Tallinn

Understand

On the shore of the Gulf of Finland, it is a city of over 450,000 inhabitants (2023). It is home to a third of the country's population, and is also the capital of Harju County in Northern Estonia. In a striking contrast to its Old Town, its immediate outskirts are filled with a cluster of modern office towers, with intermittent architectural monuments to the Soviet era. Further out, you will find a bewildering variety of historic and modern neighbourhoods, religious, civic, industrial and maritime heritage. This all provides for the city seeing very sizeable tourist traffic given its size, which in turn means the infrastructure is robust and extensive.

History

Tallinn is a historic city dating back to medieval times. The first fortress on Toompea was built around 1050 and Tallinn was possibly first recorded on a world map in 1154. In 1219, the city was conquered by Valdemar II of Denmark and it became a member of the Hanseatic League in 1285. The city, known as Reval at the time, prospered as a trading town in the 14th century, and much of Tallinn's historic centre was built at this time. Tallinn then became a pawn in the geopolitical games of its big neighbours, passing into Swedish hands in 1561 and then to the Russian Empire under Peter the Great in 1710. By World War I and the ensuing brief Estonian independence (starting 1918) Tallinn's population had reached 150,000. Estonia was occupied by the Soviet Union in 1940, conquered by Nazi Germany (1941–44), and then retaken by the Soviets. In World War II, the city was quite extensively bombed by the Soviets, although luckily the medieval town survived. The Soviet Union undertook a program of massive East Slavic migration, and just over 40% of Tallinn's current inhabitants are Slavic (compared to an average of 28% for the entire country). On 20 August 1991, Estonia declared independence and Tallinn became its capital once again.

Present day

Today Tallinn is a bustling, gleaming city. However, among the tall glassy buildings and corporate headquarters, Tallinn retains an inner charm seldom found elsewhere. Estonia considers itself a Northern European/Nordic country, with very close ethnic, linguistic and cultural ties to Finland and cultural ties to Scandinavia, and visiting Tallinn you will find a mix of at least three architectures in this very visual city—old Europe (the city walls with rustic buildings and charming living areas with well-preserved and colourful wooden houses of bourgeois taste of 1920s), Soviet brutalist (concrete apartment blocks), and modern Europe (including McDonald's ne

Getting there

By boat

All ferries dock at Reisisadam port, to the north of the centre. Tallink uses 1 Terminal D at the south-eastern side of the bay and Eckerö and Viking the 2 Terminal A/B at the northwestern side. Walking between the two terminals takes about 5 minutes over a pedestrian bridge crossing the marina. At Terminal A/B you can grab a useful free city map just before exiting the terminal. From there, tram 2 operates to the city centre (A. Laikmaa stop) and the intercity bus station (Bussijaam) in one direction, and to the train and regional bus station (Balti jaam stop) in the other direction. Or, you can take a leisurely 15-min walk toward the Old Town that is easily visible from the terminals. View a map of route 2. The walk from the port to the centre has improved a lot compared to the olden days as most of the developments along Sadama street have been completed, and the road crossings have been made more pedestrian-friendly.

From Helsinki The most common ferry route is from Helsinki, Finland to Tallinn Port, which has upwards of 20 departures daily. Depending on the ferry, journey time is 1½–3½ hours. Prices average €16–30 one way, depending on operator, season (summer costs more), day of week (Fridays and Saturdays cost more) and time of day (to Tallinn in the morning and back in the evening is popular and hence more expensive). Particularly popular are day cruises, which can go for as little as €19 return. All ferries also carry cars, from €25 one way. Bicycles can be taken for around €5 one way. Bikes on car ferries must go through vehicle check-in, which closes earlier than passenger check-in, so plan for extra time.

The following companies operate ferries between Tallinn and Helsinki:

Eckerö Line, ☏ +372 664 6000, [email protected]. Operates only one ship, the 2,000-passenger Finlandia (thrice daily, travel time 2½ hr). Often the cheapest fares. If you take the morning sailing to Tallinn and the evening sailing back you will have about eight hours in Tallinn. (updated Feb 2019) Tallink Silja, ☏ +372 640 9808, [email protected]. Up to 6 departures daily on large Shuttles Star and Superstar (2 hr). They also operate the MS Baltic Queen (3½ hr), a 2,800-passenger cruise ship for easy overnight stays in Tallinn. Discounts are available to Eurail pass holders. As this company has more departures you will have more flexibility planning your day trip. (updated Mar 2015) Viking Line. Large Viking XPRS ferry (2½ hr). Departs Helsinki midday and late in the evening. The day departure from Helsinki is very late (11:30) so on a cruise, you w

Getting around

The Old Town is best navigated on foot, not that you have much choice. A network of buses, trams and trolleybuses covers the rest of the city. There is an abundance of relatively cheap taxis. Before you jump in a random taxi car make sure you check the price on the window of the car. In Tallinn there are more than 20 taxi companies and some can be a rip-off.

By public transport

TLT operates frequent bus, trolley and tram services daily 06:00-23:59. Timetables and maps are available in English. Põhja-Eesti Public Transport Centre is a local authority which organizes public transport in Harju County, the province surrounding Tallinn. Public transport is cheaper in and around Tallinn than overland prices of the same distance. This is due to the zone structure of Tallinn. Thus, many sights even an hour away from Tallinn (e.g. Jägala Falls) are highly affordable, as long as they are within the zones. Information about zone boundaries and ticket prices are available. Public transport is free for residents of Tallinn. If you are not a resident, you'll need a ticket from the driver. The ticket price for each trip is €2. Note that no change will be given. It is possible also to use a contactless payment card (Mastercard, Maestro, Visa and Visa Electron) to buy a one-hour (60 min) ticket for €1.50, then you must use public transport front door. As you board a public transport vehicle, you will be required to validate your trip every time by swiping the payment card at the rectangular orange validators in the front of the vehicle. If you see a green light, your trip has been validated. The system tracks your daily usage and automatically bills your bank account for the cheapest ticket you are entitled to for the day, meaning the maximum you will pay in a single day for an unlimited amount of trips is the price of a one-day ticket (€4.50). Rechargeable "green card" (Ühiskaart), which is a brand new, cash-free, and smart way of payment. Use your card to touch a bright orange box every time you enter the bus: a single 1-hour ticket (€1.50, transfer allowed) will be charged automatically and on each day individual tickets will total until the price of the day ticket (€4.5) is reached (as of March 2020). Alternatively, the card can be charged for unlimited travel for 3 days, 5 days, or one month. Get this card from one of the abundant R-kiosks for €2, a refundable deposit which is only refundable in limited locations. Refund is available at the R-Kiosk of the Tallinn Airport, Old City Harbour Terminal A and D, Balti jaam and the service desk of bus station (details

See

The Tenet tour is a showcase of sets of the 2020 film Tenet. The Tallinn history tour is a walk through the city's long history.

Kesklinn (city centre)

Toompea Hill According to myth, the hill was built on top of the grave of legendary Estonian king Kalev, but more historically, its solid limestone and the site of the Danish castle that founded the city in 1219. Toompea was the home of the Danish and later Baltic German aristocracy and relations between the toffs and the plebs were often inflamed, which is why it's surrounded by thick walls and there's a gate tower (1380) guarding the entrance. Check out the viewpoints, some of which give great views over the city. There's also a cluster of amber (merevaik) shops around here (no Estonian origin but popular among cruise tourists).

1 Toompea Castle (Parliament of Estonia), Lossi plats 1A, ☏ +372 6316357, [email protected]. 10:00–16:00. Seat of Estonian Parliament (Riigikogu). The castle complex consists of several parts: the western wall and the towers of Tall Hermann, Pilsticker and Landskrone built by the Danes between 13th and 15th centuries; the classic style building of the government of the Estonian Governorate built 1767–1773 by the Russians, and the building of the Riigikogu from the 1920s. It's believed that already in the middle of the 11th century there was an ancient Estonian wooden fortress on the location. (updated Aug 2021) 2 Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, Lossi plats 10, ☏ +372 644 3484, [email protected]. A classic onion-domed Russian Orthodox church, built 1894–1900, during the Russification period when Estonia was part of the Russian Empire. In 1928, when Estonia was independent, it was argued that the church is a symbol of oppression and architecturally non-suitable, therefore should be demolished. But it survived also the Soviet times, and now is used by the Estonian Orthodox Church of Moscow Patriarchate. 3 St. Mary's Cathedral (Tallinna toomkirik), Toom-Kooli 6, ☏ +372 644 4140, [email protected]. The oldest church in Tallinn, built as a Catholic church in 1229, but renovated and expanded many times since then. It became a Lutheran church in 1561. 4 Stenbock House (Stenbocki Maja), Rahukohtu 3. Today, the Stenbock House is the seat of Estonia's government, but it was built as a courthouse in late 18th century, at the behest of the erstwhile Russian authorities. The Russian treasury eventually found itself unable to pay for the building, so the Count Stenbock, who erected the edifice, was left with it as his personal residence. The treasury was only able to buy it more th

Do

1 Medieval Days (Keskaja Päevad), Raekoja plats (in the Old Town), ☏ +372 660 4772, +372 518 7812 (Estonian Folk Art and Handicraft Union), +372 5364 8854 (Costume rental), [email protected]. July. Come and experience the medieval atmosphere of the historic Hanseatic City! You can find workshops and market with traders, participate in tours and witness exciting tournaments. 2 Kultuurikatel (creative hub), Põhja pst 27a, ☏ +372 56 2011 15. A former industrial site, it now Tallinn's main creative hub, site of many events (see website). (updated Oct 2018) 3 Energy Discovery Centre (for youngsters), Põhja pst 29, ☏ +372 620 9020, [email protected]. Daily 12:00–18:00, public holidays 12:00–17:00. (updated Jul 2020) 4 PROTO Invention Factory (PROTO Avastustehas), Peetri 10, ☏ +372 627 6661. Indoor amusement park where amusements take place with the help of VR glasses. (updated Jun 2021) 5 Kalev Spa, Aia 18, ☏ +372 649 3300. One of the largest water parks in Northern Estonia. (updated Jun 2021) 6 Atlantis H2O Aquapark, Randvere tee 11, Viimsi (Buses 1A, 114, 174), ☏ +372 666 7045, [email protected]. The water park has several fun water equipment: a wave pool, a flow pool and eight different slides, the longest of which is over 120 m. For toddlers, there is a separate area with two smaller slides, a climbing area and a 0.20-m-deep swimming pool. 7 Vembu-Tembumaa, Keskuse tee 2, Kurtna, Saku (Bus 219, 2 km walk from Kiisa railway station), ☏ +372 671 9155, [email protected]. The oldest and largest amusement park for the whole family. €18.

Beaches

A flag system that regulates swimming. A green flag means it is safe swim, a yellow flag means you can swim, but it isn't recommended and a red flag means swimming is not advised, go in at your own risk.

8 Pirita Beach (Pirita rand) (take bus 1A, 8, 34A or 38. to stop "Pirita", or walk by the sea 5 km northeast of centre). A large sandy beach which in summer is full of locals and tourists. 9 Stroomi Beach (Stroomi rand, Pelgurand) (take bus 40 to stop "Supelranna"). The water is clean and warm, and it is the gay friendliest beach of Tallinn. 10 Lake Harku (Harku järv) (take trolley 6, 7 or bus 16, 36 to stop "Väike-Õismäe"). Small lake that draws a lot of people. The lake gets dirtier by the year and swimming is not always recommended. Watch out for the vipers on the shore! 11 Kakumäe beach (Bus 21 from Balti jaam (where the trains arrive), bus 21A from Väike-Õismäe. Stop Landi (21) or Sooranna tee (21A & 21B); from Landi stop keep walking (1 km) until Sooranna tee stop, there you'll find helpful signs)

Buy

Tallinn may be cheap compared to other major European cities, but it is no longer the bargain deal it once was. Though not overtly touristy, it is much more expensive than the rest of the country. If you come here for an authentic Estonian and inexpensive experience, this is the wrong place. Prices can be comparable to Munich and Milan.

Department stores & shopping malls 1 Viru Keskus, Viru väljak 6. 09:00-21:00. In and around the landmark Viru hotel, it is very busy as the bus terminal is below this mall. It is still in walking distance from the port but serves tourists and locals as well. 2 Foorum Keskus, Narva maantee 5. 3 Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. Opened in 1960, this is the grand old department store of Tallinn. Unsurprisingly a lot has changed since the Soviet times. 4 Melon Kaubanduskeskus, Estonia puiestee 1/3, ☏ +372 630 6500.

5 Stockmann, Liivalaia 53, ☏ +372 633 9539. Part of the Finnish department store chain, here since 1996. Close to the port and popular with Finnish tourists. 6 Rocca al Mare kaubanduskeskus (take bus 8/41/41B/42 from the center), ☏ +372 6659 345, [email protected]. M-Sa 10:00-21:00, Su 10:00-19:00. A few kilometres west of the old town along Paldiski maantee. Consists of a Prisma hypermarket and tens of smaller, mostly fashion boutiques. Also restaurants. (updated Dec 2024) 7 Ülemiste Keskus (near the airport; take tram 4 or bus 2 to Ülemiste linnak). 8 Kristiine Keskus, Endla tn 45 (Take trolleybus 3 or bus 21, 23 or 42), ☏ +372 665 9100, [email protected]. One of Estonia's biggest malls with dozens of clothing and shoe outlets, nearly 20 cafés and restaurants, and countless other shops and services. 9 Rotermanni Kvartal. Rotermann's Quarter is a downtown shopping area with clothing and department stores and restaurants between Viru Keskus, Tallinn port and the Old Town. If you are walking from the harbor towards Viru Väljak the quarter is on your left hand side. One place to find bargain clothes is the Rotermann Kaubamaja situated right at Mere Puiestee. The Kaubamaja also has a combined cafe and restaurant on the third floor which seems to be surprisingly empty even as they have reasonable prices.

Boutiques and souvenirs For boutiques and souvenirs, your best choice is Viru street in the Old Town and its side streets. There are many stalls selling traditional items like woolen pullovers, crystal and amber. Be prepared to bargain in order to get a reasonable price, however bargaining is only accepted at some places. Even though Baltic amber and Russian matryoshka dolls are widely available in souvenir b

Eat

The Old Town is packed with restaurants claiming to offer authentic Estonian food, particularly on and around Raekoja plats. Prices at restaurants near the Raekoja Plats are generally more expensive, yet offer the same quality of food, as restaurants off this main square. Prices are steep by Estonian standards, but still much cheaper than neighbouring Helsinki, which explains why on weekends they're always packed with day tripping Finns.

Budget

In the Old Town 1 Maiasmokk, Pikk 16, ☏ +372 64 64 079, [email protected]. Mostly 09:00–21:00. The oldest still operating café in Tallinn, dating back to 1864. Coffee, tea, chocolate and various sweet and savoury pastries at quite cheap prices. Spacious with stylish decor. Next door is the Maiasmokk confectionery shop, which sells good quality Estonian chocolates. (updated May 2022) 2 Pub Kompressor, Rataskaevu 3. Very tasty and varied pancakes. There are also other dishes. Fantastic place with great food and drinks, especially kvass! (updated May 2022) 3 III Draakon, Raekoja plats. If you'd like to scoop nostalgia. Very interesting to eat in a special way. They have a small menu to offer but very good and very typical. The waitress plays at having the character of a sour waitress but with humor. A memorable experience. (updated May 2022) 4 Pizza Grande, Väike-Karja 6a. Very cozy place. Delicious pizza, affordable prices, pleasant service. Great environment. (updated May 2022)

Near the Old Town 5 Loca, Tatari 1, Tallinn (Located near Vabaduse väljak, right next to Söögiplats), ☏ +372 555 15 235. 11:00-07:00. Pizza, falafel, hummus, soup, beer. Fast food joint with wild staff and increasing customer service. €3-8.

Around the market Balti Jaama Turg 6 F-hoone, Telliskivi 60a/F, ☏ +372 5322 6855, [email protected]. M-Sa 9-24, Su 9-22; kitchen closes 1 hr earlier. Used to be an industrial hall, now made a great bistro/bar which tends to become very busy in the evenings (book if you can, but as it's big you might well be lucky and find the one spare table. Good value for price. (updated May 2022)

East of the old town around the Coca-Cola Plaza 7 Kohvik Narva, Narva mnt 10, ☏ +372 6601786. M-F 08:30-20:00, Sa 10:00-20:00, Su 10:00-18:00. Cafe Narva long boasted an old-style interior preserved from the Soviet area; today's chic interior seems questionably authentic. Ladies at the counter are somewhat brusque (still) and mostly Russian-speaking, although this should not prevent you from enjoying traditional food of Soviet workers as well as delicious pastries baked on the premises. Cake per kg €8.50-12, p

Drink & nightlife

Cafés There are plenty of nice cafés, especially in the centre. Among the interesting ones:

1 Café Mademoiselle (Kohvik Mademoiselle), Toompuiestee 27 / Paldiski mnt 4 (in the Kelmiküla district; at the Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel), ☏ +372 62 88 155, [email protected]. Daily 08:00–22:00. A café with the high quality confectionery products. (updated Jun 2023) 2 Wabadus Kohvik (Café Wabadus), Vabaduse väljak 10, ☏ +372 6604019. M-Th 9-23; F 9-1; Sa 11-1, Su 11-22. located just next to the freedom square, this café has good drinks as well as dishes. The interior is a great blend of classical styles of prior decades with the modern times. (updated Oct 2018)

Nightlife

Tallinn's crazy nightlife is out of proportion to the city's small size. The days of armed mafiosos are over and these days any drunken fights tend to involve stag parties. Exercise some caution in choosing your venue, as some strip clubs and regular clubs make their money by fleecing tourists who come in for a drink. In local places, beers cost €2.50-4.

Bars and pubs

In old town (vanalinn) 3 Beer House, Dunkri 5. Plenty of beers to choose from in this large authentically styled and decorated Bavarian Beer hall, including 5 of their own beers made on site. Try the Medovar Honey beer. 4 The Dubliner, Suur Karja 18, [email protected]. 11:00-midnight (03:00 at the weekend). Popular Irish pub on one of the nightlife axes. Attracts younger people and is relatively new, so no pub crawlers puke in front of the door. 5 Drink Baar, Väike Karja 8, ☏ +372 644 9433. Su-Th 12:00-23:00, F Sa 12:00-03:00. The widest selection of beers of any pub in town including many quality imports from Brewdog and Mikkeller. Good English-style pub-grub, featuring award winning fish and chips. Monthly comedy nights from the "Comedy Estonia" and quiz nights.

6 Hell Hunt, Pikk 39. The name means "the gentle wolf" in Estonian. A comfortable and homey pub in the Old Town and offers a wide selection of beers (including two of their own brews) and some pretty decent food. Don't miss the spare ribs. 7 Helsinki Karaoke Baar, Viru 18, ☏ +372 641 6164, [email protected]. Su–Th 13:00–01:00, F 13:00–03:00, Sa 10:00–03:00. A legendary gathering place for Finns. This bar, also known as Lokaal Helsinki, is a popular destination for both locals and tourists who crave a cozy atmosphere and Finnish music. 8 Kuku klubi, Vabaduse väljak 8. Founded 1935 by local art community and claiming to have had the best accessible cuisine in the former USSR since 1958 during the Russian occupation.

Sleep

Budget

Hostels 1 16EUR Hostel, Roseni 9 (Old Town), ☏ +372 501 3046, [email protected]. Dorm bed: from €10; Single: €16-25. 2 Alur Hostel, Lai 20 (Old Town), ☏ +372 646 6210, [email protected]. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. Friendly staff, small kitchen and large common room. Wi-Fi available in all of the rooms. Dorm bed: from €9. 3 Euphoria, Roosikrantsi 4 (Old Town), ☏ +372 5837 3602, [email protected]. The place with a character. Painted walls, daily events, workshops and unplugged concerts make this place different from other hostels. A must stay for artistic spirits. Friendly staff and free Wi-Fi. As of 2018, this hostel closes during the winter season. Dorm bed: from €9. 4 Fat Margeret's, Põhja puiestee 27 (north-east border of Old Town), ☏ +372 510 0916, [email protected]. Hostel with a big living room, kitchen and a lot of clean toilets and showers. Free Wi-Fi. Bed from €10. 5 Flying Kiwi Backpackers, Nunne 1 (Old Town), ☏ +372 5821 3292, [email protected]. 20 beds 6 GIDIC Backpackers, 31 Tartu Mnt (Just outside Old Town), ☏ +372 646 6016. Australian-owned. 7 Zinc Old Town Hostel, Väike-Karja 1 (Old Town), ☏ +372 5781 0173. Changed owner a couple of times and also the name but still on the same place. Clean, friendly and flexible staff. (updated Oct 2018) 8 Knight House, Rüütli 18 (Old Town), ☏ +372 5550 1001, [email protected]. Hotel quality accommodation at hostel prices. Hostel occupies a house that is over 600 years old, with the centre of the Old Town just out the door. Fully equipped kitchen, common area, free Wi-Fi, free tea and coffee. Dorm bed: from €7; Single: €16-25. 9 Monk's Bunk, Tatari 1 (Old Town), ☏ +372 636 3924, [email protected]. Even booking a place here online (either through the well known suspects or their own website), does not mean they have accommodation available. They are unreliable with regards to updating the status of their beds. So, better not have this stress and book somewhere else. Dorm from €11. 10 Old House Hostel, Uus 26, ☏ +372 6411 281, [email protected]. A very nice, friendly and stylishly decorated hostel in the northern part of the Old Town, very near to the centre of Tallinn. The staff speak excellent English. The rooms are good enough to pass for hotel rooms, but have no private bathrooms. No restaurant, and no breakfast provided - you cook your own food or dine elsewhere in Tallinn. Free Internet connection available for hostel guests. Double rooms from €30. 11 Tallinn Backpackers, Olevimägi 11 (Old Town), ☏ +372 644 0298, [email protected]. Includes a

Go next

Maardu – A neighboring town 15 km east. Jägala Falls – 20 km east, is Estonia's largest waterfall. Lahemaa National Park – About 50 km east, a place to find some nice forests, coast, swamps, beautiful bogs, and 4 interesting manors. Good for a day trip or even hikes with overnighting at the park. Soomaa National Park – About 60 km south and second largest national park in Estonia, known for its swamps and bogs (Soomaa means "land of bogs" in Estonian), and its "fifth season". Surprisingly, swimming is popular there and is said to rejuvenate the skin. Kaberneeme – A village about 40 km east on the coast. The village has a 2 km long beach area with pine tree forests edging right up to the shore. Viljandi – A beautiful, ancient and hilly city, known for its annual Viljandi Folk Music Festival, beautiful old town and overwhelming and picturesque park around the old castle. Tartu – 2 hr by car, 2 hr 30 min by bus, south east. Museum-rich and hanseatic city on the banks of the Emajõgi River. Also, Estonia's second-largest and oldest city, intellectual hub famous for its universities, and a lively student city. Paldiski – 40 km west, this former Soviet closed city is a great place to see remains of Soviet military and industrial infrastructure. Hop on the ferry and you are in Helsinki, Finland in 2 hours. Remember to bring your passport (for citizens of the European Union a national ID card will suffice). There are convenient long-distance busses that travel in four hours to Riga, Latvia. Especially those by Lux Express have seats similar to airplane seats, including screens for watching media.