Stromness

Getting there

Northlink car ferries sail 2 or 3 times daily between Stromness and Scrabster, taking 90 min. If you book a cabin on the early morning sailing to Scrabster, you can board between 9:30PM and midnight the previous evening. 1 Stromness ferry terminal is central in town next to the bus terminus. The other ferry routes from the Scottish mainland to Orkney are Aberdeen-Kirkwall-Shetland, Gills Bay to St Margaret's Hope, and John O'Groats to Burwick: see Orkney Islands#Get in. Orkney Ferries sail at least twice a day from Stromness to Moaness at the north end of Hoy and to Graemsay. The ferry to Lyness at the south end of Hoy and to Flotta sails from Houton five miles south of Stromness: Bus 5 connects twice a day. By road from Kirkwall is 14 miles along A965. Stagecoach X1 runs hourly from St Margaret's Hope via Kirkwall and Stenness. April-Oct M-F it extends, doubling back from Stromness to Stenness, Ring of Brodgar and Skara Brae. A taxi in 2024 costs about £45 from Kirkwall town centre and £55 from the airport.

Getting around

Stromness is compact and its flagged main street is a pleasant stroll. The Stones of Stenness are only four miles away, an hour's hike, but it's a busy main road with only an intermittent sidewalk. Bike is the ideal way to reach these, Skara Brae, Birsay and Kirkwall, and to potter around Hoy, though for sure the stiff breeze will contrive to be in your face in both directions. Orkney Cycle Hire is at 54 Dundas St, open daily 8AM-5PM.

See

Dr John Rae (1813-1893) is commemorated by a statue at the ferry terminal. He was born at Orphir on Orkney, became a surgeon and joined the Hudson's Bay Company. On the Bay he learned how to live off the land and travel light and fast, unlike the typical ponderous Victorian expedition. He made many arduous explorations of Canada's northeast coast, and was asked to help trace Franklin's lost navy expedition. He learned of its fate from the Inuit and brought back a few items - plus the news that the desperate party had resorted to cannibalism, and for this he was detested by the Victorian establishment. He's buried at St Magnus Cathedral, Kirkwall. Pier Arts Centre, 28 Victoria Street KW16 3AA (100 yards south of terminal), ☏ +44 1856 850209, [email protected]. M-Sa 10:30AM-5PM. Gallery with permanent collection of work by 20th century artists, mostly modernist and the St Ives school. The centre also hosts temporary exhibits and runs educational and community outreach activities. The building is 18th century and became the home of a merchant of Hudson's Bay Company, whose ships passed this way. Free. (updated Jul 2024) Khyber Pass and Puffer's Close are examples of the little alleys that cut off the main street, either down to the shore or up the hill. Login's Well, now protected behind a glass door, was the main source for ships re-filling their fresh water barrels. 1 Stromness Museum, 52 Alfred Street KW16 3DH, ☏ +44 1856 850025, [email protected]. Apr-Oct M-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-4PM. Covers natural history, sea-going and maritime exploration, and wartime Orkney. Adult £7.50, conc £5, child free. (updated Jul 2024) The cannon 100 yards south of the museum was captured from an American privateer in 1813 but was thereafter ceremonial: it was fired to greet Hudson's Bay Company ships coming into harbour. It never managed to hit one. 2 Ness Battery, Guardhouse Park KW16 3DP, ☏ +44 7759 857298. This artillery position was built in 1915 to guard the en

Do

Carve the runes, then be content with silence - epitaph of George Mackay Brown Brinkies Brae is the 94 m hill behind town with views towards Hoy. The coast path leads south from town to Point of Ness, with its campsite, then turns west past the golf course and the gaunt structure of Ness Battery. Continue to Warbeth Cemetery, from where you can short-cut back to town by the public road. Golf: Stromness GC is south, between the Point and Ness Battery. White tees 4808 yards, par 69, visitor round £50. The Island Games in 2025 include a golf tournament here and at Orkney GC. Scapa Scuba at the lifeboat house on Dundas St do diving equipment sales, hire and repair, plus air fills. They also do other chandlery and boat equipment but don't have a scuba school. They're open M-Sa 2-6PM, Su 4-6PM. Gym & Pool: Stromness Swimming Pool and Fitness Centre is at the north edge of town. Orkney Folk Festival is held in May, various venues but mostly in Stromness. The next is probably 22-25 May 2025, tbc.

Buy

Co-op Food is on Ferry Rd 400 yards north of the pier. It's open daily 7AM-10PM and has a ATM. Stromness Books and Prints (Tam's Book Shop), 1 Graham Place KW16 3BY, ☏ +44 1856 850565. M-Sa noon-6PM. Tiny but much-loved bookshop tucked into the corner with Dundas Street. (updated Jul 2024)

Eat

Julia's Cafe, Ferry Rd KW16 3AE (By ferry pier), ☏ +44 1856 850904. Daily 9:30AM-4:30PM. Popular place handy for transport. (updated Jul 2024) Adam's Place serves seafood Tu-Su next to Julia's. Peedie Chippie is a fish & chips takeaway van, usually parked by the library and serving Sa 5-8PM. Pier Bistro is next to the Arts Centre and open M-Sa 9AM-4:30PM Stromness Chinese is a takeaway at 63 Victoria St open daily 4-10PM. Bayleaf Delicatessen is at 103 Victoria St, open daily 10AM-5:30PM.

Drink & nightlife

Stromness doesn't have stand-alone pubs, head for the hotel bars.

Sleep

1 Brown's Hostel, 47 Victoria St KW16 3BS, ☏ +44 1856 850661. Comfy well-run hostel open all year, with private rooms and Harbourlee self-catering house. Single £23 ppn. (updated Jul 2024) Ferry Inn, 10 John Street KW16 3AD (by ferry pier), ☏ +44 1856 850280, [email protected]. Comfy rooms and helpful staff, with bar food. B&B double £180. (updated Jul 2024)

Stromness Hotel, 15 Victoria St KW16 3AA (near ferry pier), ☏ +44 333 4444 324. It's seen better days. The staff try hard but the place is tatty, and there's no longer a bar. B&B double £160. (updated Jul 2024) Royal Hotel, 55 Victoria St KW16 3BS (200 yards south of ferry pier), ☏ +44 1856 850342. Friendly relaxing hotel with 10 rooms en suite. Some noise from the bar. B&B double £220. (updated Jul 2024) 2 Point of Ness Caravan & Camping Site, Point of Ness KW16 3DW, ☏ +44 1856 850907. Clean spacious Council-run site open April-Sep, on the breezy headland a mile south of town. Caravan £28, small tent £12. (updated Jul 2024)

Go next

Stenness 3 miles east has Maeshowe burial chamber, and several standing stones a short way north. Kirkwall has several sites and accommodation, and is the hub for all of Orkney. Hoy is an easy day trip from Stromness.