Taraz
Kazakhstan · Europe
About Taraz
Taraz is a city and the administrative center of Jambyl Region in Kazakhstan, located on the Talas (Taraz) River in the south of the country near the border with Kyrgyzstan. It had a population of 330,100 as of the 1999 census, up 9% from 1989, making it one of the fastest-growing cities in the country, after Astana and Turkistan. The current population of Taraz is 428,000 (April 2023).
One of the oldest cities in Kazakhstan and in Transoxania, built and populated by the ancient Sogdians, Taraz celebrated its official 2,000th anniversary (recognized by UNESCO) in 2001, dating from a fortress built in the area by a Xiongnu Chanyu named Zhizhi, and was a site of the Battle of Zhizhi in 36 BCE. The city was first recorded under the name "Talas" in 568 CE by Menander Protector. The medieval city of Talas was a major trade center along the Silk Road. It was later described by the Buddhist monk and traveler Xuanzang, who passed Talas in 629 and later wrote: "Traveling westward from the Thousand Springs 140 or 150 li, we come to the city of Daluosi. The city is 8 or 9 li in diameter; and was settled by Hu ("foreign, barbarian, non-Chinese") merchants from various nations. The products and the climate are about the same as Suyab." The Talas alphabet, a variant of the Turkic "runiform" Orkhon script, is named for the town.
Talas secured a place in history by virtue of the Battle of Talas (751 CE), which was fought between forces of the Chinese Tang dynasty and those of the Arab Abbasid Caliphate. The battle took place somewhere along the Talas River in the Talas valley. One of its indirect outcomes was the introduction of paper to the West, via the Arab capture of Chinese papermakers.
Taraz travel guide
Understand
Nowadays a near-border city between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, Taraz was once right in the heart of the Silk Road. Taraz first entered the history books over 2000 years ago when Han and Xiongnu forces warred here. The Soviets changed the name of the city to Zhambyl in the 1930s but soon after Kazakhstan's independence, the name was changed back to Taraz.
Getting there
1 Taraz Airport (DMB IATA). Also known as Jambyl Airport and Aulie-Ata Airport, this has flights from Almaty, Astana and Yekaterinburg. The two main carriers are Qazaq Air and SCAT Airlines. (updated Aug 2020) The high speed Talgo train goes from the capital Astana to Taraz and takes around 12 hours. There are several direct flights from Astana and Almaty to Taraz too. There's a low speed train from Almaty onto Shymkent. The Almaty-Saratov. Many other trains on the same line from the station south of the city. Bus 47 from the center. You can book tickets on tutu in advance. Traveling third class be ready for a crowded but friendly train. 2 Taraz railway station is 2 km south of town centre. The collective taxi station is north of the city with taxi to Bishkek and Shymkent.
Getting around
Local bus drivers were quite helpful and friendly. 70 tenges per ticket.
See
Zhengis Park. (updated Feb 2018) 1 Aisha Bibi Mausoleum, Aisha Bibi (18 km west of Taraz), ☏ +7 702 450 7717. It was built in the 11th or 12th century as a homage to the noble woman Aisha Bibi. The Kazakh government restored the mausoleum to its former glory in 2002. Free entry. (updated Feb 2018) Dautbek Shamansur Mausoleum. A mausoleum created by Genghis Khan to honor the Mongol governor ruling over the area, who was killed in an uprising. (updated Feb 2018) 2 Prezidentskiy Park (Presidential Park), Tole Bi St 95, ☏ +7 707 135 1099. The park is clean and maintained well with beautiful gardens as well as wide open spaces. A good place for an evening walk. (updated Feb 2018) Main square for monumental and flashy Kazakh urban architecture.
Do
1 Taraz Central Stadium, Tole Bi St, ☏ +7 702 712 8491. A multi-purpose stadium mostly used to hold football matches hosted by FC Taraz. Capacity 12,000.
Buy
Sunday Animal Market. Hundreds of sheep, goats and cattle are bought are sold. This noisy and chaotic experience is worth it and you will come across the welcoming and hospitable nature of Kazakh culture firsthand. (updated Feb 2018)
Eat
GolPas. Diverse dishes on offer. Pasta, pizza, seafood and steaks. Cozy atmosphere though a little expensive. (updated Feb 2018) 1 Malikakhon, 133 Keshenei St, ☏ +7 726 245 1025. Fresh and juicy shish kebabs and salad. The waiters do not speak English and at times the music in the background can get quite loud. (updated Mar 2018) SushiLove, Dinmukhamed Qonayev Street (Kunaeva/ Кунаева) 51 080000 (walk almost directly east along Kunaeva street from the southern corner of Zhenis Park for about 900 metres, SushiLove is on the right). Daily 11:00-02:00. Incongruous but charming sushi restaurant, popular with locals apparently. Nice garden out the back. Serves sushi, pizza, a good selection of drinks and dessert. Vegetarian and vegan sushi available. Friendly staff, some speak good English. Free open Wi-Fi. Cash, Visa, MasterCard all accepted. 800- 1,500 tenge for a whole roll of sushi. (updated Apr 2019)
Drink & nightlife
Churchill Pub, Komratova St., 94, ☏ +7 726 234 9575. Daily 12:00-02:00. English-style pub with a British-themed interior. (updated Feb 2018)
Sleep
Gostinitsa Lider is 500 m north of the railway station at Komratova 169. 1 Hotel Ark MS, Al Farabi 1 (corner of Tole Bi). Has spacious 24 rooms. The restaurant on the third floor serves European and Kazakh dishes. B&B double $30. (updated Sep 2024)
Go next
Venture southwest to Shymkent. Cross the border with Kyrgyzstan and see the impressive dam with a 15-meter-tall brutalist head of Lenin at Kirovskoe Reservoir. Almaty - Marshrutkas leave from the main Avtovokzal north-east of the city. A back seat in an 18-person marshrutka can cost as little as 2,500 tenge. Not likely less than this, but don't pay more than 3,000 tenge (Apr 2019). They take about 6 hours and arrive at Sayran station in Almaty. Buses stop once just past halfway, but only for a loo break, not food.
Overview adapted from Wikipedia, travel guide fromWikivoyage (CC BY-SA)。Photography via Wikimedia Commons.