Mombasa

Understand

Mombasa is Kenya's main tourist destination. It is on the eastern coastline of Kenya, bordering the Indian Ocean which has made it a popular destination for its beaches. Mombasa offers a diverse marine life, world-class hotels and friendly atmosphere. There is a tropical climate all year and it is a great destination filled with activities for all ages. Mombasa is one of the oldest cities in sub-Saharan Africa, and its precise date of founding remains unknown. The first accounts of Mombasa date back to the 12th century, when the Arab geographer Al Idrisi mentioned it as a prosperous trading post in his writings. Pre-colonial Mombasa was a prosperous city state in a region of East Africa known as the Swahili Coast, which also included other city states such as Zanzibar and Kilwa Kisiwani, and a main centre for trade between Africa and the Arab World, with trade routes even going as far as India and China. At different points in history, Mombasa would be ruled by the Portuguese, Arabs and British. The city's culture today still exhibits that of its pasts. Historical ruins like Fort Jesus and the Old Town are attractions that display the history in Mombasa. The central part of the city, Mvita, is an island in a river delta, accessed by bridges and from the south by ferries operating around the clock. It is a very cosmopolitan city, and you can see a group of Muslims wearing niqab (here known as "bui bui") and Giryama people wearing almost nothing at the same time and place. Together with Nairobi, it is the only place in the country that has a status as both city and county.

Orientation The city of Mombasa is divided into four administrative divisions. These are clearly geographically defined and are therefore useful for orientation. As in many other metropolises, it is difficult to distinguish the newer areas from the original city (Mvita). By 2009, 90% of the urban area was built up. And as in all major Sub-Saharan African cities, there are several shantytowns in the suburbs. The largest is Kisauni-Kongowea in Kisauni, and others include Chaani-Magongo and Miritini in Changamwe as well as Mtongwe in Likoni. Most hotels and activities are concentrated on the island of Mvita and along the northern coast in the Kisauni division.

Climate

The climate is tropical with a major rain season between mid-April and late May and a minor wet season in October and November. Being in the Southern Hemisphere, the summer, with temperatures above 32°C, occurs in January and March. At just 4° south of the Equator, the variation in temperature is relatively small.

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Getting there

Mombasa is an important node for all forms of transportation. It is the end of the Trans-African Route 8 from Lagos and of the railway to Uganda. It has an international airport, Moi Airport, and one of Eastern Africa's most important ports, Kilindini, which is also the main port for goods to Uganda, Burundi and Rwanda.

By plane The flight between Nairobi and Mombasa takes some 45 minutes, enough time for a cold drink and a view of the Tsavo East National Park. The flag carrier Kenya Airways, as well as the low-cost airlines Jambojet, and Fly540 (Five Forty Aviation) fly this route. There are direct flights from European cities such as Amsterdam, Brussels, Frankfurt, Milan, Rome, Verona and also from Addis Ababa, Dar es Salaam, Doha, Dubai, Entebbe, Kigali, Istanbul, Moroni, and Zanzibar.

1 Moi International Airport, Road C110, Barack Obama Rd, ☏ +254 716 694306. The airport in Mombasa has been renovated and has increased the frequency of flights in and out of Mombasa from European cities. Moi Airport is the second most important airport in Kenya, after Jomo Kenyatta in Nairobi. It is in Changamwe, 6 km from Mombasa Island to which is linked by the roads 110 (Barack Obama Road) and 109. A Transfer Taxi or ("Tuk-Tuk") is the most common way to get to the city centre from the airport. As of 2018, the fares for a regular taxi ride is between Ksh 1500-3000. Uber or Taxify are much cheaper, while a Tuk-Tuk ride will cost only Ksh 200. You need to walk 300m out from the airport car park to get a Tuk-Tuk .Some hotels offer shuttle services from the airport for a fee. There are also cars to rent. (updated Aug 2018) Money exchange: At the exit from the airport to the right is an ATM, where you can withdraw Kenya Shilling with your card (ensure the card works in Kenya at your bank). This is much cheaper than cash exchange. A bank for exchange is also available at the airport.

2 Bamburi Airport, Off Old Shimo La Tewa Road, Bamburi. The budget carrier Air Kenya Express operates charter flights from Wilson Airport in Nairobi to Bamburi Airport.

By boat

There are three ways to get to Mombasa by boat: by private boat, cruise ship or ferry.

By private boat On Mombasa Island there are two sailing clubs open to non-members and two hotels with marinas open to non-guests.

3 Mombasa Yacht Club, Kilindini Harbour (starboard after Cap Likoni), ☏ +254 733 923429, +254 733 610754. 4 Mombasa Water Sport, Tudor Creek (port side after Cape Makawaiwe). 5 Tudor Water Sport, Tudor Creek (the marina of Tudor Water Sport Hotel, port side after Cape Saadi), ☏ +254 717 5

Getting around

The traffic will likely appear chaotic to a westerner. Traffic laws are not respected, even when police are present.

By minibus There is no regular public transportation network in the city. The closest equivalent are the aforementioned matatus (minivans) of which there are about 3500 (licensed ones have stickers on the windshields) in the city. They're cheap — ask someone at the hotel what the going rate is and don't let them scam you. Don't expect to be comfortable; as the drivers want to take as many passengers as possible, you will often be crammed in like a sardine. A matatu ride starts from Ksh 20 just to go 500m (2018)but count on paying double if you want a vehicle which conforms to the traffic legislation. Certain lines connect Mombasa and Malindi, the ride taking about two hours at a price of Ksh 350.

By tuk-tuk and motorcycle For the more adventurous there are tuk-tuks (motorized trikes with a cabin for the passengers) and boda-bodas (bicycle taxis). The latter is a rather dangerous and scary mode of getting around. The price for a tuk-tuk ride is Ksh 50-100 and boda-boda around Ksh 50. You can get a Tuk-tuk to the new railway station for Ksh250 per person. or 300m from the airport for ksh200 per person.

By taxi Official and unofficial taxis are also available. Taxis don't have taxi signs on the roof, but license papers stuck to the windshields. The ride is in general paid beforehand after some negotiation and you can expect the driver to stop at a service station to fill up just the necessary amount to get you to your destination. A ride from the airport to central Mombasa costs Ksh 1000-3000 (2018). A much cheaper alternative to regular taxis are the shuttle services Uber, Taxify, Little , Mondo Ride, MaraMoja. You can get fares online and thereby avoid getting overcharged, as many taxi drivers like to do to tourists. A cheaper alternative is a shared taxi: Hakuna Mutatu Bus operates on the Kenya Coast and a ride from Mombasa costs roughly Ksh 1000 and takes 1hr 30min. The shared taxi is a door-to-door service, meaning you will be collected from your current accommodation in Mombasa, Kilifi or Watamu and dropped directly at your next accommodation in Diani.

By car It is also possible to rent a car with or without a driver. If you need to get around a lot but are scared of driving, you can usually negotiate fares for longer periods (e.g. one day) with taxi drivers. Do this only after a "test ride", as taxi drivers are not always knowledgeable of the city.

Kenya Red Cross, ☏ +254 41 2224161, +254 725 292000, fax: +254 41 2313

See

Considering Mombasa's action-filled history, surprisingly there are only a handful of sights. The nature and a slew of different activities is what makes Mombasa interesting for visitors. In addition to these, there are a couple of sights within 20-30 km north, west and south of Mombasa. These are listed under #Go next.

1 Fort Jesus, Fort Jesus Rd, ☏ +254 720 650869. Daily 8:30AM-6:30PM. Fort Jesus is the most popular destination in Mombasa. Built between 1593 and 1596 by the Portuguese to protect the port against the Ottomans, this fort was in military use for over three centuries. It got its name from the Portuguese fleet sailing under the flag of the Order of Christ (Ordem de Nosso Senhor Jesus Cristo). The fort is a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2011. Fort Jesus holds artifacts from when Mombasa was a transit port for the slave trade. There are torture rooms, cells, and many other displays from the 16th century. During the British period the fort functioned as a prison and today part of the cells are used as a museum. Many exhibits come from the Portuguese frigate Santo António de Tanna that sank in 1697, including African and Indian pottery, Chinese china, different objects used by the crew and two bronze cannons. Another part of the collection is dedicated to archeological finds from the Kenyan coast. Moreover there are Arabic military equipment, musical instruments and a series of cannons from the 18th and 19th centuries. In the small park next to the entrance there is a 105-mm cannon that belonged to the Imperial German Navy.The Butterfly House is right next to Fort Jesus, so very easy to incorporate into a trip round the Fort and Old Town, but also well worth a visit on its own. Although small, is packed with both beautiful and interesting creatures. You can view butterflies from their larval stage to grown ups. See also evidences of slave trade and an amphitheatre that's being restored. Have a nice view of the LA marina. There is also a small shop. Ksh 1500 (adults), Ksh 750 (kids) as of 2013. 2 Fort St Joseph. Close to the golf course near Mama Ngina Drive, this ruin is probably the oldest fortress on the island built by Arabs. It stood when Vasco Da Gama first came to Mombasa. It is not really impressive but it's a nice viewpoint too and worth a visit. (updated Oct 2017) 3 Old town, Districts of Makadara and Mzizima. Along Tudor Creek north of Fort Jesus, these districts make up the original city. It is an example of typical Swahili architecture with a much more peaceful ambience than the rest of the city. Much of it has been converted i

Do

Beaches and water

Even as the 13½ km of white sand beaches along the coast would tempt you to do nothing but bathing in the sun and the sea, Mombasa also offers other kinds of activities. All beaches in Kisauni offer camel rides and on Jomo Kenyatta Public Beach in Bamburi you can rent bikes too. There are also guided walks on the beaches. There are 3 main beaches north of Mombasa. First is Nyali Beach which is frequented mostly by locals as the water quality is not very good due to the closeness to the town that has no functioning waste water treatment plants. The next is Bamburi Beach. It's a very nice beach with many hotels, resorts, pubs, apartments, shops and beach boys and beach girls looking for tourist company or to sell all kinds of souvenirs. The beach is frequented a lot by locals and tourists. It's the most lively beach of Mombasa with good night live too. Shanzu Beach is the most scenic beach of Mombasa and less frequented than Bamburi Beach. Day and night life is there but less than at Bamburi beach. Further to the North are the beaches of Mtwapa.

1 Wild Waters Amusement Park, Links Road, Nyali, ☏ +254 726 337000, [email protected]. 10AM-6PM. Water amusement park with 15 different toboggans. On hot days this is a good place to cool yourself. The water park is reportedly modern and clean. Other activities on site include a gaming arcade, a "disco arena" and several theme rides as well as food court. With access to toboggans: Ksh 1200, entrance only: Ksh 300.

Diving 2 Mombasa Marine National Park and Marine Reserve, ☏ +254 41 2312744, [email protected]. For divers the main attraction is the Leven coral reef in the Mombasa Marine National Park and Marine Reserve. Including reef crest habitats of the Bamburi-Nyali fringing reef and a part of the lagoon, this is the Kenya's most popular marine park. It has an area of 10 km2 and is part of a larger reserve of 200 km2. There are three wrecks that can be visited. 3 Bouccaner Diving, Mount Kenya Road, Nyali (in Voyager Beach Resort), ☏ +254 728 999226, +254 728 999225, [email protected]. A company organizing diving courses for beginners and intermediate divers and diving trips in the waters outside Mombasa. They have an office on Zanzibar too. 4 Peponi Divers Mombasa, Mount Kenya Road, Nyali (in Bahari Beach Hotel), ☏ +254 722 412302 (also for WhatsApp), [email protected]. Diving school for beginners and intermediate divers and diving tours to several wreck sites. Also specialty courses like shark awareness. Service in several languages.

Fishing You can cat

Buy

Like in all of Africa, haggling is common in small shops. Especially if you are an obvious foreigner, the initial price is usually higher than what is normally paid for the merchandise. Just make sure you don't ask for prices in English. Use the little Swahili you know so as not to overpay. The best places for buying souvenirs are the districts of Kinyozi, Mwembe and Tayari which are surrounding Haile Selassie Road and also Biashara Street (Biashara means "commerce" in Swahili). Specialities include:

kitenge (vitenge in plural): fabrics decorated with colorful motifs for women to be worn around the waist or tied on the head kanga: similar to kitenge but also decorated with a border running along the sides and a written Swahili proverb. kikoi (vikoi in plural): the "kitenge" for men, sometimes made of wool and usually decorated with strips or tartan batik: originating on Java, batik has been known on the Kenyan coast for centuries. The pieces are cloths are woven by hand but not hand painted. Should not be washed in a washing machine. kiondo or chondo (vyondo in plural): handmade handbag with leather trim often beautifully decorated with beads or shells ndala: hand-made sandals made from leather and old tires (for the soles), these stylish shoes are a great souvenir from Mombasa. Local craftsman use colorful beads and pieces of leather to create a vast variety of shapes and decorations. No two pairs are alike. Ksh 500. In the old town you can find stores selling silver jewellery and small furniture handmade in typical Swahili style. Also here, haggling is the rule. There are two important workshops selling their productions directly to customers:

1 Bombolulu Workshops & Cultural Centre (BWCC), Bombolulu Estate, Kisauni, ☏ +254 723 560933, [email protected]. Cultural centre that sells jewellery, leather and textile products as well as wooden sculptures created by one of the 150 artisans with a physical handicap who are working there. Bombolulu Workshops was founded in 1969 and is a project of the Association for the Physically Disabled in Kenya. This centre is a popular attraction for tourists and has 150 disabled employees who create jewellery, textiles, wood and leather crafts. It is the largest rehabilitation centre in Kenya. 2 Akamba Handicraft, Barracks Obama Road, Chaani, ☏ +254 41 3432241, [email protected]. Decorative and useful objects made of sculpted wood. The carvings are hand made and hence each piece is unique. You can see the artisans at work in the shop and there's a showroom with a wide range of exhibits. In the hal

Eat

Mombasa is a cosmopolitan city with Arabic, Chinese, European and Indian influences, and this can be seen in the local cuisine. Many local dishes include coconut, for instance waly ya tui (basmati rice with coconut milk), kuku wa kupaka (chicken with coconut milk) and mahamri (coconut donuts with cardamom).

Budget

Pizzerias and snack bars serving Kenyan cuisine are found in Mvita and places that are frequented by tourists such as the beaches. Many hotels also offer this kind of affordable eating. If you want to try out the Kenyan cuisine in such places, check that the place is overall clean, that it does not smell of old frying oil. Moreover, ask for drinks in unopened bottles, avoid ice and peel any fruits. If you follow these tips you can have a great and affordable meal - Ksh 250 will buy you a large serving and a beer.

Tea salons and ice cream bars 1 Cafe Mocha, Tamarind Road, Kongowea (in the Nyali Cinemax), ☏ +254 775 269326. Daily 4PM-midnight. Tea salon, pastries, ice cream and free Wi-Fi. 2 Pistacchio Café, Meru Rd. Ice cream and coffee bar that also serves buffet lunch.

Self-catering If you who want to prepare your meals yourself, the easiest and most hygienic way is to go to one of the two big supermarkets such as Naivas or Carrefour.

There are two malls in Kisauni:

3 Ratna shopping mall, Nyali Road, Kongowea. M-Sa. 4 City Mall, Malindi Road, Nyali, ☏ +254 41 4477000, +254 711 415415, [email protected]. 24 hours. Large mall with a Carrefour Hypermarket. 5 Kongowea Market, Links Road, Kongowea. 3AM-1PM. Kongowea market is one of the largest in Kenya with over 1500 stalls and an area of 4.75 ha. Worth visiting for its ambiance, colors and smells. Take care with meat products because they are not always what the signs say. If you want to take photos of the vendors and their stalls, ask permission first. Also, pickpockets operate in the market, so don't show your expensive camera or phone more than necessary.

Mid-range 6 Forodhani Restaurant. Very nice, on the edge of the old town directly overlooking the creek (updated Sep 2018) 7 Island Dishes, Kibokoni Rd (in the old town), toll-free: +254 710 712221. Kenyan and North African cuisine. This restaurant has got good reviews for their food. 8 Mubins Cafe, Kisauni Rd. East African cuisine, specializing in barbecue and other meat dishes. Outdoor seating as well. 9 Safari Inn Bar and Restaurant, Serena Road, Shanzu, ☏ +254 722 671475. Daily 9AM-2PM. Kenyan and Swiss cuisine, sandwiches and similar snacks. If you want rösti or fondue while in Mombasa, here they serve it. 10

Drink & nightlife

There are quite a number of good bars, pubs and entertainment spots in Mombasa Town and the North Coast. Nightlife is very vibrant in Mombasa and in the village Mtwapa (15km north of Mombasa, called "the village that never sleeps").

1 Jahazi Coffee House, Ndia Kuu Rd, ☏ +254 726 409436, [email protected]. Daily 8AM-7:30PM. Arabic teas and coffees served hot or cold, fresh fruit juices, snacks. 2 Casablanca Club, Mnazi Moja Rd, ☏ +254 722 867774. Daily, 24 hr. One of the largest clubs in Mombasa, open around the clock. It features two dance floors, four bars and a restaurant. Reservation obligatory. 3 Cheers, Malindi Road, Bamburi beach, ☏ +254 733 628986, [email protected]. Daily 24 hr. Open air bar and disco with cheap beer. Fairly popular for watching sports events on their wide-screen TV. 4 Pirates Beach Club, Jomo Kenyatta Public Beach, Bamburi, ☏ +254 41 5487119. Bar and dancing on the beach. 5 Bob's Bar, Malindi Road, Nyali. Lively and popular bar near Tembo. This bar and grill is where a lot of great nights out get started. One of the few bars that is open until sunrise! 3 bars, one of them has a terrace. Disco. Serves food. 6 Big Tree, Next to Jomo Kenyatta Public Beach Bamburi, Mombasa-Malindi Road, ☏ +254-721-437448. Dance club directly at the sea front with a very good atmosphere and super sexy dance contests. (updated Apr 2016)

Sleep

Hardly a tourist will stay in Mombasa city, but mostly along the beaches of the north or south coast.There is a wide range of accommodation on offer in Mombasa from camping to Backpacker hostels to hotels and villas with all comforts.

Budget C D H Backpackers, Moi avenue off Chembe road (300 yards from tusks monument), ☏ +254 722 364148. Check-in: 1pm, check-out: 10am. Free wifi. A dorm in mombasa city centre. dorm bed Ksh 1000 pp double room KSh 2000.. 1 Tulia House Backpackers, Off Links Road, Nyali (near city mall.), ☏ +254 711 955999, [email protected]. double rooms and dorms for 4 to 10 persons. Free Wi-Fi. Campsite, swimming pool. Dorm bed from Ksh 1300. 2 The Beach Africa Backpackers, Maweni Beach Mtwapa, ☏ +254-720-852327. Dorm bed. Dorm bed Ksh 600. (updated Jun 2018) Diani Backpackers, Diani beach, ☏ +254-0-700-713666. Camping with own tent. Dorm bed. Free Wi-Fi. Swimming pool. camping or dorm bed Ksh 600/1150. (updated Jun 2015) Akogo House Backpackers . Beach Road next to Oswal academy Nyali. +254 718 909559. Double Rooms from Ksh 1300. Free Wi-Fi. Garden. On site coffee shop. Shared kitchen. Diani Hostel, Diani Beach road (900 m from the beach and 1.6 km from colobbus conservation), ☏ +254-720-707777. Check-in: 1pm, check-out: 11am. Free wifi. Swimming pool. Free bicycle rental. On-site restaurant. dorm bed Ksh800 double room Ksh1500.. (updated Jun 2023) Evening Guest House, Mnazi Moja Road, ☏ +254 41 221380. Check-in: noon, check-out: 10am. clean fan Single room with outside bathroom. Free breakfast. WiFi in reception. Free soap. Can put your own padlock on room door. from Ksh 1100. (updated Jun 2023) Marigold Guest House, 00254 Jomo Kenyatta Avenue. (Arrow Plaza First Floor. next to Guishan Restaurant.), ☏ +254-706-590090. Check-in: 1PM, check-out: noon. Fan single/double room with own bathroom, free Wi-Fi. Ksh 1500/2000. (updated May 2023)

Mid-range

In Mvita 3 Hotel Sapphire, Mwembe Tayari Rd. 110 rooms and suites, catering providing food from various traditions and cultures, health club and gym. rates from Ksh 5,600. 4 Lotus Hotel, Cathedral Ln (550m from Fort Jesus), ☏ +254 41 2313207. Singles, doubles and triples, all with bathroom and A/C. Simple but high quality restaurant. Calm hotel with colonial ambiance. 5 PrideInn, Haile Selassie Rd (downtown Mvita), [email protected]. Singles, doubles and triples equipped with kitchen. Conference room. 6 Hotel Radiance, Jomo Kenyatta Ave (downtown Mvita), ☏ +254 41 2490553, +254 734 786001, [email protected]. Singles, doubles and triples, all with bathroom, cable TV

Go next

Nearby

Some points of interest, less than 50 km from central Mombasa, can be visited on day trips.

30 Sacred Mijikenda Kaya Forests (about 30 km north of Mombasa). Inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage Site list. (updated Apr 2026) There are two elephant sanctuaries near Mombasa: 31 Shimba Hills National Reserve (35 km to the southeast), ☏ +254 704 467855, [email protected]. A semi-forested elephant reserve. 32 Mwaluganje Elephant Sanctuary (5 km from Shimba Hills). 33 Diani Beach. The number one beach in Kenya with a lot of beach resorts and with a primate conservation center, about 35 km south of Mombasa. 70 km south is the Msambweni Beach, a touristically untouched part of the coast. 34 Rabai Museum (Krapf Memorial Museum) (15 km northwest of Mombasa). Hosted in the first church built in Kenya, this museum shows the activities of the 19th-century Christian missionaries in the country, in particular Johann Krapf who translated the Bible to Swahili. It is one of the National Museums of Kenya. 35 Jumba Ruins at Mtwapa (20 km northeast of Mombasa). Ruins of a 14th-century village, of which there are no written records. As some of the ruins have functioned as mosques and remains of Chinese porcelain has been found, archeologists believe it has been a trading outpost mainly inhabited by Muslims. The Monsoon restaurant at the beach of Jumba Ruins is definitively worth a visit and a good place to rest after the walk in the ruins. (updated Sep 2016)

Further away Voi 153 km (2 hr by car) - Tsavo East National Park. From Voi it's a little over 100 km to Kilimanjaro, Africa's highest mountain, located in Tanzania. Malindi 116 km (2 hr by car, bus or matatu) - beach activities, the Vasco da Gama pillar where the Portuguese explorer landed Lamu 336 km (5 hr by car, 1 hour by plane) - colonial beach town inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list Nairobi 525 km (7 hr by car, 5 hr by train, 45 min by plane) - Kenya's capital has museums and gardens to visit. Tanga Tanzania 173 km by bus, 4 hours. (Tahmeed, Emirates, Samba buses) Dar es Salaam, Tanzania 515 km (12 hr by bus, 35 min plane) - the former Tanzanian capital offers museums, beaches and markets Long distance busses all have a booking office in Mombasa Road. Matatus also leave in that area. Matatus to northern towns like Malindi leave at the Malindi Kilifi bus terminal close to New Nyali Bridge.