Lyon

Understand

Founded by the Romans, with many preserved historical areas, Lyon is the archetype of the heritage city, as recognised by UNESCO. Lyon is a vibrant metropolis which starts to make the most out of its unique architectural, cultural and gastronomic heritage, its dynamic demographics and economy and its strategic location between Northern and Southern Europe. It is more and more open to the world, with an increasing number of students and international events. The city has about 470,000 inhabitants. However, the direct influence of the city extends well over its administrative borders. The figure which should be compared to the population of other major metropolises is the population of Greater Lyon (which includes 57 towns or communes): about 1,200,000. Lyon and its metropolitan area are rapidly growing and getting younger, because of their economic attractiveness.

History All periods of Lyon's 2,000-year history have left visible traces in the city's architectural and cultural heritage, from Roman ruins to Renaissance palaces to contemporary skyscrapers. It never went through a major disaster (earthquake, fire, extensive bombing) or a complete redesign by urban planners. Very few cities in the world boast such diversity in their urban structure and architecture.

Early traces of settlement date back to 12,000 BC but there is no evidence of continuous occupation prior to the Roman era. Lugdunum, the Roman name of the city, was officially founded in 43 BC by Lucius Munatius Plancus, then Governor of Gaul. The first Roman settlements were on Fourvière hill, and the first inhabitants were probably veterans of Caesar's war campaigns. The development of the city was boosted by its strategic location and it was promoted Capital of Gauls in 27 BC by General Agrippa, emperor Augustus's son-in-law and minister. Large carriageways were then built, providing easy access from all parts of Gaul. Lugdunum became one of the most prominent administrative, economic and financial centres in Gaul, along with Narbonne. Emperor Claudius, who reigned from 41 to 54 AD, was born here, on 10 BC, when his father Drusus was Governor of Gaul. The main period of peace and prosperity of the Roman city was between 69 and 192 AD. The population at that time is estimated between 50,000 and 80,000. Lugdunum consisted of four populated areas: the top of Fourvière hill, the slopes of Croix-Rousse around the Amphithéâtre des Trois Gaules, the Canabae (around where Place Bellecour is today) and the right bank of the Saône river, mainly in what is today St Georges neighbourhood. Lugdunum was

Getting there

By plane

1 Lyon–Saint-Exupéry Airport (LYS IATA, formerly known as Lyon–Satolas), Rue de Grèce, Colombier-Saugnieu (some 25 km east of Lyon), ☏ +33 4 26 007 007. A rapidly developing airport. It hosts few intercontinental flights (Dubai, North Africa), but can easily be reached via a European hub (Paris, London, Frankfurt). Air France serves most airports in France and major European airports. EasyJet serves a number of destinations in Europe, including London, Berlin, Brussels, Rome, Edinburgh and Madrid, along with a few domestic destinations which are not easily reached by train (Bordeaux, Toulouse, Nice). Most other major European airlines also operate flights between Lyon and their respective hubs. Getting from the airport into Lyon:

RhônExpress. The airport is linked to the city centre through what is termed a "light rail line", but feels like a tram. Travel time is under 30 min, making this the fastest and most reliable way to reach Lyon by public transport. Rhônexpress connects in the city at the main Lyon Part-Dieu station. There are two stops along the way, including one connecting with the metro (line A) at Vaulx-en-Velin La Soie (second stop), which is convenient if you are staying in Presqu'île or Villeurbanne. The train provides power sockets and free WiFi. Trains run between 04:25 and 00:00 and depart every 15 min (06:00-21:00) to 30 min, every day of the year. Tickets for adults are eye wateringly expensive at €17.10/29.80 single/return for adults, €10.50/19.90 for youths 12-25. There are small discounts for tickets online in advance, and there's also a €4 surcharge for buying on board. Tickets are free if you are under 12 or are connecting to a TGV service at the airport. To find the station in the airport, follow the red signs in the terminals. You have to walk through the TGV station, which can be as long as 10 minutes if you arrive at Terminal 3 (low-cost airlines). To reach the platform (not to be confused with the general railway) leave the terminal building and take the escalator downwards. Bus. Local buses serve the airport. The airport is in ticketing zone 2. See timetables here. Bus 47 goes from the airport half hourly (06.30-22.00) to Meyzieu Z.I, where you can pick up tram number 3 to the centre. Alternatively bus C200 runs to the eastern end of A . These cost a grand total of €2.10 per person, against €16 for the RhônExpress Taxi. If you don't want to bother with public transportation, you can take a taxi. Taxis are found outside Terminal 1 (follow the signs). Around €40-50 depending on the exact destination, so if you

Getting around

On foot The city centre is not so big and most attractions can be reached from each other on foot. The walk from Place des Terreaux to Place Bellecour, for example, is about 20 min. The rule of thumb is that metro stations are generally about 10 min walk apart. Be careful when crossing major axes: traffic is dense and running red lights is a very popular sport.

By public transport Lyon's public transportation system, known as TCL, is regarded as one of the most efficient in the country. Central areas are very well served; so are the campuses and eastern suburbs, where many jobs are concentrated. The western suburbs are more residential and can be difficult to reach. As everywhere in France, the network can be perturbed by strikes from time to time. The network is divided into 6 fare zones 1-5 plus an external zone. Zones 1 & 2 cover the central areas including all the métro. By far the easiest way to travel is to tap on with any contactless bank card (Visa, Mastercard, CB), including Google/Apple Pay. As of 2026, you will be charged €2.10 per 1-hr journey, up to a cap of €6.30/day. Journeys include unlimited transfers between all modes of transport. If this is not an option, you can buy a rechargeable ticket for €0.20 at any TCL vending machine or office (agences TCL), then use it for loading single tickets or 24/48/72h tickets (from €6.50). A "booklet" (carnet) of 10 singles costs €19.50 and can be used by groups. Tickets can be purchased from vending machines in the stations, but the only payment methods accepted are credit/debit cards and coins; paper money is not accepted. Tobacco shops and newsagents showing a "TCL" sign also sell tickets. Single tickets can be purchased from bus drivers but the price is €2.30 in that case. Group tickets are available from the tourist office, as is the Lyon City Pass, which gives unlimited travel and free admission to many museums. Weekly and monthly passes are only available to residents. Make sure to validate your ticket every time you board a bus or tram, even when transferring, or else you could be fined. Look for a grey machine near the doors. There are four métro (subway) lines (A to D). Trains generally run every 2 to 10 minutes, depending on the line and the time. Information screens above the platforms display the waiting times for the next two trains and useful information such as delays, upcoming closures, etc. (in French).

Line A (Perrache — Vaulx-en-Velin La Soie) serves Presqu'île, the neighbourhoods around Parc de la Tête d'Or and then runs under Cours Émile Zola, Villeurbanne's main artery. T

See

Lyon may not have world-famous monuments such as the Eiffel tower or the Statue of Liberty, but it offers very diverse neighbourhoods which are interesting to walk around in and which hide architectural marvels. As time goes by, the city also becomes more and more welcoming for pedestrians and cyclists. So a good way to explore it may be to get lost somewhere and enjoy what comes up, and not to always follow the guide... A good point for visitors is that most attractions will not cost you a cent: churches, traboules, parks, etc. For those intending to visit several museums (which are almost the only attractions you cannot see for free), the Lyon City Card may be of interest. Available from the Tourist office and some hotels, it costs €29 for one day, €39 for 2 days, €49 for 3 days, and €59 for 4 days (10% discount if you order online and pick-up). It includes unlimited rides on the public transport network, free or reduced entry fee to major museums and exhibitions and one guided tour per day per person (Vieux Lyon, Croix-Rousse, etc.). The price is still a bit high, so count before you buy to see if this is a good deal considering your plans. Do not hesitate to buy a detailed map with a street index from a book shop or a newsagent; many places of interest or good restaurants are in small streets that you will not find on simplified maps, such as the ones you can get from the Tourist office. Whatever the time of year (except for the Fête des Lumières), tourists are not very numerous yet, but they concentrate in a few small areas, especially Fourvière and Vieux Lyon, where the pedestrian streets are just as crowded as the Champs-Élysées sidewalks on sunny weekends.

Highlights The view from Fourvière basilica, and the basilica itself. Streets and traboules in Vieux Lyon, St Jean cathedral. Traboules in Croix-Rousse. Musée Gadagne. Parc de la Tête d'Or. Off the beaten path:

Musée urbain Tony Garnier and États-Unis neighbourhood. St Irénée church, Montée du Gourguillon, St Georges neighbourhood. A drink on Place Sathonay. St Bruno church. Parc de Gerland. Gratte-ciel neighbourhood in Villeurbanne.

Vieux Lyon

After Venice, the Old Lyon, a narrow strip along the right bank of the Saône, is the largest Renaissance area in Europe (well, it's actually far behind Venice). Its current organization, with narrow streets mainly parallel to the river, dates back to the Middle Ages. The buildings were erected between the 15th and the 17th centuries, notably by wealthy Italian, Flemish and German merchants who settled in Lyon where four fairs were held each year.

Do

Cultural events are listed by the weekly magazine Le Petit Bulletin (free, available in cinemas, theatres, some bars, etc. and online). Early booking is often necessary for the major institutions (Auditorium, opera house, Célestins and Croix-Rousse theatres). The big names sell out months in advance. Unlike London or New York, there is no place in Lyon where you can buy reduced-price tickets for same day shows. (There used to be one but it was very short-lived, possibly because it had too few seats to sell.)

Music, dancing and opera Auditorium, 84 rue de Bonnel (M: Part-Dieu), ☏ +33 4 78 95 95 95. The Lyon National Orchestra plays in this impressive, modern concert hall which also hosts some jazz and world music concerts. Opera house, 1 place de la Comédie (M: Hôtel de Ville), ☏ +33 4 72 00 45 00. The old opera house was completely redesigned by Jean Nouvel in the 1990s and hosts opera and dancing shows, along with a few other concerts (especially jazz) in the smaller "Amphithéâtre" room. Transbordeur, boulevard Stalingrad, Villeurbanne (B: C1-Palais des Congrès), ☏ +33 4 78 93 08 33. The medium-sized hall (capacity 1,500) for rock or popular music concerts. Ninkasi, 267 rue Marcel Mérieux (M: Stade de Gerland), ☏ +33 4 72 76 89 00. This is a modern-day institution in Lyon. Ninkasi has two places for live music: Kafé (free shows, essentially electronic music) and Kao (a concert hall dedicated to rock and electronic music). It is also a beer brewery and has bars all over the Presqu'île, and also in Villeurbanne. Maison de la Danse, 8 avenue Jean Mermoz (T: Bachut), ☏ +33 4 72 78 18 18. A theatre dedicated to modern dancing. Also a fine example of architecture of the 1960s.

Theatre Lyon has a large number of theatres ranging from tiny "cafés-théâtres" to big municipal institutions. You can enjoy any type of show from comedy to classical drama to avant-garde productions.

Théâtre des Célestins, Place des Célestins (M: Bellecour), ☏ +33 4 72 77 40 00. The historical theatre, in a beautiful 19th century building by Gaspard André. Serious programme. Théâtre de la Croix-Rousse, place Joannès Ambre (M: Hénon), ☏ +33 4 78 27 90 42. 'The other' theatre, with a more avant-garde programme. TNP, 8 place Lazare Goujon, Villeurbanne (M: Gratte-Ciel), ☏ +33 4 78 03 30 00. Jean Vilar's spirit of 'popular theatre' lives on in the historically left-wing Villeurbanne. . Théâtre Tête d'Or, 60 avenue du Maréchal de Saxe (B: C3-Saxe-Lafayette / T: Saxe-Préfecture / M: Place Guichard), ☏ +33 4 78 62 96 73. This is the only theatre in Lyon showing popular c

Buy

The signature souvenir from Lyon is the praline rose, a simple, sugary confection of candied almonds dyed shocking pink, sold by every bakery, chocolatier and souvenir shop in town. Less portable but more tasty are any of a number of pastries like tarte aux pralines that incorporate them.

1 Pralus, 27 Rue Saint-Jean (M: Vieux-Lyon). Daily 8:30-19:00. Chocolatier famed for inventing the Praluline, a decadent, buttery brioche generously studded with pink pralines. There's almost always a line outside, but it moves fast. Even the "petite" (€6.60) serves four. Pralus has other outlets but the Vieux-Lyon branch is the only one open every day. The usual hours for downtown shopping are 10:00-19:00, Monday to Saturday. Some larger places close a bit later (19:30). Shops are closed on Sundays, except in December and in Vieux Lyon where Sunday is the busiest day of the week!

2 La Part-Dieu, Boulevard Vivier-Merle (M: Part-Dieu). M-Sa 10:00-20:00. A huge shopping mall (the largest downtown mall in Europe) on four levels, with most major fashion brands. Avoid Saturday afternoons, the place is awfully crowded. 3 Rue de la République (M: Cordeliers/Bellecour). This pedestrian street is the main downtown shopping spot. Also check out Rue du Président Edouard Herriot (more expensive in general) and Rue de Brest; these three streets run parallel to each other along Presqu'île. Rue du Président Edouard Herriot, rue Gasparin, rue Émile Zola, rue des Archers (M: Bellecour). In the "golden square" between Place Bellecour and Place des Jacobins, you will find a number of famous luxury brands. 4 Rue Victor Hugo (M: Bellecour/Ampère Victor Hugo/Perrache). Brand names and tourist traps south of Bellecour. 5 Rue Auguste Comte (M: Bellecour/Ampère Victor Hugo). Parallel to rue Victor Hugo, this is where you will find most antique shops in Lyon. Carré de Soie, Avenue de Böhlen, Vaulx-en-Velin (M/T: Vaulx-en-Velin La Soie). M-Sa 10:00-19:30, some stores open Su. Shopping mall with fashion stores, restaurants and a cinema multiplex, in a developing suburban area. 6 Confluence, 7 rue Paul Montrochet (T: Hôtel de Région-Montrochet). M-Sa 10:00-20:00, some stores open Su. Shopping mall with fashion stores, restaurants and a cinema multiplex, in a new area.

Food

7 Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, 102 cours Lafayette (B: C3-Halles Paul Bocuse, M/T: Part-Dieu). Tu-Sa 07:00-12:00 and 15:00-19:00, Su 07:00-12:00. The Halles moved to the Part-Dieu area in 1971. If you want the very best food, this is the place to go. It has a price however. 8 Croix-Rousse market, Boulevard de la C

Eat

Restaurants have their menus with prices displayed outside. As everywhere in France, the prices always include service, bread and tap water (ask for a carafe of water). Tipping is rare and only expected if you are particularly satisfied with the service. This is especially true in budget or mid-range restaurants, maybe less so in expensive places where it may be considered more appropriate; nothing is compulsory, though. Typical tips depend, of course, on the price of the menu and your level of satisfaction but they are generally not as high as in the US, for example. If you pay by credit card and wish to add a tip, you can tell the person in charge how much he/she should charge your card. Meal times are generally 12:00–14:00 for lunch and 19:30–22:00 for dinner. Visitors from areas such as North America and Northern Europe might be surprised to find many places still closed at their usual dinner times. Places offering all-day service are to be found in tourist areas, and are unlikely to serve quality fresh food. Late-night service is quite rare in quality restaurants, but you can always get the usual fast-food or kebab.

The traditional restaurants in Lyon are called bouchons; the origin of the word is unclear (it literally means "cork"). They appeared at the end of the 19th century and flourished in the 1930s, when the economic crisis forced wealthy families to fire their cooks, who opened their own restaurants for a working-class clientele. These women are referred to as mères (mothers); the most famous of them, Eugénie Brazier, became one of the first chefs to be awarded three stars (the highest ranking) by the famous Michelin gastronomic guide. She also had a young apprentice called Paul Bocuse. Eating in a good bouchon is certainly a must-do. They serve the typical local dishes, many of which make good use of affordable ingredients like offal:

Salade lyonnaise (Lyon salad): green salad with bacon cubes, croutons and a poached egg Saucisson chaud: a hot, boiled sausage; can be cooked with red wine (saucisson beaujolais) or in a bun (saucisson brioché) Quenelle de brochet: dumpling made of flour and egg with pike fish and a crayfish sauce (Nantua sauce) Tablier de sapeur: marinated tripes coated with breadcrumbs then fried, even locals often hesitate before trying it Andouillette: sausage made with coarsely chopped tripe, usually served with a mustard sauce. A famously smelly acquired taste. Gratin dauphinois: the traditional side dish, oven-cooked sliced potatoes with cream Cervelle de canut: fresh cheese with garlic and herbs. (Cervelle means brai

Drink & nightlife

Lyon offers some nice nightlife. A good starting point is Place des Terreaux and then upwards towards the Croix Rousse (M/B: Hôtel de Ville - Louis Pardel, 1th arr). In the streets that climb the hill there are many nice places. These is also numerous bars in pedestrian streets of Le Vieux Lyon (the Old Lyon), all around St-Jean Cathedral (M: Vieux Lyon, 5th arr).

English and Irish pubs Foreign students often gather in English or Irish pubs, which are more particularly concentrated in the Vieux Lyon area. English-speaking staff everywhere, of course.

1 Kelly's Pub, 12 quai Romain Rolland (M : Vieux Lyon), ☏ +33 4 78 85 53 31, [email protected]. 15:00-03:00 daily. Irish pub, live music on Saturday, Irish music sessions on Thursday, quiz every Monday, pool, darts, Irish and English pub food, air conditioning. 2 Paddy's Corner, 4 rue de la Terrasse (M: Croix-Rousse), ☏ +33 9 52 11 21 76. 09:00-02:00. Perfect little pub in the Croix-Rousse area, off the beaten track. Live music sessions every Thursday, Pub Quiz on Tuesdays. 3 Johnny Walsh's, 56 rue St Georges (M: Vieux Lyon), ☏ +33 4 78 42 98 76. Tu-Th 19:00-02:00, F-Su 19:00-03:00. Nice, authentic Irish pub with good music and some live performances. 4 Wallace, 2 rue Octavio Mey (B: C3-Gare St Paul), ☏ +33 4 72 00 23 91. Daily 11:00-03:00. Comfortable beer and whisky bar with a nice terrace, live sports, pub quiz on Thursdays. 5 The Smoking Dog, 16 rue Lainerie (B: C3-Gare St Paul), ☏ +33 9 64 06 68 90. English pub. Pub quiz on Tuesdays. Air conditioning.

Live music 6 Hot Club de Lyon, 26 rue Lanterne (M: Hôtel de Ville), ☏ +33 3 78 39 54 74 (at night). Tu-Th 21:30; F Sa 22:00. Jazz club (since 1948), in an old typical cellar, with good live jazz 5 nights/week.

Others 7 L'Abreuvoir, 18 rue Ste Catherine (M: Hôtel de Ville), ☏ +33 4 78 30 17 90. Daily 17:00-01:00. There you can join some crazy French listening to crazy French music. Definitely an experience, though not everyone's cup of tea. Le Perroquet Bourré (The Drunk Parrot), 18 Rue Saint Catherine. Cheap rum, the inside is decorated as a pirate ship. Le Fruit Defendu, Rue Chavanne. A great little hole-in-the-wall bar, good for beers and cocktails, and a great place to start the night! Try the Stella with a shot of orange liquor!

Boats At the quai Albert Augagneur is another centre of Lyon nightlife. Along the Rhone river are several out of duty riverboats (péniches) that serve as nightclubs or bars.

Sirius, 21 quai Augagneur. Live events almost every day of the week. On weekends, there are two dancefloors with all kinds

Sleep

It is generally not difficult to find a hotel room in Lyon, except for the Fête des Lumières and during some important professional trade shows like SIRHA (food, hotels and restaurants) and POLLUTEC (environment technology), when every last room in and around Lyon is booked. The dates of those events can be found on the exhibition centre's website. You can find hotels from the major chains, such as Sofitel, Hilton, Best Western, Accor, as well as many independent hotels.

Budget 1 Hôtel Vaubecour, 28 rue Vaubecour (2nd arrondissement), 2nd floor, ☏ +33 4 78 37 44 91, [email protected]. Clean, quiet and friendly hotel with small bedroom and modern bathroom. No air conditioning. Double €89. Auberge de Jeunesse de Vieux Lyon (youth hostel) (Take the metro to Vieux Lyon station then the funicular to Place des Minimes (otherwise a serious hike up a steep hill).). Belongs to YHA (international youth hostels association). Bunk bed in a dorm, plus breakfast for €21 (plus fee, if not member of YHA). Excellent views over city. Tiny kitchen, extremely limited rooms for couples/families. Keeps with the Catholic 1900s tradition of no gender-mixed rooms. No telephone bookings. 2 Camping des Barolles, 88, Avenue Maréchal Foch, 69230 Saint Genis Laval (motorway A450, junction 6b), ☏ +33 4 78 56 05 56, [email protected]. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Campsite caters for camper vans, chalets and free camping. There is a small shop at reception. It is a couple of minutes' drive from a large shopping centre. To get to Lyon by public transport, take bus 78 to Oullins and then change to the metro. Friendly staff. Free Wi-Fi. e.g. One adult/one child/one tent/one car = €19 (June 2016). (updated Jul 2016)

Mid-range 3 Citadines Part-Dieu Lyon, 91-95, rue Moncey, ☏ +04 78 14 90 00, fax: +04 78 60 50 74, [email protected]. Housing 98 flats over 7 floors, varying from studios to one-bedrooms; Each apartment has a bathroom with a hairdryer, a separate kitchen area, TV with satellite channels and a direct-line phone. Daily rates starts from €170. 4 Hotel Victoria, 3, rue Delandine (Behind Perrache Station opposite Brasserie George), ☏ +33 4 78 37 57 61, fax: +33 4 78 42 91 07, [email protected]. This place is unpretentious and satisfactory. Reasonable value accommodation in a handy location with a friendly welcome. €45-55. 5 Hotel Saint Paul, 6 rue Lainerie (B: C3/Gare St Paul), ☏ +33 4 78 28 13 29. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. This 2-star hotel offers rather small rooms but very good service and cleanliness. Good value

Go next

Thanks to its central geographical position and its historical role as a trading hub, Lyon is at the centre of a dense communications hub and thus is a great starting point to explore southeastern France. Most destinations around Lyon are served by regional trains of the TER Rhône-Alpes network. The extensive highway network in the region also allows for quick and efficient travel. Plenty of interesting cities, attractions and natural sites can be reached in less than 2 hours of travel! A more detailed listing can be found at the regional tourist office.

Nearby

The Grand parc de Miribel-Jonage, just outside Lyon, is a large park (more than 24 km2 (9.3 sq mi)) including a lake near the Rhône river where you can indulge in many recreational (hiking, horse riding, biking, golf) and nautical activities (rowing, swimming, windsurfing, boating). There are several beaches, large stretches of forest, plenty of picnic and barbecue spots. It is a popular destination for locals, especially during summer when it gets too hot in the city. Entrance is free. Access is possible by bike from Lyon, using the bike path that runs along the Rhône (it takes about 20 min from the Tête d'Or park – follow the ViaRhôna signs). Also, during the spring and summer months, the area is served by bus line 83 of the TCL, from the Vaulx-en-Velin La Soie station (metro line A, tram T3). North of Lyon lies the Dombes region of the Ain département. Its many lakes and ponds provide a nice setting for hiking and birdwatching. The main attractions are the bird park of Villars-les-Dombes, featuring a large collection of exotic birds, and Pérouges, a small medieval village. Its buildings all date to the Middle Ages and it's a popular weekend destination for people who live in Lyon.

The famous wineyards of the Beaujolais stretch all the way to the north of the département. There are many castles and you can buy Beaujolais wine directly from independent winemakers. Festive celebrations are organized during the Beaujolais nouveau season in November. The local villages have an interesting typical architecture, their buildings being made with a local yellow limestone called pierres dorées. Take the A6 highway north of Lyon to Belleville then follow some smaller roads. Interesting spots in Oingt, Villié-Morgon.

Vienne (city), 30 km south of Lyon, is famous for its international jazz festival organized every summer. It also features many medieval and Roman buildings. There is also a large archaeological museum in the nearby town of Saint-Romain-en-Gal. Access by train (TER) or highway A7. Car mu