Naples

Understand

Naples represents one of the oldest continuously-inhabited cities in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site with an unmatched heritage as a place of exchange between cultures. This is reflected in the city's structure and monuments, which are a mixture of Greek, Roman, Norman, Angevin, Spanish and French architecture. The UNESCO evaluation committee described Naples' historic centre the largest in Europe – as being "of exceptional value", and went on to say that Naples' setting on its Bay "gives it an outstanding universal value which has had a profound influence". But Italians have known these things for centuries: The view of Naples from the sea is so beautiful that a traditional Italian saying states that once you've seen it, you can die. As a testimony to its extraordinary history, the Naples region hosts an unparalleled concentration of UNESCO World Heritage sites: the Center of Naples itself; the Roman archaeological sites of Pompeii, Herculaneum, Cumae, Pozzuoli, Oplontis and Stabiae; the Royal Palace of Caserta; the royal site of San Leucio and the Aqueduct of Vanvitelli. It is close to Vesuvius, the only active volcano on the European continent and a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Paestum's Greek temples and the Amalfi Coast are possible day trips, as are the islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida in the Bay of Naples. In literary history, Naples is known as a favourite destination of the Roman poet Virgil. This is where he wrote the Roman national epic "Aeneid", and where he was eventually buried. A more contemporary Neapolitan author is the pseudonym Elena Ferrante, whose Neapolitan Novels follow two girls growing up in a poor Naples neighbourhood from the 1950s and onward. In 2013, Naples was the World Capital of Cultures and hosted the Universal Forum of Cultures.

History The city was founded in the 8th century BC as Parthenope, by Greek settlers from the nearby city of Cumae, itself founded by Greeks from the island of Evvia, in the area between Monte Echia and the island of Megaride, on a previous 2nd millennium BC settlement named Phaleros, a name connected to one of the Argonauts. The Cumaeans founded Neapolis ("New City") at the area of today's Piazza Municipio in 6th century BC, and the town became one of the most important Greek polis of Magna Grecia and the whole Mediterranean Sea. In 320 BC, the city was conquered by the Romans, who let it maintain its Greek culture and language. With the fall of the Roman Empire, the town was conquered by the Byzantines, to became capital of an independent duchy. Naples was later governed by Norma

Getting there

By plane

1 Naples International Airport (Aeroporto Internazionale di Napoli) (NAP IATA, also known as Capodichino Airport). Works for connecting the airport to Naples Metro system were expected to be completed in 2027, but check. From the airport you can take a bus for €5 (called Alibus) which has two stops only: Stazione Centrale (Central station) and Piazza Municipio, near the main ferry port (molo Beverello). You can buy your ticket on the bus. The ticket is valid for further public transport trips, up to 90 min after validation. Further connections are listed on the official airport website. Beware of (legal) taxi drivers on the way to the Alibus stop, who claim to charge the same price as the Alibus, but actually also charge for children and go only once the minivan is full. If you have time to spare, you can take the 3S bus that will take you to the same stops as the Alibus for less. The difference is that the Alibus has limited stops, but the 3S will take you to the backstreets leading to the Stazione, continuing all the way to the port and a shopping district. Also, the Alibus is air conditioned whereas most 3S buses are not. Beware of illegal, unauthorized taxis and of anyone who may approach you directly. Authorized taxis are clearly visible at the exit; fixed fares exist for a number of destinations, and must be clearly shown in the cab. Make sure they are authorized before getting in the cab, and threaten to call the police ("polizia") should the taxi driver try to push back. Even authorized drivers may decline to run the meter and overcharge you citing non-existing tariffs, or tell you "cash only" unless you insist on paying with card (all licensed taxis should have working terminals by law). As of November 2023, the fixed fare from the airport to the central train station is 18 EUR per car, day and night, with luggage, including all charges except possible 1 EUR for motorway use. If you transfer between flights at the Capodichino Airport, beware that it is not possible to go from the arrivals directly to the gates, so you have to pass the security control again (it might be possible using the elevators at the baggage retrieval zone, but the path is not clearly marked).

By train

The main station in Naples is 2 Napoli Centrale 1 2 , situated at Garibaldi square and connected to the city's subway system. It's a rather large area with multiple substations (platform groups). Plan 10 minutes reserve if you go there for the first time, so that you find your train in time. Under the same roof, a few hundred meters south-east, there's the

Getting around

Traffic in Naples can be extremely heavy, similar to that of other big cities like Paris and New York. Extensive excavation works are ongoing to complete some metro segments, adding further to traffic in some areas. A typical example is the train station area, which is undergoing a complete makeover (a model of how it will look is observable in the interior of Stazione Centrale), plus the excavation of a metro line connecting it with Capodichino Airport. Another example is Piazza Nicola Amore (commonly known as Piazza Quattro Palazzi because of the four twin buildings surrounding it), where metro line excavations revealed an ancient Roman temple, whose structure will be integrated in the futuristic station designed by the world-class architect Renzo Piano. Normal traffic regulations are generally observed in Naples; however, it is prudent to follow the locals when crossing the street. Since pedestrians often cross the street in the middle of the block, Neapolitan drivers are very attentive, and accidents are very rare. Remember to always look left (and not right) for incoming cars or motorbikes, since circulation follows European standards.

By taxi Taxis and the Metro are the quickest ways to see Naples. Taxis are the most expensive way, though. Before getting into a taxi, make sure it is licensed. Licensed taxis will have a city crest on the door and a taxi number. Also, make sure it has a meter. By law, licensed taxis must display a list of set fares in a number of languages (Italian, English, French, German, Spanish). Check for such fares and agree to them before starting the journey. Moreover, you have to explicitly request whether you want the fixed fare or the meter before starting the journey. All taxis should have a terminal for card payments, but even licensed drivers may push you to pay cash or try to charge more if you pay by card, that's illegal. Some drivers decline to run the meter or hide fixed fares sheet from you when you get in, don't tell you the price, and overcharge you in the end. You can check fares (metered and fixed) at https://www.comune.napoli.it/articolo_tematico/trasporti-mobilita/taxi-e-ncc/taxi/servizio-taxi/ (the official website) or https://www.taxinapoli.it/en/rates/ (one taxi company's website, may be more readable). Note that travels "to suburban" double the fare immediately, there are lots of small charges for calling the taxi by phone or each small luggage piece, rides to/from the airport, and more, the meter won't show these. Fixed fares include almost everything. There are four major taxi companies in Naples, bu

See

As a UNESCO World Heritage site, the historic centre of Naples hosts a huge number of architectural landmarks.

Churches and religious structures

1 Cappella Sansevero. A chapel built in 1590, it contains sculptures and other works of art by some of the leading Italian artists of the 18th century, like the extraordinary Veiled Christ by Giuseppe Sanmartino. It also has a high scientific interest because it hosts the anatomical machines, a still mysterious experiment by Raimondo Di Sangro, a prominent Renaissance scientist. In addition, in the basement there are two human vein models, looking like plastination. Because of the small size, the waiting queue may be longer than at other attractions in Naples. €12 (reductions available). (updated Jan 2026) 2 San Francesco di Paola (Municipio 1 ). One of the main churches in Naples, it's at the west side of Piazza del Plebiscito, the city's main square. The place was planned by King Joachim Murat of Naples (Napoleon's brother-in-law) as a tribute to the emperor. When Napoleon was dispatched, Ferdinand I of Bourbon continued the construction but converted the final product into the church one sees today. The church is reminiscent of the Pantheon in Rome. The façade is fronted by a portico resting on six columns and two Ionic pillars. Inside, the church is circular with two side chapels. The dome is 53 metres high. 3 Gesù Nuovo, Piazza Gesù Nuovo (Dante 1 ), ☏ +39 081 557 8151. M-F 07:00-12:30 and 16:00-19:45. The Church of Gesù Nuovo (New Jesus) was built in 1470 as a palace for Roberto Sanseverino, Prince of Salerno. The Jesuits had already built a church in Naples, now called Gesú Vecchio. Political intrigues caused the property to be confiscated, and eventually sold in the 1580s to the Jesuits to construct a church (1584–1601) under architect Giuseppe Valeriano. The unusual façade, unusually plain for a Baroque style church, is of rusticated ashlar and is the original façade of the palace. The church contains masterpieces of some of the most notable Neapolitan artists: Belisario Corenzio, Paolo de Matteis, Francesco Solimena, Giovanni Lanfranco and Massimo Stanzione. 4 San Domenico Maggiore, Piazza S. Domenico Maggiore, 8A, ☏ +39 081 459 188. 10:00-19:00. One of the most prominent churches of Naples. This Gothic church (est. 1283) incorporates a smaller, original church built on this site in the 10th century, San Michele Arcangelo a Morfisa. The monastery annexed to the church has been the home of prominent names in the history of religion and philosophy. It was the original seat of the University of Na

Do

Theatres

Enjoy classical music in the Neapolitan temple of opera, or other performances such as musicals, comedies and actors' exhibitions in one of the theatres in the historic centre.

1 Real Teatro San Carlo (Royal Theatre of Saint Charles), Via San Carlo, 98/F (Municipio 1 ; beside the Royal Palace.), ☏ +39 081 797 2331, [email protected]. M-Sa 10:00-17:30, Su 10:00-14:00. Founded in 1737, is the oldest continuously active opera house in Europe. In the 18th century, Naples was the capital of European music, and even foreign composers like Hasse, Haydn, Johann Christian Bach and Gluck considered the performance of their compositions at the San Carlo theatre as the goal of their career. Two main Italian opera composers, Gioacchino Rossini and Gaetano Donizetti, were artistic directors of the San Carlo for many years. Other prominent opera composers, like Vincenzo Bellini, Giuseppe Verdi, Giacomo Puccini, Pietro Mascagni, and Leoncavallo, staged here the very first productions of their works (like for example the famous Lucia di Lammermoor by Donizetti). 2 Teatro Bellini (Bellini Theatre), Via Conte di Ruvo, 14 (Museo 1 2 ; two blocks south of National Archaeological Museum), ☏ +39 081 549 1266, [email protected]. 10:30-13:30, 16:00-19:00. Built in 1878 and named after the Sicilian composer Vincenzo Bellini, the Bellini Theatre hosted prestigious events such as operas for almost a century. In 1960s a period of decline started for the structure, that became a sort of cheap movie cinema, away from the splendor of its origins. In 1986 the theatre was restored and reopened two years later, starting a lucky phase that lasts even today. (updated Jun 2018) 3 Teatro Augusteo, Piazzetta Duca d'Aosta (Augusteo Centrale ; in front of Galleria Umberto I), ☏ +39 081 414 243, [email protected]. A theatre designed by Pier Luigi Nervi in 1929 and built inside an 18th-century noble palace, along the central Via Toledo. The structure was closed during World War II and reopened during 1950s as a cinema, until it was finally restored in 1992 to resume its status of elegant theatre. It now has a seating capacity of 1,420 and hosted the performances of famous actors and musicians like Bruce Springsteen. From €34.5 to €46. (updated Jun 2018)

Other

4 Underwater Park of Gaiola (Parco Sommerso di Gaiola), Discesa Gaiola, ☏ +39 081 240 3235, [email protected]. winter daily 10:00-14:00, summer Tu-Su 10:00-16:00. Diving, snorkelling or trip on glass-bottomed boat "Aquavision" in the marine protected area of the minor isla

Buy

Naples has vibrant markets and many small shops that sell everything from clothes to household appliances at prices much lower than in most of Western Europe. Especially to be seen is the 1 Porta Nolana, 2 Pignasecca and the Vasto markets, which also give a grasp of popular Neapolitan life. Don't miss the impromptu fish market which happens especially on Sunday morning at 3 Rotonda Diaz, the central square of Via Caracciolo. Small fishing boats come ashore, and directly sell fresh and often alive fish and octopuses, a very characteristic and joyful scene of Naples' life. Via Chiaia and Via Toledo are two major shopping streets near the city centre. Spaccanapoli in the Centro Storico is packed with street vendors and odd-shops. The small street Via Port'Alba, near Piazza Dante is home to a large number of bookstores. Do not buy any obviously fake items sold in the street, especially fake big fashion firms' products like purses, foulards, sunglasses and so on. A huge number of plainclothes police raid the streets to combat the trade in counterfeit products, and it's not only the sellers who get in trouble: according to Italian law, if you are caught buying one of these products, you risk being arrested and subjected to a huge fine. Also, do not buy electronic products like iPhones, iPads and cameras on the streets. Normally, the ones which illegal street vendors try to sell you are fakes - they show you a real one, and then made a quick switch through sleight of hand. Don't think you can outsmart these scammers. You can support shops and businesses that fight against the extortion racket (also called "pizzo") by shopping there.

Eat

You will find many sauces based on garlic sauteed in extra-virgin olive oil, tomatoes, and local red wines. Some of the sauces are arrabbiata ("angry") or fra diavolo ("brother Devil"), which means they will contain hot pepper. It's a great cuisine. Fresh mozzarella di bufala (mozzarella made from European buffaloes' milk) is also typical of the region.

Pizza

While pizza is a traditional Neapolitan dish, it became ubiquitous in the Italian cuisine only in modern times. Neapolitan pizza is listed by UNESCO as part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. UNESCO recognise two types: pizza margherita, the original one, with tomato, basil, oil and fresh mozzarella toppings; and pizza marinara, with tomato, garlic, oregano and oil. In Naples every pizzeria makes a decent pizza, and Neapolitans believe their pizza is the best in the world. Unlike pizza in, e.g., the United States, Neapolitan pizza is generally very thin-crusted and saucy and is expected to be eaten as a whole while sitting down. Some places display the label Vera Pizza Napoletana ("True Neapolitan Pizza"; there is a Pulcinella mask baking a pizza in a stylized Vesuvio) which indicates that the pizzeria follows the standards of The Naples Pizza Association. Regarding pizzerias near Forcella: It is not the safest part of Naples, although generally OK during the day.

Seafood

Neapolitan cuisine in general features much seafood, befitting its status as an ancient and still functioning port. The most popular fish recipe is Polpo alla lucìana, consisting in octopus cooked in a terracotta pan with tomatoes, garlic, capers, pepper and black olives of Gaeta, served with chopped parsley. The name derives from the ancient fishing port of Borgo of Santa Lucia, now a tourist port close to Castel dell'Ovo. Other important traditional dishes are spaghetti alle vongole, acqua pazza, paccheri with fish soup and anchovies, prepared in various recipes or added on pizza.

Budget Almost all the pizzerias in Via dei Tribunali are very popular among Neapolitans, in particular Di Matteo and Trattoria Don Vincenzo.

1 Di Matteo, Via dei Tribunali, 94 (Centro Storico), ☏ +39 081 455 262, [email protected]. 09:00-00:00. Il presidente, Sorbillo, and his sister, a few doors away (informally known as "la vecchia", the old lady, from the owner of the pizzeria, a very small place with only 4 or 5 tables, that looks like a pizzeria of 50 years ago - very hard to find, but it's worth it!) You can get pizzas to eat on the go. (updated May 2022) 2 Trattoria Don Vincenzo, Via San Biagio dei Librai, 60 (C

Drink & nightlife

Naples is becoming increasingly popular with a younger generation of Italians and foreigners who flood into the city and lend renewed vitality to its nightlife. The hippest scene is around the bars and cafes on Piazza Bellini, Piazza Santa Maria la Nova and Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, becoming busy after 23:00. Also, Piazza San Pasquale and Mergellina are typical places for the local movida. If you want to venture to the outskirts of the city, there are many bars and clubs near the port and boardwalk of Pozzuoli. While Neapolitans (and Vigili Urbani, the town's local police) are largely tolerant to youngsters drinking, having fun and making noise, even at late hours, getting drunk and causing damage or littering is not tolerated. Campanian wine has become famous worldwide in the last decade or so, and delicious naturally lightly carbonated mineral water with minerals from Vesuvius is available and worth searching out.

Coffee Neapolitan coffee is a true specialty, on a par with the world-famous pizza and starting the day drinking a cup of it represents a daily ritual. Preparing an authentic one requires the use of a particular flip coffee pot (locally called cuccumèlla) to obtain the typical intense flavor. Also if not all cafes and bars still use it, the quality of this extraordinary drink is excellent in almost every part of the city.

1 Gran Caffè Gambrinus, Via Chiaia, 1/2 (beside Piazza del Plebiscito and San Carlo Theatre), ☏ +39 081 41 7582, [email protected]. 07:00-01:00. Enjoy the special Neapolitan coffee in one of the most prestigious and famous cafes in Italy. Founded in 1860 in the rear of Palazzo delle Prefettura, the cafe was also known for being a meeting site for intellectuals, artists and politicians. (updated Jun 2018) 2 Caffè Ciorfito, Via San Biagio dei Librai, 90, ☏ +39 081 203 161. M-Sa 06:00-20:00. Taste the authentic Neapolitan coffee and pastries in a welcoming cafe in the heart of the old town, usually visited by Italian actors. (updated Jun 2018) 3 Bar Mexico, Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi, 72 (Garibaldi 1 ; Piazza Garibaldi 2 ), ☏ +39 081 283 121. 05:30-20:30. One of the best coffees you can enjoy in the city, just 50 metres away from central railway station. (updated Jun 2018) 4 Bar Salvo, Via Enrico Alvino, 73 (Vanvitelli 1 ), ☏ +39 081 556 3845. M-Sa 06:30-19:30. Great coffee and pastries in an informal cafe along a pedestrian area in the elegant Vomero quarter. (updated Jun 2018)

Wines and cocktails 5 Enoteca Belledonne, Vico Belledonne a Chiaia, 18, ☏ +39 081 403 162, [email protected]. M 09:00-2

Sleep

Accommodation in Naples is normally cheaper than in Rome or northern Italian cities for comparable quality, and a wide range of accommodations is available.

Budget Many budget accommodation options are around Piazza Garibaldi and the train station, but with care you can find reasonably priced accommodation in more pleasant areas of the city.

1 6 Small Rooms Hostel & Guesthouse, Via Diodato Lioy, 18 (Dante 1 ), ☏ +39 081 790 1378, [email protected]. A great hostel with private rooms in the middle of the historical center of Naples. Clean, cozy and friendly. Cooking facilities, English speaking staff, DVDs, fridges, book exchange, tourist info and maps. It can be difficult to find, so keep their phone number in case you get lost. Il Basso Mini Apartment, Vico Storto Concordia, 6 (Spanish Quarter), ☏ +39 3392924924, [email protected]. Il Basso Mini Apartment offers visitors the chance to experience an authentic Neapolitan “basso”, the traditional ground-floor home typical of the Spanish Quarters. Staying here is a unique cultural experience, allowing travelers to live like a local in one of Naples’ most vibrant and historic neighborhoods, surrounded by narrow streets, local life, and the atmosphere of the Quartieri Spagnoli (updated Sep 2023) 2 Hostel Mancini Naples (hostel pensione mancini), Via Pasquale Stanislao Mancini, 33 (Garibaldi 1 ), ☏ +39 081 553 67 31, fax: +39 081 553 6731, [email protected]. Check-in: 24 hr, check-out: 10:00. Cheap hostel in front of the Central Railway Station in Naples City Centre. Free Wi-Fi and breakfast. Free kitchen for guest use. Beds from €15 and rooms from €35. 3 B&B Naples I Visconti, Via Pasquale Scura, 77 (Dante 1 ), ☏ +39 081 5529 124, [email protected]. New rooms, comfortable, convenient to downtown Naples. Prices from €35 single use. Wi-fi and DVDs. 4 Dei Decumani bed & breakfast, Via Duomo, 187, ☏ +39 081 440 648, [email protected]. One of the best bed and breakfasts in Naples in the historic centre. 5 Giovanni's Home, Via della Sapienza, 43 (Museo 1 ), ☏ +39 081 195 65641, [email protected]. A great little hostel with 1 female dorm and 1 mixed dorm in the historical centre. Clean, cozy and friendly. Cooking facilities, English speaking staff, fridges, book exchange, very useful travel tips and maps. 6 Hostel of the Sun, Via Guglielmo Melisurgo, 15 (Municipio 1 ), ☏ +39 081 420 6393, [email protected]. Refurbished in 2015, and in the centre of town. Clean, friendly and close to the ferries. Open 24 hours. Good kitchen, breakfast included, knowledgeable and mul

Go next

There is fast express train service to Rome and points north, as well as points south. Naples is the ultimate terminus for the FR7 line of the Rome commuter rail network, which runs from Roma Termini to Minturno-Scauri, Sessa Aurunca-Rocca or Naples. There are also local Italian Railway trains to Pompeii, but for such short distances, it is easiest to take the Circumvesuviana commuter train. Naples is often used as a base to visit the ancient ruins and excavations of Herculaneum and Pompeii near the city. It's easy to find ferries to places like Sicily.

Solfatara (12 km). It is a shallow volcanic crater at Pozzuoli, part of the Campi Flegrei volcanic area. It is a dormant volcano, which still emits jets of steam with sulphurous fumes. Herculaneum (13 km). A world-famous archeological site, part of the UNESCO World Heritage list. It was an ancient Roman town destroyed, together with Pompeii, Oplontis and Stabiae, by volcanic pyroclastic flows of Vesuvius, AD 79. It is famous as the source of the first Roman skeletal and physical remains available for study that were located by science, since the Romans almost universally cremated their dead. While smaller than Pompeii, it's just as cool and usually less busy. Pompeii (25 km, 40 minutes via the Circumvesuviana train, Sorrento line). The world-famous city of Pompeii is a partially buried Roman urban center, and one of the best examples of Roman architecture in the world. Along with Herculaneum, Pompeii was destroyed and completely buried during a long catastrophic eruption of the volcano Mount Vesuvius spanning two days in the year AD 79. The eruption buried Pompeii under 4 to 6 m (13 to 20 ft) of ash and pumice, and it was lost for nearly 1700 years before its accidental rediscovery in 1749. Since then, its excavation has provided an extraordinarily detailed insight into the life of a city at the height of the Roman Empire. Today, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the most popular tourist attractions of Italy, with approximately 2,500,000 visitors every year. Visiting the city is a unique experience—you get to walk in and out of most of the ruins, and really get a feel for how the city must've looked in its era. Mount Vesuvius. From Pompeii, take a bus to Mount Vesuvius and hike to the summit. Mount Vesuvius is the only active volcano on the mainland of Europe and is best known for its eruption in AD 79 that led to the burying and destruction of the Roman cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Royal Palace of Caserta (37 km). A former royal residence in Caserta, southern Italy, constructed for the Bou