Laponian National Park

Understand

Laponia is the Latinized form of Lappland. The area is shared between Gällivare, Jokkmokk and Arjeplog municipalities, near the border to Norway. Most of the area is wilderness, although since ages inhabited by Sámi, who continue traditional livelihoods in the area, such as reindeer husbandry and fishing. The heritage site consists of the four national parks Sarek, Stora Sjöfallet, Muddus and Padjelanta, the nature reserves Sjaunja and Stubba and other areas at Sulitelma, Tjuoltadalen and Rapadalen.

1 Laponia Visitor centre (Naturum) (Viedásnjárgga at Stora Sjöfallet; turn from E45 a little north of Porjus, then drive 92 km; bus from Gällivare 16 Jun–24 Sep), ☏ +46 973 220-20, [email protected]. March–September. Exhibition, café, shop, guided tours, films, activities for children, trails in the surroundings (with guiding W,Sa) (updated Apr 2017) 1 Badjelánnda Laponia Turism, Storgatan 40, Jokkmokk, ☏ +46 70 281-30-03 (difficult to reach in summer), [email protected]. (updated Mar 2018)

History The area became a UNESCO world heritage site 1996. Most of the area had some kind of protected status much earlier.

Landscape

The landscape of such a huge area includes many types of nature, such as the old-growth forests of Muddus, many kinds of wetlands including the largest one in Sweden, rounded low fells and treeless highland, valleys ("vagge"), high fells (the highest being Sarektjåkkå: 2,089 m, 6,562 feet) and glaciers.

Flora and fauna

Climate

The area is at the Arctic circle, parts of it at quite high altitude. Days are often cool also in summer. There is much rain in summer and much snow in winter. Above the tree line winds can be hard.

Getting there

The Inlandsbanan railway goes through Laponia, with a stop at Porjus by Muddus and Stubba and one in Jokkmokk (120 km from Kvikkjokk), ending in Gällivare. In summer, a night train from Stockholm serves Murjek and Gällivare. The Malmbanan trains from Luleå and Boden to Narvik go via Murjek (180 km from Kvikkjokk) and Gällivare. There are several roads to the area, and buses to some of the nearby villages, such as Kvikjokk (from Jokkmokk and Murjek) and Stora Sjöfallet and Ritsem (from Gällivare). E45 crosses most of the roads to the area and leads through Stubba and Muddus. There is boat transport between some of the trailheads. There are several helicopter operators, making it possible to directly reach some roadless destinations. There are several hiking trails leading into the area. The most well-known (you can mostly use just a last leg; most trails described under Do below):

Gränsleden leads from Tysfjord on the Norwegian coast to Áhkájávrre and Ritsem in Sweden, over the border by Nordkalottleden. It is an old trail, which has been used for trade, and during the World War it was used by refugees from the occupied Norway. Take a boat from Kjöpsvik to the trailhead in Sørfjorden, call well in advance to allow coordination with other transports. Kungsleden from Hemavan via Kvikkjokk Kungsleden from Abisko Nordkalottleden from Sulitjelma in Norway Nordkalottleden from Kautokeino or Kilpisjärvi Rallarstigen from Gällivare You are free to enter Laponia where you choose to, but there is a visitor centre in Stora Sjöfallet (near the falls) and other official "entrances" in Jokkmokk, Gällivare, Porjus and Kvikkjokk.

Getting around

By foot mostly, by ski in winter (or by snowmobile along some routes). There are helicopter and boat services to some destinations. At the trails there are usually bridges as needed. At some river crossings there are rowing boats. Leave a boat at each side. In Sarek fording will often be necessary, although there are also some bridges.

See

The traditional lands of the Sami people. The Sulitelma massif and its glaciers, on the border to Norway. Sulitelma was long believed to be the highest mountain in Sweden. The largest wetland in Sweden, in Stubba, Sjaunja and Muddus. The Inlandsbanan railway (stop at Porjus) and Inlandsvägen tourist road (here synonymous to E45) go through Stubba. The Rapaselet delta in the Rapadalen valley in Sarek national park The old-growth forests and the Muddusjokk waterfall in Muddus. Stora Sjöfallet used to be one of the most impressing waterfalls in Europe, but most water is now lead underground via a hydroelectric plant. Lake Guvtjávrre by the Nordkalottleden trail, with a view of the Áhkká massif. A meeting place for Sámi, with possibility to buy bread and fish with some luck.

Do

There are several well-known hiking trails through the area, and many other trails.

Kungsleden, 430 km long from Abisko to Hemavan, through Laponia, is certainly the most famous. You can pick shorter legs. Nordkalottleden crosses the border to Norway here and there, and leads all the way from Sulitelma or Kvikkjokk to Kautokeino in Finnmark (some 800 km in all). Some legs are demanding. Padjelantaleden, 140 km long from Kvikkjokk northwards through Padjelanta National Park to Ritsem. You can get in by Kungsleden. Rallarstigen from Gällivare to Porjus, 44 km, passes through the northern end of Muddus. The trail has been used since the 18th century. Day hikes are possible from Inlandsvägen. Muttosbálges trails in southern Muddus. Sarek is a popular fell tourism destination, but is challenging, as you in most of it have to get by without trails or huts. Also the fords can be dangerous at high waters.

Buy

Many of STF's mountain huts (See section "Lodging") have small convenience stores. These sell basic food and drink, but also practical utilities such as blister plasters, sunscreen, sanitary wipes, matches, toothpaste and maps. "Parfas kiosk" is located by the hut Stáloluokta and has a similar supply. The cabin Árasluokta offers traditional Sami handicraft.

Eat

Mostly you will eat what you have carried in. There is some food for sale at many huts (see section Lodging) and at some Sámi camps. There are cooking facilities in the huts, but a portable stove is recommended, for meals elsewhere. There are also a few sites where you can buy a cooked meal. The cabins Kvikkjokk and Sáltoluokta and the Stora Sjöfallet Mountain Centre are large enough to have their own restaurants. Smaller cafés can be found at the visitors centre Naturum and in the cabin Ritsem. Picking berries and edible mushrooms is allowed. Fishing is also allowed in many places, check what permits you need. You may make fire when there is no risk of wildfire. Use dead branches and twigs. Do not move stones from fire rings. Where there are old fire rings or official campfire sites, use them.

Drink & nightlife

There is plenty of good natural water in most areas. Most hikers use it untreated, but if you want to avoid risks, boiling it for a few minutes cannot hurt. Have bottles for carrying some. All STF-shops offer milk and chocolate powder, coffee, tea, soda's and beers. Several cabins have cafés or restaurants where you can get hot or cold drinks. The only proper bar in Laponia is located in the hotel "Stora Sjöfallet Mountain Center".

Sleep

Lodging 1 Stora Sjöfallet Mountain Lodge (