Leeds

Understand

The stately home known as "Leeds Castle" is nowhere near the city of Leeds, but close to Maidstone in Kent. Leeds (derived from the Celtic area Leodis) was voted the UK's favourite city in Condé Nast's Readers' Traveller Awards 2003. It was a market town that became an industrial powerhouse and grew and developed into a service-based city economy with an attractive, smart centre. Roman Leeds was an important strategic fort, ford and small settlement on the York-Chester road. Recorded in the Domesday book of 1086, it became a thriving market town in the Middle Ages, gaining its town charter from the King in 1207. The medieval city was based around Briggate, Kirkgate, Swinegate and The Calls. (The ending "-gate" came from the old Norse for 'street'.) It was a trading centre in the West Riding of Yorkshire for cloth and wool; from Bradford, Halifax and Huddersfield to the port of Hull, east along the river Aire and the 1699 Aire & Calder Navigation canal. Whilst the town grew rapidly (population over 30,000 in the eighteenth century, when the gracious Georgian West End was built), it was for a long time economically overshadowed by nearby York. The industrial revolution brought about massive change as it became a huge manufacturing centre of wool and textiles and a major trading centre (with over half the country's export passing through for a period). Leeds became known as the city of a thousand trades and by the middle of the nineteenth century the population had passed 200,000. Bolstered by the 1816 Leeds-Liverpool Canal and the Leeds-Selby railway in 1835 (the Middleton Railway was the world's first commercial railway, 1758 Railway Act, from the Middleton colliery to coal-staithes (sidings) at Meadow Lane just south of Leeds Bridge), the city continued to grow and prosper rapidly, with grandiose architectural manifestations of the Victorian city's wealth built in abundance, and expanding affluent suburbs to the north. Leeds University was created around the 1880s, bringing an intellectual dimension, and Leeds was served by one of the world's most extensive tram systems (sadly later replaced by buses). A garden in Roundhay, Leeds was the location of the world's first moving images, filmed in 1888 by Frenchman Louis le Prince (who later disappeared in mysterious circumstances). Leeds was granted city status in 1893. By the 20th century, Leeds's population was approaching 500,000. Whilst Leeds suffered far less than many other large UK cities from the WWII blitz, it was affected by the mass industrial decline of the country in the post-war period, and beca

Getting there

By plane 1 Leeds Bradford Airport (LBA IATA), Whitehouse Lane LS19 7TU (10 miles northwest of city centre). LBA has a good choice of flights from Western Europe, e.g. Amsterdam, Barcelona, Brussels, Dublin, Dusseldorf, Geneva, Paris, Rome, and within the UK from Guernsey, Jersey, Southampton, and London Heathrow (though if you're travelling from London rather than flying into Heathrow, it's far quicker to get to Leeds by train). Flights from Eastern Europe expanded in 2019, but LBA doesn't have long-haul flights. Several budget airlines serve LBA, and Jet2 is based here. (updated Aug 2019) LBA doesn't have a motorway or direct rail link so the journey through traffic can be slow and anxious. Bus 757 runs frequently between LBA and Leeds bus station (35 mins); other buses run to Bradford, Otley, Harrogate, Ilkley, and Keighley. The closest station is Horsforth, approximately 1 mile away from the terminal. Taxis are plentiful. By car, the terminal front drop-off area charges £3 for 30 min, so use the area a little further away (signed) which is free for one hour. Car parks for LBA are:

- On airport Short Mid & Long stay, Premium and Meet & Greet - LBA's official off-site park is Viking half a mile away on Warren House Lane. - Sentinel is a mile away on Warren House Lane LS19 7FT Manchester Airport (MAN) is usually the best option for long-haul flights in this region. Direct trains from the airport run to Leeds hourly (90 min) daytime, otherwise change at Manchester Piccadilly.

By train

Leeds is one of the major hubs of the British railway network, with direct trains from London King's Cross (two per hour taking 2 hr 15 min by LNER), Wakefield, Huddersfield, Manchester Piccadilly, Victoria and Airport (two per hour, 80 min), Liverpool, York, Scarborough, Durham, Newcastle, Hull, Bradford, Skipton, Ilkley, Harrogate, Morecambe, Carlisle via the scenic Ribbleshead route, Blackburn, Preston, Blackpool, Sheffield, Nottingham, Derby, Birmingham, Bristol and the southwest, Edinburgh and Glasgow. 2 Leeds Railway Station (called Leeds City locally) is central, by Wellington St and Boar Lane, next to Queens Hotel in City Square. Access to all platforms is gated, but there is a very large retail and dining concourse with ticket kiosks and machines, free toilets and lots of seating. Pick-up and drop-off are available from the Wellington entrance, with taxi hire available at the New Station Street entrance.

By car Leeds is possibly the best connected UK city by road, lying in the centre of the country, halfway between London and Edinburgh and halfway between

Getting around

On foot If you're just visiting the city centre, you might as well walk, as much of it is surprisingly compact with most of the major attractions and shops being within walking distance of one another. Leeds has aspirations to have one of the largest traffic-free city centres in Europe and as of 2020 is gradually pedestrianising more and more streets. To orientate yourself, free maps (quite simple but good for basic orientation) are available at the tourist information and a number of visitor attractions. There are some street maps dotted around the city centre, and others can be found in guide books, street atlases, etc. Getting around central Leeds is fairly easy.

By bus Public transport within Leeds is good - most major bus routes within the city are every 10 minutes or so. Information about busses can be obtained either from the Corn Exchange Bus Point, where the First Travel Centre is staffed M-F 9AM-5:30PM, and Sa 9AM-4:30PM, or from the Leeds City Bus Station whose Information Help Point has the same opening hours. Metro (West Yorkshire Passenger Transport Authority) provides local bus and train information on its website, and has "Find your next bus" on its website. For visitors wishing to explore Leeds city centre CityBus (Route no.5, operated by First) loops around much of the city centre every 6–7 minutes between 6:30AM and 7:30PM; one journey costs £1, or you can use a bus pass. If using this service at busy times of day it's best to catch the bus at either the Bus Station or Rail Station; if a bus is full, it will not stop to take on more passengers and you could be waiting in excess of an hour. This bus is no longer free. First runs most of the bus services within Leeds. If you are making more than a couple of short bus trips, the best option is to buy a "FirstDay" day ticket for £4.30 (cheaper on mobile) , which allows unlimited travel on First Bus routes within Leeds or £4.90 (cheaper on mobile) for all First Bus routes within West Yorkshire.

By taxi The black and white taxis can be flagged down, but you must phone first for the others. In the city centre, try Amber Taxis (advance booking only, +44 113 231-1366): you can get around the city centre for £3-7. In south Leeds, try Local Cars (advance booking only, +44 113 252-8258): a journey for less than a mile is £2.70.

By rail There is a limited suburban train service which serves some tourist destinations such as Headingley Stadium, but plans over the years for a local metro or tram system have repeatedly come to nothing.

By boat There is a shuttle boat between Granary Whar

See

City centre

Brewery Wharf South across the river from The Call the area around Leeds Dock has some interesting development of cafés, restaurants, shops and apartments as wells as the Royal Armouries Museum and Salem Chapel.

Civic Quarter Home to the Town Hall, the fantastic Art Gallery, Henry Moore Institute and Millennium Square, this grand corner of the city is where many of the main tourist draws are to be found. The Light with its shops, restaurants, bars, hotel, cinema etc. in a beautifully converted historic building is a major pull, but venture along the Headrow and experience some of the best cultural attractions on offer in the city. The Art Gallery has great rotating exhibitions and the best collection of 20th-century British art outside London. Adjoining it are the Henry Moore Institute and the Central Lending Library with its beautiful Victorian interior. Across the road is the Town Hall (see above), a breathtaking demonstration of civic pride. On Great George St is a small selection of shops, the 19th-century entrance (with a lovely colonial-style entrance hallway and small gallery space up the stairs) of the Leeds General Infirmary, and the restored Electric Press which is now home to the Carriageworks Theatre and several bars and restaurants, providing a semi-al fresco eating environment for all weather conditions. Next door is the impressive and well-used public space of Millennium Square (see above) with its attractive Mandela Gardens (opened by Mandela himself, now a freeman of the city, they are a lovely spot especially in summer) abutting the Electric Press building. The square is crowned with the Portland Stone neo-classical Civic Hall and the City Museum. Down on Cookridge St is the city's small but unique Arts and Crafts St Anne's Cathedral.

Central Shopping District The very centre of Leeds is a temple to consumerism. Bounded by the 'Public Transport Box', a rough half mile square between The Headrow, Vicar Lane, Boar Lane and Park Row gives Leeds one of the most compact, busy and diverse pedestrian shopping districts in the UK where the highest concentration of the city centre's stores are to be found. The principal shopping street is the broad and bustling Briggate, where many flagship stores such as Harvey Nichols and House of Fraser are to be found alongside high-end fashion (e.g. Louis Vuitton) and high street favourites (Topshop, Zara, H&M). Briggate's attractive and eclectic architecture spans three centuries, and the grand shop fronts only add to the streets appeal. Either side of the top end of Briggate are the

Do

There are four theatres in central Leeds providing a range of entertainment including opera, amateur dramatic and contemporary performance art. Leeds is a great place to see up-and-coming live music talent, and has seen the formation of successful bands such as Corinne Bailey Rae, Kaiser Chiefs and Sunshine Underground. The city is home to many live performances from big-name stars, mostly at outdoor concerts. Millennium Square in the city centre regularly has gigs with a 7,000 capacity. Leeds has an indoor concert arena with around 14,000 seats. Concerts are also held at Roundhay Park,Temple Newsam and Harewood House. Also check out musical events at the Leeds Irish Centre, The Wardrobe and Leads University and Leeds Metropolitan University. There are plenty of leisure centres, gyms and swimming pools across the city, though unfortunately there won't be a public swimming pool in the city centre until the University one is completed. Major city centre fitness/leisure centres are deluxe Esporta, LA fitness and the ubiquitous Virgin Active. Some hotels have great leisure facilities or agreements with local centres for free access for guests. The international standard John Charles Centre for Sport is in South Leeds with facilities for indoor athletics particularly jumping disciplines. Headingley Carnegie Stadium in North West Leeds is home to Yorkshire County Cricket Club, Rugby League (Leeds Rhinos) and Rugby Union (Leeds Tykes). Elland Road in South Leeds is home to Leeds United Football Club . Between January and March the Ice Cube outdoor ice skating ring is set up in Millennium Square. Whilst hardly tropical, Leeds has an unusually mild and sunny climate for northern England, protected from the worst and wettest weather by the Pennine Hills to the west... this gives more than ample opportunity to explore the fantastic parks of one of Europe's greenest cities (Leeds has the most green space in its city limits of any European city other than Vienna).

1 The White Rose Way, Leeds City Square to Scarborough. Take several days, or spread each leg over a number of day walks to complete the 104 miles of the White Rose Way from Leeds to Scarborough

Sports Watch cricket at Yorkshire Cricket Ground in Headingley. This is the usual ground of Yorkshire County Cricket Club, one of the 18 "First Class Counties", the top tier of English cricket. County matches normally last 3-4 days. The stadium also frequently hosts international or "Test Matches", lasting up to five days. The stadium is about 2 miles northeast of the centre. YCCC also play at other grounds ac

Buy

There are a large number of city centre shops : modern shopping centres, the lovely arcades and busy streets - principally Briggate, a wide and attractive pedestrian street with all the high street favourites (from time to time there are markets and other events, and there are usually street performances of some kind). Much of the central shopping area is pleasantly pedestrianised, making retail therapy even easier. Leeds has myriad options for shopping including the beautiful Victorian-era shopping arcades, offering anything from the reasonably priced to the expensive items. In November and December, Millennium Square is turned into a Christmas wonderland of stalls, eateries and fairground-rides for Christkindelmarkt - the city's German Christmas market. There are also several outdoor markets held across the city more regularly, including occasional French markets on Briggate. Plans are also afoot for a massive extension of the main shopping district. City Centre Shopping Centres include all:

1 Victoria Quarter, Briggate, city centre. Home of Harvey Nichols, North Face, Louis Vuitton, Vivienne Westwood and other shops, the upmarket (and architecturally stunning) jewel in the crown of Leeds' shopping district. Thornton's Arcade and Queen's Arcade, city centre (opposite Victoria Quarter). Opposite the Victoria Quarter offer a range of interesting (if mainly fairly pricey) shops including some great boutiques and one-off places. Corn Exchange, city centre. A stunning domed interior and a range of shops to please both label-lovers and teenagers, as well as stalls and cafés. There are occasional concerts, exhibitions, fetes and the Christmas decorations are lovely. Market, Kirkgate, city centre. The biggest covered market and market on one site in Europe. Fascinating even just for the atmosphere of a traditional British market. Largest indoor market in Europe and also is a beautiful Victorian building and a landmark in Leeds it also has an outdoor market which sells everything from food to clothes to electronics and accessories. Fresh seafood is recommended. Granary Wharf (literally under the railway station). By the canal, has a selection of interesting boutiques, restaurants, exhibition space, a small concert venue, street performers and more in a unique subterranean setting. There is also a regular market. The waterfront area is undergoing redevelopment but the range of shops on offer is set to only get bigger. The districts of Chapel Allerton, Headingley and Roundhay also offer a smaller (but worthwhile) range of boutiques and other shops. Cros

Eat

There are many restaurants in central Leeds that everyone can find something to their taste and budget. There are all the usual chains (many of which have several branches in the city) and a huge variety of one-off places, including many award-winners. Headingley, Chapel Allerton, Roundhay and various other districts outside the centre also have a range of quality eateries (whilst a few places in these areas are mentioned below, fuller selections can be found on their respective guides). Café culture is thriving in Leeds, with a great number of places for a lunch or lighter meal, and there are also many fine curry houses in the city, due to the large South Asian population. Leeds has a successful annual food and drink festival, held at the end of August, with many free events bookable in advance.

Drink & nightlife

Leeds' two large universities mean there is a vibrant, diverse and thumping nightlife scene including many clubs as well as a huge range of fine drinking establishments from traditional pubs to ultra chic concept bars. It is estimated that there are over 180 city centre bars and pubs, and around 29 nightclubs with late licenses. Railway arches are increasingly popular homes for bars and clubs across the city centre. All areas (indeed, most streets) of central Leeds offer something in the way of nightlife, but the main areas are:

Call Lane in the Exchange Quarter (one of the city's main nightlife districts), offering a range of bars (which many would argue are the best in the city) from chic to bohemian. The area around the Calls and the Parish Church has overspill from Call Lane and some great waterfront bars and restaurants. The 'yards' off Briggate are home to both traditional pubs and modern bars and clubs. Boar Lane is for the most part made up of standard chain bars and more downmarket drinking establishments, but a few buck the trend. Architecturally lovely Assembly Street has a select number of swanky bars, clubs and restaurants. Greek Street is expensive, but in between the high-end exclusivity are tackier bars attracting a less desirable crowd at weekends. New York Street is becoming increasingly popular. The Northern Quarter, centred on New Briggate and spreading north (and down Grand Arcade) is home to several older Leeds institutions but is now up-and-coming with many hot new venues. The Civic Quarter has everything: flashy bars in the Electric Press, traditional pubs, and loud, trendy bars and clubs above Millennium Square The financial district has a number of dispersed, chic watering holes. Park Row continues along the same lines as Greek Street Brewery Wharf on the south bank is growing as a drinking destination Lower Briggate is the centre of the gay community, and a variety of establishments in the area reflect this, though most are welcoming (and many are popular with) the straights. Out of the city centre, the districts of Headingley and Chapel Allerton are extremely popular for bars and restaurants. Exclusive Street Lane in Roundhay is also becoming increasingly popular. (See their respective guides for details on specific drinking spots in these areas.) What follows is a selection of some of Leeds' highlights, but it is by no means definitive or all-inclusive. Leeds' thriving gay village (the city's first annual Pride festival was launched in 2006) has a number of venues, including the ever-popular old stalwart Queen's Court, Lower

Sleep

Leeds is a major business centre, so if the business hotel chains are within your budget, you'll have plenty of choice, especially weekends and off-peak. City centre offerings include Ibis, Jury's Inn, Marriott, Hilton, Novotel, Crowne Plaza, and Holiday Inn Express. You won't go wrong with any of these; check the standard booking websites or the hotels direct for rates & availability. Mid to top end, if your parents are coming to watch you graduate, point them at the Malmaison or the Queens, a vast Art Deco megalith right over the railway station. There's more at the city's edge by the motorway junction, if you have your own car. Leeds frankly doesn't do budget & back-packer: the city's large youth hostel has closed permanently. There are only two hostels left in the city, the Art Hostel and Russell Scott Backpackers. In the university holidays, uni accommodation may be available, if it's not booked out to a conference. At the other end of the budget, Leeds doesn't do splurgy upmarket hotels: these are away out in the countryside, too far out to be listed here. There are, however, several 4-star hotels in the city.

Go next

Leeds is a major transport hub, so many outlying attractions can be done as day trips. Several are major centres in their own right and worth a longer visit - see their separate pages. Train is a good option for most, though rural spots may need a car or bike-on-train. To the north:

Harrogate — elegant, upmarket Victorian spa town, ringed by parks (including the extensive Valley Gardens). The taste of the original spa water is not soon forgotten. Frequent trains from Leeds, some continuing to Knaresborough, a small medieval market town where the ruins of a castle sit dramatically above the Nidd gorge. For Ripon use the express bus (Route 36). Saltaire, near Bradford but you reach it via the Skipton train, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, an industrial village built by magnate Titus Salt. Within it is the Hockney gallery. These trains call next at Keighley, where the branch line to Haworth and the Bronte Country is often steam-hauled. End of the commuter line is Skipton, with its imposing castle, market town centre and canal walks. Some trains continue to Gargrave (where the canal climbs over the Pennines by a flight of locks), thence to Settle, Carnforth, Morecambe and Carlisle. You probably need your own car to delve deeper into Yorkshire Dales National Park. Other places of interest include Bolton Abbey, Ingleborough, Pen y Ghent, Grassington and Beamsley Beacon. See also North York Moors National Park. Studley Royal Park and Fountains Abbey — you probably need your own car for this UNESCO World Heritage Site. To the east:

York is one of the few walled cities in Britain, with excellent museums, the cathedral, and views from the walls walk. 30 min by frequent train. Kingston Upon Hull or Hull for short, a 700-year-old port. Many museums in the cobbled old town, but the stand-out attraction is the walk-through aquarium, The Deep. Also in this area, see Beverley and Castle Howard. It is an hour away by train. On the Yorkshire coast, the main towns are Scarborough, Filey and Bridlington (these have frequent trains) plus Whitby for Goths, vampires and potted crab. To the south:

In the centre of Wakefield see the Hepworth Gallery. Train, or bus 110 from Leeds every ten minutes. Further out so you need a connecting bus from Wakefield are Yorkshire Sculpture Park and the National Coal Mining Museum. Sheffield has multiple industrial heritage attractions and the North's largest theatre district. The wider South Yorkshire area hosts the Magna Science Adventure Centre and is the gateway to exploring the Peak District. To the west:

Bradford has the National Me