Tbilisi

Understand

Tbilisi (formerly called 'Tiflis' after its Russian name) lies in the centre of eastern Georgia, in the foothills of the Trialeti mountain range. According to Georgian legends, it was founded in the 5th century by King Vakhtang Gorgasali who, while hunting, shot a pheasant which fell into a warm spring and was either boiled or healed. Either way, the king was inspired to found a city on the site, and the name of the city derives from the Georgian word tbili meaning "warm". Although the city has been destroyed and rebuilt 29 times, the layout of the Old Town is largely intact with narrow alleys and big crooked houses built around courtyards.

Climate

Tbilisi experiences relatively cold winters and hot summers. Because the city is bounded on most sides by mountain ranges, the close proximity to large bodies of water (Black and Caspian Seas) and the fact that the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range (further to the north) blocks the intrusion of cold air masses from Russia, Tbilisi has a relatively mild micro-climate compared to other cities that possess a similar continental climate along the same latitudes. The average annual temperature in Tbilisi is 12.7 °C (54.9 °F). January is the coldest month with an average temperature of 0.9 °C (33.6 °F). July is the hottest month with an average temperature of 24.4 °C (75.9 °F). The absolute minimum recorded temperature is −24 °C (−11 °F) and the absolute maximum is 40 °C (104 °F). Average annual precipitation is 568 mm (22.4 in). May and June are the wettest months (averaging 84 mm (3.3 in) of precipitation each) while January is the driest (averaging 20 mm (0.8 in) of precipitation). Snow falls on average 15–25 days per year. The surrounding mountains often trap the clouds within and around the city, mainly during the Spring and Autumn months, resulting in prolonged rainy and/or cloudy weather. Northwesterly winds dominate in most parts of Tbilisi throughout the year. Southeasterly winds are common as well.

Visitor information 1 Tourism Office, Freedom Square, Rustaveli Ave (north side of the square). Daily 09:00-21:00. They provide a free, very detailed booklet with city map. (updated Oct 2018) Tbilisi municipal government website

Getting there

By plane 1 Shota Rustaveli Tbilisi International Airport (TBS IATA, Georgian: თბილისის საერთაშორისო აეროპორტი, Tbilisis saertasoriso aeroporti), Airport St (17 km east of city centre), ☏ +995 32 310 265, fax: +995 32 310 322, [email protected]. Small but reasonably modern terminal. Seven food and drink outlets, four duty free shops. There is an ATM and a branch of Liberty Bank (☏ +995 322 555500). Several bureau de change operate 24/7. The three main mobile phone companies sell SIM cards in the arrivals area. (updated Oct 2018) See this section for the very limited domestic flights to the city. International flights go to Tbilisi regularly from Aktau, Almaty, Amsterdam, Antalya, Athens, Baku, Belgrade, Doha, Donetsk, Dnipro, Dubai, Istanbul IST & SAW, Kazan, Kharkiv, Kyiv KBP, London LGW, Minsk, Moscow DME & ZIA, Munich, Novosibirsk, Odesa, Paris CDG, Prague, Riga, Rome, Rostov-on-Don, Sochi, St Petersburg, Tallinn, Tel Aviv, Vienna, Vilnius, Warsaw, Yekaterinburg and Yerevan. There are summer seasonal flights to the Med and Red Sea resorts. You may also want to consider arriving in the Kutaisi Airport. Flight prices from Asia and Europe can be as low as €20-30. The low fare routes are (as of May 2021) from Vienna, Larnaca, Prague, Tallin, Berlin, Dortmund, Memmingen, Athens, Thessaloniki, Budapest, Milan, Rome, Riga, Vilnius, Gdansk, Katowice, Kraków, Poznan, Warsaw, Wroclaw and Abu Dhabi. From Kutaisi to Tbilisi you go 4 hours in a marshrutka for 20 lari. Or you can take the train. Getting there and away:

By bus – Bus 337 leaves from the right corner of the arrival area. From 06:59 to 22:59 every 20-30 min. The night bus between 23:00–06:30 is not running (as of June 2022). Via Avlabari, Freedom Square, Rustaveli, Republic Square and Tamar Bridge to the main train station; allow 50 min. The fare is 1 lari with Metromoney Card, or 1.50 lari with credit card (contactless payment required). You will need either, coins are not accepted anymore. Also see: Tbilisi Transport Company Don't count on the last or last two airport buses to run to the airport. Nothing is overly reliable in Georgia, especially when taxi drivers can earn an extra lari. In May 2023, the last airport bus departed Tbilisi's main railroad station at 23:50. By taxi – Between the airport and the city it costs 20–30 lari. Standard rates are listed on a board by the taxi rank as you exit the airport, on the right hand side. As of early 2019, the tourist information in the airport quotes 30–50 lari, but Yandex.Go and Bolt can already be had for 20 lari. Taxi drivers (even of the "official

Getting around

By public transport The primary transport inside and outside the Tbilisi city are metro, buses and marshrutka (converted transport vans aka minibuses aka microbuses). Check the Tbilisi Transport Company website for live overview and more information on buses. Otherwise, to find the correct bus route, GoogleMaps has comprehensive bus network information with numbers and routes. If you click on one of the numerous bus stops around the city or next to you, you will get displayed the bus lines, their routes and frequency. There is the Metromoney (IC) card, which must be used for most of Tbilisi's public transport options and tapped when entering any vehicle or station. Visa is also possible on some buses, but 50% extra. The Metromoney card gives discounts when transferring between metro, buses and minibuses, specifically the first ride is 1 lari (for either metro, buses or marshrutka) and all subsequent rides are free within the next 1½ hr. Several people can use one card together, however, only the first person can profit from the free transfer. You can buy the card at any metro station, with a one-time "non-refundable" deposit of 2 lari. (It can be refunded though if you have the original receipt and register the card onto your name.) The card can be topped up with any amount in metro stations or at Bank of Georgia pay-booths around the city. Buses and metro station turnstiles will also accept contactless cards, though your bank may charge you for this service.

By metro

Tbilisi has a two-line metro system, which operates from 06:00–24:00. However, sometimes the last metros leave at around 23:00 from either end. All signs inside the metro are in Georgian and English, but station name signs are not always visible from the train. Station names are also announced in two languages. There are rarely system maps on the train cars themselves. You will be lucky to find English speakers riding the Metro. You will however have better luck with Russian, which older people will speak. Take a bilingual map with you if you are not proficient with the local alphabet/pronunciation. Some rebuilt metro cars have USB charging ports near the doors, so that passengers can charge their phone. Cell coverage exists in most stations.

By bus City buses are green and blue, and come in various sizes. The bus number and a description of the route are usually listed on signs in the bus windows, but only in Georgian. The city has installed electronic arrival boards, with reasonably accurate estimated arrival times, at bus stops on major roads. The signs alternate between English

See

Museums The Georgian National Museum is the umbrella organisation for a dozen museums and other sites in Tbilisi and elsewhere, with practical info in English. Usually they charge 7 lari for an adult, and are closed Mondays. 1 Open Air Museum of Ethnography (ეროვნული მუზეუმი ღია ცის ქვეშ), Kus Tba 1 (1 Turtle Lake Road, Tortoise pond lane) კუსტბის გზა #1) (Bus 59 from Metro Rustaveli; Bus 9 from station square and a little walk up), ☏ +995 32 2729045, fax: +995 32 2982133. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. Part of the Georgian National Museum. "Skansen"-type museum with 70 houses and other buildings characteristic of the various parts of Georgia, plus household gadgetry and craft tools. The houses are in variable states of repair, some are tumbledown but especially those near the entry gate are okay and with helpful docents. Allow a half day for a visit, a quiet escape from the city. Adults 25 lari, guided tour 60 lari. (updated Oct 2018) 2 Museum of Fine Arts (საქართველოს ხელოვნების მუზეუმი), 1 Gudiashvili Street (Metro: Liberty Sq.), ☏ +995 32 999909, fax: +995 32 2982133. Tu–Su 10:00–18:00. Part of the Georgian National Museum. Large permanent collection from antiquity to present. Adults 3 lari, students 1 lari. (updated Oct 2018) 3 Tbilisi History Museum (Former Caravanserai / თბილისის ისტორიის მუზეუმი), #8 Sioni St, ☏ +995 32 2982281, fax: +995 32 2982133, [email protected]. Tu–Su 10:00–18:00. Part of the Georgian National Museum. Adults 3 lari, students 1 lari. (updated Oct 2018) 4 Museum of Georgia (საქართველოს ისტორიის ჯანაშიას სახ. მუზეუმი, Simon Janashia Museum), 3 Shota Rustaveli avenue (Metro: Freedom Square 200 m), ☏ +995 32 299 8022, fax: +995 32 298 2133, [email protected]. Tu–Su 10:00–18:00. Part of the Georgian National Museum, the Museum of Georgia houses Caucasian artefacts of archaeology and ethnography. A permanent exposition follows developments from the Bronze Age to the early 20th century. Gold was mined and worked here from a very early date - it was probably the origin of the "Golden Fleece" legend - so the area developed its own style, which influenced Achaemenid and Hellenistic jewellery. The most valuable exhibits include Homo ergaster fossils discovered at Dmanisi; the Akhalgori hoard of the 5th century BC; a collection of 80,000 coins chiefly of Georgian minting; medieval icons and goldsmith pieces collected from various sites in Georgia; and a lapidary with a rich collection of Urartian inscriptions. Nominally a separate Museum of Soviet Occupation, but simply the 4th floor of the same building, depicts Georgia's treatment at the hands of it

Do

1 Sulphur Baths (Abanotubani), Bath Street (აბანოს ქუჩა) (from Metro Avlabari 1 km SW, south side of the Metekhi bridge). The main bath district is easy to spot with its small domes on ground level. There are several small baths offering different levels of comfort. The baths are relatively small, and you may have to wait for a pool to become available. English service is not guaranteed. Massages are available; however, they are more like a washing, but well worth it for the experience. You should bring your own towel and beach sandals but also they are available for a small fee, but pricey compared to the 3 lari if you use the public bath. Some travellers have suggested the Royal Baths is a much better alternative to Sulphur Baths (they are next to each other). Sulphur baths tend to double the price at the end of the massage and bath in spite of your original agreed price. Private pool: 50–200 lari/hr; massage/scrub 5–20 lari. 2 Bath No. 5 (Public bath), 4 Mirza Fatali Akhudovi. This is the only public bath in this area right at the beginning, follow the neon light. It is definitely worth the experience, so do not miss it. The men's section has a central shower area, a hot pool and a sauna. The women's public section only provides showers and massage, and are probably not worth it. Massage is 10 lari extra. Bring slippers and towel or rent them there for extra cost. 10 lari men, 6 lari women. (updated Oct 2025) 3 Turtle Lake (Kus T'ba) (take a taxi or walk up from Saburtalo). This lake is in the hilly outskirts of Tbilisi. A popular weekend getaway for families, the lake offers pedal-boat rentals as well as swimming (deckchairs optional) for reasonable prices (swimming entry, without deckchair, is about 3 lari). Alright for a hot summer day, and offering views of the mountains and of the city below. Snackbars, restaurants and fruit cocktail shakers are available overlooking the lake. It's about an hour's pleasant walk from the Saburtalo district along country roads, passing the Ethnographical Museum, or a 10-15 minute (5–10 lari) cab ride from the center. There is also a funicular (cable car), going up from the corner of Vale Park at 74 Ilia Chavchavadze Avenue (running daily 08:00–20:00). While the lake itself isn't particularly nice, the views from the hike up to the lake makes it a worthwhile excursion. 4 Lake Lisi (Lisis T'ba), Reservoir Road (5.1 km SW-W). Much further out than Turtle Lake (a cab will set you back about 10–15 lari each way), Lake Lisi is much larger and more remote, with long, winding mountain walks surrounding the lake. Unlike T

Buy

Money Money exchange kiosks generally have a spread of less than 1% between "buy" and "sell" rates for major currencies—excellent value by western standards.

Shopping Shops and restaurants around Kote Afkhazi Street (i.e. Old Tbilisi) are overpriced tourist-trippy-rippy places, double or more of what you pay elsewhere.

What Antiques & other miscellaneous gifts – in Georgia you will be able to find many antiques from Georgia, the Middle East, Mediterranean, Russia and Europe. Gold, silver, precious stones, and other jewellery – Many foreigners visit Georgia to buy jewellery, because of its cheap cost and superior quality, there is a dizzying selection available upstairs in one of the malls N/W of station square metro. Georgian wine – Georgia is the cradle of wine making, and with 521 original varieties of grape you will be sure to find excellent wines. Brandy (locally called 'cognac') – made from Georgian wine. Mineral waters – Borjomi, Sairme, Nabeghlavi mineral waters from Georgian resorts. Georgian sparkling waters all have a much more metallic taste (not unpleasant, more unexpected) than that of those in Western Europe. Chacha – Grape vodka, a Georgian version of grappa. Available in supermarkets or homemade available in local markets for as little as 3 lari. Peach chacha is harder to find but goes down rather more smoothly than the more traditional 'grappa'-type stuff. Churchkhela aka "Georgian snickers" – A traditional sweet made by dipping a string of nuts repeatedly into a grape sauce, a must-try. Tea -- Georgia, especially Guria and Samegrelo, has a small tea production, and at least in luggage, tea makes an easier gift than wine. The Tea Museum (really a store) on Galaktion Tabidze street can explain more about what is on offer. Other stores in tourist areas also offer a small selection of organic teas.

Where Markets:

1 The flea market (Dry Bridge Market), Dzveli Tbilisi, ~3 Zviad Gamsakhurdia Named Right Bank (by the river on the "Dry Overpass" and surrounding areas; from Metro Station Freedom Square 0.6 km NW). Every Saturday, but seems to be every day nowadays until sunset. This is one of the best places to get jewellery, antiques, antique swords, musical instruments, and electronics. Haggling is encouraged, although if you speak little Georgian or Russian you may experience the odd juxtaposition of bargaining for antiques using the type-pad of your vendor's mobile phone. Very popular with tourists, so prices are inflated. 2 Dezerter Bazaar (Main vegetable/fruit market) (between Station Square and Dinamo Arena). Sells everything,

Eat

Budget Street side stalls selling Georgian fast food are all over the city. Some kind of hot snack will cost 0.70-2.50 lari.

City centre 1 Kiwi Vegan Cafe, 6 Ivane Machabeli St (in Old Town between Pushkin and Leselidze), ☏ +995 322990456. Vegan cafe. Low prices, delicious, has tofu. 4-7 lari (Dec 2017). (updated Aug 2022) 2 Racha, 4 Mikheil Lermontovi St. Great and authentic Georgian restaurant. It is not fancy, but it is real and the food is tasty. An interesting place in the basement for unpretentious tourists who want to eat inexpensively. The menu offers a selection of national dishes. You can feel the atmosphere of Georgia here. (updated Aug 2022) 3 Veliaminov, 8 Shalva Dadiani St. Restaurant with Georgian cuisine. It has the most delicious khinkali. (updated Aug 2022) 4 Family kitchen, 1 Giorgi Leonidze St. Delicious dishes and comfortable atmosphere. There are options for those who don't eat meat. It works like in a canteen. (updated Aug 2022) 5 Good Mood Food, 1، Kote Afkhazi St. Small eatery serving different kinds of Khachapuri. (updated Aug 2022) 6 Tom Yum Thai Food, Lado Asatiani 48. Excellent authentic Thai dishes, everything very tasty. The interior is rather simple. (updated Aug 2022) 7 Shawarma (West of Metekhi Bridge on Kote Afkhazi St, just past the Spar). A delicious no-name shawarma joint nestled amongst the pricier tourist-oriented restaurants. 10 lari for a "small" (quite big) shawarma. (updated Oct 2022) 8 Fire Wok Dadiani, 20 Shalva Dadiani St. Nurse that hangover with some greasy Asian noodles. No seating. 10–15 lari for a noodle box. (updated Oct 2022) 9 Klike's Khinkali, 1 Shio Chitadze St. An excellent underground khinkali spot, popular among locals. 1–2 lari per dumpling. (updated Oct 2022)

Didube station 10 Joker Shaurma, Транспортная ул.4. delicious shawarma and tasty kebab. (updated Aug 2022)

Mid-range

Georgian cuisine

11 Dzveli Sakhli Restaurant (Old House), 3 Mtkvris Marjvena Sanapiro (on the Mtkvari River), ☏ +995 322 36 53 65. 12:00-24:00. Live traditional Georgian music and singing starts at around 18:00 every day, although it's also the perfect place for a quiet post-flea market weekend lunch. Stunning river-views and faux-rural atmosphere — enormous portions at relatively reasonable prices. Credit cards accepted. (updated Aug 2022) 12 Cafe Gabriadze, Shavtelis Qucha (Right off Baratashvili street, next to the puppet theatre). Formerly the trendy "Sans Souci," this artsy eatery (owned by master puppeteer Gabriadze) has reopened after a lengthy renovation period. With a quirkily bohemian decor and inve

Drink & nightlife

One is never far from a corner store opening late selling the bare essentials of life late into the night, which always include booze and bread. Georgia is known as the cradle of wine having produced wine since the neolithic period; and locals are very proud of this. Georgian wine was and still is the best in post-Soviet culture and there are many wine tasting shops in the upmarket areas of the city where wine culture is greatly respected. Try one of the famous wines from Kakheti or the other popular regions. It is possible to have a great night you may or may not remember for only 10 or 15 lari if you follow students to the cheaper bars where tourists are welcome, but you might be shortchanged a few lari. Nightlife tends to congregate north and northwest of the city centre; do your best to avoid the overpriced drinks in the old town. Also of note (especially for non-drinkers) is the famous Georgian "Laghidze Waters", sweet drinks based on soda and natural fruit and herb syrups, listed as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Georgia. There is a Laghidze Waters restaurant in Tbilisi selling the genuine article, but Natakhtari is quite similar and sold in corner shops all over.

Bars 1 Fabrika courtyard, 8 Egnate Ninoshvili St. A large courtyard filled with bars and cafes. Packed at night with locals and tourists alike. (updated Oct 2022) 2 Wine Factory N1, 1 Vasil Petriashvili Street. Another courtyard with numerous bars and restaurants, a bit lower key than Fabrika (updated Oct 2022) 3 Meoba Bar, 4 Constitution St. A hip cocktail joint, popular with locals and not bad on the prices. (updated Oct 2022) 4 Lolita, 7 Tamar Chovelidze St. Popular restaurant by day, cracking bar by night. (updated Oct 2022) 41 Gradus (41° Art of Drinks), 19 Galaktion Tabidze St (1.5 blocks south of Liberty Square). Small stylish cocktail bar serving their own creations. Slide the metal door to get downstairs. Cocktail 15 lari. (updated Jan 2019) Alibi Room, Akhvlediani, 20. Daily 18:00-03:00. Cheap bar well known (or infamous) among locals, attracts a young crowd and gets packed on Fridays, when things can get a bit rough; so it's not for the faint hearted. ' Chacha 1 lari, beer 2 lari. (updated Jan 2018) 5 Dublin, 8 Akhvlediani St (Metro Rustaveli), ☏ +995 32 98 44 67. until 03:00. Irish pub with live music from 20:00-00:00. Try the meat wrapped in bacon. 30 lari. 6 Over Bar, 5 Vashlovani St, ☏ +995 514 00 98 86. Cozy with lots of diverse drinks and bar snacks. 7 Gallery Café. A bar with DJs and live music for students and hip people. Retro and used look interior. Also cool

Sleep

Budget Due to the countless budget options, prices have dropped significantly in the city. Check out prices on the usual suspect websites and turn up on site stating the price; hostel owners will happily give you the online rate, so they can skip the fee they pay via such websites.

1 George Apartment, Intersection Tsinamdzgvrishvili Street ~53 and Giorgi Mazniashvili St, ☏ +995 593 52 76 51, [email protected]. Warm reception. Wifi. 2 Backpackers Hostel, no.11, Machabeli St. Old Tbilisi district (through the arch next to the olympic office), ☏ +995 32 293 44 72, [email protected]. Hostel in the old city, Kitchen, laundry services, common room. It is one of the cheapest places in town but has trouble with drifters. Dorms 8/18 lari in off-/high-season. (updated Nov 2017) 3 Boombully Rooms & Hostel, Rustaveli Ave. 24 (across from Opera House - Metro Rustaveli), ☏ +995 599 99 17 71, [email protected]. It's in historical downtown, near many city attractions and the Old town District, a block away from Prospero’s Books. The property is in a historical building with many green, eco-friendly and sustainable elements, like vintage and re-purposed furniture. The sign on the front of building for Boombully isn't the most noticeable, so watch the building addresses as you pass them. 4 Terrace Hostel Tbilisi, 11, Alexander Chavchavadze str. (from Metro Rustaveli near the Opera turn up the hill and go two blocks), ☏ +995 555 10 60 06, [email protected]. Friendly people, amazing view of the city, free wi-fi, possible airport transport for $20. king bed 75 lari. 5 Envoy Hostel, 45 Betlemi St (off Gorgasali Meidan, in the Old Town area - from Metro Freedom Square 0.8 km SE), ☏ +995 322 920111, [email protected]. Boasting a large terrace with a view of the city. Their staff speak excellent English and are very knowledgeable and helpful. Newly renovated and clean, it has a high ratio of bathrooms per beds. Breakfast is offered daily, although it will cost you 10 or so lari. Wi-fi, laundry service, tours, airport pick up and air conditioning, and central heating. Fox Hostel, 8 Ekaterine Gabashvili St (250 m from Metro Rustaveli), ☏ +995 595 15 57 11, [email protected]. Hostel with kitchen access, pets, fox motifs on the walls. 6 Hostel FreeStyle, 95 Dimitri Uznadze St, Chugureti (From Marjanishvili bridge, turn left through an archway. The hostel is on the right about halfway down the street. There is a painted sign "FreeStyle" on the door. Follow the courtyard all the way around the right and it's up a set of stairs. Bit hard to fi

Go next

It is worth mentioning that online prices and in-person prices for trips vary widely as of 2022. You can bargain hard or price shop for tours in the old town (there are several competing companies). The tour guide sales people are mostly students who work on commission and many will drop the price in order to make a sale. Competitive pricing for tours is around 2x Marshrutka prices (per person).

Within Georgia

Day trips Mtskheta – The old capital, and nearby is Jvari monastery. Marshrutka from Didube (1 lari), or take a tour (prices range from 30-120 lari per person). Rustavi – For a Soviet immersive experience, to the east. You'll be glad to come back. Unspoiled and 25 km, about half an hour by frequent marshrutkas from metro station "station square" (1.5 lari) yellow marshrutka no. 19.

East Not far east of Tbilisi is the beginning of the Kakheti region with various sights, including:

Telavi – Gateway to the close-by Alaverdi Monastery, Gurjaani (part of the wine route) and the mountain region of Tusheti Sighnaghi – A restored wine town with an extensive wall and close-by the popular Monastery of St. George at Bodbe (aka Bodbe Convent) David Gareja Monastery Complex – A 6th-century cave monastery, though not as impressive as Vardzia

North Gudauri – A popular ski resort about 120 km north Stepantsminda/Kazbegi – A great hiking and mountaineer destination with one of the highest mountains in Europe, Mount Kazbeg, and home to the spectacularly situated Gergeti Trinity Church. And along the way from Tbilisi the beautiful Ananuri Fortress Complex. Competitive day-tour price is 45 lari as of 2022. You can ask to be left there for an overnight stay at no extra cost.

West All sights are covered under the according region article and its cities, especially Rioni Region, Samtskhe-Javakheti and Northwestern Georgia. Some highlights:

Gori – Known for its Stalin cult and the close-by Uplistsikhe, a 3,600-year-old Silk Road cave city that was a major regional centre of Caucasian pagan religion. Borjomi – A resort town popular for its mineral well, the nearby Borjomi (Kharagauli) Nature Reserve, a hiking paradise, and Mtsvane Monastery (aka the Green Monastery). Bakuriani – A ski resort and scenic slow train trip destination from Borjomi. Vardzia – The best cave monastery to visit in Georgia, beyond Uplistsikhe and David Gareja. Mestia/Svaneti region – 10–12 hr away by bus, and the most famous mountain region in Georgia with the famous Svan Towers, glaciers, the authentic village Ushguli, as well as numerous hiking destinations Batumi – About 250 k