for the most part perished during the war, making Warsaw an important place of Holocaust remembrance.

History

Before becoming the capital There are records of human settlements and economic activity in the area of what is now Warsaw from the 9th century onwards, but it wasn't until the 13th century that Warsaw was founded by the Dukes of Mazovia. While developing as an administrative and economic centre, it played second fiddle to Płock within Mazovia until the 15th century, and was by no means a match for Poland's former capital, Kraków. It gained growing importance due to its economic might and strategically important central location in Poland, cemented when the Polish Sejm (parliament of nobles) relocated there permanently in the 16th century, and it became the site of royal elections.

As capital city of Poland

In 1596, it became the de facto capital of the country when King Sigismund III Vasa decided to permanently relocate to what is now the Royal Castle in Warsaw. The city started to develop rapidly beyond the what is now the Old and New Town, as noblemen started moving in and building mansions and palaces around town. In the 17th century, Praga, on the right-hand side of the river Vistula, was incorporated as a separate town (and did not become a part of Warsaw until the 19th century). While ravaged by wars and natural disasters along with many other European cities in this period, Warsaw continued to grow and modernize, with baroque residences, including Wilanów, being built in the 17th century, and the Saxon kings initiating the first large-scale urban planning projects in the early 1700s. The last king of independent Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, further modernized the city following the ideals of the Enlightenment in

Getting there

By plane

Warsaw has two airports: Chopin (WAW IATA) is the main one 8 km south, while Modlin (WMI IATA) 40 km north is only used by low-cost carriers.

Warsaw Chopin Airport 1 Chopin Airport (Lotnisko Chopina w Warszawie, WAW IATA) was upgraded in 2015 and now has a single Terminal A; it's easy to navigate and has the usual facilities including car hire. It's 8 km south of city centre in Okęcie, Włochy district. It has both budget and full-service flights to most major European cities. Intercontinental destinations are New York JFK and Newark, Chicago O'Hare, Toronto, Seoul, Beijing, Tel Aviv and the Gulf states. Domestic flights are reducing as the trains speed up, but include Poznań, Kraków, Katowice, Rzeszów, Gdańsk and Wrocław.

Warsaw Modlin International Airport

2 Modlin Airport (WMI IATA). In Nowy Dwór Mazowiecki, 40 km north of Warsaw, the airport fields flights from low-cost carriers like Ryanair, Wizz Air and Air Arabia. The airport is modern and simple but has the basics. (updated Nov 2021)

To and from Modlin Airport By train: Modlin town railway station is 4.5 km east of the airport. You can take a yellow shuttle bus between the airport and Modlin station, then a regional train between Modlin and Warsaw. You can get a combined airport ticket (Bilet Lotniskowy) for 22.40 zł online, which also lets you use public transport in Warsaw's Zone 1 for 75 min. The easier option may be to buy the ticket for the same price from the Jakdojade app. In case you are boarding from Warszawa Gdańska, keep in mind that as of April 2026 the station is undergoing maintenance, so the train may stop at a different platform than expected. Total travel time is up to 90 min. By bus: Contibus runs from the airport to the city centre, tickets can be bought at arrivals or on the bus with cash or card for 40 zł. They also run to the airport, tickets can be bought on board or online. If buying online you must separately download the ticket from their website once payment clears. Total travel time is around 60 min. Flixbus also runs via the airport to other cities such as Gdańsk.

By train

Intercity trains are run by PKP. These nominally require reservations, but outside busy times you can walk up and get a ticket for immediate travel. From Berlin trains run every two hours, taking 6 hr via Frankfurt (Oder), Rzepin, Świebodzin, Zbąszynek, Poznań, Konin and Kutno. From Poznań trains take around 2 hr 30 min. From Kraków trains run non-stop every two hours, taking under 3 hr. From Ukraine via Lviv and Przemyśl you usually change at Kraków, but the nightly sleep

Getting around

Public transport

The public transport system in Warsaw is generally well-developed, with some 200 bus routes and 30 tram lines. The route descriptions on the tram stops are easy to follow (although bus stop notices are more complex), but it can last longer, however, to travel between destinations far from the city center. Warsaw has two underground metro lines, one going from south to north on the left bank, and the other from the east to the west. There are also some regional urban rail services (Polish: Szybka Kolej Miejska or SKM), although they depart at most every 30 minutes only. You can consult schemas on operator site for detailed information. All of the abovementioned means of public transit share a single fare and ticketing system, operated by ZTM, a unit within the City of Warsaw responsible for the organization of all public transit. You can buy paper tickets from machines at some stops, or on board some trams. These must be validated on board. Tickets are available for single journeys and also for 24 and 72 hours. You can also buy tickets using the jakdojade.pl app (iOS, Android, Huawei apps). Mobile tickets can be validated by scanning a QR code on board. Jakdojade can help you plan the most convenient trip with the public transit between two points in the city. Google Maps can also do that, however they update bus schedules less often. There is also Easyway journey planner.

Metro Warsaw's metro system opened in 1995 and is one of the newest underground railway systems in Europe. Operated by Metro Warszawskie sp. z o.o. it runs daily from early morning until midnight at 3-10 minute intervals. On Friday and Saturday, the Metro runs until 03:00. Trains and stations are clean and neat. The system consists of two lines; the M1 going from Młociny to Kabaty, and the M2 going from Bemowo to Bródno. The subway does not go to many tourist destinations; however, several stations will take you in a general vicinity of some attractions. The M2 is being extended westwards, new stations are to be opened in 2026.

Szybka Kolej Miejska

Szybka Kolej Miejska (SKM) runs on the railway tracks shared with other regional and long-distance trains. SKM trains can be distinguished by their white and ecru livery. SKM reaches many suburban locations outside of the boundaries of Warsaw, as well as the Chopin Airport. SKM stations are quite far from each other, so the trains are best used to traverse longer distances or travel to remote locations within the Warsaw metropolis.

As of 2023 there are four SKM lines and variants of them, most (S1 and S2) stopping

See

This is the city of Frederic Chopin, Maria Skłodowska-Curie, Władysław Szpilman and Pola Negri. Warsaw Old Town is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Take a walk and explore the streets and squares which have been painstakingly rebuilt after the last war. Check out the tumultuous history of the metropolis on both sides of the Vistula river. Explore special places and associated with the uprisings, especially one, which took place in the Ghetto and second, which happened in 1944. Book a guided city walk across the city and discover how it has changed since the fall of communism. Most of the major sightseeing attractions are concentrated in Śródmieście, with some more in surrounding districts, the exception park and palace in Wilanów. Check the attractions of the Vistula river banks. That said, every district has something to offer if you have the time and want to research more, so do refer to district articles for details. That said, most tourists will probably:

Visit the Old and New Town, the (recreated) oldest part of the city of Warsaw with the Royal Castle From there, stroll down Krakowskie Przedmieście and Nowy Świat streets (parts of the "Royal Route") Travel along the Royal Route (Trakt Królewski) linking the Royal Castle to the Royal Palace in Wilanów (Pałac Królewski w Wilanowie), some 10 kilometers farther See Łazienki Park with the Chopin Monument (and attend one of the free open-air concerts in the summertime) Take the elevator to the top of Palace of Culture and Science for a panoramic view of the city, or at least take a photo of this modern-day symbol of Warsaw Visit the most important museums – Warsaw Uprising Museum, National Museum and the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews Relax on the Vistula Boulevards (Bulwary Wiślane), spreading out over 6 km (3.7 mi) of the Vistula banks

Do

Explore Go on a tour of Warsaw – the Old Town and surrounding districts are sufficiently compact to allow a number of excellent walking tours through its history-filled streets. You'll see amazing things you would otherwise miss. Details are usually available from the reception desks of hostels and hotels.

Concerts and performances Warsaw is home to several professional musical and play companies. Being the capital city means the Polish National Opera and the Warsaw Philharmonic (also, National Philharmonic) call Warsaw home. There are a number of other companies, including play companies and theaters that will likely be of interest to travellers. The Presto Music Agency organises Chopin concerts at several venues across the city. Headline music acts perform at the Bemowo airport in the Bemowo district and at the Stadion Narodowy (National Stadium) in the Praga Południe district of Warsaw. Smaller acts are hosted at clubs and concert halls around the city, but primarily in the center of Warsaw.

Festivals The Cross-Culture Warsaw Festival (Festiwal Skrzyżowanie Kultur). World music festival. Concerts and music workshops, documentary screenings, exhibitions. Jewish Culture Festival – The Singer's Warsaw (Festiwal Kultury Żydowskiej – Warszawa Singera), [email protected]. August. (updated Oct 2024) Warsaw Film Festival (Warszawski Festiwal Filmowy). October. Planete+ Doc Film Festival. Documentary films. May. Burn Selector Festival. Electronic & alternative music festival. September. 250 zł for two-day pass. Orange Warsaw Festival. Big pop music festival on the Horse Racetrack Służewiec. May. 300 – 1000 zł for two-day pass. Warsaw Summer Jazz Days. July. Warsaw Autumn (Warszawska Jesień). International festival of contemporary music. September. Grand Final of The Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity (Finał Wielkiej Orkiestry Świątecznej Pomocy). Annual charity event with thousands of fundraisers on the streets, free concerts in the city centre (usually Defilad Square or Bankowy Square), colourful TV studio with access from the street, mass street runs and number of local events and activities in the districts. Some attractions might be paid by donation to the collection box. Raised money are spent on high-quality medical equipment for the children hospitals in Poland. Usually on 2nd Sunday of January. Long Night of Museums (Noc Muzeów). A great opportunity to wander around with your date or friends and grab an ice cream cone from one of the many cafes that stay open late. Most museums and galleries will stay open past midnight.

Buy

ATMs (Polish: bankomat) are plentiful around Warsaw. Visa, MasterCard, Visa Electron, and Maestro are widely accepted at most establishments. AmEx and Diners' Club are not as commonly accepted. Indoor shopping malls (Polish: centrum handlowe pl. centra ~, often abbreviated CH) are also plentiful in Warsaw. Usually open 08:00—22:00, most malls will have a food court, restaurants, cinema, and some may have a sports hall with billiards tables or a bowling alley. Auchan and Carrefour are the largest supermarkets in Europe, and they are also present in Poland, offering just about everything, including groceries, at low prices. The biggest supermarket chain is Biedronka. Lidl can be found too and offers great quality at unbeatable prices. In 2019 a new law was passed that does not allow most of the shops to open on Sundays. If you find yourself in need of shopping on Sunday, you have to count on some smaller shops where the owners work for themselves.

Eat

Warsaw is not globally renowned for its culinary scene, but it lacks nothing compared to other European capitals with regard to it. There is a wide choice of eateries from the most basic and cheapest to very sophisticated, and many different types of food are available throughout the city. Finding a unique dining experience is feasible daily.

For those on a budget, there are many kebab shops sprinkled around Warsaw, especially in Śródmieście, which offer decent food and portions for the fair price of 7-13 zł a kebab. Other cheap alternatives are milk bars, which are discussed later in the section, and Vietnamese restaurants.

Haute cuisine If you are looking for a premium dining experience, your best chances are in Śródmieście, but away from the Royal Route. In Praga, head for Saska Kępa, and you will also find a fair share of upscale restaurants in Wilanów. New and innovative places crop up in the most unexpected locations, so do acquaint yourself with the district guides for the latest tips. Warsaw is home to both Polish restaurants that hold Michelin stars:

Atelier Amaro, ul. Agrykola 1 (entrance from plac Na Rozdrożu square), ☏ +48 (22) 628 57 47, +48 607 970 000, [email protected]. Author's cuisine restaurant of chef Wojciech Modest Amaro. The restaurant does not offer à la carte dishes, in fact it doesn't have a fixed menu at all. Smart casual dress code is expected. Menus from 260 zł. (updated Apr 2016) Senses, ul. Bielańska 12, ☏ +48 (22) 331 96 97, [email protected]. A "private dining" restaurant, author's cuisine of chef Andrea Camastra. Reservation required. From 170 zł. (updated Apr 2016)

Food fairs The new trend in Warsaw are food fairs, where fresh foodstuffs can be bought directly from producers, both for further processing and preparation at home and as ready dishes for consumption on site. Usually, some space for communal meals is provided. This can be a very nice option for breakfast or lunch. Some of the options are:

Targ Śniadaniowy (Breakfast fair), al. Wojska Polskiego 1; Skwer Grupy AK Granat and other places. Sa 09:00—16:00. Organised every weekend in various parts of town, usually (updated May 2016)

Fast food Tourists will be happy to know there's no shortage of fast food in Warsaw. The city is rife with McDonald's and Subway outlets, there are also many KFCs and Pizza Huts, and a growing number of Burger King restaurants (the latter mostly in shopping centres). For a quick bite, chain cafés that are around every corner in the city centre, the shopping centres and many office buildings will

Drink & nightlife

Old Town and areas like pl. Trzech Krzyży, ul. Nowy Świat, ul. Chmielna, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście in Śródmieście are saturated with cafés. Coffee typically costs about 10-15 zł. Beer can cost 5-15 zł for half a liter (the supermarket price being 2.50-3 zł). Drink prices in clubs can go up to 50 zł. Drinking alcoholic beverages in public places is prohibited, but there are several places chosen by the local government where it can be possible.

Clubs Clubs are plentiful in Warsaw and are a very popular way to spend nearly every night out. The most popular nice and chic clubs are on ul. Mazowiecka in Śródmieście. You will be denied entrance if you wear sport shoes, no matter how expensive they are. Inconspicuous black shoes will normally do the trick. Student clubs are popular and usually moderately priced, but can be hit or miss. Normally, the centrally located Hybrydy is a good option for night out. Other student clubs, like Stodoła or Remont in Śródmieście, and Park in Mokotów, are less predictable and quality isn't necessarily a concern for these clubs' patrons. If the point is to get drunk, then these are the place to go for a cheap drink. Beware of certain bouncers (for example in Park), they are not the talkative kind if they suspect you of something. In addition, there are clubs in Wola and Mokotów as well as several popular and down-to-earth clubs in the Praga districts.

Tea and coffee Throw stereotypes out the door. For Poles, one of the most important staples to quench their thirst is not wódka or beer, but rather tea and coffee. As such, you're likely come across dozens and dozens of cafés. Chain-wise, Coffee Heaven and W Biegu Cafe are the big players. Starbucks is also in Warsaw. The real treat of Warsaw, however, are small cafés that are littered about Warsaw. For the most part, a good cup of tea or coffee can be had for 5-10 zł a cup. A small tea kettle is between 20-30 zł.

Sleep

There are plenty of accommodation options in Warsaw at all budget levels. The most accommodation options are in Śródmieście, Wola, and Mokotów. There are also many business travel hotels in Włochy, near the airport. Warsaw has an oversupply of high-standard hotel rooms, as many luxury hotels were built in Warsaw after 1989. Almost every global upscale chain has at least one property, a few hundred rooms each. Therefore, you can easily snatch room at a modern four- or five-star hotel in the €50-70 range. Warsaw still sees more business than leisure travel, so your best bet to get a great rate are weekend stays. Look for offers and special rates in booking sites and hotel web pages. If you are on a budget, do not assume that hostels are your only option. Booking in advance at 3/4 star hotels can yield prices only slightly higher than backpacker hostels, for far greater comfort. Do your research in any case before booking to make sure you do not miss out on a great offer. Breakfast is not included in the room price in most hotels in Poland. Expect steep charges for breakfast, especially if you book a premium hotel at a low price. If you are staying in the city centre, you might find many other breakfast options around your hotel though. There are campgrounds in Włochy, Wawer, Wola, Ochota and Mokotów.

Go next

Kampinos Forest (approximately 15 km (9.3 mi), take the 210 bus from Młociny underground station) – A wild and beautiful primeval forest, often called the green lungs of Warsaw, and an ideal choice for a day off from the noise of the city Konstancin-Jeziorna (approximately 20 km (12 mi), take the 700 bus) – A spa town with a spacious park. Famous for its clean air and high housing prices. Kraków (approximately 300 km (190 mi), in just under 3 hours by hourly IC/Ex trains) – The former capital of Poland, this was the European City of Culture in 2000. Lublin (approximately 200 km (120 mi)) – A medieval city with a well preserved old town, it is now the largest city and main tourist attraction in eastern Poland. Kazimierz Dolny (approximately 150 km (93 mi), less than two hours by TLK train to Puławy, then half an hour by bus) – A Renaissance town with a picturesque marketplace, it is a hub for painters and Boheme. Żelazowa Wola (approximately 50 km (31 mi)) – The birthplace of Frédéric Chopin. Brest, 200 km (120 mi) away in Belarus, on the border with Poland and rich with history from both the Soviet times and before. The Brest Hero Fortress is perhaps the most impressive Soviet monument ever built, and there's the train museum, and its incredible collection of Soviet-time locomotives, as well. You can go there by train (one train a day, that 4-5 hrs). Same visa regulations as rest of Belarus; the new visa-free regulations for citizens of 80 countries since 2017 is not eligible when coming/leaving by train.