Tsugaru Peninsula

Understand

Traditionally one of the poorest and remotest areas of Japan, Tsugaru is best known as the birthplace of writer Osamu Dazai, who wrote the mordant travelogue Return to Tsugaru (ISBN 0870118412) about his travels around the peninsula, and for the Tsugaru-jamisen, a distinctive local version of the Japanese string instrument shamisen.

Tourist information Tsugaru Peninsula Sightseeing attendant, ☏ +81 173-26-7520. Its website is a good source for the whole area though Japanese-only. 1 Tappizaki Tourist Information (Tappikan), 59-12 Minmaya Tatsuhama, Sotogahama, ☏ +81 174-31-8025. daily 09:00-16:00. 2 Roadstation Imabetsu, 87-16 Okawadai aza Kiyokawa, Imabetsu, ☏ +81 174-31-5200. 09:00-17:00. near Okutsugaru Imabetsu st. 3 Kodomari Sightseeing Association, 1080-1 Kodomari aza Sunayama, Nakadomari, ☏ +81 173-64-3700. 09:00-16:00.

Getting there

By train Tsugaru is separated from Hokkaido by the Tsugaru Strait. There are trains from Aomori through Tsugaru and across via the Seikan Tunnel to Hakodate. Okutsugaru Imabetsu st. in Imabetsu, interchange with Buses can go to Nakadomari and Sotogahama.

By boat Mutsu wan Ferry service from Kanita to Wakinosawa in Shimokita Peninsula.

Getting around

To Kanagi (for the Shayōkan and the Shamisen Hall) and Tsugaru Nakazato, take the Tsugaru Railway from Goshogawara. To Yomogita, Imabetsu and Sotogahama (Cape Tappi and Kanita port) take Tsugaru line from Aomori or Okutsugaru Imabetsu.

See

1 Takayama Inari Shrine, Washinosawa-147-2 Ushigatacho, Tsugaru City (Tsugaru City), ☏ +81 173-56-2015. 08:00-17:00. Hundreds of red torii gates snake through a garden at this picturesque shrine near the Sea of Japan. Free. 2 Iwakiyama Shrine, 036-1343 (about half an hour from central Hirosaki). A peaceful mountain shrine partway up Mt. Iwaki. You'll need to climb some stairs to get to the shrine itself. Stop into one of the neighborhood onsen baths for a soul-soothing day trip from the city. 3 Cape Tappi (Tappizaki), Minnmaya, Sotogahama Town. The scenic northernmost point of the peninsula. Panoramic views of the Tsugaru Strait, Sea of Japan, and mountains of Hokkaido and Shimokita. There are some souvenir shops and restaurants near the lookout point, along with some monuments and an interesting dragon bridge. Route 339 briefly turns into a pedestrian path here. The hydrangeas, which are abundant, usually bloom in July. 4 Rice Paddy Art (20 minutes from Hirosaki; 1 hour from Aomori City). The rice field murals in Inakadate Village have made news around the world. See them for yourself from June to early October. There are two murals, one viewable from the tower at the village office, and the other from a tower near roadside plaza Yayoi no Sato. There's a shuttle between the two sites. 5 Seikan Tunnel Museum, 99 Minnmaya Tatsuhama, Sotogahama Town, ☏ +81 174-38-2301. If you hope see the tunnel, take Funicular can go to tunnel level. Closed in winter: early November to mid April. (The funicular stopped service for vehicle damage in Sept 2023. Cloud funding for repair is going on Readyfor). Museum ¥400 -, Funicular ¥1,000 -.

Do

1 Mori no Naka no Kajuen (Orchard in the Forest), Hirosaki, Totsurazawa, Kutsuwa−426 (about 1 hour from central Hirosaki), ☏ +81 80-1821-3059. 09:00-17:00. Admission gets you a knife, a basket, and permission to eat as much fruit as you want straight from the orchards. It's an additional cost to take fruit home. They grow raspberries, peaches, cherries, plums, strawberries, grapes, pears, walnuts, and others.... but no apples. The fruits in season are posted on the website. Adults ¥1500 (April–May), ¥1200 (June–October); Elementary school students ¥1000/¥800. 2 Tsugaru Kanayamayaki, Goshogawara, Kaneyama, Chiyozuru−5−79, ☏ +81 173-29-3350. Gallery 09:00-17:00. Shop and learn about pottery made from local Kanayama mountain clay. Check out the sculptures (outside and upstairs) made by visiting artists and take a peek at the kilns. The gallery staff insists beer and even water taste better served in kanayamayaki cups. You can make your own pottery too, but it takes several months to fire. The restaurant serves everything on kanyamayaki dishes, 10:00 to 16:00 (last order is 15:00), ¥700-1150. 3 Aomori Spring Ski Resort, 038-271275 (1 hour from central Hirosaki), ☏ +81 173-72-1011. Formerly known as Naqua Shirakami Resort. Ski resort in Ajigasawa Town. Golf in the summer. 4 Tairadate beach, Sotogahama, Tairadate Tanosawa, ☏ +81 174-31-2211. Near Tairadate light house.

Eat

Ezo scallop (Hotate-gai) - Ezo scallops farmed in Mutsu bay. Japanese basket clams (Yamato Shijimi) - also called simply Shijimi, sourced from lake Jusan. Yakiboshi - made with local fish such as Japanese anchovy, Japanese horse mackerel etc; the fish are also added to stock (dashi).

Sleep

Cheap 1 Odaiba Auto village, 67-1 Tairadate Tanosawa, Sotogahama, ☏ +81 174 31 2211. Check-in: camping 11:00, cottage 15:00, check-out: 10:00. Auto campingspace and cottages. camping ¥1,500 -, cottage ¥16,000 -.

Mid-range 2 Tairadate Furofushi Onsen, 132-1 Tairadate Negishi Yunosawa, Sotogahama, ☏ +81 174-25-2611. ¥8,790 per person. 3 Tsugaru Kodomari-Kan, 186 aza kodomari, Nakadomari, ☏ +81 173-64-3838. Serves fresh local fish. ¥8,000 per person.

Go next

Hakodate - Take Hokkaido Shinkansen. Mutsu - Take Mutsu wan ferry.