La Plata

Understand

It covers an area of 940 km² at 9.87 m above the sea level. It sits on the "pampa húmeda" (wet pampas), 56 km south-east of Buenos Aires city. La Plata was designed around a central axis marked by 51st and 53rd Avenues, where the main buildings and landmarks are located: the Cathedral, City Hall, Plaza Moreno (Moreno square), the Teatro Argentino, the Provincial Legislature and Government house around Plaza San Martín (San Martín square). It was designed by Pedro Benoit and his prestigious team, who are among the most distinguished in the world. His basic design was a perfect square, cut in half diagonally and with squares and parks in the intersections of avenues, grand tree-lined boulevards and a forest near the center of the city.

Climate

Its weather is mild, with an annual average temperature of 16.3 °C and an average rainfall of 1023 mm per year. The average humidity is of 77.6% and the predominant southeast winds blow during four months in the year. Summers are hot and humid while winters are cool and cloudy.

History La Plata was born because of a political motive: The urgency of giving a new capital to the province of Buenos Aires, after the battle of Caseros. It was discussed at the time the possibility of moving the capital of the Buenos Aires Province to some existing populations, but the idea of creating a new city, lying on the field as a vast mathematical network, prevailed over any other opinion. So while other cities began as small populated and poor villages, which they were slowly becoming cities, La Plata, however, was from the beginning like a city, and not in poverty if not in opulence. La Plata was born, once and for ever, in full adulthood without a past. It had fame even before existing. It would be the great city of the future, the perfect capital; it was the magical city coming from the heart of the desert. In 1882, the final plans of the city were approved, and the works began. Three month after the first streets began to pave. Finally the solemn day of its foundation came, it was on 19 November 1882. In the Moreno Square the cornerstone was laid, guests gathered under a large wooden shed, where the official banquet was served, while people gathered around 400 roasters where juicy steaks were cooked. The feast of meat was followed by racing of rings, acrobats and fireworks. The party was over; the next day the construction works of the new capital began. The town developed, in its early years, with breakneck pace, growing in the abundance. There was work and money, so says the popular song: "I go to La Plata, the new ca

Getting there

By bus Buses from Retiro and other places in Buenos Aires leave all the time - they cost A$39 (September 2016) and take 1 hour or so. There are two companies that cover the route: Costera Metropolitana and Plaza. On business days the buses leave from the Retiro neighborhood, not the main Retiro bus station. On weekends and holidays, Costera's buses leave from the interior of the station (platforms 1 or 2). The Plaza bus' stop is across the street from the main bus station. There are a number of bus stops, look (or ask) for the 129 to La Plata "por autopista" (by the freeway). If you take the 129 to La Plata "por Centenario", it'll take twice as long as it makes local stops along the way.

By train Trains leave from Buenos Aires all day from Constitución station. Travel time for the full journey is just over one hour.

1 La Plata railway station (Estación La Plata) (Intersection of Calle 1 and 44, just north of downtown.). (updated Jan 2021)

Getting around

La Plata is an easy city to navigate because of its numbered grid system. (However, many street signs are missing, which makes it more difficult to determine your location.) You can easily walk from one side of the city to another within 45 minutes. Taxis are plentiful and cheap. They can be hailed on the street, but be observant: the diagonal avenues that cut through La Plata can be confusing and taxi drivers might take advantage of that to rack up the price on the meter. The city buses, or the micro, are very cheap and reliable. Within one city zone (the square-grid downtown counts as one zone) the bus costs AR$6.25 (Argentine pesos) as of September 2016. It will cost a little more to travel into the suburbs. You must specify the amount you are paying or your destination upon entering the bus. If you are confused as to how much you should pay, ask the bus driver. Buses only accept prepaid bus cards (called "Sube"), which you can buy at any news stand for AR$30. (If you don't have one, but you have the exact change, you can often ask a friendly fellow traveler to swipe their card for you and then pay them in cash.) You must also hail the bus as it approaches the bus stop or it will not stop. The Sube card is good throughout the greater Buenos Aires area (not the whole province, just the city and its immediate suburbs). A local train-tram named Tren Universitario runs in a half-circle around the city, from the railway station via the University and the city's largest hospital to Los Hornos neighborhood.

See

Museums 1 Museum of La Plata (Museo de La Plata) (in the green parks north of the city centre), ☏ +54 221 422-8479. Highlight of the city - contains numerous (some huge) dinosaur skeletons, a detailed exploration of the numerous pre-Columbian cultures in South America, and other world class exhibits. The museum isn't quite up there with its cousins in New York City or London - but it is not far off. AR$9. (updated Apr 2017) 2 Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes Emilio Pettoruti, Av. 51 525 (near Plaza San Martin), ☏ +54 221 421-2206. The provincial museum of fine arts has reopened after its refurbishment. Small exhibition space displaying temporary contemporary art exhibitions. Free. (updated Apr 2017) 3 Museum of Contemporary Latin American Art, ☏ +54 221 427-1843. (updated Apr 2017) 4 La Plata Gymnastic and Fencing Club Museum, Av. Iraola y 118 (Paseo del Bosque), ☏ +54 221 4222510, +54 221 4222612, [email protected]. M-F 10:00-20:00, Sa 10:00-13:00. The club was founded in 1887 in 7th Street between 46th and 47th as a Social and Sport Institution. It started in the disciplines of gymnastics and fencing. In 1912, the club added social activities: the practice of football, which allowed a great deal of solvency by winning the tournament of 1915 and obtaining the privilege of playing in Premier League. It continued adding other sports such as basketball, women's volleyball, athletics, gymnastics, fencing, boxing, rugby, water polo, swimming. All these sports had high performance representatives. The museum was founded to protect and preserve the history of the institution. It began with the task of recovering the elements which belonged to its heritage and restoring ancient armours and goods. It exhibits bronze medals and shields, cups and trophies, flags, guns of the Tire Section, swords, books, paintings, t-shirts, a photographic archive and a record of the members between 1894 and 1932. (updated Oct 2018)

Historic buildings 5 Casa Mariani Teruggi, 30th Street, 1134 (between 55th and 56th Street), ☏ +54 221 4212681. Sa 11:00-17:00. The city of La Plata was one of the hardest hit cities by the military dictatorship between 1976 and 1983. Thousands of young people belonging to different political and guerrilla groups were persecuted, tortured, killed or they just “disappeared”. Among the most painful events is what happened in the house on 30th Street between 55th and 56th Street, where Diana Teruggi and Daniel Mariani lived with their daughter Clara Anahí. From outside, the house seemed to be a place where the owners bred rabbits and prepared

Do

Theatre 1 The Argentino Theatre. It is a lyric opera house and a cultural centre. It has two halls where ballet, opera and concerts are performed, and two magnificent foyers for art exhibitions. The new Argentino theatre was built on the same city block where the original building had been, which was destroyed by a fire. There are free guided tours. 2 The Coliseo Podestá Theatre. It was built in an “art deco” style at the beginning of the 20th century. Its main hall is decorated in French style.You can see plays and comedies here and it is also a historic building to visit. The first theater of “honest fun” of La Plata was the Varietes Theatre, in Tolosa, in 1884. At the same time, other stages were created where companies of puppeteers and narrators made shows in La Plata Theater and Politeama 25 de Mayo Theatre, both of which were also in La Plata. In this last theater the character called “Pepino el 88” accompanied by his donkey “Pancho” made the audience amuse. José Juan “Pepe” Podestá was the person who gave life to the famous clown that would become the pioneer of the Río de La Plata’s theater. Four years after the foundation of La Plata, in 1886, the first theater whose size was suitable for large lyrical evenings was opened. This theater was called Politeama Olimpo. It is now called Coliseo Podestá. In that first show, the tenor Roberto Stagno interpreted The Barber of Sevilla. The building project was in charge of the Uruguayan architect Carlos Zenhdorf. It was entirely made with Argentinian materials. Its first owners were Vicente Jordán & Co. but in 1887 the circus company Scotti-Podestá bought the property at a public auction. Since then, two stories were intertwined, the one of the building on 10th Street between 47th and 48th and the one of the Podestá family who, since 1885, installed their circus tent in La Plata. The building had to be modified to work as a circus. The building occupied a quarter of a block and communicated with the café El Olimpo. On the first floor, there was a hotel for artists who came from abroad or from Buenos Aires. Because of its movable floor it could work as a theater or as a circus. Artists and animals entered from the sides of the stage, where the boxes are located nowadays. In 1920, the Politeama Olimpo was renamed "Coliseo Podestá" in honor of Pepe’s father. The Coliseo Podestá has a room with perfect acoustics. Great artists like Margarita Xirgu, Arthur Rubinstein and Lola Membrives have acted in it. In the 1920s, carnival and spring dances were held. Of course, they dismantled the seats and put tabl

Buy

Second-hand bookshops In the past they were called “Librería de Viejo”, now, “Librería de Usados”. All these bookshops have the same layout. In the middle of the room there is a big, rectangular table with books on offer. And on the shelves against the walls, there are difficult to find books, old editions or luxurious bindings. You are not going to find there the latest books of publishing companies but books that have been sold by their owners because of trips, house moving, death, desire to renew, etc. As La Plata is a university city, philosophy, history or good literature books are easy to find and buy and also at a cheap price. If you love books go to “Don Cipriano” (49th Street, 471) or “Libros Lenzi” (Diagonal 77th, 521)

Eat

1 A Rienda Suelta, ☏ +54 221 424-2290. Reasonable prices. BBQ is recommended. (updated Jan 2024) 2 Green Garden, ☏ +54 221 489-5239. Variety of dishes and nice setting. (updated Jan 2024) 3 Olibar, ☏ +54 221 426-4610. Reservations recommended. High-end. Wine cellar on-site. (updated Jan 2024)

Drink & nightlife

1 Wilkenny, Calle 50 797 (intersection of Calle 11 and 50). Irish pub & restaurant. (updated Apr 2017) 2 Pura Vida, Diagonal 78. Has an alternative and Indie atmosphere where locals, musicians and artist hang out at night. Some of the "new wave" Indie-Rock bands (e.g. 107 Faunos, Los Reyes del Falsete) play for more than a convenient coverage. Concerts usually start very late (02:00). (updated Apr 2017)

Sleep

1 Hotel Corregidor, Calle 6 Nº 1026 entre 53 y 54, ☏ +54 221 425-6800, fax: +54 221 425-6805. A four-star hotel. (updated Apr 2017) Grand Brizo La Plata, Avenida 51 715 entre 9 y 10, ☏ +54 221 512-6200. Five-star hotel. (updated Apr 2022)