Marseille

Understand

Marseille has a complex history. It was founded by the Phoceans (from the Greek city of Phocea) in 600 BC and is one of the oldest cities in Europe. The town is a far cry from the Cézanne paintings and Provençal clichés of sleepy villages, "pétanque" players and Marcel Pagnol novels. With around one million inhabitants, Marseille is the second largest city in France in terms of population and the largest in terms of area. Its population is a real melting pot of different cultures. It is also said that there are more Comorian people in Marseille than in Comoros! Indeed, the people of Marseille have varying ethnic backgrounds, with a lot of Italians and Spaniards having immigrated to the area after the Second World War. For people not afraid to discover a real place with real people, Marseille is the place. From colourful markets (like Noailles market) that will make you feel like you are in Africa, to the Calanques (a natural area of big cliffs falling into the sea - Calanque means fjord), from the Panier area (the oldest place of the town and historically the place where newcomers installed) to the Vieux-Port (old harbor) and the Corniche (a road along the sea) Marseille has definitely a lot to offer. Forget the Canebière, forget the "savon de Marseille" (Marseille soap), forget the clichés, and just have a ride from l'Estaque to Les Goudes. You will not forget it.

1 Office de Tourisme et des Congrès de Marseille (Main Tourist Office), 11, la Canebière, ☏ +33 826 500 500, [email protected]. M-Sa 09:00 - 07:00, Su and holidays 10:00 - 05:00. (updated May 2015)

Climate

The city experiences a Mediterranean climate with cool winters and hot summers. Winters are cooler and windier than in other areas of the French Riviera, but also sunnier (sunshine hours are among the highest in Europe). Spring, on the other hand, features a much faster warm-up than in nearby Nice. Autumn experiences variable temperatures and is generally the cloudiest season of the year. Summers are hot and dry, but the sea breeze moderates the heat and makes it more comfortable.

Getting there

By plane 1 Marseille-Provence International Airport (MRS IATA) (about 30 km from Marseille). Getting to the airport:

Bus. Bus #91 is the easiest way to get to Marseille's city centre. The shuttle leaves approximately every 15-20 minutes, taking 25 minutes and goes directly to the St. Charles bus/train station where you can take the metro or walk to your hotel. The price is €10 for a one-way or €16 for a round-trip (as of May 2022). Buses go to some other directions too. Train. The airport is served by the Vitrolles Marseille Provence Airport train station on the TER network. This train station can be reached in 5 min by bus #13, departing from bus station's platform 5. This TER line serves Marseille and Miramas in one direction, and Arles, Tarascon, Nîmes and Montpellier in the other. Taxi. The airport website indicates the price of €50 for a trip to Marseille during the day and €60 at night.

By train Marseille sees TGV trains from Paris (3 hours) via Lyon (1hr 45min), Nice (2.5 hours) and from Brussels (5 hours). Slower Intercités trains connects with cities not on the TGV network. All trains within France are run by SNCF or for low-cost TGV by Ouigo. Eurostar no longer offers direct service from London but you can book the entire journey with them. It may be cheaper to book the Lille-Marseille leg with Ouigo instead. For travel from Spain, there are daily AVE service operated by a joint venture of the French and Spanish railway companies from Barcelona (4½ hours), and Madrid (8 hours). Alternatively, there are frequent connections to Cerbère and onwards to Barcelona with regional trains. Regional TER are frequent and connects with several nearby cities and can be a cheaper alternative then using TGV trains for shorter journeys.

2 Marseille-Saint-Charles station (Gare de Marseille-Saint-Charles), 1 Sq. Narvik (short, uphill walk from the Canebière and the Old Port which might be inconvenient if you have heavy luggage). Open 04:30-01:00. The main station of Marseille, built in 1927. (updated Jun 2023)

By bus Nice – Buses leave from Nice Gare SNCF at 05:22, 06:23, 08:13, 11:23, 14:23, 15:12, 16:23, 17:40, 18:13, and 19:13, often daily. They take about 3 hr and cost €33. There are additional direct connections from Nice Care Routière Vauban and Nice airport via Aix-en-Provence. See https://zou.maregionsud.fr/ . FlixBus has many connections all over Europe.

Gare Routière St Charles (bus station) (next to the main train station St. Charles; access through Platform N), ☏ +33 4 91 08 16 40, [email protected]. M Tu Th F 07:30-19:00; W Sa Su

Getting around

By bus, tram, métro Marseille is served by a transit system, the Régie des Transports de Marseille (RTM) comprising 2 métro (subway) lines, 3 tram lines and 74 bus lines. Almost every métro station has steps in it somewhere and some will have several flights of stairs. If you have any mobility problems, are in a wheelchair or have a child in a push chair, the trams and buses are a better option. The tickets for bus, tram and métro can be bought in the cafes, at the métro stations, or on the bus; it is advised to buy a 10-journey ticket at €15 (+ 10 cents for the reusable card), which are not sold in the buses. The number of transfers is unlimited (including the return journeys) within the one-hour limit between the first boarding and last transfer on all the network (you must validate with each entry to the bus). The métro runs between 05:00 and 00:30. The tram system operates until 00:30 7 days a week. Most bus routes do not operate after 21:00 or so, although a limited network of night buses (Fluobus) operates with infrequent service (only about every 45–60 minutes or so) until about 00:30 or so. Using a taxi is recommended if you need to travel after 21:00. There is no service at all on 1 May. The Pilote website, includes all the bus, tram and métro schedules but is easier to read than the RTM sites. Moreover, this site repeats the schedules of the majority of transport in common runs of the agglomeration (tram, bus interurban, trains regional) and makes it possible to search for journeys in Marseille and the nearby communes. There is a useful RTM app for both Android and iPhone providing journey planning & timetable info. It is reasonably obvious to use even if you don't speak French. Airport transfers are available by bus for €8.30 each way to/from Gare St Charles. Tickets may be bought at the cabin between Hall 1 and Hall 3/4 of the main terminal and at a separate kiosk in the new Gare Routière, after Voie N in the Gare St Charles. The bus runs every 20 minutes on 10, 30, and 50 minutes past the hour. The ride is about 30 minutes. The bus says Navette Aeroport Gare St Charles on it. From Gare St Charles, the metro can get you to most hotels. A cheaper (€5.70) way to get to Marseille, Gare St Charles is by TER train, there are free shuttle buses to the railway station, the train part of the journey is about 20 minutes. Single tickets allow unlimited transfers onto bus or tram within 1 hour of initial use for the €1.70 fare and one entry (1-hour limit) to the metro. A daily ticket (carte journée) costs €5.20 or 72 hours for €10.80. If you are st

See

1 Vieux Port (old harbour) (Vieux-Port M1 ). Watching fishermen selling their stock by auction is a must. Arriving into Marseille in the Vieux-Port on a summer evening is something you will never forget. You can watch this show by going to Frioul islands or Chateau d'If and going back late in the afternoon. There is also a nice view of the harbour from the Palais du Pharo (Pharo Palace). The famous Canebière avenue goes straight down the harbour. However the Canebière is not that interesting despite its reputation. (updated May 2015) 2 Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde, Rue Fort du Sanctuaire (Bus #60 goes from the Vieux Port to N-D de La Garde. Free Parking at the entrance of the church.). 07:00 - 18:15 in winter, 07:00 - 19:15 in summer. The big church which overlooks the city. Old fishermen used to have their boats blessed in this church. You can still see many boat models hanging around in the church. From there it is one of the nicest view of the city. You can use the tourist train from the Vieux Port to reach the church - you can get off the train, look around and board a later train back to the port. (updated Mar 2018) 3 Abbey of Saint Victor, 3 Rue de l'Abbaye. (updated Mar 2023) 4 L'Hotel de Ville. Marseille City Hall (updated May 2015) 5 Le Panier (Marseille’s old town) (the old town can be easily accessed from the Vieux Port. It is not recommended to drive there). Le Panier (which means basket in French) is the historical centre of the city. This district is characterized by many narrow and steep streets. The tourist office organises a guided tour in English of the Old town every Saturday at 14:00. You can begin your tour from the Vieux-Port and finish at the Mucem or vice versa. A recommended trail of this district is also proposed by the tourist office. (updated Mar 2018) 6 Marseille Cathedral (Cathédrale Sainte-Marie-Majeure de Marseille or Cathédrale de la Major), Place de la Major (walk from the Mucem or take the less frequent bus 82 or 49 (stop at La Major)). 10:00 -19:00. A Byzantine-Roman cathedral at the western side of Le Panier quarter. (updated Mar 2018) 7 La Vieille Charité, 2 Rue de la Charité (at the Northern side of Le Panier quarter. Jules Guesde M2 ). is a wonderful old monument, a former charitable housing for poor, now hosting museums and exhibitions. (updated Mar 2023) 8 Cours Belsunce. (updated May 2015) 9 Place Castellane (Castellane M1 M2 T3 ). With a grand fountain/column/sculpture in the center, with excellent cinemas and cafés surrounding. There is another place called La Castellane: it is a poor suburb of Ma

Do

You can visit the fabulous restaurants and cafes. You can go and do many adventurous things such as diving and hiring boats! The calanques (fjords) between Marseille and La Ciotat are a very popular sports climbing area. And of course, if the weather is fine, you can simply go to the beach!

Stade Vélodrome, 3 boulevard Michelet. Watch football in the home of Olympique de Marseille. They play in Ligue 1, the top tier of French football, and often qualify for European tournaments. The stadium, capacity 67,394, is in St Giniez district 2 km south of the city centre, use Metro station Rond-Point du Prado. Buy match tickets online or from the official shop next to the stadium. 1 Artplexe (Artplexe Canebière), 125 la canebière (cr La Canebière & All Leon Gambetta. Canebière Garibaldi T2 Noailles M2 ). New multi-screen cinema showing some films in VO combined with exhibition spaces and restaurant. (updated Apr 2023) 2 Cinéma l'Alhambra, 2 Rue du Cinéma (Bus# 36, 36B from Bougainville M2 ), [email protected]. Art House Cinema with original 1930s facade out of the city centre. Shows some films in VO (the original language) Adult €6. (updated Nov 2022)

Events The festival Avec le Temps that occurs every spring at the Espace Julien (one of the main concerts halls in town) consists in many concerts of French artists, in many genre (Pop, Chanson, Rock, Folk.) La Fête Bleue, "the Blue Festival" at the end of June. A lot of shows (concerts, movie projections, exhibits) occur in many places in the city, and the theme is the colour blue. La Fête du Panier, at the end of June. During two days, you will be able to see shows, concerts and markets in the oldest area of the town. Le FDAmM or Festival de Danse et des Arts Multiples de Marseille, is the main dance festival in Marseille and lasts all summer. Le festival du Plateau, at the Cours Julien, in September. The music festival Marsatac occurs in the end of September and was created 10 years ago. Artists who performed there were for example Public Enemy, Nouvelle Vague, dEUS, Mogwai, Peaches, Amon Tobin, De La Soul, Laurent Garnier, and Aphex Twin. La Fiesta Des Suds, at the Dock des Suds, in October is a famous festival dedicated to World music. You can attend concerts of artists such as Asian Dub Foundation, Buena Vista Social Club, Cesaria Evora. La Foire aux Santons is a very picturesque Christmas market held from late November near the Canebière and Vieux Port. Provence is the home of santons, terracotta figurines used in nativity scènes known as crèches. Some merchants and many churches display impr

Eat

Unsurprisingly, Marseille's cuisine is focused on fish and seafood. Its two flag-bearing specialities being the famous fish broth "bouillabaisse" and "aïoli", a garlic sauce served with vegetables and dried cod.

La Bouillabaisse de Marseille La bouillabaisse is an excellent fish-based soup served with la rouille (a garlic-saffron sauce) and bread similar to crostini. In fact, Bouillabaisse is a 2-course meal: first you get soup from the pot, then you get the rest, i.e. fish. La bouillabaisse cannot be enjoyed on the cheap. If you are invited to the home of someone making bouillabaisse, then you are in the clear. But never eat cheap bouillabaisse at a restaurant (soupe de poisson, however, is an affordable alternative); only eat bouillabaisse at a place where you have to reserve in advance.

Budget There are lots of Kebab restaurants along the Canebière. Many cheap, authentic couscous eateries are to be found around the Cours Belsunce, where the local Maghrebic immigrants have their lunch.

Around the Basilique Notre-Dame 1 Café Cantine, 17 Pl. Joseph Etienne. This little place has the best food made fresh onsite! Very kind and friendly staff. Fast service, fresh and good products. Very warm welcome and very good homemade meal. (updated May 2022) 2 Sampolo, 14 Av. de la Corse. Sampolo is a nice family place. The dishes and desserts are very tasty and homemade. Great place and great atmosphere in the evening. (updated May 2022) 3 Brasserie Le Saint Victor, 126 Bd de la Corderie. A very friendly neighborhood brasserie with good traditional dishes and caring, fast and efficient staff. The catering is excellent with a wide variety of daily specials. (updated May 2022) 4 Moon Burger, 29 Bd de la Corderie. The quality is exceptional, the products are fresh, the bread is homemade, the meat is succulent. The homemade sauces are top of the line. Also the staff is very warm and attentive. (updated May 2022) 5 Santa Pizza, 88 Rue Sainte. Very good pizza and pasta. Hearty toppings, thin crust, tasty ingredients. (updated May 2022) 6 Perle d'Asie, 29 Rue d'Endoume. A cuisine that makes us rediscover Asian flavors. There is a possibility of having vegetarian spring rolls. (updated May 2022)

In the city centre 7 five pizza original, 11 Rue de la République. Interesting concept, which is very simple: You create your pizza by choosing all the toppings of your pizza with a lot of choice on an electronic terminal. (updated May 2022) 8 Restaurant Le Palmier, 42 Rue Vacon. A very good Tunisian restaurant with a good welcome and a good meal. (updated May 2022) 9 Chez

Drink & nightlife

Lots of new places have opened in Marseille, at night, three main districts are interesting (besides beaches between April and October where people go and spend the night), the Old Port with lots of bars and pubs (particularly on the southern side and on Cours d'Estienne d'Orves, La Plaine/Cours Julien with numerous alternative and underground bars, and La Joliette/J4 with trendy chic new bars and clubs. However La Friche should not be forgotten, particularly during summer when the very large rooftop hosts dj parties for free every Friday and Saturday. For events and concert agenda, see La Nuit Magazine or printed paper Ventilo, particularly during summer as lots of music festivals, boat parties (mini-cruises at night with DJs in the Calanques for €20-40), rooftop parties and concerts take places.

English and Irish pubs O'Brady's Irish Pub, 378, Avenue de Mazargues, ☏ +33 4 91 71 53 71. Su 12:00–01:30; M-Sa 11:00–01:30. Shamrock Irish Pub, 17, Quai de Rive-Neuve, ☏ +33 4 91 33 11 01. (updated Jul 2023) Red Lion cours Julian, 6 Pl. Notre Dame du Mont. Small pub (updated Jul 2023) Red Lion, 231 Av. Pierre Mendès (bus# 19,47). English pub at La Pointe Rouge, southern Marseille, next to the beach. (updated Jul 2023) O'Malleys, 9 Quai de Rive Neuve (less than two minutes away from the aforementioned Shamrock Irish Pub). Often has live music and rugby.

Craft beer Le 143 bar à bières, 143 Rue Sainte, ☏ +33 6 49 49 53 29. Tu-Sa 16:30-01:00, closed Su M. (updated Dec 2022) Beer District Marseille, 4 Rue de la République (Vieux-Port M1 ). Beer Hall (updated Mar 2023) Les BerThoM Marseille, 31 Cr Honoré d'Estienne d'Orves. Modern craft beer bar. (updated Mar 2023) La Cane bière, 32 Bd Philippon (near Cinq Avenues T2 ), ☏ +33 7 69 89 67 19. M-F 08:30-22:00, Sa 10:00-22:00. Enormous selection for such a small place. Confusingly not on the Canebière. (updated Mar 2023) La Brasserie Communale, 57 Cr Julien (Notre-Dame du Mont M2 ). Su M 17:00-01:00, Tu-Sa 11:00-02:00. Microbrewery serving locally brewed beers (updated Apr 2023) 1 Bière Academy, 22 rue Beauvau Marseille (Vieux Port M1 ). Craft beer bar a few streets away from the old port. (updated Jul 2023)

Arty bars Polikarpov, 24 Cours Honoré d'Estienne d'Orves, ☏ +33 4 91 52 70 30. Lively and good value late bar with outside terrace. Does a wide range of cocktails and one of the cheaper places for beer. Le Marengo, 45 Rue Sainte Françoise, ☏ +33 4 91 91 56 49. In "Le Panier", a nice terrace with a nice atmosphere E-wine: on Le Cours Julien, small bar with terrace where some local house

Sleep

Budget Hello Marseille Hostel, 12 rue de Breteuil, ☏ +33 9 54 80 75 05, [email protected]. It's in a safe area in the very center of Marseille, the “Vieux Port”. They offer large shared rooms (with lockers) accommodating 6 people for the single price of €20. 24/7 reception & security. multilingual staff, no curfew; Online booking and reservation. Breakfast offered (French baguette, butter & marmalade, fruit, coffee); Linens included. Services: laundry, luggage storage, printer, free city bikes spot; free Wi-fi, computer available in lobby. Sunny balcony, cosy lounge, guest kitchen, large TV with international channels. Hotel Lutetia. From €60. Between the St Charles Train Station and the old port +33 491 508 178. A renovated hostel with free internet, great atmosphere, and friendly staff. 1 Auberge de Jeunesse Marseille - Bois Luzy, Allée des Primevères (1 km north ofLa Fourragère M1 , bus #9 Félibres Aiguillette till around 21:00), ☏ +33 4 91 49 06 18, [email protected]. reception 09:00 - 10:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Closed from Late November to the start of March. The hostel is in a château north of the city centre, about 15 minutes walk from the Metro station. Beautiful views across the city. 22-40 per per person per night. (updated Oct 2022) Adagio Marseille Prado Plage, 46 rue des Mousses, ☏ +33 4 912 297 00. Completely renovated, the residence is in the heart of the Le Prado quarter, 100 metres from the beach, easy to get to via the Avenue du Prado or the Corniche. It lies in a quiet residential area close to a large number of restaurants and the Palais des Congrès. This site can accommodate people with reduced mobility (minor disabilities, elderly people) with an able-bodied escort and families with young children. (updated May 2016) Hotel Kyriad Rabatau, Boulevard Rabatau Daniel Matalon 162 (Distance from Vieux-Port 3 km), ☏ +33 4 91 80 31 00, [email protected]. Clean basic hotel. Room includes air-conditioner, bathroom and water boiler. Nearest metro station Sainte-Marguerite Dromel is situated 1.2 km from hotel to south. Greet Hotel Marseille Centre Saint Charles, 4 Allee Leon Gambetta. Check-in: 12, check-out: 11. Newish Eco brand from Accor with a different look & feel inside. Friendly staff. Close to transport connections. (updated Jul 2023)

Mid-range New Hotel has four different hotels in Marseille tailored to individual needs. For a quiet and greenery stay, the New Hotel Bompard is particularly suitable, while being close to the city center. Hotel La résidence du Vieux Port Marseille. Completely reno

Go next

Aix-en-Provence: Easily reached by Cartreize coach or SNCF train. There is a dedicated express coach from St Charles station which takes 30–40 minutes. Cassis: attractive sea resort south-east of Marseille.