Khartoum

Getting there

By plane 1 Khartoum Airport (KRT IATA). Is the main gateway into Sudan by air. The airport is served by various Middle Eastern and African airlines. Among the cities with direct connections with Khartoum are: EgyptAir (Cairo), Emirates (Dubai), Ethiopian Airlines (Addis Ababa), Gulf Air (Bahrain), Kenya Airlines (Nairobi), Qatar Airways (Doha) Turkish Airlines (Istanbul). Sudan's national carrier Sudan Airways links Khartoum and several African and regional capitals, and with Sudan's domestic airports at Port Sudan, Nyala, El-Fashir, Malakal, Juba, Dongola, Wadi Halfa and El-Obeid. Go early as the airport can get a bit chaotic. Be prepared for long waits and queue cutting. Immigration checks and other security checks can also take a long time. No departure tax should be paid anymore, as it's included in a ticket price. There is a bank facility to change money open during the night when there are flights. Getting to town: the airport is located close to the city in Al-Amarat. Taxi fare from Khartoum airport to city was a fixed SDG 100 in 2015. You can also walk out to the main road about 200 m from the airport terminal and catch minibuses that cruise along the road. Alternatively you can book a metered taxi.

By bus The chaotic Souq al-Shaabi used to be the main bus terminal for long distance south-bound buses in Khartoum, but a new terminal 2 Khartoum Land terminal (Meena al Barre) has been built which is more orderly. Buses leave for Port Sudan, Wad Medani, Kassala, El-Obeid, Karima (8 hr, SGD 275), Gedarif (6 hr, SGD 275) and other cities. Again, there are no buses to southern Sudan. Buses from Aswan travel 24 hours, 450 EGP. Buses to Atbara depart from 3 Khartoum North Bus Station (also known as Shendi Bus Station).

By train Rail services to Khartoum are limited, but investment have brought hopes of a rejuvenation of train travel. There is the daily Nile Express from Atbara as well as services three times per day from Wad Madani. Older, more infrequent trains run from Port Sudan, Wadi Halfa - for connections with ferries from Egypt - and even Nyala. There main station is 4 Khartoum North (Bahri).

By car The main tarred road goes south from Khartoum to Wad Medani then east to Gedaref (for the Ethiopian border at Gallabat), Kassala (for the Eritrean border, which is closed) and then to Port Sudan. South from Khartoum, a road also goes to El-Obeid, which then continues west towards the Chadian border via Darfur, which is a bit dangerous to use. From the north, the road comes in from Wadi Halfa via Atbara. There are no road links to southern S

Getting around

Khartoum is both easy and difficult to get around. It is easy in that much of the city is laid out on a grid, with long straight roads and the airport and Nile as easy reference places. It is difficult in that the city (or indeed the 3 cities) are very spread out, making walking a long and tiring option. Maps are hard to come by, but Google Earth offers some good high-resolution images.

By taxi These come in three varieties; bright yellow and often beaten up Toyota Corollas Model 1977, small 6-seater minivans, and more modern metered taxis. Fair "foreigner" prices for taxis are roughly: SDG 17.50 plus SDG 4.61 per km. Crossing the river will usually double the price. Most taxi drivers speak no English, can't read maps, and often can't read Arabic either; they often even have little idea about Khartoum's geography, especially about other parts of the city to where you pick him up.

LimoTrip, ☏ +249 18 359 1313, [email protected]. Air conditioned metered taxis with two-way radio.

By minibus Minibuses are the cheapest way to get around Khartoum, especially between the three cities. There are easily thousands of minibuses and seeing all of them gather near the Great Mosque and Souk al-Arabi is a sight to behold. They are however quite complicated to use. None of them bear destination signs and you will have to be able to speak a little Arabic with their conductors to determine which minibus to take. They are also always packed to the brim. Fares are SDG 3-5 (June 2017). Most of the minibuses leave from the square near the Great Mosque (Mesjid al-Kabir) or nearby in Khartoum proper.

By car Describing Khartoum's traffic as chaotic is a bit of an understatement. The economic boom has put many more cars on the road, although driving attitudes have not changed, resulting in almost comical chaos at intersections. As Khartoum is laid out in a grid, there are many intersections for cars from all directions to barge in to fight for space. Having said that, the slow speed of vehicles ensures that they are very few major accidents, at least in the city. If you are not used to such driving conditions, it is better to resort to taxis. Car hire is available and costs a bit above the African average. However if you want to head off in to the desert the costs mount further, as the 100 km is standard, and then there is an additional charge per kilometre. Fuel costs around SDG 27 (US$4.20) per litre (Nov 2016). ‘Limousine’ is the Arabic word for car hire – try along Airport Road or Ibed Khetim Road (east of the airport) for car hire places.

By three-wheeled tax

See

Khartoum (الخرطوم)

Nile Street or Shari'a Al-Nilشارع النيل الخرطوم: Probably the prettiest street in Khartoum. With the Blue Nile on one side, the street is lined with pretty, albeit decaying-looking, colonial buildings, most of which are used as ministries, schools and even a hotel, the Grand Holiday Villa Khartoum. The Presidential Palace, also fronting the Blue Nile, is a pretty building but you will not be allowed to walk in front of it - the guards will ask you to cross the road and proceed behind and around the building. You will also see the modern side of Khartoum along this street - the egg-shaped, Libyan-owned Al-Fateh Tower; Chinese-built Friendship Hall. The National Museum is also along Nile Street. The road is tree-lined most of the way (except towards the west) and has a sidewalk, so walking is quite pleasant. Many people sit on the concrete walls along the river. 1 Sudan Presidential Palace Museum. This museum is located in the grounds of the Presidential Palace and is housed in the impressive century old Palace Cathedral. The palace contains many relics and pieces related to Sudan's administrative and modern political history, from paintings of Sir Gordon Pasha to the Presidential cars of more recent rulers. The Changing of the Guard: This is a ceremony held on the first Friday of every month, where the Black Guard and the White Guard of the Presidential Palace swap over. The ceremony is performed near the South Gate of the palace. 2 Confluence of the Blue and White Nile. If you have the stamina, you will reach the confluence of the two branches of the Nile if you continue walking west along Nile Street for about 3–4 km from the Presidential Palace. The confluence is called Al-Mogran and it is best seen from the metal bridge (the old one, not the newer concrete one) linking Khartoum and Omdurman or Al-Mogran Family Park. It is said that one can actually see the two different colours from the different branches come together and flow separately for a distance downriver before mixing together. The Al-Mogran Family Park, which has a Ferris wheel and other rides, is located near the bridge. Warning: There is a signboard saying "no photos" from the bridge. Please heed it as people have been arrested for taking photos of the confluence! (updated Jan 2019) 3 Souq Arabi. If you want to see crowds and action, this is the place. The commercial heart of town, Souq Arabi (Arabian Market) can provide everything you need (see "Buy" section for more details on shopping options). The market is huge and spread over several squares in the center of Kh

Do

Clubs There are many professional and international clubs spread around the three cities. Providing for sport, cultural activities or simply a place to meet, they are a lively remnant of British influence.

Greek club. Khartoum 2, entrance off Mak Nimir Ave. The hideout of Sudan's Greek community, it is open to the public and offers sports facilities (tennis, volleyball, basketball, football, running), a swimming pool (entrance fee SDG 30) and basic food and drinks. Coptic club. German club. Nothing especially German, a basketball court, a garden in the shade of trees and a swimming pool. It also serves as a hotel. Indian club. Omdurman. The center of the capital's large Indian community social life, it organizes events for all important Indian festivals. A wander around Tuti island is highly recommended if you want to see green rather than the brown of Khartoum. If you are heading to Omdurman, a good way of unwinding after the chaos of the souq is to catch the ferry across to Tuti from Omdurman (except Fridays) or take the Tuti Suspension Bridge. Aim for around 17:00-18:00 to enjoy Tuti in the early evening. A Nile cruise, several boats moored by Tuti Bridge are available for cruises. A cruise on some of the smaller boats can cost you as little as SDG 15.

Cultural centers Centre Culturel Français. Downtown, Ali Dinar St. Offers French courses, Sudanese Arabic courses, a library and cultural events (music, art, literature, conferences, movies). Ask for the program at: [email protected]. Goethe Institute. Downtown, Al Mak Nimir St. Offers German courses, cultural events (music, art, literature, conferences, movies). Ask for the program at: [email protected] or http://www.goethe.de/khartum. British Council. Downtown, Abu Sinn St. Offers English courses, cultural events (music, art, literature, conferences, movies). Ask for the program at: [email protected] or http://www.britishcouncil.org/africa-sd-contact-us.htm. Iranian Cultural Center. Al Amarat, corner of Airport Rd and St 27.

In the evening Evening tea on Nile Avenue. With the extension of Nile Avenue to Manshia complete, the stretch of road between Mak Nimir and Manshia bridges has become the place to be of Khartoum's evening life. Innumerable tea ladies cater to the needs of the crowd enjoying the grass while watching the road and the river.

Music Concerts. The Sudanese music scene is active. Artists of the moment play live in clubs, mostly on weekend evenings. Look for the Arabic posters that dot the city or ask the locals. Weddings. It is common for Sudanese to hire star mu

Buy

Most shopping is still done in street markets or souqs. The souqs here are not as attractive those in other Middle Eastern countries but are still interesting enough for a glimpse of Sudanese economics. And you can certainly buy everything you need, including handicrafts if you are a tourist, from these markets. Prices are not amazingly low due to transport costs for imported (mainly Chinese) goods, but cheaper than in Afra Mall or proper shops. Upmarket, Khartoum has only one shopping mall with a supermarket, several shops and food outlets.

Khartoum Souq Arabi In the city centre, this is your classical chaotic market teeming with people. The market is divided in to several sections, each focussing on a certain product. There is even one block devoted to gold, although it certainly looks less sophisticated and organised than its counterpart in Dubai. However, this souq is a bit lacking in term of handicrafts and fresh foodstuff. You are better off going to Souq Omdurman (see below) for handicrafts. 1 Afra Mall, Africa Road in the southern suburb of Arkawet. Afra is Khartoum's and Sudan's only mall but don't expect too much. Afra is already starting to lose it new shininess - it is more like a small neighbourhood mall rather than those you would find in Hong Kong, Singapore or Dubai. It has a supermarket and retail outlets selling clothes and other things you would expect to find in a mall. You can find money changers and pre-paid mobile telephone kiosks too. Afra Mall is certainly not a must-see attraction, nor a place to head for a night out. (updated Jan 2011) 2 Al-Amarat Centre. For visitors this is probably your best bet for tracking down imported foodstuffs and household items. Prices are high of course, but you are paying for convenience. (updated Jan 2011)

Omdurman 3 Souq Omdurman. Very large Sudanese market. Most of the commodities are cheaper and vegetables and fruits are fresher than Souq Arabi. You can get handicrafts here. The handicraft street is quite difficult to find - its towards the northern end of the market, near the gold section (not on the western side, at stated in the Bradt guide). The street is actually a covered lane between two buildings with gates at either end. It's not very busy (in comparison with the rest of the market) and they can lock up and go home in the evenings, and sometimes on Fridays also. There are many local buses between Souq arabi and here. Bus fare are SDG 1 from here to Souq Arabi. (updated Jan 2011)

Khartoum North (Bahri) Saad Gishra. This is a covered market place; it is Bahri's main shopping

Eat

Khartoum has a good sprinkling of restaurants, with new ones popping up every couple of months – other than restaurants attached to hotels there is little quality eating to be had in Khartoum’s city centre. Amarat hosts the majority of the better eateries, although Ridyah and Khartoum 2 also have some places. Omdurman and Barhi have a light sprinkling of simple restaurants. All restaurants have about 15% government tax and 3-14% service charge. For some local fare, try traditional gurasa (a large thick wheat pancake) or kisra (large thin pancake) with your choice of sauce (bamya based with lamb or chicken) or yoghurt with sugar (gha'ib).

Amarat 1 Universal, Amarat St. 27. Italian flavoured, offering pleasant al fresco dining, priced with the expat wallet in mind. (updated Jan 2011) Amwaj Restaurant, Africa St, Al-Amarat (on the corner with Street 15 or "Shari'a Khamsa ta-Ashaara"), ☏ +249 91 828 8890. Big, airy and spotless, and really good food. Extremely popular with locals and visitors. Menu offers shawarmas, kebabs, grilled chicken, lamb stews and others, all accompanied by bread, soup and salad. Delicious fruit juices and shakes too. Dishes cost SDG 20-60. (updated Jan 2011) Royal Broast, Airport Road, Al-Amarat. Another popular place a few doors from Amwaj. (updated Jan 2011) Laziz Delicious Restaurant, Al-Amarat Street 1. Nice place to eat in. They have another branch in Ryad area. (updated Jan 2011) Afra Mall Chinese restaurant food court, Afra Mall, Africa Street, Arkawet. Located on the first floor of Khartoum's only shopping mall. (updated Jan 2011)

Khartoum 2 2 Assaha Restaurant. Would be considered an excellent restaurant in any city, and a Jewel in Khartoum. Good atmosphere with professional and knowledgeable wait staff. They have lots on the menu including luncheons, light meals and full dinners. A large selection of appetizers, mains, dessert and a "hubble bubble" cost about SDG 90 per person with everything included. They charge 12% government tax and 14% service charge. (updated Jan 2011) Al Bawadi Tourist Restaurant, Ahmed Makki Abdu St (east of Souk Khartoum 2), ☏ +249 90 692 1951. A renowned table for spicy grilled chicken and broast. Mains cost SDG 15-20. (updated Jan 2011) Hadramawt Restaurant, Khartoum 2 St 47 (west Souk Khartoum 2), ☏ +249 12 222 5252. Yemeni restaurant offering the traditional salta, fahsa, mandi, lahm hanith and fatah for dessert. Mains cost around SDG 15. (updated Jan 2011)

East of the airport 3 Habesha Ethiopian restaurant, +249 912302410 (Arkaweet Area, east of Afra Mall). Good atmosphere, go

Drink & nightlife

It's best to prepare yourself to be alcohol-free for your stay: there are places serving 'special tea' dotted around and non-alcoholic beers are available, but in general it's more hassle than it's worth to track down alcohol during a short visit. For long-termers, however, the market does exist - via diplomatic bags and other routes... apparently.

Sleep

A 5% tourism tax and 15% VAT may well be added to your bill - Khartoum's hotels are inconsistent in telling you about these taxes in advance, and (especially for cheaper hotels) inconsistent in paying this money to the tax authorities. Ask if there are any hidden extras before booking.

Budget Blue Nile Sailing Club. An alternative to Khartoum's hotels, on the river's southern bank just east of the confluence, the club often accommodates overlanders and accommodates tent camping on its grounds. The club is fenced, monitored, inexpensive and offers expansive river views. It is also home to a river gunboat that once belonged to Horatio Kitchener and now houses the club's offices. (updated Jan 2019) Khartoum Youth Hostel, House no 66, Street 47, Khartoum 2,, ☏ +249 183480385 , +249 912500322 (mobile). Opened in 2007 and part of Hostelling International this is the best option for non-camping travellers on a budget. Dorm bed $5.00, double room $10.00.. (updated Jul 2019)

Mid-range Downtown Hotel and Business Center, el jami Ave, 11111, ☏ +249 183742131, [email protected]. Good option for those who like old British city center which turned into multicultural hub of people from all around Africa doing business there. Downtown Hotel is situated in a big 5 store building right next Gold Market, Grand Mosque and major shopping center Waha. It's managed by British, Polish and Sudanese friends. It's still needs some adjustments and work on details, elevator doesn't work and hotel parking is occupied by street vendors but for US$35 it's possible to have very decent, well furnished room with bathroom and big bed for couples. They have coffee&restaurant on the groundfloor with green backyard. There are multiple activities like training and business center, Artists in Residence programs, design studio and other creative units. Double Room US$35, Twin Room US$45. (updated Jan 2011) 1 Lisamin Safari Hotel, 41st Amaret. Opened in late 2007, this hotel is a welcome addition to Khartoum’s rather drab hotel stock. Lebanese run, and housing an excellent Lebanese restaurant (The Cedar Tree) this hotel is very Dubai-esque and is certainly worth checking out if your budget can stretch to the room rates. Wireless internet available for a fee. US$144 single, US$156 double, suites from US$168 (inc VAT and tourism tax). (updated Jul 2016) 2 Bougainvilla Guesthouse, ☏ +249 92 261 5445. Small 17-room hotel in the Riyadh suburb – the big attraction is the breezy roof terrace where excellent European breakfasts and dinners are served. Although the rooms themselves ar

Go next

Sabaloga Gorge: This gorge is also known as the 6th Cataract. It is 80-95 km (50 to 60 miles) north of Khartoum and can be reached in about 2½ hours. It is essential that a 4-wheel drive vehicle be used, and it is wise, as is true in all cases in traveling outside Khartoum, to travel with at least two vehicles. On arrival, visitors can stroll around a Sudanese village and inspect Ansar forts that once bombarded steamers on their way to relieve General Gordon. It is advisable to take this trip in the cooler months. Jebel Awlia: This dam was completed in 1937 and is 40-50 km (25 to 30 miles) south of Khartoum on the Jebel Awlia road. A 4-wheel drive vehicle is not required for this trip as the road is paved to the dam. However, if you intend to cross the dam and travel on the other side, a 4 WD will be needed. The area around the dam itself has a number of large trees and flat grassy land which are ideal for picnics. For those interested in bird watching, there are numerous birds to be seen, such as pelican, herons, kingfisher, wader, and plovers. One of the fringe benefits of a trip to Jebel Awlia is a short drive up to the dam. Here the fishermen sell their catch, which they have just brought in. The prices are about half of what they might be in Khartoum. Bring along suitable wrapping and ice and coolers for any fish purchased. Meroe: This site is approximately 200 km north of Khartoum. There is also a hotel in Shendi (very basic) where one could be based. The trip should be arranged with a tour agency unless someone in the party really knows his/her way around the desert tracks. There are some paved roads to Meroe but you do have to drive off the main road on to some sandy areas. Four-wheel driver vehicles are a necessity for this trip. The Pharaonic influence left its imprint in the hieroglyphic language, the religion of Amon, and building of the pyramids, which were a simplified version of the Egyptian model with no rooms or corridors. The Greek and Roman architectural influence is evident in the pillars of temples and the classical forms of the statues of men and women. The Meroe ruins are a four-hour drive from Khartoum. But there are various other sites in the area, so a two or three day trip should be contemplated, and a knowledgeable guide is essential for the best understanding of the ruins. National Geographic’s book Splendors of the Past provides excellent background for such a trip. Dinder National Park: (12°19'N 034°47'E) The Dinder National Park is said to be one of the most unique in the world. It is totally “unorgan