Toulouse

Understand

The city was a Roman settlement, "Tolosa", and the smaller inner streets still follow the ancient layout. After Rome fell, it became capital of a Visigoth kingdom, but the region was roiled by secular, dynastic and religious wars, such as those against the Cathar heretics. The Dominican Order was founded in the city in 1216 to win back the Cathars to orthodoxy by peaceful preaching, but when that didn't work the Pope launched a crusade and massacre. Toulouse and its realm thereby lost independence and in 1271 were annexed to the Kingdom of France. In the fourteenth century, Toulouse was devastated by pogroms, the Black Death, famine, and war. In the fifteenth century, it became wealthy from its monopoly on "pastel," a blue pigment extracted from woad plants, only to slump again when the monopoly was broken by indigo imports from India. It suffered several fires, the worst in 1463, so it was re-built in brick rather than wood. An 18th-century boom led to a spate of construction in pink terracotta brick, giving rise to its nickname La ville rose. The university flourished: founded in 1229, it's one of the oldest in the world, and now has over 100,000 students. Fermat pondered his theorems here in between his legal work. On 10 April 1814, Toulouse saw the last battle of the forces led by Wellington out of Spain against Napoleon – neither side was aware that Napoleon had already surrendered. Marshal Soult held the city for a day then fled. The city missed out on the Industrial Revolution, but in the 20th century its distance from Germany and Britain made it a safe base for the fledgling French aviation and defence industries. These burgeoned by the end of the century so Toulouse has become a major centre of aviation and spaceflight. A tenth of the inner city population work in aerospace, and Airbus is the largest employer in the region, with its global headquarters in the neighbouring town of Blagnac. Office de Tourisme, Square Charles de Gaulle (Metro: Capitole), ☏ +33 5 1742 3131. M-Sa 09:30-19:00, Su 10:00-18:00. The visitor information centre is in the square on the east side of the Capitole. (updated Aug 2023)

Getting there

By plane 1 Toulouse–Blagnac Airport (TLS IATA). The airport is 8 km west of the city. It has flights at least hourly from Paris (Orly Airport and CDG). Other domestic destinations include Lille, Lyon, Marseille, Nantes, Nice, and Strasbourg. International flights include Algiers, Amsterdam Schiphol, Berlin, Birmingham, Bristol, Brussels, Casablanca, Frankfurt Airport, Lisbon, London (Heathrow, Gatwick & Stansted), Madrid Barajas, Manchester Airport, Munich Airport, Oran, and Venice. You may also see strange "where's that??" destinations on the departure board – these are technical and service flights by Airbus. With luck you may spot the ginormous Beluga Airbus, capable of transporting entire wings. The airport has the usual facilities including car hire, and there's a Novotel close by. (updated Aug 2023) Onward travel options in 2023 are:

Airport Navette runs from Arrivals Gate C to the main railway station, taking 25 min via 4 downtown stops, every 15 min 06:00–00:00. Single fare is €9, valid for 90 min for transfers onto city public transport. Tisseo Bus towards Blagnac, whichever departs next. Bus 30 brings you to Odyssud-Ritouret and Bus 31 to Pasteur – Marie de Blagnac, both on Tram line T1 from MEETT to the city. Ride the tram all the way to Palais de Justice (Metro B) or get off at Arènes for west bank and Metro A. This connection runs every 10–20 min from 06:00 to midnight and takes 50 min, for the princely sum of €1.80. The direct Tram T2 has been discontinued due to the construction of Metro Line C. A taxi to central Toulouse costs €35 if your destination is in Zone 3, or €25 if in Zone 2 (most of the historic centre falls in Zone 3), as of 2024. Uber and Bolt are available and should be considerably cheaper than a taxi. Shuttles can be arranged to other destinations such as Andorra — a good option if you're laden with ski gear.

By train Wikivoyage has a guide to Rail travel in France. 2 Toulouse-Matabiau Station. TGVs run from Paris Montparnasse every hour or two and take 4 hr 30 min via Bordeaux. From Lyon the quickest takes 4 hours, but you usually have to change at Montpellier. Trains from Marseille take 4 hours via Arles, Montpellier, Narbonne (for Perpignan, Girona and Barcelona) and Carcassonne. From Madrid travel via Barcelona and Narbonne. From the Spanish north coast travel via Bayonne, Pau and Tarbes. A slow winding line also crosses the Pyrenees via Latour from Barcelona: see "Go next".Until mid 2026 there is maintenance on the metro station connecting to the train station. It now takes about 10 minutes to walk the long wa

Getting around

Toulouse is a big city, but the historical centre is compact, between the Garonne River and Metro B Line. You can walk to most attractions.

Bus, tram, metro lines and cable car are operated by Tisseo. Tram T1 starts downtown at Palais de Justice, crosses the river west to Arènes interchange, then runs north to Beauzelle and the MEETT – get off in Blagnac for the airport bus. (Tram 2 is axed.) Metro line A runs southwest to northeast, from the University through Arènes and the railway station. Metro line B runs north–south, passing the main railway station and Palais de Justice. There is a suburban train west to Colomiers and Arènes which can be taken with a Tisseo fare. Buses run along all the main streets but don't come into the pedestrianised core of the city, except the free city-centre shuttle (M–Sa) – no bus stops for this one, just wave at the driver. A single ticket paid on the bus costs €2.50 in Jan 2025. A ticket from a machine or kiosk for any Tisseo transport is €1.80, a book of 10 is €15.40 and a one-day pass is €6.90. Validate your ticket on boarding, and it's good for transfers within one hour (within 90 min to and from the airport.) Metro services run late at night but there is also an extensive night bus network Taxi operators include Taxi Toulouse (+33 5 6120 9000) and Capitole (+33 5 3425 0250). Book ahead to avoid long waits for a ride. Bike rental is organised by Town Hall. First you need to buy a ticket at velo.toulouse.fr or at a bike station. A one-day ticket is €1.20 and a 7-day pass is €5, longer hires are available. You have unlimited journeys, for no extra charge for the first 30 min, then the meter starts ticking. Bike lanes The city has a dense network of bike lanes and bicycle-friendly streets with little motorized traffic. A lot of people cycle and it is generally very safe and enjoyable to move in the city by bike. Along the Canal du Midi there is a pleasant bike lane connecting important locations like the center and the university campus. Avoid going downtown with a car as parking is seriously limited and many streets are closed to motorized traffic. Try using a suburban, metro or tram station as a park-and-ride.

See

City centre The old centre of Toulouse is east of the River Garonne: it's compact and most places of interest can easily be visited on foot. It's bounded to the east and north by Bvd Lazare Carnot / Bvd de Strasbourg, and to the south by the cathedral, Rue Metz and Pont Neuf.

1 Basilique Saint-Sernin, 7 Place St-Sernin (Metro: Jean-Jaurès), ☏ +33 5 6121 8045. A red-brick church from the 11–12th century, it may well be the largest Romanesque construction in the world, partly because it was an important stopover on the pilgrimage to Santiago. Huge as it is, it's the only remnant of the former Abbey of Saint-Sernin. Notable features are the great bell-tower, the gates, the "ambulatory" passage, and the thunderous organ. In the 19th century the church was "restored" by the famous French architect Viollet-le-Duc: some of his re-imaginings of the Middle Ages are now being undone. Saint Sernin or Saturnin (d 257) was one of a group sent from Rome to Christianise 3rd century Gaul; he was martyred by being dragged to death by a bull. (updated Aug 2023) 2 Saint Raymond Museum (Musée Saint-Raymond), Place Saint-Sernin (next to Basilica Saint-Sernin, Metro: Jeanne-d’Arc), ☏ +33 5 6122 3144. Tu–Su 10:00–18:00. An archaeological museum with Roman artefacts from around Toulouse as well as the largest collection of Roman busts found in France. The site in ancient times was a necropolis then a hospital for pilgrims on the road to Santiago. The present building is from 1523 and became a museum in 1892. Adult €5, conc €3. (updated Aug 2023) 3 Notre-Dame de la Daurade, 1 Place de la Daurade (Metro: Esquirol), ☏ +33 5 6121 3832. Daily 09:00–18:00. This church was founded in 410 AD as a pagan temple to Apollo but demolished in 1761. The present neoclassical building was completed in 1883 and restored in 2017–19. (updated Aug 2023) 4 Cathédrale Saint-Étienne, Place Saint-Étienne (Metro: François Verdier), ☏ +33 5 6152 0382. Daily 08:00–19:00. This great ramshackle edifice is partly Gothic but mostly Dog's Breakfast – the medieval builders made a hash of things on a sublime scale. They half-built one church, abandoned it, started building another, abandoned that, while other sections were added and added instead of starting over with a clear site. The Archbishop of Toulouse has to come to work in this Frankencathedral. (updated Aug 2023) 5 Hôtel d'Assézat, Place d'Assézat, ☏ +33 5 6112 0689. 10AM to 6PM. Great mansion house built in the 16th century in Renaissance style for a rich merchant. It now houses the personal art collection of Georges Bemberg (1915–2011). (updated A

Do

What's on? For local events read La Dépêche du Midi or Intramuros, or watch TV Sud or the local section of France 3. Take a walk along the river quays. Théâtre du Capitole hosts the opera house and orchestra, Box Office +33 5 6163 1313. 1 Canal du Midi is the eastern and more interesting section of the "Canal des Deux Mers", and it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It starts from the River Garonne to the northwest, circling city centre so its first few km are walkable. But the best sections are further out, as it climbs the hillside then descends through Carcassonne and Beziers towards Étang de Thau on the Med. So you probably want a bike or canal barge to explore it. Rent a bike: see "Get around". Rugby Union: 2 Stade Toulousain ("Les rouges et noirs") play Rugby Union in the French Top 14. They're seldom out of the top places and so qualify for European tournaments – they've won the European Rugby Champions Cup a record four times. Their home ground is Stade Ernest Wallon, but big matches are often played at the Stadium de Toulouse. Rugby League: Toulouse Olympique or TO XIII play in the English RL system Feb–Oct. They were promoted in 2025 and now play in Super League, the top tier. TO XIII share Stade des Sept Deniers (aka Stade Ernest-Wallon). Their second-string team Toulouse Olympique Broncos play Oct-Mar in the French top tier Super XIII at Stade de Minimes. Football: Toulouse FC play soccer in Ligue 1, the top tier. Their home ground is 3 Stadium de Toulouse (capacity 33,000, formerly "Stadium Municipal") on the river island 1 km south of city centre. Golf: a dozen courses around the city, such as Golf de Toulouse 5 km south. 4 La Grainerie, 61 Rue Saint-Jean, Balma (5 km east of centre), ☏ +33 5 6124 3391. Performing arts theatre with a special interest in circus. (updated Aug 2023) 5 L'Usine, 6 Impasse Marcel Paul, Tournefeuille, ☏ +33 5 6107 4518. Theatre and artists collective. (updated Aug 2023) La Kermesse is a music festival at the Pony Club near the airport, next held 16–19 Aug 2023. Piano Jacobins is next held 6–29 Sept 2023.

Buy

Supermarkets: the main chain within city centre is Carrefour. Flea markets are on Saturday morning outside the Basilica of St-Sernin, and first weekend of the month at Allées François Verdier, at the Grand Rond. Fruit & veg markets are along Bvd de Strasbourg on weekday mornings, next to Saint Aubin basilica on Sunday morning and on the boulevard next to the Jeanne d'Arc metro station Friperies are second-hand clothing shops. Find them especially on Rue Gambetta, behind the Ecole des Beaux Arts, and around Place de la Bourse. Violets are processed into many items of giftware, such as soap, perfume, candy and syrup.

Eat

Local specialities are:

Duck, for instance canard confit (roast duck leg) or canard foie gras (duck liver pate). Cassoulet is a stew made with white beans, meat (such as Toulouse sausage), and pork skin. Violets used to make candy. The areas around Place du Capitole, Bvd de Strasbourg and Place St Georges are lined with cafes and restaurants.

Budget 1 L'oasis, 41 Rue Pargaminières. 11:00–02:00 (–03:00 Sat, 11:30–01:00 Sun). This Turkish place is quite popular with students, and it's not hard to see why when they serve a generous portion of good food at low prices. €7–10. (updated Nov 2023) 2 Les Halles Victor Hugo, Place Victor Hugo. Tu–Su 08:00–13:30. The ground floor is a big food market. Upstairs are five little restaurants open until 15:00, with a string more on the street east. (updated Aug 2023) Le Gout en Train, 5 Bis Rue Caussette (south side of Les Halles Victor Hugo), ☏ +33 5 6230 0808. M–F 11:00–14:00. The best of the cluster around the market, with home-style cuisine. (updated Aug 2023) Restaurant Le May, 4 Rue du May (50 m west of Musée du Vieux Toulouse), ☏ +33 5 6123 9876. M–Sa 12:00–14:00, 20:00–23:00. Good value home-style cuisine at this cosy brick-lined bistro. French cuisine. (updated Aug 2023) Le Safran, 8 Rue de la Bourse (block north of Hôtel d'Assézat, Metro: Esquirol), ☏ +33 6 8223 8702. Th–Sa 12:00–19:00. Simple authentic vegetarian Moroccan dishes, charming boss. (updated Aug 2023) 3 Au Gascon, 9 Rue des Jacobins (Metro: Capitole), ☏ +33 5 6121 6716. M–Sa 11:30–14:00, 19:00–22:00. Cuisine of Gascony, the southwest corner of France. Great value for the quality. (updated Aug 2023) 4 Caminito, 3 Rue des Gestes (Metro: Capitole), ☏ +33 5 6123 5174. M–Sa 12:00–15:00, 19:00–23:00. Authentic Argentinian cuisine such as empanadas in a friendly atmosphere. (updated Aug 2023) 5 Chez nous les Libanais, 6 Rue Jean Suau (Metro: Esquirol), ☏ +33 7 6703 9603. Daily 12:00–23:30. East Med staples such as falafel, kebabs and shwarma, in an authentically chaotic ambiance. Cash only. (updated Aug 2023) La Faim des Haricots, 2bis Rue du Puits Vert (50 m south of Musée du Vieux Toulouse), ☏ +33 5 6122 4925. Daily 12:00–22:00. Vegetarian / vegan restaurant with a wide menu or choice from the buffet. (updated Aug 2023) 6 La Gouaille, 6 Rue Joutx Aigues (Metro: Carmes), ☏ +33 5 6125 6566. Daily 19:00–23:30. Regional fare in a friendly atmosphere. (updated Aug 2023)

Mid-range

Le Bibent, 5 Place du Capitole (Metro: Capitole), ☏ +33 6 4871 7365. Daily 08:00–00:00. You're paying for the sumptuous interior, but this is high-end cuisine, and the

Drink & nightlife

The George and Dragon is a lively British-style pub with TV sport. It's at 1 Place de Peyrou 150 m west of the Basilica. Hopscotch, 3 Rue Baour Lormian (block south of Capitole). Tu–Sa 16:00–02:00, Su M 16:00–00:00. Scots-themed pub with food, micro-brewery and huge selection of whisky. (updated Aug 2023) The Classroom is an Irish pub at 42 Rue Pargaminières 300 m west of Capitole. 1 La Beer Fabrique, 12 Ave Etienne Billières, ☏ +33 6 9535 1917. Brewery organising classes where you brew your own. (updated Aug 2023) 2 Le Biergarten, 60 Grand Rue Saint-Michel (Metro: Saint-Michel Marcel Langer), ☏ +33 5 6173 8377. Tu–Sa 17:00–02:00, Su M 17:00–00:00. Just what you need to enjoy the local ambiance, a trad Bavarian beer garden. (updated Aug 2023) The Botanist is an English-style alehouse with good grub. It's at 33 Bvd Maréchal Leclerc south flank of the Japanese Garden, open M–F 09:00–02:00, Sa 15:00–03:00, Su 12:00–02:00. Distilleries: Maison Victors or Straw Bale Distillery make pink Pastis. They're in Vacquiers 20 km north, tours by arrangement. Bear Brothers 10 km south in Auzeville make vodka, gin, and raw spirits for liqueur manufacturers. Black Mountain 10 km west past the airport make Occitan Whisky.

Sleep

Budget 1 La Petite Auberge de Saint-Sernin, 17 Rue d'Embarthe (Metro: Compans-Caffarelli), ☏ +33 7 6088 1717. Clean friendly hostel less than 1 km from centre. Not much of a common area, but each room has an open kitchen and lounge area. Dorm €25 ppn. (updated Aug 2023)

Mid-range Ibis Toulouse Gare Matabiau is next to the railway station. 2 Citadines Wilson Toulouse, 8 Blv de Strasbourg (Metro: Jeanne d'Arc), ☏ +33 5 3441 7500. These are serviced self-catering apartments, ranging from studios to one-bedroom layouts. They're mostly for extended stays but often have short-term availability. Some are suitable for people with reduced mobility. Double (room only) €80. (updated Aug 2023) 3 Hotel Le Grand Balcon, 8-10 Rue Jean-Antoine Romiguières (Metro: Jean-Jaurès), ☏ +33 5 3425 4409, [email protected]. Built in the 19th century, given a 1930s make-over commemorating aviation in the city: St-Exupery was one famous guest. Mostly clean and efficient. B&B double €150. (updated Aug 2023) 4 Novotel Toulouse Centre Wilson, 15 Place President Wilson (Metro: Jean-Jaurès), ☏ +33 5 6110 7070. Convenient hotel, usually smart and clean. B&B double €150. (updated Aug 2023) 5 Hotel le Clocher de Rodez, 15 Place Jeanne d'Arc (Opposite Metro: Jeanne d'Arc), ☏ +33 5 6162 4292, [email protected]. The hotel is an 18th-century building and feels its age, with mixed reviews for comfort and cleanliness. B&B double €70. (updated Aug 2023) 6 Hotel Innes (formerly Hotel Athénée), 13 Rue Matabiau (Metro: Jeanne d'Arc), ☏ +33 5 6163 1063. Standard reliable Best Western chain hotel. B&B double €80. (updated Aug 2023) Ibis Toulouse Centre is round the corner from Hotel Innes at 2 Rue Claire Pauilhac. 7 Hôtel Saint Claire, 29 Place Nicolas Bachelier, ☏ +33 5 3440 5888, [email protected]. Small and stylish hotel, centrally located, with a blend of modern and classic design. (updated Aug 2023) 8 Novotel Toulouse Purpan Aéroport, 23 Impasse de Maubec (off Ave de Grande Bretagne), ☏ +33 5 6115 0000. Clean, efficient friendly place 3 km from airport, with shuttle bus. B&B double €90. (updated Aug 2023)

Go next

Albi was the childhood home of Toulouse-Lautrec. His ancestral home now houses a gallery of his work. Carcassonne is within a day trip, but you really ought to stay overnight in its fantastical citadel, which inspired Disney Castle. Following the river downstream or its parallel canal leads you via Montauban, Moissac and Agen to Bordeaux. Branching north at Montauban leads to the picturesque town of Puy l'Eveque on the River Lot. Andorra can be reached by N20 unless blocked by snow. The all-seasons route is from Spain on N-145 from La Seu d'Urgell. A scenic train route from Toulouse winds through the Pyrenees to Barcelona. From Toulouse main station take the local train via Vernet d'Ariège to Foix (75 min, every couple of hours.) Several trains continue for another 75 min to L'Hospitalet-près-l'Andorre (the closest railway station to Andorra) and Latour-de-Carol / Entveig on the Spanish border (3 hours altogether). Latour is an oddity: it's in France sandwiched between two tracts of Spain: the Spanish exclave of Llivia is just north. And it's a station with three different railway gauges: European (SNCF) standard, Spanish (Renfe) standard, and the metre-gauge "Little Yellow Train". The Spanish trains run south to Barcelona Sants 5 times a day, 3 hours. (They're classed as suburban trains so they're not on mainline timetables. Search on Renfe Cercanias for Barcelona, and use the Spanish name "La Tour de Querol".) The Little Yellow Train is a tourist train that climbs over the mountains to Villefranche-de-Conflent (3 hours, with connections onward to Perpignan). It runs twice every day throughout the year. Finding online timetables is difficult, try the Cerdagne region website.