Molenbeek-Saint-Jean

Understand

Molenbeek (French: Molenbeek-Saint-Jean, Dutch: Sint-Jans-Molenbeek; named for patron saint John the Baptist and the Dutch phrase for "mill creek", molen beek) is one of 19 municipalities in the Brussels capital region. In the 9th century, Molenbeek was a small rural village with a church dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. From the late 1700s to the early 20th century, Molenbeek was an industrial centre in suburban Brussels; since then it has gone into steep decline. However, its dense late 19th century housing stock and its close proximity to Brussel South railway station are good preconditions for future gentrification in a similar vein as Berlin-Kreuzberg or other neighborhoods once making headlines as "places where not even police dare enter" in scaremongering media outlets. Anderlecht dates back to 1047, and was a centre of culture in the 15th - 18th centuries. Today it is often best known for its association football team R.S.C. Anderlecht. Forest (Vorst) is home to the Wiels Contemporary Art Centre, several car factories, and Forest National, one of the most popular concert halls in Belgium. Saint-Gilles (Sint-Gillis) has some Art Nouveau houses, and the major railway station Gare du Midi/Zuidstation.

Getting there

By train 1 Bruxelles-Midi / Brussel-Zuid, 47B Avenue Fonsny. Daily 04.00 - 01.00. This station is where the high-speed trains stop. A large station with 12 platforms and 22 tracks. The station is linked to a metro station on lines 2 and 6. (updated Aug 2018)

See

1 Vaartkapoen, Saincteletteplaats (Sainctelette 51 ), [email protected]. 24/7. A sculpture by Flemish artist Tom Frantzen, known from Het Zinneke in Brussels and the Bandundu Water Jazz Band in Tervuren. Its name literally means channel rascal (from vaart meaning canal and kapoen meaning rascal in Dutch. Vaartkapoen is also the name given to people born in the Molenbeek suburb in the first half of the 20th century; the bronze sculpture was erected in 1985. Tom Frantzen stages a scene on 2 levels: the sewers (which used to be discharged into the canal), and the level of the pavement represented by the lamp post, the cobblestones, and the manhole cover. De Vaartkapoen, a young rebel reminiscent of a jack-in-the-box, topples over a policeman, symbolically overthrowing his authority. It is a reference to Belgian comic Tintin by Hergé, who portrays police officers in the same graphical style. (updated Jul 2018) 2 Cantillon Brewery, Rue Gheude - Gheudestraat 56, ☏ +32 2 521-49-28. M-F 08:30-17:00; Sa 10:00-17:00; closed on Sundays and public holidays. The last traditional gueuze/lambic brewery in Brussels, Cantillon still uses natural yeast fermentation (not injected like almost every other beer). The lambics and gueuzes are made in original style with no sweeteners or syrups added. Only 100% bio (organic) and natural fruits are used creating a distinctly sour drink. This museum-esque atmosphere is still a functioning brewery. The tour includes two small glasses of lambic and gueuze, and if you've never had a natural beer before, then you will be (pleasantly) surprised by the taste. An absolute must for beer lovers, save room in your luggage to take bottles back with you! Tour with tasting €10, tasting alone €2. 3 Church of St. Gilles (Église Saint-Gilles/Sint-Gilliskerk), Sint-Gilliskerkstraat (Sint-Gillisvoorplein 48 N12 ). A 19th century church in eclectic style, inspired by Romanesque and Gothic architecture elements, and very popular at the time. The church

Do

Football: RSC Anderlecht play soccer in Pro League, Belgium's top tier. Their home ground is 1 Constant Vanden Stock or Lotto Stadium (capacity 22,500) two km west of city centre. RWD Molenbeek were relegated in 2024 so they play in Challenger Pro League, the second tier. Their 2 Edmond Machtens Stadium (capacity 12,600) is in Saint-Jean district 2 km northwest of city centre.

Buy

1 Sunday Market (Zuidmarkt), Europaesplanade (Zuidstation 2 3 4 6 ). Su 07:00-13:00. The Sunday Market or South Market of Brussels is the largest in Belgium and the 3rd largest in Europe. Ignoring the weather, it gives you the same experience as a market in southern Europe or north Africa. It offers fruits, vegetables, herbs, spices, cheese, fish, and many other foods from domestic suppliers but also foreign produce. Other items include plants, household items, textiles, make-up and jewelry, and a variety of other convenience products. Although you'll likely strike the best deals if you buy in large quantities (per kg), most vendors will also be happy to sell you smaller quantities. Prices drop dead cheap towards the end of the market. Note: the area around the South station has a deserved poor reputation. Don't go alone, keep your belongings close, and watch your back! (updated Jun 2018)

Eat

1 La Friterie de la Barrière, Rue du Parc-Parkstraat (just off the Barrière de St-Gilles/Bareel van Sint-Gillis). Golden and crispy frites just the way they should be. The exterior of this fritkot also serves as a mini-museum with several tracts, articles and other literature on the fronts and sides of the shack on the good ol' Belgian frite. 2 Mamma Roma, Sint-Gillisvoorplein 31 (Sint-Gillisvoorplein 3 4 48 51 N12 ), ☏ +32 2 537 70 38. 12:00-22:00. Small franchise pizzeria for eat-in (bar-style seating) or takeaway, sold by weight. Delicious crunchy base and some unusual toppings (one was spicy with walnuts). Long queues but speedy service, deals available for pizza + drinks. (updated Jul 2018) 3 Snack Pizzeria Porte de Halle, Henri Jasparlaan 134 (Hallepoort 2 3 4 6 51 ), ☏ +32 2 534-0051. 11:00-23:00. The gentlemen running the place speak a little bit of English and serve the best donar kebap and pizza in the neighborhood. The #39-Pizza Porte De Halle is probably their best pizza. Free delivery on orders over €10.

Drink & nightlife

1 Chez Moeder Lambic, Rue Savoiestraat 68 (behind Saint Gilles-Sint-Gillis city hall), ☏ +32 2 503 60 68. M-F 11:00-01:00; Sa Su 11:00-02:00. Has a huge list of different beers, with several hundred obscure beers not likely found anywhere else. This cafe is one of the last remaining old-fashioned brown cafes in Brussels. Beer: 25cl: €4. 2 Brasserie De l'Union, 55 Parvis De Saint-Gilles - Sint-Gillisvoorplein. This is a place with a true "atmosphere", wooden chairs and tables, big old wooden bar, a crowd that reflects the diversity of Saint-Gilles. Everybody is welcome and come as you are. This is a bar that just oozes human warmth and a comfortable ambiance. When the sunny days are coming, the terrace is one of the best in Saint-Gilles. 3 Brasserie Le Verschueren, Parvis de St-Gilles-Sint-Gillisvoorplein 11-13, ☏ +32 2 539-40-68. Something of an institution in hip Saint-Gilles. Under the watchful eye of the portly, bearded deep-voiced owner, hipsters, starving artists and local poodle-brandishing ladies mingle and drink endless beers and coffees. A beautiful woodwork football tableau shows the scores of some long lost second and third division teams from yesteryea