Tainan

Understand

Located on the southwestern coast of the country, it has had a complicated past, first starting as a Dutch colony before passing to the Ming loyalist general Koxinga, the Qing Dynasty, Japanese occupiers and then into Kuomintang hands. This rich history and heady mix of traditional folk culture gives Tainan far more character than the bigger Taiwanese cities, and is a good contrast to the international Taipei.

History

Modern Taiwan can trace its beginnings to Tainan. Tainan (and the start of a non-agrarian Taiwan) began in 1624 when the Dutch East India Company set up a colonial base in Anping District (安平區 Ānpíng qū). The island of Formosa was strategically placed along major trade routes, and so the Dutch were keen to start building up a trading post and fort known as Fort Zeelandia. They were soon besieged by Ming loyalists led by Koxinga (known in Chinese as Zheng Chenggong), and their surrender ended 38 years of Dutch colonial rule, bringing Taiwan under Chinese influence. However, Koxinga's own rule was similarly short-lived as he died four months after the takeover, yet he lives on as a local folk hero and religious icon of sorts. His grandson gave up control to the Qing dynasty, and Tainan was made the capital of Taiwan County of Fujian Province. However, Tainan, and Taiwan as a whole continued to be a Chinese backwater until the Second Opium War in 1858 forced the reopening of Anping port to foreigners, with British merchants stimulating growth in the city. Tainan lost its status as capital after Taiwan was granted provincial status in 1887, with the Qing government deciding to set up the provincial capital in Taipei instead.

Upon secession of Taiwan to Japan after the Sino-Japanese War in 1895, city leaders tried to declare independence (perhaps the first attempt at formal self-governance) although that failed and anti-Japanese sentiment grew into the Tapani Incident in 1915, when Aboriginal and Han Chinese fighters stormed several police stations in Tainan county. The armed uprising was brutally crushed, marking a turning point in relations between the local population and their occupiers as Japan enacted policies designed to assimilate the Taiwanese into the Japanese Empire, including by encouraging them to adopt Japanese names and Shinto religious practices. Modern infrastructure and urban planning transformed Tainan, befitting the largest Taiwanese settlement at the time. The odd impressive colonial building can still be found around the city, standing out against other less inspiring post-war architecture. After Japan withdrew from Ta

Getting there

By plane For flight options beyond the Taiwan Strait, the closest international airport is in Kaohsiung. From there you can take a train, bus, taxi, or rental car for a 45-minute to one-hour journey to Tainan. Flying into Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport is also another choice, and you don't have to go into Taipei proper and can just take the HSR train (1½ hours and NT$1350) from Taoyuan.

1 Tainan Airport (TNN IATA). This airport has largely diminished in traffic after the high-speed rail was built, but Uni Air has daily flights to the outlying islands of Kinmen (50 min) and Penghu (30 min). International flights from Hong Kong (90 min) are run six times a week by China Airlines. It is a cheap taxi ride from the city centre, and also reachable by the local bus number 5. The airfield is shared with the Republic of China Air Force, so the airport terminal is far enough from the runways to require shuttle buses in between. Flight schedules may vary depending on military exercises.

By train

2 Tainan HSR Station is a major stop on the Taipei - Kaohsiung High Speed Rail. Travel time is about 1 hr 45 min from Taipei, and about NT$1500 one way. The station is about 10 km southeast of the city center in a newly developed area surrounded by shopping malls. To get to the city center:

Hire a taxi, about NT$400. Two free shuttle bus routes run from the HSR station into the city: one to Tainan City Hall, and another to Chi Mei Medical Center. Take the TR (local train) from Shalun TR Station (linked to the THSR station) to Tainan TR Station in the city center, NT$37 each way. TR trains run roughly every 30 minutes, from 06:00 to 00:00. 3 Tainan TR Station is served by regional trains, Taiwan Railway (TR). Trains from Taipei can take 3½-6 hours depending on the type of the train. For example, a class 1 (4 hours) ticket from Taipei will cost NT$758. On the Southern line, trains run frequently to Kaohsiung (1 hour and NT$70-100), to Taitung (3 hours and about NT$500) and, less frequently, to Hualien.

By bus Tainan has good inter-city bus connections with other cities in Taiwan. Most of the bus companies have offices on Beimen Rd, north of Tainan Train Station.

4 Tainan Bus Station (臺南轉運站), 291 Gongyuan Rd, North District (next to Tainan Park), ☏ +886 6 220 1519. 08:00-20:00. A medium-sized terminal with toilets, water fountains, tourist information, 7-Eleven, other shops, and orange luggage lockers (NT$40-60/3 hr). From Taipei NT$450-455 (~4-hr trip). (updated Jul 2024) Ubus. Arriving buses may also stop at Yongkang (near Queena Plaza Hotel Tainan), Li

Getting around

On foot Tainan is problematic for pedestrians. Unlike Taipei, most of the sidewalk is essentially privatised, being an extension of the shops and restaurants behind it. The sidewalks are frequently blocked by various materials belonging to buildings behind it, requiring pedestrians to walk on the roads and take their chances with the cars and motorcycles. Pedestrian crossings might even be blocked by traffic. If you’re disabled, it might be safer not to go around by walking.

By bus

All inner city bus routes pass through Tainan TR Station. There is a tourist information booth at the station with friendly staff (English speaking) who can show you how to use the bus system. On weekends and holidays, there are two free sightseeing bus routes (88 and 99) which can take you to and back from all the major historical sites but with low frequency (usually hourly and only 09:00-18:00 approximately). Be careful when getting on buses at Tainan Train Station, because they stop at two different places depending on which direction they're going. The direction is not obvious unless you read the sign or ask the driver, so make sure not to get on going the wrong way! The transit cards (Easycard) from Taipei and Kaohsiung can be used on the buses. Many bus stops have electronic displays to tell you when the next bus is coming. Google Maps have (delayed) live update on bus location and are extremely useful. Bus+ is a local app that updates bus location faster.

By taxi or rideshare If you do take a taxi just make sure you have a map you can point at or the business card of your destination. The taxi drivers are very helpful, but sometimes even Chinese speakers take roundabout ways. Uber is widely used by taxi drivers and private cars alike. There are other local apps like Line Taxi and 55688 but they require a local phone number.

By motorcycle There is a scooter rental shop next to Tainan TR station. Rentals cost around NT$600 per 24 hours. Whether a rental shop will check for a license varies from shop to shop. There are thousands of scooters and motorbikes packing the streets and if you injure someone while you are driving in Taiwan, the local laws require you to pay for whatever the person you injured cannot. Try getting your insurance company to write a waiver for you to be insured before driving in Taiwan. With a registered motorcycle license, you can also rent GoShare, WeMo, Zocha, or iRent motorcycles in Tainan.

By bicycle Bicycle travel is possible but dangerous for a tourist who has to deal with the various obstacles emerging in the road spaces, whi

See

At first glimpse, Tainan may seem all gray buildings with an alarming number of scooters, but thankfully it doesn't take long to discover its charms. Historical buildings and temples are mostly found in three main clusters: near Chihkan Tower and on Zhongzheng Road, which used to be within old city walls during the Qing Dynasty, and in Anping District.

Historical sites

1 Anping Tree House (安平樹屋 (Ānpíng shù wū)), 108 Fort St., Anping District. Daily 08:30-17:00. Anping Tree House was built as the warehouse of Tait & Co. During the Japanese occupation it was the office and warehouse of the Japan Salt Company. After World War II, the salt industry in Anping declined, and this area was abandoned. Over time, the aerial roots and branches of banyan trees wrapped around the building. Combined with the soil, red brick and partial concrete wall, this creates an unusual sight and is a popular tourist attraction. There is also a sky bridge behind with a view of Yanshui estuary. NT$70 for Tait&co merchant house, Anping tree house, and Zhu Jiu-Ying Residence, NT$35 for students with ID. (updated Jul 2024)

2 Chihkan Tower (Fort Provintia / 赤崁樓 / Chìkàn Lóu), 212 Sec. 2, Min-Tsu Rd., Central District. Daily 08:30-21:30. Chihkan Tower is the landmark of Tainan and its most famous historic site. In 1653 the Dutch built Fort Providenti in the area, and the Chinese named it Tower of Savages or Tower of Red-haired Barbarians. Even though Chihkan Tower has survived different historical periods, with part of it turned into a temple to the sea god, it retains its rich and graceful architectural aspects. Crammed with various kinds of steles, statues and ponds with colorful fish and nine stone tortoises carrying royal stele carved in Chinese and Manchurian, the courtyard looks like an outdoor museum. Chihkan Tower is particularly attractive at night. NT$70. (updated Apr 2023) 3 Eternal Golden Fortress (億載金城 (Yì Zài Jīnchéng)), 16 Nanwen, Anping District. Daily 08:30-17:00. A 19th-century coastal fortress, it was built during the Qing dynasty and armed with cannons to defend against the threat of Japanese invasion. Bricks from the remains of Fort Zeelandia were used during the fort's construction. The squarish fort feels like a very big park inside of its thick walls and gate tunnel and a visit will take not much more than 5 minutes. Paddle boats are available for rent in the moat surrounding the fort. There are sometimes musical events and performances in the evening. NT$70. (updated Apr 2023) 4 Anping Fort (Fort Zeelandia / 安平古堡 (Ānpíng Gǔbǎo)). Daily 08:30–17:30. In the e

Do

1 Tainan Park (台南公園), GongYuan North Rd. Beautiful park in a central part of the city. Great for a relaxing walk or a stay of a few hours. It has many beautiful trees, flowers and a pond. 2 Uni-President Lions Baseball, Tainan Municipal Baseball Stadium. Baseball games in Taiwan are lively and light-hearted with a lot of chanting and cheering in unison. Beer and barbecues are even allowed in the bleachers. Stadiums are divided into home and away crowd, infield or outfield. Wear green and orange to blend in with the home crowd. The team does travel between stadiums for games, so check the CPBL schedule. The season runs from March to June and July to September. NT$150-300. (updated Jan 2016) 3 Sicao Lushe Tunnel (Sicao Green Tunnel; 四草綠色隧道), 360 Dazhong Rd, Annan District. Found in Taijiang National Park, there are two boat rides to observe the marine life and migrant birds of a mangrove swamp reserve. The rare black-faced spoonbill can be seen here. The shorter route takes about 30 minutes, while the longer one is about 70 minutes. Queues are roughly the same time as the boat rides, and weekday boat schedules only run a few times per day. NT$150-200. (updated Jan 2016) Yanshui Beehive Fireworks Festival, 87 Wumiao Rd., Yanshui Dist., Tainan City. 15th day of the first lunar month. Meant to chase off evil spirits, fireworks are piled into a structure resembling a beehive and set off at street level, which makes it a racuous celebration that requires full-face helmets and fire-retardant jackets for participation. (updated Nov 2025)

Buy

The areas around Zhongshan Road, Beimen Road, and the train station make up the downtown of Tainan. South of the main train station is where you can find various boutique stores that mainly focuses on Japanese fashion and sport equipment stores (a popular place to visit for local students).

Traditional streets 1 Anping Old Street (安平老街). A street lined with stands selling snacks, drinks, souvenirs, and even medicinal herbs. Preserved plums (酸梅 suānméi) are a popular item. Other specialties include shrimp cakes and dried fruit. (updated Dec 2019) 2 Fuzhong Street. 3 Shennong Street (神農街).

Department stores 4 Far-East Department Store (遠東百貨 台南公園店), 60 Gongyuan Rd. The department store focuses more on midrange consumers. Downstairs food-court offers good selection of restaurants and Hong Kong-based supermarket Wellcome. 5 Hayashi Department Store (林百貨), 55 Zhongyi Rd Sec. 2. Taiwan's oldest department store. On its opening in 1932, the building boasted a then state-of-the-art elevator, which still works. It was bombed during World War II and still has bullet marks to show on the rooftop, next to its Shinto shrine. Located on what was once the richest shopping street in Tainan, the site fell into disuse following the defeat of Japan and the end of World War II until restoration of its elegant interior was completed in 2014. It is now a boutique department store selling Japanese and Taiwanese food and handicrafts. 6 Shinkong Mitsukoshi (新光三越), 162 Zhongshan Rd. The department store focuses on both high end products and mainstream fashion. Luxurious brands such as Chanel, Hermes, Ferragamo can be found in the department store. Men's fashion includes Calvin Klein, Hugo Boss, Polo Ralph Lauren, Nautica, Esprit and more. There's also a movie theater inside. Two food courts offer various Asian, western cuisine and fast food chains. There is also a newer, more modern Shinkong Mitsukoshi at 658 Ximen Rd Section 1.

Eat

Tainan is often known as "the City of Snacks" (小吃城). In addition to the wide variety of food available at night markets, the city also has an abundance of street vendors specializing in tasty and cheap dishes. Oysters in particular, are favored in Tainan, from the long association with Anping port. Try the oyster omelette (蚵仔煎 kèzǎijiān / o-a chen), and oysters and thin noodles (蚵仔麵線 kèzǎi miànxiàn / o-a mi soa~) which are cooked differently from those up north. Danzai noodles (擔仔麵 dānzǎi miàn) should not be missed either. Coffin toast (棺材板 guāncaibǎn), fried bread stuffed with various ingredients, such as chicken, beans, seafood, vegetables and milk-based sauces, was also invented here. The area around Tainan is also known for producing high quality beef, so be sure to try some beef soup while you are here.

Night markets

There are over two dozen night markets of various sizes in and around the city. Regardless of size, night markets all possess an abundance of stalls selling clothing, shoes, jewelry, toys, food and drink. Some even have live entertainment. Most night markets are only held on certain days of the week. Check before going.

1 Garden Night Market (花園夜市 huāyuán yèshì), Haian Road, Sec. 3, between Lixian Rd and Hewei Rd. Open on Th Sa Su. The biggest and most famous open-air night market, there are tons of food stalls and game booths set up in a gigantic parking lot. This market can get very busy (i.e. mosh pit busy) on some days. (updated Jan 2016) 2 Da Dong Night Market (大東夜市 dà dōng yèshì), Linsen Rd, Sec. 1. Open on M Tu F. Very popular among the local university students, especially on Friday nights. (updated Jan 2016) 3 Wu Sheng Night Market (武聖夜市 wǔ shèng yèshì), Lane 69, Wusheng Road, West Central District. Open on W Sa. While also popular for its food, this night market stands out for its carnival-style games. (updated Mar 2020)

Local specialties Some local specialties include beef soup, milkfish soup, eel noodles, and a kind of rice pudding (碗稞 wǎnkē). Don't forget to try the shrimp rolls (zhou-shi) down along the canal.

4 Du Hsiao Yueh (度小月), 16 Zhongzheng Road. A famous purveyor of dan zai mian (擔仔麵), also known as peddlers' noodles because it was made to be sold by fishermen on the roadside. It's a small dish of noodles in pork-shrimp broth, decorated with a single shrimp and delicately balanced with a dash of garlic on top. This is the original branch, and they have opened more stores elsewhere in the country, including one on Yongkang St in Taipei and another in Taoyuan International Airport. 5 A Xia Restaurant (阿霞飯店),

Drink & nightlife

There aren't many shiny modern nightspots in Tainan; the city delights in retro bars instead, leveraging on its history and countless number of traditional houses to give an intimate, laidback feel. A smattering of Mandarin or Taiwanese will open more doors in terms of nightlife, otherwise it would be easier to stick to expat hangouts where the owners speak English. Some of the bars provide taxi service if you get too drunk. Pearl milk tea (珍珠奶茶, zhēnzhū nǎichá), also known as bubble tea, is a must drink in Tainan. Look out for shops where it is made directly to order! The Hanlin Tea House (翰林茶館) is one of two claimants to having invented the drink. Fruit drinks and desserts are always refreshing in the sticky summer heat too.

Local bars 1 Bar TCRC, 117 Hsinmei St. A bar hidden in a little side alley, but probably one of the busiest in Tainan. They don't have any menus, with drinks made on request, though the standard cocktails are happily made strong. (updated Dec 2015) Taikoo, 94 Shennong St. 2 Speakeasy Bar (赤崁中藥行), ☏ +886 62219599. Opens 20:00. This newest creation of renowned bar entrepreneur Shorty Wu is on the east side alley way of Chikan street lane 45. Reservations are almost mandatory as it is very popular. English-speaking staff. The 'Sampler' is a beautiful array of several of their famous cocktails. Why come here with so many cocktail bars around? The atmosphere is done perfectly. Good food also served. (updated Mar 2023) 3 The Secret (海登CBC酒吧), Next door to the Speakeasy Bar 700台南市中西區赤嵌街 45巷6號, ☏ +886 916308806. What are the chances to have two of the best bars next to each other? This bar starts with a different but equally exceptional atmosphere that combines a lounge feel with a long bar that's great for meeting people, having an upscale London and izakaya Japan feel. Anyone traveling in a group of 3 or fewer that want to meet others would do well to come here, and for larger groups it is a great place to hang out in the cushy lounge area towards the back. The owner Ben is frequently there. Excellent cocktails. (updated Mar 2023)

Western bars 4 Yongfu Mansion (永福邸). It's not Western because it is an almost near-replica on a famous bar in Shanghai, but that original place was in the French Concession and is styled as such. Unique and outstanding atmosphere that takes you back to 1920s expat life in the Pearl of the Orient. The other endeavor of Shorty Wu in Tainan, this bar captures both a cozy darkness and a light energy. Outstanding cocktails and English-speaking staff. (updated Mar 2023) Dirty Roger, Dongmen Rd. (close to th

Sleep

The local heritage and religious festivals of Tainan mostly draws only domestic tourists, so weekends, Taiwanese public holidays and school vacations are particularly busy for hotels. There aren't the masses of Chinese tour buses that crowd touristy Jiufen or Sun Moon Lake, so Tainan is a good place to be if you happen to be in Taiwan during the Golden Weeks in January/February or October. Staying near the train station or Chihkan Tower may help simplify public transport as they are easy landmarks and most buses stop at either place.

Budget 1 Guest House Hamuya (Tainan Guest House), No. 39, Alley 20, Lane 158, Section 2, Zhongyi Road (忠義路二段158巷20弄39號) ("Alley 20" is vertical to "Lane 158", which is vertical to Zhongyi Road. No. 39 is the vertical alley right before No. 41.), ☏ +886 6 2211239, +886 973713482, [email protected]. This is a guest house of a nice and relaxed Taiwanese-Japanese couple. The toilet is a little weird next to the kitchen and only separated by a curtain, if this bothers you. But the rest is authentic and friendly. FB. Dorm NT$500/bed, even during weekends. (updated Nov 2017) 2 Guang Hwa Hotel (光華商務飯店), 155 Beimen Rd Sec 1 (near the train station), ☏ +886 6 226-3171, [email protected]. Check-out: 11:00. Free internet and breakfast. Double from NT$700. 3 Seren Hostel (賽倫青旅), No.26 Lane 371, Fucian Rd., ☏ +886 6-358-0972. In the city center. Most must-see sites and popular eateries can be reached on foot within 5-15 min. NT$530. 4 Cheng Kuang Hotel, 294 Beimen Rd Sec. 1 (near the train station), ☏ +886 6 222-1188. The hotel is a little old, but the rooms are OK for the price. 5 Tainan City Labour Recreation Centre (臺南市南門勞工育樂中心), 261 Nanmen Rd, ☏ +886 6 215-0174. Check-out: 11:00. Large single room including private bathroom NT$550/Double room. Open 06:00-00:00, hot water only from 18:00-00:00. They no longer offer dorm rooms. 6 Fuqi Hostel (福憩背包客棧), No.76-2, Zhongzheng Rd., West Central Dist., Tainan City 700 (The hostel is on the 2nd and 3rd floor. The entrance is not very obvious, it's just a metal door with the name of the hostel on it.), ☏ +886-6-7034543. WiFi, free internet, kitchen, living room and laundry plus very helpful and friendly staff. Dorm rooms for NT$450. 7 loft18 hostel, 號 No. 18, No. 5F-1, Lane 270, Section 2, Hai'an Rd, West Central District (Inside YongLe market, behide Funkoo bar), ☏ +886 961 103 612. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Clean and comfortable. 10-beds dorm, bedlight, 3 power plugs, bedsheet/blanket, towel, curtain, large locker with key (ok 80L), wifi, aircon. Kitchen with fridge, toast

Go next

Guanziling – One of Taiwan's best-known hot spring areas. Dongshan Coffee Route – A scenic mountain road lined with small organic coffee farms/cafes. Fo Guang Shan – The largest and most impressive Buddhist monastery of Taiwan, just 1 hour southeast of Tainan. Kaohsiung – The second largest city of Taiwan, and a port city that took over Tainan's place as the Harbor City, one hour south by TR train. Chiayi – The next northern city and natural jumping off point for the beautiful Alishan, e.g. by the scenic narrow-gauge Alishan Forest Railway. Kinmen – If Tainan is the bastion of Taiwanese identity, then Kinmen is an interesting study at the opposite end of the spectrum as a pair of islands inextricably tied to the Chinese mainland.