Varna

Understand

Geography and orientation Varna is roughly in the middle of the northern Bulgarian coast, at the bottom of the 8 km (5.0 mi) wide Gulf of Varna. An artificial shipping channel splits the gulf's coastline in two and connects the sea to the long and narrow Varna-Beloslav lake, which in turn is fed by the small Provadiyska River. The city of Varna lies on the northern side of the gulf, on a stretch of relatively flat land under the steeper slopes of the southern edges of a low limestone plateau. The tall Asparuh(ov) Bridge connects Varna to the outlying neighborhoods on the southern side, Asparuhovo and Galata. The only other way to cross the lake is the free ferry at Beloslav, 16 km (9.9 mi) west of the city centre. The oldest parts of Varna, including the so-called Greek Quarter, spread fan-like from the north-east to the north-west from the point of the modern port. Further away is a layer of 19th and early 20th century expansions, including the main pedestrian street and the Cathedral. After them follow in another wide arc the concrete panel block neighborhoods of the Communist era. The sea resorts start immediately north-east of the city, almost seamlessly melding with it in a built-up strip stretching along the coast. These are Sts. Constantine and Helena (in the Communist era: Druzhba, "friendship"), Chayka ("seagull"), and Golden Sands (Zlatni Pyasatsi). Further along the coast to the north are the village of Kranevo, the Albena resort, and the town of Balchik. South of the Gulf of Varna, notable along the coast are the resort and protected area around the mouth of the Kamchia river, as well as the resorts at Shkorpilovtsi and Byala.

History Due to its favorable natural conditions, including hot springs and a harbor, the area has been inhabited since pre-history. The so-called Varna culture left behind graves with some of the oldest gold artifact in the world (4600 BC - 4200 BC). In classical Antiquity, the seafaring Greeks established here the colony of Odessos, and like many Greek settlements, it later became a part of the Roman Empire. In 1443-1444, not long after medieval Bulgaria's fall to the Ottoman Empire, the city saw the final battle of the failed Varna Crusade, an attempt to liberate the Balkans from Ottoman rule by combined Polish, Hungarian and Burgundian forces. The crusaders lost the decisive battle; the young Polish king Władysław III Jagiełło was killed, earning him the epithet "of Varna" (Varnenchik in Bulgarian). Under Ottoman rule, Varna continued to develop as an important economic and military center. In the 18th and 19th

Getting there

By plane 1 Varna Airport (VAR IATA) (8 km (5.0 mi) west of the city centre, right off the A2 motorway), ☏ +359 52 573 323 (info desk). The airport receives flights from over 80 destinations all over the world (but mostly around Europe). The national carrier, Bulgaria Air, serves the only domestic line - to the capital Sofia, twice daily in the summer. (updated Feb 2023) Getting there and away:

By bus – Bus line 409 (see below) connects the airport to the city center and the outlying resorts (Sts. Constantine and Helena, Golden Sands); make sure to have some small-denomination cash for the ticket machine (10 лв note at most). For more details, see below. By taxi – There's a taxi stand in front of Terminal 2. The airport has a contract with Triumf Taxi (see the warning about taxi scams below). By rental car – At least half a dozen car rental services have offices at the airport.

By train Varna is well connected in Bulgaria's railway network. It's the last stop of two major lines: Sofia-Varna runs along almost the whole length of the country through North Bulgaria, and Ruse-Varna allows a connection to Romania and merges into the other one at the small town of Kaspichan. From Bucharest in Romania, you can take an international train to Ruse and then change to a national train to Varna (the shorter option), or you can buy a "direct" ticket that will send you on the same train, but the train car will be hitched to a national train at Gorna Oryahovitsa (if you are lucky - if not, you'll have to change trains by yourself again) and it will take longer with more than an hour. There are multiple daily direct trains from the cities along the main lines: Sofia (7½ to 8½ hours, depending on train; the line passes through the picturesque Iskar Gorge), Pleven (4½ hr), Ruse (4 hr), Razgrad (2¾ hr), Dobrich (2 hr), Targovishte (2 hr), and Shumen (90-130 min, depending on train). Other cities in Northern Bulgaria are less frequent and/or convenient: Vidin (10½ to 11½ hr) and Vratsa (6½ to 8 hours) require changing trains at Mezdra, Veliko Tarnovo can be done by changing at Gorna Oryahovitsa (just outside of Tarnovo; 4 hr to Varna) or a roundabout route through Southern Bulgaria; Silistra requires changing at Samuil (5¼ hr). South of the Balkan Mountains, from Plovdiv there's a once-daily direct train (6 hr) or changing at Karnobat (9 to 10 hr); from Burgas there's also a once-daily direct, but slow train (4¾ hr) or changing at Karnobat (3½ or 4¾ hr); there are two daily direct trains from Stara Zagora (3 hr 40 min) and Yambol (3hr) and various changing options.

Getting around

On foot Most sights and attractions are concentrated in the compact old part of Varna and the Sea Garden, where you can easily get around by foot. A pedestrian zone connects the Cathedral square to the main entrance of the Sea Garden, and both are within walking distance of the railway station. There are several beaches immediately below the Sea Garden, and the alley that runs along them starts in the same place as the street that leads to public part of the port, 10 min east of the railway station. Even the bus station is doable—25 min to the Cathedral, along a commercial boulevard. Distances do add up, so plan accordingly.

By bus Varna has an extensive public transport network served by buses and trolleybuses (electric buses powered by overhead wires). Online maps of bus stops, routes and current bus positions can be found on VarnaTraffic.com and Easyway; both have route planners and can use your GPS position to point you to the nearest bus stop(s), but while their interface (including bus stop names) is in English, the underlying maps are unfortunately mostly labelled in Bulgarian Cyrillic. Varna Traffic also has an ad-supported Android app. OpenStreetMap includes public transport routes for Varna in its Transport layer, so they can be displayed offline in apps that use OSM, such as OsmAnd or Mapy.cz; unfortunately, OSM is often late to reflect changes, including seasonal variation. Also, Varna's official tourism information site has a page on transport. With the exception of Bus 409 (see below), all lines are run by a municipal company. Paper tickets can be bought from ticket machines at bus stops and in the buses themselves. When they work properly, the machines accept coins, small-denomination notes and credit/debit cards. Tickets are based on duration, not route, and the "clock starts ticking" at the moment of sale. You have to validate (scan) your ticket when you board a vehicle if the ticket is bought from a bus stop or when changing routes/vehicles. As of February 2023, the prices for paper tickets are 2 лв for 60 min, 2.50 лв for 90 min, and 4 лв for a 24-hour pass. You can also buy an "electronic prepaid card" for 10 лв that offers discount prices: 1 лв for 60 min, 1.50 лв for 90 min and 4 лв for a 24-hr ticket. This card also has to be validated when boarding a vehicle. Cards can be recharged in 10 лв increments at ticket machines. In summary: if you are going to spend a day or two in Varna and plan to use public transport often, it's advisable to buy a 24-hour pass to avoid dealing with the unreliable ticket machines. For longer period

See

Sights and landmarks 1 Dormition of the Mother of God Cathedral (Dormition of the Theotokos Cathedral). 08:00–18:00. A symbol of the city and a major landmark due to its central location. People use the small park that surrounds it as a meeting place - "at the Cathedral" (na Katedralata). The tourism information center is right across the street. The cathedral was completed in 1886; the Dormition of Mary refers to the Eastern Orthodox belief that Mary died in spiritual peace and was then resurrected and taken bodily into Heaven. (updated Feb 2023) Other notable old Bulgarian Eastern Orthodox churches include the early 17th-century Theotokos Panagia; the St. Athanasius (former Greek metropolitan cathedral); the seamens' church of St. Nicholas the Miracle Worker; the Archangel Michael's chapel; and the St. Constantine and Helena church of the 16th century suburban monastery of the same name. 2 Independence Square (Площад "Независимост", Ploshtad Nezavisimost) (south of the Cathedral, across the street). Varna's central square and the starting point of a pedestrian area zigzagging to the entrance of the Sea Garden. The square itself is adjacent to two small parks (one has an equestrian statue of Tsar Kaloyan), the pretty theater and opera building (built 1912-1932), a large fountain in front of the Socialist-era Regional Courthouse, and the New Yorker store (built in 1977 in modernist style as a fashion store in the state-run Valentina chain). 3 Grand entrance to the Sea Garden (Morskata gradina). Also known under the self-explanatory name Primorski park (Seaside Park), the largest park in Varna stretches for several kilometers along the coast, one level above the beach alley. It contains multiple venues. Among those not listed elsewhere are a "children's corner" with various amusements (bouncy castle, bumper boats, etc), a petting zoo, many monuments (including an alley with busts of Soviet cosmonauts), open-air exercise equipment, and many cafes and restaurants. (updated Feb 2023) Varna's centre was rebuilt in late 19th and the earlier half of the 20th century by the nascent Bulgarian middle class in Western style, with local interpretations of Neo-Renaissance, Neo-Baroque, Neoclassicism, Art Nouveau and Art Deco. 4 Dragons in Love fountain ("above" the swimming pools, on the alley that enters the Sea Garden). Drinking fountain sourced from a hot spring and appropriately topped with a small statue of a pair of dragons. Built in 2010, sculptor Darin Lazarov. 5 Monument to Bulgarian-Soviet Friendship (a 300-step staircase connects it to Knyaz Boris I Bl

Do

There is a large tourist place where you can enjoy whatever entertainment that can be bought for money. There is something for every taste. But, you can also have nice walks in Varna. Football – PFC Cherno More play football in First League, Bulgaria's top tier. Their home ground is Stadion Ticha (capacity 8250) 1 km northeast of city centre. Their local rivals Sparak Varna are in the Second League.

Buy

There are a couple of large shopping malls (Grand Mall, Pfohe Mall, Central Plaza, Mall of Varna, Varna Towers) turning Varna into an attractive international shopping destination. There are also several international supermarkets (Metro, Kaufland, Carrefour) on the outskirts and traditional downtown shopping streets with boutiques and gift shops. Plenty of tourist stuff in the resorts sold in small stalls.

Eat

There are many good restaurants at very decent prices comparing other EU countries.

Budget

Near the beach 1 Nord, 9002 Primorski. In front of the beach (updated May 2022) 2 Morski valk, ul. "Odrin" 21, 9000 Center. Temporarily closed as of May 2022 (updated May 2022) 3 Arrest Bar Billiard, bul. "Primorski" №5. (updated May 2022)

In the city centre 4 Korean cuisine "Kimbap", ul. "Dragoman" 28. (updated May 2022) 5 Restorant Trifon Zarezan, ul. "Sheynovo" 14. Bulgarian cuisine (updated May 2022) 6 The Social Teahouse, ul. "Preslav" 53. (updated May 2022)

Around the Primorkski-Park 7 Dуrvenoto, ul. "Nayden Gerov" 1. (updated May 2022) 8 Chjou, ul. "Vasil Drumev" 3. (updated May 2022)

Some blocks from the city centre around the Boteva Gradina 9 Chinese Restaurant Asia, ul. "Veliko Hristov" 37. (updated May 2022)

Mid-range Alba – A variety of traditional and international dishes at very nice prices. In summer you can choose between sitting inside or the outside garden. Located just across Archaeological Museum in a yellow-green painted house. (updated May 2022) Sundogs – Also described as a pub by many, Sundogs is the go-to spot for many foreigners that live in Varna for its urban atmosphere and great food. Godzilla – A family friendly place, known for its pizzas. Happy Bar and Grill – A Bulgarian restaurant chain, based in Varna. Tasty kebabs. La Pastaria – Offering traditional Italian food, home made pasta and pizza. (Dragoman Street 45) BM – A nice restaurant offering mainly traditional cuisine as well as sea food. Located at the end of sea garden near to the Port of Varna.

Splurge Massa Kitchen – Great atmosphere with a wide range of food options Staria Chinar – Traditional and Black Sea food, with many locations in the city

Drink & nightlife

The beach at night tends to have the most night life in the summer. There are also clubs and bars in the city but some of them are closed during summer: e.g. Cubo, Horizont, Planet Club.

Sleep

There is a number of hotels in the city ranging from 2 to 5 stars. North of Varna, along a continuous 20-km-long strip, are the beachfront resorts of Euxinograd, Constatine and Helena, Sunny Day, Chaika, Riviera, and Golden Sands, with a total of more than 60,000 hotel beds, plus several villa communities offering private lodgings.

Budget Motivi Hotel. This is a family-run hotel providing comfortable B&B accommodation. It is in the seaside resort of St. Constantine and Helena and has direct public transport connection to the centre of Varna (15 min away). 1 Yo Ho Hostel, Rusie 23. Nice decoration. 48 лв (double room).

Mid-range Alekta Hotel – In the northern part of the Sea Garden, on the outskirts of the town, 200 m from the sea and about a 20-min walk from the town center, which can also be reached by regular bus services or by taxi. 2 Amfora Hotel (in St. Konstantin, 8 km north of Varna), ☏ +359 52 363979, [email protected]. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. The hotel is nice and not far from the coast (about 15 min). (updated Apr 2019) Aqua Hotel Varna, ul. "Devnya" 12 (near the railway station), ☏ +359 52 639090. This modern business hotel has six conference rooms suitable for all kinds of business events. Ellinis Hotel, ☏ +359 52 761 188. Built in 2005, the hotel is on the main road connecting Varna with the sea resorts "St. Konstantin and Helena" and "Golden Sands", 12 km from the airport, 1,500 m from the beach, and 5 min away from the city center. All rooms have balconies with sea views. Single: 29–40 лв, double: 40–50 лв. Petar Enchev Apartment. 2 nice bedrooms with a lounge, dining room, kitchen and shower room about 50 m far from the central beach. 88 лв.

Splurge Hotel Divesta – In the center of Varna, close to the main bus station. Boutique Splendid, Str. Bratia Shkorpil 30, ☏ +359 52 681 414, fax: +359 52 681 415, [email protected]. This hotel is in the middle of the town, opposite a grand cathedral. Single: 85–101 лв, double: 94–122 лв. (updated May 2017)

Go next

Outside the city are the Euxinograd palace, park and winery, the Ecopark Varna Botanical Garden, the Pobiti Kamani rock phenomenon, the cave monastery Aladzha, and the Kamchiya biosphere reserve (UNESCO-protected) There are many wild beaches south of town like Pasha Dere, Shkorpilovtsi, Karadere, and Irakli.

Golden Sands Resort – 17 km north from downtown Varna. Similar to Ballermann and Lloret de Mar—restaurants are more expensive but some good hotel bargains can be found if you like beach. Sveti Konstantin and Helena – 10 km north from downtown Varna. It is a small, but peaceful and very green resort. Many nice hotels offer mineral water SPA services, due to the abundance of hot mineral springs all over the area. Albena – 30 km north from Varna. An old-style resort, with an architecture from the Communist times. Peaceful area though. Since the whole resort is owned by a single private company, it is one of the very few places on Bulgaria's Black Sea coast that does not suffer from overbuilding. Balchik – 40 km north. The town features a small palace and a beautiful botanical garden. A few kilometres further along the coast you can find a semi-warm hot spring, and 1 km further the Tuzlata Mud Baths, similar procedure as the Dead Sea—the water is salty but not that salty though. There is a serviced area (M-Su 09:00-15:30, 6/3 лв), but the pools can also be accessed from their southern side walking along the beach. Kavarna (Каварна) – 60 km north. The town used to hold the Kavarna Rock Fest, the largest rock event in the Balkans and Black Sea region. Cape Kaliakra – 80 km north. The longest cape in Bulgaria. Stunning views to the sea and the red cliffs. A place with rich history and many legends. Worth visiting. Kamen Bryag (Камен бряг, literally: Rocky Coast) – 82 km north. The high rocky coast near the small village has been popular among Bulgarian hippies.