Odesa

Understand

"Odesa" is the spelling preferred by Ukrainians. The Russian spelling, "Odessa", is no longer commonly used in English.

History There has been human settlement here since the earliest times; remains of a Hellenistic seaport circa 6th – 3rd century BCE are being excavated. In medieval times Crimea was an independent Tatar state, and in 1240 its Khan Hacı I Giray founded the settlement of "Hacıbey". This region later came under Lithuanian control, then was part of the Ottoman Empire between 1529 and 1792. In the 18th century, under Empress Catherine the Great, Russia expanded rapidly south and came into conflict with the Ottoman Turks. The Ottomans were defeated in the wars of 1768-1774 and 1787-1792, and Russian control was cemented by the Treaty of Iaşi in 1792. The strategic value of this port was obvious - it had a huge productive hinterland, was ice-free, and gave access to the Black Sea and Mediterranean - and in 1794 the Empress founded the city and named it Odesa. She had looked to her favourite, Potemkin, to develop this region, but he died in 1791 as did Catherine herself in 1796. The task fell instead to four foreigners: José de Ribas captured Hacıbey and convinced Catherine to develop it as a sea-port; the Duc de Richelieu was its first governor 1803-1814; the Count of Langeron, as a later governor, made it a free port; and Franz de Vollan laid out the city grid pattern, a novelty for its day. From 1819 to 1858 Odesa was a free port. It boomed economically, becoming the fourth largest city of the Russian Empire, after Moscow, Saint Petersburg and Warsaw. It was a magnet for labour, creativity and outcasts from elsewhere, becoming very cosmopolitan, with its architectural hodgepodge of Italianate, Renaissance, Neoclassic and Art Nouveau buildings. During the Soviet period, it was the USSR’s leading port, with exports of grain, long-distance oil pipelines, and related industries. These industries continued after Ukraine’s independence in 1991, and Odesa was again declared a free port and free economic zone, as defined by the World Trade Organisation. Culturally and economically, however, the city has suffered from the turmoil within Ukraine and conflict with Russia, and the resulting collapse in tourism. Much of it is grubby and down-at-heel, and many of its fine city blocks are in serious disrepair. Ever since the annexation of the Crimean peninsula by Russia, however, Ukrainians flock to Odesa to soak in the summer sun at its sandy beaches while at the same time triggering redevelopment and building of new resorts and tourist facilities.

Getting there

By plane Due to the Russia-Ukraine war, Ukraine's airspace is closed to civil aviation. The closest operating airport is in Chișinău in Moldova: Chișinău International Airport RMO IATA is served by many airlines, with flights around Europe and Asia.

By train

From western and central Europe the simplest route is probably across Poland to Lviv. From Lviv there is a direct sleeper to Odesa (12 hr), otherwise travel via Kyiv (9 hr). Trains within Ukraine are cheap and comfortable, but slow and infrequent. From Kyiv to Odesa the quickest is the Inter-city, leaving at 16:40 and taking 7 hr, cost 550 грн. The other daytime train leaves around 10:00 and takes 10 hr, cost 400 грн. There’s also a sleeper leaving at 21:00, 9 hr. From Odesa to Kyiv the Inter-city departs at 05:45, then there’s nothing till the 15:40 train, reaching Kyiv just before 02:00. The northbound sleeper departs around midnight. Other connections exist, but they are likely to involve changing trains in the small hours in the middle of nowhere. Other destinations within Ukraine with at least daily direct service in summer include Kharkiv 15 hr, Lviv 12 hr, Chernivtsi 18 hr, Ivano-Frankivsk 17 hr, Khmelnytskyi 8 hr, Kovel 16 hr, Uzhhorod 19 hr, Vinnytsia 5 hr, and Zaporizhzhia 16 hr. Trains are less frequent outside summer. For overall route planning and current timetables, the easiest website to navigate is Deutsche Bahn. To buy tickets within Ukraine, visit www.uz.gov.ua and remember to use Ukrainian spelling, e.g. “Odesa” and “Kyiv”. Booking online is strongly recommended as it will save hassle trying to negotiate your journey at a crowded foreign railway station. Inter-city e-tickets should be printed at home and are good to go, other sales are just a voucher which must be exchanged for a ticket before travel, at any mainline station within Ukraine. All trains terminate at the main station, 1 Odesa-Holovna. , in the Pryvoz area of town next to the bus stations and market. Ticket desks are obvious in the main hall, and any desk will exchange e-vouchers for tickets. Come at a quiet time and the place is relaxed and helpful, just watch out before queuing for the “technical break” times posted on each window. Turn up 15 minutes before the weekend express departs and it’s all a bit chaotic. If you don’t care for what’s on offer at the café or currency exchange, stroll across the street to the bus stations, where there’s lots more. Pryvoz market is handy for stocking up for a long journey. Lots of marshrutkas and taxis outside, the centre is a 2-km walk north.

By bus There are two main

Getting around

Walk The north end of the central city grid is compact and parts are pedestrianised, so enjoy it on foot. Most of the main sights are here. It's too far to walk from the centre to the beach or airport, or to the bus and railway stations if you've much luggage.

By public transport

The city public transport consists of trams, trolleybuses and marshrutkas. Usually there's a conductor on board who'll collect your money and issue your ticket & change; there's no system of pre-purchase or of validating the ticket, unlike Kyiv. If there's no conductor, pay the driver on exit. One of the tram routes, with tourists can find useful is number 5. It runs from the bus station area to the Arcadia Area, passing "Starokonny Rynok" (knows for flea markets), Moldavanka area, Privoz Market, Railway Station, Musical Comedy Theater, and many of the city beaches on its route. Passengers of route 5 can transfer to a trolleybuses of route 5, 7, 9, which will take them to the city center; trolleybus 10 to seaport area, and trolleybus 14 to airport. It's also possible to transfer on trams of routes 3, and 12 at the Preobrazhenskaya street stops which will take a tourist to Deribasovskaya street. Transferring on routes 10, or 21 take tourist all the way to Tiraspolskaya square transport hub which is still close to Deribasovskaya street. Trams 3 and 12, can be even more useful for tourists. They run all the way of Preobrazhenskaya Street, which in one of the major transport arteries of Odesa. On their route, they pass by Deribasovskaya Street, Gorodskoy Sad, Sobornaya Ploschad' (Cathedral Square) Tiraspolskaya Ploschad' tram hub, (transfer for routes 10,15,21) and Privoz Market area. Then route 3 switches east to Railway Station, and its route still continues, while route 12 turns west to Moldavanka section of Odesa. En route, this line crosses a few trolleybus routes, which run through city center. Because those routes are highly demanded, they are often overcrowded. Route 28 runs the same was as route 5 in city center, however passing the Theater of Musical Comedy, it runs North toward Schevchenko Park, and Lanzheron Beach. In Moldavanka, it uses different route toward different terminal than tram 5. Marshrutkas are the main mode of transport, as they cover a lot more ground. They pick up anywhere (wave your hand) and set down anywhere (holler to the driver).

Tickets Single ride tickets in trolleybuses and trams cost 8 грн, in funicular — 10 грн, in buses — 15 грн, in marshrutkas — 15-20 грн.

Schedules Schedules are available on EasyWay and Googl

See

The core of Odesa, with all the main sights, is the city grid stretching from Pryvoz in the south to the Potemkin Steps in the north, and with the 2-km-long Vul Yekaterynynska (Catherine Street) as its spine. You’ll probably arrive in Pryvoz as all modes of transport funnel into here. This area is grubby but sights include the 1 Pryvoz market (next to the bus station) and the Panteleymonivska monastery (just head for the huddle of onion domes). Spare a look for the railway station even if you’re not travelling by rail. There are eating places and decent accommodation nearby, handy for late-night arrivals or early departures. Head north along any of the main streets, and for the first km you’ll wonder why you bothered coming; then after Vul Zhukovskoho the prospect improves. Another couple of blocks and at last you see the grandeur wrought by all those 19th-century entrepreneurs. But much of it has been neglected since independence, so even on the finest avenues there is dereliction and decay. For a pleasant walking circuit, start from the magnificent rebuilt Orthodox Cathedral on Soborna Sq, and drift north through the City Gardens into Havanna St. Bear left into Gogol St, where Gogol's own house, number 11, is yet another sad example of dereliction in an otherwise upmarket avenue. This brings you onto the pedestrianised promenade. It’s not on the shore, but beyond here the land falls away steeply, and there are views over the docks and sea. Turn right and cross 1 Tyoschin Bridge (Mother-in-law bridge), the footbridge over the valley that descends to the docks. On the other side, try to ignore the kitsch cod-Grecian pillars, but admire 2 Vorontsov Palace (now a performance space, so look artistic yet not too weird, the babushka will probably let you in). Continue along Primorskiy Boulevard to the 3 statue of the Duc de Richelieu, in a toga yet, at the head of the Potemkin Steps. Continue to the end of the boulevard and you'll see the city hall. Turn inland and a short block brings you to the Opera House on Lanzheronivska St. Return to your starting point either along this street or adjacent Deribasovskaya St, which has most of the cafes and restaurants. This walk is especially charming early evening, when the fine façades still show their colours and the tumbledown bits are softened by dusk. The Historic Centre of Odesa was listed as a World Heritage site by UNESCO in 2023.

Houses of worship 4 St. Paul’s Lutheran Cathedral (Kirche), Novosels’koho 68. Built in 1824, reopened in 1897. Accommodates up to 1,200. The new cathedral promises to be a much nee

Do

Walk the old town. As well as the circuit described above under "see", the attractive streets also branch west, along Sofia and Pastura Streets. 1 Odesa National Academic Opera and Ballet Theater. Go to the opera house for 800 грн or less. You can get very good tickets already for 100 грн, don't buy the cheaper ones because of restricted visibility. The Odesa opera was called "the best opera in the world" by Ferdinand Fellner, and it's definitely a must-see in Odesa. (updated Sep 2023) 2 Odesa Philharmonic, Bunina street. Go for a concert to the beautiful historic building of National Philharmonic Theatre. The tickets from 80 грн. (updated Sep 2023) 3 Dolphinarium Nemo. Mainly a paradise for children, but also for adults if you are a fan of these majestic marine mammals. The tickets for the show with dolphins cost 100 грн, and you can buy also the swimming with dolphins or dolphinotherapy (more costly). It is on the beach Lanzheron, take the tram No. 28, or trolleybus No. 2, and then walk to the right. (updated Dec 2016) 4 Museum of Partisan Glory and Catacombs, ☏ +380 48 725 2874. Odesa's underground is perforated with one of the biggest catacomb systems of the world. More than 2000 km underground tunnels in several layers cover all the area below and around the city. In former times it saved as a quarry, so the limestone taken from the catacombs was used to build up the historical buildings on the surface. Later it became a hideout for dubious activities and for partisans in Second World War. The museum can only be visited with guided tours.

Odesa beaches Most of the city waterfront, except the port territory, forms a beach zone. All of the beaches are located at the eastern edge of Odesa. The most popular beaches are the following: listed according to their distance from city center.

5 Lanzheron. is closest to the city centre, located just underneath the Shevchenko Park. Reachable by tram #28, as well as by trolleybuses #2 or #3, then a short walk is needed. The dolphinarium is located nearby. (updated Mar 2024) 6 Otrada. is slightly farther from the city centre than Lanzheron. It is the closest to the centre among the beaches located under the French Parkway (Francuzskij bul'var). Otrada is easily reachable by tram #5, 3 stops from the railway station and 5 stops from the intersection with Preobrazhenskaya Street, which is the major transportation artery of the city centre. (updated Mar 2024) 7 Dolphin. is in 3 more tram stops past Otrada. (updated Mar 2024) 8 Chkalovski. two nudist beaches located between Dolphin and Arcadia, near the Chkalovsk

Buy

Go to the Pryvoz market by the station - one of the biggest in the ex-USSR. Lots of cheap vegetables and fruits. Try the pakhlava - the Ukrainian pronunciation of baklava. Be aware, if you're going to buy anything but food in the market (and sometimes with food also), that Odesa is significantly harder in bargaining than anywhere in Russia or Ukraine. Prices several times the regular price without any signs of trying to budge is often, moreover, unlike most bargaining places sellers would often be unfriendly. The tactic extends to anyone not from Odesa, so having a guide from elsewhere may not help. Check Flea Market - on Moldavanka district, around "Starokoniy rinok". Simple people sale here old knick-knacks and trinkets. Here you can buy an original souvenir of the Soviet era like postcards, military stuff etc. The market is only open on Saturdays and Sundays in the morning. It is customary to bargain here, although experienced traders will not be able to significantly reduce the price. At the same time, some rare things can be bought very cheaply.

Eat

There are lots of cafes and restaurants in Odesa, with more and more opening each year. The prices are quite affordable, if you come from the west. Expect to pay 70-100 грн for a lunch in a cafe and around 200 грн in a restaurant. Some restaurants can be of course very expensive, so take a look at the menu before ordering. In the warmer times of the year you can find lots of outdoor sitting areas in the cafes, with blankets usually available to keep you warm in the evening. The 'fast food' on the street is tasty and if you don't speak Russian or read Cyrillic is much more accessible as you can just point at what it is you want. Menus are usually only in Russian, but you may try to ask for an English menu for you (ask in Russian for "menu po angliyski"). If they don't have one, either have an idea of what you want before you sit down or be prepared to randomly pick something from the menu. It's possible that waitresses can also speak basic English, try to ask for recommendations. Food from street vendors, especially at the open air markets, should be approached with the same caution as you would display anywhere. It can be fantastic, or not. There are many supermarkets in Odesa that have high quality foods that you can buy as an alternative. There are several McDonald's restaurants in the city (str. Deribasovskaya 23, Privokzalnaya square 1a). Generally, if you're looking for a place to eat, try to pick one in the city center that looks nice but not too expensive. There are lots of places for what could be called "middle class" with enjoyable atmosphere and good food, but random picking can of course lead to bad food and bad service.

1 Tavernetta. New Italian restaurant with delicious home made pasta on Ekaterinska street. 2 Pivnoy Sad. Very cosy restaurant, actually a brewery, set in City Garden. Plus excellent live music if you're lucky enough and you don't get the local radio. Olio Pizzeria (3 locations). Nice pizzeria with pleasant design in the very heart of the city. Good prices, pizzas from 100 грн. (updated Jan 2019) 3 Gavannaya, 7, Gavannaya St, ☏ +38 48 788 39 00. (updated Mar 2024) 4 Bunina, 35, Bunina St, ☏ +38 48 788 02 42. (updated Mar 2024) 5 Dobrovolskogo, 114/1A Prospekt Dobrovolskogo Ave, ☏ +38 482 323 324. (updated Mar 2024) 6 Kompot, Leontovycha St 15. 08:00-23:00. Good food and very nice decoration. Sit upstairs if you can. They also have tables outside. Avoid eating Oriental or Indian in Odesa. They mostly don't have good cooks, the food you get is not authentic and priced heavily.

Drink & nightlife

The beer served in the south of Ukraine is outstanding and goes excellently with the hearty food. A beer in a restaurant will usually cost around 80-120 грн for local beers and 160-240 грн for imported brands. There are several breweries in the area nearby Odesa, but they are usually not very popular in the restaurants. However, there is a small restaurant-brewery right in the "City Garden" near Deribasovskya, their beer is rather good and they have an English menu. Just look for a sign that says Hausbrauerei (German for Home Brewery) and tell them you just want to have a drink at the bar unless you want to have dinner there of course. Long-lasting traditions of wine production in neighbouring Moldova and Crimea make Odesa an excellent place for wine lovers. Must taste: Negro de Purcari, Pino and famous sweet Kagor from Moldova, Massandra Portwine and Muscat from Crimea. In the big supermarkets and in shops with alcoholic drink specialization you can find a full assortment of alcoholic drinks from beer to absinthe and from local brands to world famous brands. In non-alcoholic drinks here is a large quantity of various brands (foreign: Coca-Cola, Pepsi, Fanta, Sprite, BonAqua etc.; national: Obolon', Bon-Boisson, Prem'era, Kuyal'nik, etc.; local: Kristall, Green Star, Dana, etc.). The nightlife of Odesa in summer is concentrated in the 'Arcadia' district, some 8 km away from the city center. In Odesa you have to pay to enter a club, the rates are around 70-80 грн as of June 2011, but can be higher in particular clubs. A taxi to Arkadia should cost 40-50 грн; beware of the taxi drivers who are waiting for you when you leave Arkadia at night, their tariffs are super-high and they can be rude and intimidating. Call a taxi or walk 500 meters further where you can negotiate a much lower price. To get from Arkadia at night to the central part of the city would be 40-60 грн, to Tairovo or Cheremushki - 70 грн.

1 Club Ibiza, Arcadia. Big club in the center of Arcadia. Cover charge 200 грн on weekends, 50 грн on weekdays, draft beer 35 грн. (updated Sep 2023) 2 Club Itaka, Arcadia. Big competitor of Ibiza and on a par with it. They also have a separate dance floor for 1980s and 1990s music next to the beach. Cover charge 200 грн on weekends, 50 грн on weekdays, draft beer 35 грн. (updated Sep 2023)

Sleep

Accommodation is plentiful in Odesa and ranges from renting a small room from a local resident to registered hostels, to the more expensive hotels. But "expensive" is a relative term - with online booking and avoiding peak periods, you can enjoy top accommodation here for less than you'd pay for a chain hotel in the English Midlands.

Budget If you enter by train you will be immediately approached by one of the many locals in an attempt to get you to rent a room from them. This may end up being a small not so well constructed (but basically clean) one-room structure located in their garden. It may also not come with a shower with running water, instead consisting of a small outdoor cabinet with a tank located above it, which your host will fill with hot water upon request. Additionally the local accommodation will most likely have a squat toilet. For those uncomfortable with using a squat toilet, the facilities at the McDonald's near the train station make for a good substitute. Nobody speaks English or German (even the most basic talk). This makes the negotiations very difficult! In July–August most budget hotels are fully booked. The total price for your garden residency will usually not exceed 400 грн and in the summer it is more than sufficient. The hostels in the city can be booked online or you could try your luck and just drop in.

1 Mini Hostel Odesa, 24 Dvoryanska Street, Apt. 7, ☏ +380 97-9314928, [email protected]. Check-in: 24/7. Cheap, safe and secure hostel in the centre of Odessa. Free Wi-Fi, lockers, linen, coffee and tea. English-speaking reception 24/7. Guests of the Mini Hostel Odessa get a discount if they stay in the Mini Hostel Kyiv or the Mini Hostel Lviv. From 200 грн. (updated Sep 2023) 2 TIU Front Page Hostel, Nizhyns'ka St, 61, Top floor, ☏ +380 671837347, [email protected]. Check-in: 24/7. Large centrally located backpacker/traveller hostel. Safe and secure. Large kitchen & common areas. Free Wi-Fi, lockers, linen, coffee/tea. 3 showers and 3 WCs. Hot water. English speaking reception, all year. From 440 грн. (updated Sep 2023) 3 Zirka Hotel, 70 Uspenskaya St, ☏ +380 487222343, fax: +380 48724011, [email protected]. Check-in: 12:30, check-out: 12:00. Economy rooms have no windows, just 'artificial light'. From 1,000 грн. (updated Sep 2023)

Mid-range Black Sea. 4 Rishelievskaya, 59, Rishelievskaya str, ☏ +380 482 300-911, fax: +380 482 300-959, [email protected]. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. From 500 грн. (updated Sep 2023) 5 Otrada, 1A, Vice-Admiral Azarov str, ☏ +380 48 729-8655, f

Go next

Bilhorod-Dnistrovskyi (Akkerman Fortress), frequent bus (line 560), 2 hours. Most buses also stop in Shabo (famous wine). The other must-see destinations within Ukraine are Kyiv and Lviv, both about 9 hr by train. Nearly all buses from Odesa to Kyiv (350-450 грн ticket) make a stop at the small town of Uman, which is 273 km from Odesa. The place is famous thanks to a huge National Park - Sofia (Sofiyivka Park), and also for the tomb of the Chasidic Rabbi Nachman of Breslov. For Moldova, take a marshrutka from Pryvoz bus station, say 6 hr. Mostly these run via the Palanca border post to avoid crossing Transnistria. However in summer 2017 this area was calm, and traffic was passing freely on the direct road Odesa-Tiraspol-Bender-Chișinău. For Romania, the simplest route is to Chișinău, then by bus or train to Bucharest. An alternative, especially if you want to explore the Danube delta, is to take a bus or marshrutka to Reni. This is about 5 km from the Moldovan border at Giurgiuleşti - if you're lucky the bus-driver might continue to the border for a few more hryvnia. Walk across the border into Moldova, get your passport stamped, then walk or hitch 2 km through Moldova to the border with Romania. Galați, the first town in Romania, is another 8 km. Crimea was a popular next destination, but has been under Russian control since its seizure and annexation in 2014. Public transport is suspended and travel warnings have been issued by most Western nations.