Seville

Understand

With more than 685,000 inhabitants (2021), and 1.5 million in the metropolitan area, it is Spain's fourth-largest city, dominating southern Spain. The smooth, slow Guadalquivir River flows through Seville, known as Betis by the Romans and as Betik Wahd-Al-Khabir by the Arabs. Since it is hard to navigate upstream from Seville, the cereal-producing region starts here, and Seville has been a busy port from Roman times, under Muslim rule, and exploding during the Age of Discovery. As the monopoly was broken and Cádiz largely took Seville's place, the city entered a period of relative decline. In the 19th century Seville gained a reputation for its architecture and culture and was a stop along the Romantic "Grand Tour" of Europe. Seville has built on its tourism industry since, playing host to the International Exposition in 1992, which spurred the construction of a new airport, a new train station, a bullet train link to Madrid, new bridges and improvements to the main boulevards. For classical music buffs, Seville is the setting of many famous operas over the years, such as Mozart's Le nozze di Figaro and Don Giovanni, Beethoven's Fidelio, Rossini's Il barbiere di Siviglia and Bizet's Carmen.

Visitor information Turismo de la Provincia de Sevilla. (updated Jul 2021)

Getting there

By plane Ryanair flies from some 50 destinations (some seasonal) within Spain, across Europe (especially from Italy, Germany, UK and Ireland), and from Morocco. Iberia, Vueling and other carriers fly from Madrid, Mallorca, Asturias, Bilbao, Barcelona, Valencia, Tenerife, Lanzarote, Melilla in Spanish North Africa, and other European cities. It's only worth flying here from Madrid if you have a connecting flight, as the trains from the capital are so fast. 1 Sevilla Airport (SVQ IATA) (10 km northeast of city centre on A-4). The airport is a single terminal with Arrivals downstairs, with car hire desks and not much else. There are more groundside cafés and other facilities upstairs in the Departures hall. From there you pass through security and U-turn into the long airside mall. Gates are divided into areas A and B for Schengen destinations and C for non-Schengen destinations. Cafés and shops line the first half of the mall in areas A and B. Passport control for non-Schengen destinations is between B and C, but don't pass through to area C until an hour before your flight (or when displayed on flight information screens) as there are only toilets and one café in this area. As of 2024 there are only two manual passport control booths operating for all non-Schengen departures and these only open 45 minutes before flight departure time. The e-gates are non operational. If there are two flights leaving around the same time from the C Gates, be prepared for queues. (updated Apr 2023) Getting there/away:

Tussam Bus EA (for "Especial Aeropuerto") runs daily every 15 min from 05:00 to 00:30. One-way ticket €6, same-day round trip €8 (December 2025). Buy tickets from ticket machines next to the bus stop or on the bus. It runs from outside Arrivals, down Av de Kansas City to the main railway station, then loops with four stops around the south edge of city centre to the main bus station at Plaza de Armas. Total journey 35 min.For going from Seville to the airport: The bus EA departs in front of the bus station Plaza de Armas where the city buses depart (not downstairs!). Ride apps Use the local Cabify app, Uber or Bolt. Their designated pick-up area is on the ground level of the parking garage right next to the left outside of arrivals. Taxis to the town centre really shouldn't cost more than €25 for two of you, though they'll make out it's more today for the fiesta of St Strabismus and because your luggage is left-handed. However, taxi fares are officially regulated. Jerez de la Frontera Airport (XRY IATA) is south of Seville and can be reached in 1 hour dri

Getting around

On foot Walking is the best option for sight-seeing: Seville is a large city but the points of interest are in the compact old centre. Strolling and coming across fine old churches, charming cafes and hidden plazas is part of the experience of being here.

By public transport With the rechargable green travel card you can use all means of public transport (metro, tram, regional trains (Cercanías), city and regional buses) for a lower price. The card can be bought in tobacco shops for €1.50 and must be charged with at least €5 (Nov 2024). There are other travel cards issued by the metro or the city bus operator, but you can only use certain means of public transport with those cards. The local bus operator issues a rechargeable card named bonobus. The minimum recharge is €7 plus €1.50 as a deposit. With the card the fare is €0.35 or €0.38 including a transfer. Bonobuses can be bought at most kiosks and tabacarias (tobacco shops) (updated Mar 2024)

By bus Buses run frequently and cover the majority of the city in their routes. The single fare without a travel card is €1.40. Regular service is kept until around 23:30, after which night buses run, with different routes, on the hour until 02:00 (updated Mar 2024) The letter "C" in front of a bus line means circular. The standard fares of city buses apply. The bus line EA looks like a normal city bus and has many stops in the city. All rides cost €5 (Dec 2024) even if you don't use the bus to the airport but only inside of Seville. The Hop-on-Hop-off bus service is available in Seville for €26 (March 2024). It has 14 stops on both sides of the river. Great for a multilingual overview for first time visitors.

By metro You are unlikely to use it as it does not run near the old town, or other sights or accommodation. Its sole line follows an arch, from the southwest burbs to south end of city centre stopping at Plaza de Cuba, Prado de San Sebastián and San Bernardo, then out to the southeast burbs. It runs Su-Th 06:30-23:00, until 02:00 on Friday and Saturday nights. Tickets are €1.30 for a single zone or €4.50 for all 3 zones unlimited trips.

By tram Trams run from Prado de San Sebastián at the south end of the centre, up Av de la Constitución past the cathedral, to end at Plaza Nueva. So it's barely 2 km of track, through an area that you'll probably prefer to walk.

By scooter Scooters are available for rent for €30 for the day and €120 for the week. These are a cost-efficient way of getting around and a driver's license is not necessary. Providers like Voi also offer on-demand scooter renta

See

Landmarks

1 Cathedral (Catedral de Sevilla), Avenida de la Constitución, ☏ +34 902 09 96 92, [email protected]. Jul-Aug: M 09:30-14:30, Tu-Sa 09:30-14:00, Su 14:30-18:00; Sep-Jun: M 11:00-15:30, Tu-Sa 11:00-17:00, Su 14:30-18:00. Huge 15th-century church on the site of the former great mosque; richly decorated with the central nave rising to 37 m. An ornate canopy and statue marks the final resting place of Christopher Columbus. If there's a queue for tickets then go to the nearby Church of Salvador (Iglesia del Salvador) and buy a combi ticket. Cathedral admission includes La Giralda, the minaret that is now the magnificent bell tower. Within, you ascend 34 ramps - no need to keep count as they're tallied on the wall - then a last short flight of steps brings you onto the viewing terrace. Church of Salvador: all of its Rocco altarpieces were cleaned and excavations revealed remains from an Islamic mosque and earlier Christian churches, now accessible in the crypt. Unless you like massive cathedrals, the effect is much more impressive. Adult €10, concessions €5. (updated Jan 2020) 2 Real Alcázar, Enter from Plaza del Triunfo, ☏ +34 912 302 200, [email protected]. Apr-Sep: daily 09:30-19:00; Oct-Mar: daily 09:30-17:00. A beautiful palace in Mudéjar (Moorish) style, built in the 12th century by the Almohad Caliphs. Greatly remodelled and extended in the 14th century by Pedro I the Cruel, its myriad rooms, extravagant architecture, lavish gardens including a maze, with many courtyards, ponds and secrets to be explored, make it a fascinating place to visit. The room where Christopher Columbus's journey across the Atlantic was planned has his coat of arms embroidered on the wall along with those of royalty. The Royal Apartments are open to tours whenever the royal family aren't using them. In the heat of summer the palace is a cool retreat from the sun's glare, and there are night tours Mar-Oct. There are toilets and a cafe within the walls of the site. It gets busy in high season: buy tickets online in advance, and only from the official website. The tourist entrance, "The Lion's Gate", is on the side facing the cathedral and has a large image of a lion above it. Adult €13.50, concessions €6, plus Royal Apartments €4.50. (updated Mar 2024)

3 Hospital de los Venerables (Diego Velázquez Research Centre), Plaza de los Venerables 8 (in the Barrio Santa Cruz), ☏ +34 697 898 659, fax: +34 95 456 45 95, [email protected]. Tu-Sa 10:00-18:00, Su 10:00-15:00. A 17th-century retirement home and hospital for aged and sickly reti

Do

Cruises, an hour in duration, leave from beneath the Torre del Oro and travel a circuit on the Guadalquivir river. Horse-drawn carriage rides found near the cathedral take you to the nearby park and other sites of interest. For the sake of the animals, try to avoid carriage rides in the heat of the day in summer.

Flamenco Flamenco is very popular in Spain and is not just for tourists; however finding the right place is hard. Poke around the neighbourhood of El Arenal, following the sounds of flamenco music to find a place.

1 Museo del Baile Flamenco, Calle de Manuel Rojas Marcos, 3, ☏ +34 954 34 03 11. Daily: museum 10:00-19:00, performances 19:00-20:00. Offers an experience for all the senses with ambiental music, videos, touch-screens and artifacts to be found in this 18th century building at the heart of the historical Barrio Santa Cruz. On Friday and Saturday evenings a spectacular show is hosted at a discounted price for visitors to the museum. Flamenco art and photography exhibitions are also on display and dance, singing, percussion and guitar lessons are offered. Museum: €10 adult, €8 senior, €6 child; performances: €20 adults, €14 senior, €12 child. 2 La Casa del Flamenco (Cultural Centre), Calle Ximénez de Enciso, 28, ☏ +34 955 02 99 99. Daily autumn/winter 19:30, spring/summer 21:00. A good spot to see real flamenco. €22. 3 La Carbonería, Calle Céspedes, 21 A (near the cathedral), ☏ +34 954 21 44 60. 21:30, 22:30, and 23:30 daily. Offers free flamenco shows nightly. Arrive early for good seats.

Festivals Semana Santa. The sombre Easter week processions feature thousands of people and go on all week, a spectacular display of conspicuous Catholicism. 4 Feria de Abril (Seville Fair). Also known as "Feria de Sevilla" - a release after the somberness of Semana Santa. To say this is a huge party would be an understatement. Most if not all of Seville takes a week's holiday (the Wednesday of Feria week is a public holiday) and they plan for the fair months in advance. The fair is close to the river. It covers a huge area and contains hundreds of private and public casetas which are laid out to form streets. Casetas are small marquees and you can only get into the private ones if invited. The public ones are large but just as much fun. The day is naturally split in two and between 12:00 and 20:00 the streets of the fair throng with horses as riders and carriages strut their stuff dressed in traditional Spanish robes. After 20:00 the streets are cleared and "Calle del Inferno" comes to life. This must be one of the best funfairs in Europe –

Buy

Seville is home to many beautiful artifacts, some of the more popularly known are plates and Spanish tiles. Triana offers many ceramic factories where one can buy various tiles from authentic craftsmen. There are stores that custom design plates and tiles near the cathedral, especially in Calle Sierpes, but across the river in Triana are other worthwhile pottery stores. Depending on the time of year, but especially leading up to Christmas, there are a number of artisan fairs throughout the city.

Wander through an open-air market. Vendors in many parts of the city sell on the streets, but on Sunday, when everything else is closed, a few spots really fill up. One market is behind the Alcampo shopping centre at Ronda del Tamarguillo on Avenida de la Paz (Bus lines 30, 36 from Prado de San Sebastian), but it is easily outdone by a large flea market, selling clothes, furniture, trash, books, shoes, CDs, food, tools, and probably everything else just northwest of Triana near Avenida Carlos III (off of the left-hand side of most tourist maps).

Boutiques 1 Alianzas Breda, Calle Balbino Marrón 3, ☏ +34 954 04 21 60, [email protected]. (updated Feb 2020)

Clothing Seville offers a wide variety of retail clothing, although generally at high prices. The main shopping district is home to all the big international and Spanish clothing lines (such as Zara who has at least 4 stores in Seville). The winding streets and alleyways of the Santa Cruz area (around the Cathedral) do a roaring trade in Spanish- and Andalusian-themed T-shirts and inexpensive flamenco dresses for little girls. The Corte Ingles (translated literally to "The English Cut") is a large chain of department stores throughout Spain selling clothes in the "American style".

Bershka, Popular with the younger generation, Bershka has significant presence due to their clothing line with a distinct urban, or street culture feel. Blanco is particularly popular with young women in Spain and Europe. The trendy and free designs are colourful, comfortable and affordable. El Corte Inglés, The main building in Plaza del Duque has several floors of clothing. The same for the Nervión Plaza location outside the historic centre. Massimo Dutti, Men's and women's fashion chain caters to a more modern feel of clothing. The designs are formal but quite trendy and utilize excellent fabrics with urban and cosmopolitan details. Stradivarius, Known for its original, constantly changing fashion, the designs follow the latest trends in clothing and accessories. Zapatos de baile flamenco and Roberto Garrudo, Flamenco an

Eat

Seville, like most Andalusian destinations, is known for its tapas. "Tapa", while it is associated with certain dishes, is actually a size and many restaurants or bars will offer a tapa, media ración (half serving, although sometimes enough to make a meal) and ración (serving) of the same dish. There are many great tapas places around the foot of the cathedral in the centre of town. You can't go wrong; simply order one of everything to find your favourite! Some typical tapas include tortilla española (potato omelet), pulpo gallego (Galician octopus), aceitunas (olives), patatas bravas (spicy potatoes), and queso manchego (sheep's milk cheese from the region of La Mancha in central Spain). Also be sure to try the jamón (ham), which you often see hanging above the bar. Most of the restaurants kitchens do not open before 20:30 in the evening. Though usually some easy to prepare meals are available before that time. As the quality of food is considered of a great importance in Seville, most local bars will have very good food at a low price. For an authentic and interesting meal, stop at one of the many bars, especially one which doesn't offer English menus (the prices are likely to be lower!). Some bars near the river, such as Pedalquivir and El Faro de Triana, offer a nice view but aren't as good of a deal in terms of the quality of the food. Another would be El Patio San Eloy (San Eloy 9, Sevilla) where the tapas can be a little hit and miss, but where the cool staggered seating steps, fabulous décor and fruity sangria; provide a wonderful respite from the heat of the day. A good deal can more easily be had at less characteristic places such as Sloppy Joe's Pizza Inn and Papasá. If you would like to purchase your own food, head down to one of the markets close to the centre of the city, such as in Plaza Encarnación. El Corte Inglés is a larger more popular department store that you can go to for almost every need. Don't eat the oranges from the trees on the street, they have been sprayed to repel birds and taste awful. If you're vegetarian, make sure you specify that you eat no fish or tuna as vegetarian only implies no meat here. The supermarkets M.A.S. and Dia are two very popular grocery stores and have everything you need for much less money than El Corte Ingles. Additionally, Dia has its own discount brand on a lot of items. Though they are closed on Sundays (like most everything else in Sevilla) they are found throughout the city and are very easily accessible.

Budget

Old town 1 Bodeguita Romero, Calle Harinas, 10, ☏ +34 954 229 556. Tu-F 09:0

Drink & nightlife

Coffee Most cafés or cafeterías in Sevilla serve slightly longer shots of darkly roasted coffee, and even cortado is quite large compared to what one might expect to get e.g. in Valencia. Speciality coffee connoisseurs will probably prefer one of the cafés serving single-origin or organic coffee:

1 Parcería Café, Calle Calderón de la Barca 9. Situated near Mercado Feria, Parcería is a tiny café serving coffee from a local roaster. Laptops aren’t allowed, but the coffee is worth a walk from the city centre. 2 Utopía Café, Calle Fernán Caballero, 1. Hidden in a side street, Utopía is a takeaway-only café serving coffee from the same local roaster as Parcería. 3 Delatribu, Pje. Andreu, 3. A small takeaway café serving organic coffee and homemade pastry. 4 CafeTeaTe, Plaza del Altozano s/n Mercado de Triana, puesto 34-35. Located inside the Triana market, this café also serves breakfast sandwiches and other items. Their espresso shots are slightly longer than one might expect, but still decent. Make sure to ask about the current coffees when you order, they usually have one darker and one lighter roast.

Alcohol The nightlife of Seville is fantastic; no other European city has so many bars per inhabitant than Seville. In summer go to Isla Cartuja and find out why the Spanish night doesn't stop before 07:00. There you can find plenty of open-air discothèques. Other nightlife spots include Calle Betis in Triana, La Alamede de Hércules, and Plaza Alfalfa.

There are quite a few teterias in Triana across the river offering teas, shakes and Middle Eastern pastries in a cozy cushion filled environment. Down the street is a patisserie shop selling chocolate covered palmeras, a wonderful afternoon treat after a long day touring the sites. There are many coffee shops and patisserie shops in Seville, particularly in Calle Asunción in Los Remedios. Café de Indias, Starbucks and other franchises have descended lately on the city and are a good option in an emergency, but you can get a decent coffee in most local bars. For an up-market classic, visit La Campana, at the end of calle Sierpes. Don't miss Cervecería La Internacional, one of the best beer shops in Spain. More than 250 types of beer, wonderful tapas and good connections. It's in Calle Barcelona, 1 minute away from Plaza Nueva, near the Town Hall. However, do not get confused, it is international, meaning, not typically Sevillano. Sangría (an alcoholic fruit punch) is often sought by tourists, but Tinto de Verano (a mix of red wine and lemon or orange soda) is more authentic, has less alcohol, and is o

Sleep

Most places have air conditioning but be sure to ask in summer, you'll need it. You will probably pass the siesta (early afternoon) in your room to escape the heat. Sevillanos are well-known for their nightlife so if you don't plan to be out at all hours yourself, then seek accommodation on a street without lots of bars and restaurants, or ask for a room set back from the street.

Budget 1 B&B Naranjo, C/ San Roque 11, ☏ +34 954 22 58 40. Budget hotel in old house near bus station, rooms are small with some on third floor, no elevator. Pleasant rooftop terrace. The a/c struggles in hot weather. B&B double €40. (updated Jan 2020) 2 Oasis Backpackers' Hostel, Calle Compañia 1, ☏ +34 955 22 82 87, [email protected]. Clean friendly hostel with rooftop pool. Daily activities such as walking tours, Spanish classes, bar games. Dorm €25. (updated Jan 2020) 3 Oasis Backpackers' Palace Seville, Calle Almirante Ulloa 1, ☏ +34 955 26 26 96. Dorms in all sizes, lockers to put your backpack in and free linen. Roof-top terrace with chill-out bar to overlook Seville, guest kitchen, free breakfast and free internet/ wifi. Dorm €15. (updated Jan 2020) Sevilla Inn (Sevilla Backpackers Hostel), C/ Angeles 11, ☏ +34 605 90 32 35, [email protected]. Great location 100 m east of Giralda. Spacious terrace with views of the cathedral. Dorm €15. (updated Jan 2020) 4 Triana Hostel (Triana Backpackers), C/ Rodrigo de Triana 69, ☏ +34 954 45 99 60, [email protected]. Clean well-run hostel, painted ceramic tiles, and green plants among cozy sofas. Nice roof terrace with hammocks. Rooms are average-small for a hostel with creaky iron bunk beds, safety boxes and short of space. Free breakfast and 3 (slow) computers with internet access. It's 3 blocks from the river in a nice neighbourhood with narrow streets and old houses. Dorm €18. (updated Jan 2020) 5 Pension Vergara, Calle Ximenez de Enciso 11, Barrio de Santa Cruz (stone's throw from the Cathedral), ☏ +34 954215668, +34 657896459, [email protected]. Check-in: 12:30, check-out: 12:00. Simple pension but in a converted 15th-century convent. Single room with shared bathroom, €15. (updated Sep 2020)

Mid-range 6 Hotel Pasarela, Avenida de la Borbolla 11 (100 m east of Plaza de Espana), ☏ +34 954 415 511. Clean friendly place just behind the big plaza. B&B double €50. (updated Jan 2020) 7 Hostal Callejón del Agua, Calle Corral del Rey 23, ☏ +34 954 21 20 98. Basic hotel, great location, very small rooms, street noise can be a problem. B&B double €70. (updated Jan 2020) 8 Hotel Abanico, Call

Go next

Sierra de Aracena. Towards the North West of Sevilla, it is one of the most famous places for Jamón in Spain and full of lovely small villages to discover. Great for walking around, eating and exploring this Natural Park. There are numerous buses from Plaza de Armas Bus Station. Sierra Norte. Towards the North of Sevilla, it makes for a nice change from the monotonous landscape of the Guadalquivir Valley. It is an area of steep relief, olive groves, and deep river valleys. Deer, wild boar and other large animals are often seen from the car. The area is well known for its cured meats. Córdoba: remarkable old city with its moorish Mezquita, white-walled Jewish quarter and Medina Azahara archeological site; less than an hour by train. Granada has the must-see Alhambra palace and gardens. Cádiz has an attractive old town, the seaport that Christopher Columbus sailed from. It's easily reached by train or car. Huelva. Discovering a 19th-century British town in the middle of this Andalusian city is definitely remarkable. Huelva has an interesting history. Columbus left from Puerto de Palos and La Rabida Monastery, where he spent a few months it is well worth the visit. The wide and white beaches around, like Punta Umbria or Islantilla are also a good reason to visit and try fresh fish. Buses from Damas Bus Company every hour from Plaza de Armas Bus Station. Italica. A partially excavated Roman city, only a brief bus ride from Seville on the M-172 (from Plaza de Armas Bus Station). Most of it is lost under the village of Santiponce, but several streets and the footings of houses and public buildings with mosaic tiled floors can be seen. The highlight is one of the largest known Roman amphitheatres with seats for 25,000. In the summer, cruises are offered from beneath the Torre de Oro to Sanlucar de Barrameda at the mouth of the river. Madrid: the buzzing capital is less than 3 hours away by train.