Phatthalung

Understand

Phatthalung is on the west coast of Songkhla Lake, 860 km from Bangkok. This mountainous city is among the ancient cities in the south. Khao Ok Thalu or Mount Ok Thalu, the symbol of the city, is prominent by its height and can be seen from a distance. The performing arts of Nang Talung (puppet shadow play) and Nora dance have their origins in this city. It was assumed from evidence that Phatthalung had been a town built in the Srivijaya period. The original town was at Hua Khao Daeng on the coast, now opposite the city of Songkhla.

Getting there

By car From Bangkok, there are three possible routes:

Follow Hwy 4 to Chumphon and, at the Pathomphon intersection, take a turn toward Ranong, Phang Nga, Krabi, Trang, and Phatthalung, a total distance of around 1,140 km. Follow Hwy 4 to Chumphon and switch to Hwy 41 toward Phatthalung, a total distance of 840 km. Follow Hwy 4 past Chumphon, Surat Thani, and Nakhon Si Thammarat, change to Hwy 403, and at the Khao Chum Thong junction, switch to Hwy 41 toward Phatthalung.

By plane There is no airport in Phatthalung. Visitors can take a flight to Trang or Hat Yai. For more information, contact Thai Airways at Tel. 1566, +66 2 800060, +66 2 6282000; the Trang Office at Tel. +66 75 218066, +66 75 219923; the Hat Yai Office at Tel. +66 74 245851–2, +66 74 243711, +66 74 233433.

By train The State Railway of Thailand (SRT) serves Phatthalung. Tel. 1690, +66 2 2237010, +66 2 2237020, or contact the Phatthalung Railway Station at Tel. +66 74 613106. There are four trains per day from Bangkok, taking about 16 hours. Different trains have different combinations of 1st class sleepers, 2nd class A/C sleepers, 2nd class fan sleepers, and seats (not recommended as all these trains travel overnight). The train departing Bangkok at 16:10 and arriving in Phattalung at 08:26 is recommended, it has 2nd class sleepers, both A/C and fan carriages. 1st class A/C tickets cost 1500 baht, 2nd class A/C 1500-1700 baht, 2nd class fan sleepers 575 baht. Upper berths are always around 10% cheaper on Thai sleeper trains.

See

Khao Ok Talu (เขาอกทะลุ). Phatthalung's "mountain", having an elevation of around 250 m. There is a flight of stairs leading the way up to the mountaintop overlooking the city of Phatthalung. (updated Jul 2018) Namtok Phraiwan Waterfalls (น้ำตกไพรวัลย์), Tambon Khlong Chaloem, Amphoe Kong Ra (From Phatthalung town, take Hwy 4; at the Kong Ra T-junction, turn right on Hwy 4122 for ~29 km. Follow signs for 3 more km). Daily, 08:00-17:00. The waterfall is in the Khao Banthat Wildlife Reserve in Tambon Khlong Chaloem. It is in natural surroundings rich in tropical flora. Parking and a restaurant are nearby. Take a mini-bus on the Namtok Phraiwan-Phatthalung Line at the bus stop diagonally opposite the Phatthalung Railway Station. The mini-buses depart daily every 15 minutes from 07:00-17:00. The last bus from Namtok Phraiwan to Phatthalung leaves at 15:00. (updated Jul 2017) Phra Phutthanirarokhantarai Chaiyawat Chaturathit or Phra Si Mum Mueang (พระพุทธนิรโรคันตรายชัยวัฒน์จตุรทิศหรือพระสี่มุมเมือง). This bronze Buddha image in the posture of meditation is enshrined in a pavilion with four porches on the foreground between the city hall and provincial court of Phatthalung. (updated Jul 2018) Wat Khuha Sawan (วัดคูหาสวรรค์). This is one of the ancient monuments of Phatthalung. Inside the cave, a giant reclining Buddha image, pagoda, and other Buddha images are found together with some earthen votive tablets of the Srivijaya period. (updated Jul 2018) Wat Wang (วัดวัง). The ubosot (ordination hall) is in the architectural style of the Rattanakosin era, with the "chofa", gable finial, "Bai Raka" crockets, and a front portico. One hundred and eight stucco Buddha images are enshrined in the gallery around the ordination hall. (updated Jul 2018) Rulers' New and Old Palaces (วังเจ้าเมืองพัทลุง วังเก่า – วังใหม่). Once they served as a residence cum offices of the governors of Phatthalung. Today, some parts of them remain. The palaces were registered as an ancient monument

Do

Thale Noi Bird-watching Festival. Initiated in 1998 as an activity for the "Amazing Thailand Year", designed around the most important attraction of Phatthalung. (updated Jul 2018) Khaeng Phon Lak Phra or Chak Phra Tradition (งานประเพณีแข่งโพนลากพระหรือชักพระ). Held on the fourteenth day of the waxing moon, the full moon day and the first day of the waning moon in the eleventh lunar month, which coincides with the end of Buddhist Lent. It is a tradition to move around Buddha images both by land and by river. In Phatthalung, it is observed by land. Beating phons (drums) control the movement of a Buddha image procession. Each procession representing a temple has its own drum beaters. When two processions meet, they exchange a challenging medly of drum beating. A phon beating competition is, therefore, held every year at the Phatthalung Stadium and Hat Saen Suk Lampam (Lampam Beach), Amphoe Mueang Phatthalung. Activities in the event include a phon drumming contest by representatives from temples in Phatthalung and neighbouring provinces, a phon procession contest, a phon beating style contest, dancing performances, Sat Tom (throwing a traditional dessert made of sticky rice wrapped with a young leaf of Kapho or mangrove fan palm), a Buddha image procession contest, religious rites, water sports on Lampam Lake, local arts and exhibition of Phatthalung and nearby provinces, such as Krachut or bulrush mat weaving and coconut shell products. (updated Jul 2018)

Buy

Famous souvenirs include "kalamae" or coconut toffee, "kluai chap" or crispy buttered banana, and "luk yi" (velvet tamarind) candy, and crispy baked prawns.

Drink & nightlife

Although this area has a sizeable Muslim minority, alcoholic drinks are still widely available.

Go next

Take the train south to the regional centre of Hat Yai or further down the Southern Gulf Coast. From there, you can cross into Malaysia. Or if heading north, Bangkok is only an overnight ride on a sleeper train away.