Matsu

Understand

These are small, rural islands, and visitors should prepare accordingly — for example, there are very few ATMs, and there are no official money exchange facilities for travelers heading to or arriving from Mainland China. Many shops do accept Chinese renminbi currency, but often at an unfavorable exchange rate. There is military everywhere. Since each island is essentially a large military fortification with small civilian villages scattered throughout, try not to end up on one of their installations, which they prefer you not take pictures of either. Although controlled by the Taiwan-based Republic of China government, the Matsu islands are officially considered to be part of Fujian province and not part of Taiwan by both the PRC and ROC governments. The culture of the islands is a mix of modern influences from Taiwan and historical influences from Fujian province. The local language is more similar to Fuzhou dialect than to Taiwanese (though almost everyone is fluent in Mandarin too), and close observers will notice a different combination of deities worshiped in temples here than in Taiwan. Those with a keen eye will also notice that the architecture of temples here is similar to Fuzhou-style temples, in contrast to the South Fujian style temples that dominate on the main island of Taiwan. Locals generally identify as "Matsunese" or "Chinese" rather than "Taiwanese". Almost all support closer ties with mainland China over formal Taiwanese independence, and vote accordingly. Matsu is even more opposed to Taiwanese independence than the already deep-Blue Kinmen is because Matsu is not a part of the Min Nan cultural region. That does not mean they want to be unified with mainland China — they are generally proud citizens of the Republic of China. When asked if they're worried that pro-China politicians could allow them to be reunified with mainland China under communist rule, a common refrain is "it'll never happen". That being said, the DPP has made inroads among the younger generation.

Getting there

By boat

Domestic The up-to-date schedule of the regular ferry service can be found on the official website. It is mostly used by military personnel and runs between Matsu and Keelung almost every day.

Keelung to Matsu - The New Taima ferry takes 10 hours and departs nightly from Keelung at 23:00, calling at Dongyin after eight hours and then arriving two hours later at Nangan every other day, or going to Nangan first then Dongyin on the other days. No departures on Tuesdays. Matsu to Keelung - There are day or night ferries available throughout the week. Some will do Nangan–Dongyin–Keelung while others will do Dongyin–Nangan–Keelung. The night ferry is only available once a week (check on the website for the exact day). No departures on Wednesdays. Fares start at NT$1000 one-way for a bunk bed in a dorm, but private rooms are also available at higher prices. Non-sleeper seat tickets for NT$630 each way are ONLY available when all beds have sold out, which normally only happens on long holidays or when flights are canceled. Round-trip discounts are only for groups of 20 people or more. Booking a one-way ticket can be done within 7 days before the ferry departure date, though that's usually unnecessary. Tickets can be bought at the terminals, though ticket desks may not open until about 90 minutes before departure. On Dongyin it's common to buy a ticket the day before from the ticket office in the village next to the post office, or from the desk of the hotel across the square. Schedules can be found on the official website. Bookings can be made at +886 2 2424 6868 or online. Amenities are simple but in good condition: toilets, water fountains (incl boiling water), but no showers. On the New Taima, there is a small shop selling snacks (instant noodles, cake) and drinks (tea, coffee, beers) (only open 07:30-08:30, 10:30-13:30, 21:30-23:30 as of June 2026) and vending machines with snacks and instant noodles. On the (overnight) trip to Matsu, travelers will wake up to the 馬祖頌 (女聲) song, which has become the informal anthem of the islands. On the day of the week that the ferry doesn't run, there is a military transport that reserves some space for locals, but foreign citizens are not allowed on board (you could give it a shot if you have a Taiwan/ROC passport).

International There is also a small daily ferry to mainland China, specifically Mawei, a suburb of Fuzhou. The island itself is called Langqi, and this is also the name used on the Matsu side (with the other mainland ferry going to Huangqi, see below). The ferry costs ¥170 (one-way) from Chin

Getting around

Google Maps and OpenStreetMap now (2026) includes most roads in the Matsu Islands. Unlike in Mainland China, the roads are mapped in their correct GPS positions. Additional transportation information can be found here

By boat Nangan's Fuaogang (Fuao Harbour) is the central terminal for all inter-island ferries. Main routes departing from Nangan include:

Beigan's Baishagang (Baisha Harbour): NT$110. Regular, hourly service starting at 07:00 and ending at 17:10. Dongyin (via Taima Ferry, every other day but not Wednesdays): NT$350. There may be smaller ferries going between Nangan and Dongyin on some other other days - if you're on Dongyin looking to go to Nangan, ask locals or the Taima ticket office about the 小白船 (xiao bai chuan) "little white boat". Jyuguang: 3 sailings per day, departing from Nangan at 07:00, 11:00, and 14:30. The first stop at from Sijyu (even numbered months) or Dongjyu (odd numbered months) at 07:50, 11:50, and 15:20. The other Jyuguang island is the second stop at 08:10, 12:10, and 15:40, returning to Nangan. NT$200. Dongjyu and Sijyu: 4 sailings per day, both directions. NT$80. Locals, students, and elderly get reduced fares. The official website is not available in English (but web browsers now do a decent job at translating...), but lists all the available routes. You can also book your boat online and then pick up the ticket, either at the relevant counter of the departure peer, or on "ibon" machines in 7-Elevens (for a NT$10 fee). In practice, counters (at peers) usually open 10-30 min before departure (no need to show up 2 hours before) and locals tend to buy tickets on the spot, with the reasonable assumption that there'll still be available space (even on busy weekends). Though, to be safe, you can always book in advance online (especially on longer routes, like to and from Keelung, or if you need a specific sailing time, for example to do the Dongju-Xiju combo in one day). You must show your passport to book a ticket. There are automatic ticketing machines in most harbours, but, as of April 2026, they are not working.

By scooter "Scooters" (mopeds) are considered the best way of transportation around the islands. On Beigan's FuAo harbour contact 0933933124 for scooter rentals, or ask at any of the shops/hotels a few hundred metres from the docks. On Nangan, there are rental shops within walking distance of both Baisha Harbour and the airport. At the airport you can ask them to order one for you and they will pick you up. Rent is usually NT$500-600 per day, but you can negotiate for multi-day discounts.

On foot Th

See

The Matsu Islands have been designated an official National Scenic Area by Taiwan's government, and there are extensive interpretive signs and directions posted throughout the islands in Chinese, English, Japanese, and Korean. There is a full list of official sightseeing destinations on the scenic area's official website. Most or all destinations, including former military sites, and be visited completely free of charge.

The Blue Tears (藍眼淚) - an annual bloom of bio-luminescent algae than makes parts of the coastal seawater glow blue at night. This is the islands' most famous attraction among domestic tourists from Taiwan. It starts in early April and continues at least until July, but depends on the weather (locals say it's best on days with a light wind from the south). Iron fort - Built as an outpost manned by special forces near a location vulnerable to water ghosts (Chinese People's Liberation Army frogmen infiltrators), the fort has been decommissioned and opened to tourists. You must travel down a winding road. Few decide to visit this location, and it can be dark going through the bunker. Mazu Temple - The religious center of Matsu, goddess of the sea. Matsu was supposedly buried here once, her personal belongings are interred in the center. The Huge Statue of Matsu. Near the Matsu Temple in Matsu Village is a huge statue of the goddess. Follow directions for Matsu Park and drive up, up, up. Great views of China on a clear day. A bit far from the harbor, but impossible to miss once you get close. Folk Cultural Artifacts Exhibition Hall - Museum sheds light on life and culture on Matsu. Also has AC, so great way to escape the heat. Andong and Beihai tunnels on Dongyin Island - Hollowed out tunnels going in for hundreds of metres, almost like an underground rebel base out of a Star wars movie. Previously used by the military, they are now open to the public. Suicide cliff - Located near Dongyin's lighthouse, a short stairway down to a viewpoint inside a huge crevasse between two granite cliffs, with the other end open to the sea. Dongyong and Dongcyuan lighthouses - Dongyong Lighthouse on Dongyin Island (possibly the other one too?) was built over a hundred years ago by a British architect working for the Qing Dynasty, making it one of the few historic sites that predates the islands' militarization due to the Chinese Civil War. Bird Watching - Due to its proximity to Mainland China, Matsu has some different bird species from Taiwan proper (specialties include the Blue Whistling Thrush, common in the forested areas of Nangan). Dongyin Island i

Do

Circumnavigate your island of choice in a single day, zipping between small villages, abandoned fortifications, and active military facilities while locals and troops eye you with amusement. Visit fortifications dating from the days when the Cold War was hot, and locals and troops hunkered down in bunkers and tunnels to face regular artillery shelling, and the threat of Chinese PLA frogmen infiltrators. See authentic stone houses built in the traditional eastern Fujian-style, dating from the 19th century days when the islands were inhabited by fishermen, merchants, and mariners. Travel from island to island, imagining what it must have been like for a conscript from Taiwan serving when the slogan "Reconquer the Mainland" was still serious business. Meet the 9000 or so locals, who have made these tiny islands their home, where practically everyone knows everyone else. Sample the local kaoliang and laojiou liquors. The Matsu Distillery on Nangan, which makes the sorghum-based kaoliang (pinyin: gaoliang) has a showroom that's popular among domestic tour groups from Taiwan.

Eat

Matsu is famous for its fantastic seafood. Be sure to try superb authentic northern Fujian cuisine at East Fujuin Pearl (22 Matzu village, Nankan) - the specialty is "Buddha Hand clams". Fish noodles (ground fish meat combined with potato starch and salt to form a dough, which is then cut into noodles) is a local specialty - best place is Qinbi village on Beigan. Jiguang pastry - Made from flour and baked in charcoal urns, these pastries resemble bagels in appearance (and slightly so in taste). They were used by General Chi Jiguang in the Ming Dynasty, so that his soldiers could carry their food on strings on their chests during long marches. Golden dumplings: Made from sweet potatoes, with sweet peanut and sugar filling. Served cold with sweet pea soup.

Drink & nightlife

Matsu distills Tunnel 88 brand kaoliang (38 and 58 proof) sorghum liquor, and aged laojiou rice wine (around 30% alcohol). Free tastings and a video about the process at the Matsu distillery on Nangan Island. Dongyin also has its own brand of kaoliang.