Katowice

Understand

A series of medieval villages grew up in the forest clearings of Silesia, working at agriculture and small-scale metal-bashing; Katowice is first documented among these in 1598. They urbanised from the 18th century when coal mines plumbed deeper underground, and better processes were invented for extracting metals such as zinc and for turning iron into steel. Katowice outgrew its neighbours and in 1873 it became the county town. Poland in those centuries was carved up by other nations and Katowice was part of Prussia, later of Germany. It was well-connected by rail to other cities and attracted service industries such as banking. After the First World War the border was re-drawn, based on a plebiscite; Katowice voted to remain German but the district all around it voted to join Poland and it had to follow suit, becoming the regional capital. The Second World War and Nazi occupation brought a high human cost but only selective damage to city buildings - the synagogue was one obvious target but city industry was wanted for the war effort. Then in 1945 the Red Army "liberated" Katowice by destroying much of it, and post-war communist rulers carried on in that vein. Rynek the central market square was soon ringed by the shabby 1960-70s architecture now mocked as "Early Gierek". Later in the 20th century traditional smokestack industry collapsed, labour unrest grew, and the miners of Katowice were as instrumental in the downfall of "the People's Republic" as the ship-builders of Gdańsk. The city, region and entire nation of Poland had to re-invent themselves after 1989, developing a western free-market economy with a greater role for service sector, education and IT. Other Polish cities have prettified themselves into romantic budget-flight weekend destinations - that was never realistic for Katowice. It does however have a wealth of heritage, good visitor amenities, and transport links around Silesia and beyond. In the 2000s, Katowice gained a higher profile by creating a new convention center and hosting the United Nations Climate Change Conference (2018) and being designated the European City of Science (2024).

Getting there

By plane 1 Katowice Airport (KTW IATA), Wolności 90, Pyrzowice (34 km north of city), ☏ +48 32 392 7000. Main airport for the sprawling GZM metropolis. As Katowice is seldom a tourist destination, it mainly serves the Polish diaspora, so you can get bargain seasonal flights against the flow. It has daily flights by Lot from Warsaw, change there for Gdańsk. Flights across west Europe and the Med are mostly by Ryanair, with a few by Wizz. The airport has a single terminal and the usual facilities including car hire. As a budget airport, prices of food and souvenirs are much steeper than that in the city centre. There is a currency exchange booth but visitors should avoid it as its margins can be 20-30% higher than money changers in Katowice city centre. (updated Oct 2024) Onward transport:

The AP airport bus takes 52 min to go directly to the main railway and bus stations, every 30 min daytime and hourly through the night, 6.60 zloty (don't confuse it with bus M11 which has the same terminus but takes 77 min with countless stops). Matuszek Bus runs direct to Kraków. Buses also run direct to Bytom (No 85, 53), Mierzęcice (No 17) and Sosnowiec. Kraków (KRK IATA) is a major tourist destination so its John-Paul II Airport has excellent connections across Europe. Flixbuses from Warsaw and Gdańsk call here every few hours on their way to Katowice, but it's usually more convenient to take the frequent bus or train into Kraków city centre and change.

By train Trains from Warsaw run hourly and take just under 3 hours via Sosnowiec. They may start from Gdynia or Gdańsk. From Kraków they run hourly and take an hour via Myslowice. From Berlin Lichtenburg, two trains a day take 6 hr 30 min via Rzepin, Zielona Gora, Glogow, Lublin, Legnica, Wrocław, Opole, Gliwice and Zabrze, and continue to Kraków. From Wrocław the service is every hour or so, taking two hours and continuing to Kraków, Tarnów, Rzeszów, Łańcut and Przemyśl on the Ukraine border. From the Czech Republic, trains run from Ostrava every hour or two, taking two hours via Bohumin, Wodzislaw Slaski, Rybnik and Tychy. These may start from Prague, Vienna or Budapest. On cross-border routes, look for split-ticket deals. Reservations are compulsory on all trains from Germany in July and August. 2 Katowice Railway Station. This is central in town and has left luggage lockers. Go downstairs for the shopping mall, cafes and local buses. (updated Apr 2024) Outlying stations are Zaleze 3 km west, Brynów 5 km southwest and Ligota another 4 km south, and Zawodzie 3 km east.

By bus

From Warsaw, Flixbus runs

Getting around

On foot Many sights are within a km or two of Rynek or the main railway station. The pavements are broad and level.

By bus or tram

ZTM Metropolia run almost all buses and trams across the 40-some cities of Upper Silesian Metropolis, which straddles the Czech border. They have a unified ticket system. (PKM Jaworzno are an exception. They run blue and yellow buses on some 20 routes, including lines A, E and J from Aleja Korfantego. They have a completely different fare system; but you're unlikely to use them and they're not described further here.) In 2024 tickets valid for 20 mins are 4.60 zł, 40 mins 5.60 zł, 90 minutes or for the full route 6.60 zł, and a 90 minute group ticket for up to 5 people is 13 zł. A one-day pass valid until midnight is 12 zł. Concessionary fares are 50% of the relevant normal fare. All these tickets are valid for unlimited transfers within the allotted time. You can also buy e-packages of 20, 40 or 80 tickets (which roughly halve the unit journey price but don't allow transfers), and 30-, 90- and 180-day e-passes. You can buy tickets from kiosks, newsagents, shops, machines at the main stops, or at POP passenger service points: these are within Katowice railway station, at Pocztowa 10 near Rynek, and at the ZTM offices on Barbary 21a. The only ticket you can buy on boarding is the 90 minute 6.60 zł (or concessionary 3.30 zł) ticket from bus drivers, who don't give change (they don't yet have contactless payment), and are sometimes out of tickets. You must validate your ticket immediately on boarding. Inspectors prowl, and an unvalidated ticket is as bad as no ticket at all. For outlying sights buy your return ticket along with your outbound in case you find no convenient ticket point or the machine is broken, and with trams you don't have the option of paying the driver.

By taxi There are taxi ranks at the airport, north entrance of the railway station at 3 Maja, the bus station, main hotels and city transport nodes. Ask the price beforehand or the taxi driver will use his wildest imagination. Using an app such as Uber ensures an agreed price.

See

1 Rynek. The market place, pedestrianised but criss-crossed by trams. It's frankly drab, though the communist buildings are being replaced by modern structures. They've taken up the Kraków tradition of sounding the Hejnał at noon, a five-note bugle call, which in medieval times was the signal to open the city gates at dawn. Zachód Słońca - "Sunset" - is a neon installation on Rynek, a red globe low over the Rawa canal. 2 History of Katowice Museum, Szafranka 9, ☏ +48 32 256 1810. Tu-F 10:00-18:00, Sa 10:00-16:00, Su 11:00-15:00. Small permanent display of local history plus exhibitions. (updated Apr 2024) 3 Silesian Organ Museum (Muzeum Organów Śląskich), Zacisze 3 (block east of History Museum). M-F. Part of the University Dept of Music, these pipe organs have been collected or cannibalised from around the region. Hours erratic, and you need to be here when an organist plays them. (updated Apr 2024) 4 Cathedral of Christ the King (Archikatedra Chrystusa Króla), Plebiscytowa 49a, ☏ +48 32 251 2196. Built from 1927, but the war intervened and it was only finished in 1955. It's in brick, but faced with sandstone. The interior is fairly plain. (updated Apr 2024) 5 Archdiocesan Museum, Wita Stwosza 11 (west side of cathedral), ☏ +48 519 546 023. Tu-F 09:00-15:30, Sa 10:00-13:00. Small church museum with religious artwork. (updated Apr 2024) 6 Church of the Immaculate Conception (Kościół pw Niepokalanego Poczęcia NMP), Plac Szramka 1, ☏ +48 32 258 7744. Sturdy neogothic church, framed by the view down Mariacka. Mass in English is 14:30 Sunday. (updated Apr 2024) 7 Cathedral of the Resurrection (Kościół Zmartwychwstania Pańskiego), Warsawska 18, ☏ +48 32 253 9981. This large Lutheran church is neo-Romanesque, built 1856–58. (updated Apr 2024) 8 Goldstein Palace, Plac Wolności 12. M-Sa 07:30-16:00. A cod-Renaissance bling mansion, built in the 1870s by the brothers Abraham and Joseph Goldstein. They made their money from sawmills, but when their Katowice mill burned down in 1892 they left for Wrocław. The building then had various uses and is now a municipal marriage hall; you can usually look in. (updated Apr 2024) 9 Former Municipal Bathhouse (Budynek Łaźni Miejskiej). It was built in 1895. It closed in 1970 and is now municipal offices. 10 BWA Contemporary Art Gallery, al Wojciecha Korfantego 6, ☏ +48 32 259 9040. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. Contemporary art. Adult 8 zł, conc or child 4 zł. (updated Apr 2024) 11 Rondo Sztuki, Jerzego Ziętka Roundabout, ☏ +48 32 720 1132. Tu-F 13:00-19:00, Sa 11:00-19:00. Two galleries, concert hall and cafeteria in this 2007 buildi

Do

1 Spodek, Av Korfantego 35, ☏ +48 32 438 4030. A city icon opened in 1971; the name means "flying saucer" and it's the city's main multi-use venue, with a capacity of over 10,000. (updated Apr 2024) 2 International Congress Centre (Międzynarodowe Centrum Kongresowe), Plac Sławika i Antalla 1 (next to Spodek), ☏ +48 32 438 4030. Poland's largest conference center, built in mid-2010s. (updated Apr 2024) Football: GKS Katowice play soccer in Ekstraklasa, the top tier. Their Arena Katowice (capacity 15,000) opened in 2025: it's on Nowa Bukowa, 3 km west of city centre. Other top tier teams nearby are in Chorzów, Zabrze and Gliwice. Ice hockey: GKS Katowice play in Polska Hokej Liga, the top tier. Their home rink is within Spodek. 3 Silesian Library (Biblioteka Śląska), Plac Rady Europy 1, ☏ +48 32 208 3740. M 12:00-18:00, Tu-F 10:00-18:00, Sa 10:00-15:00. Large modern regional library. (updated Apr 2024) Board games and puzzles: Ludiversum is a board games cafe at Kamienna 7, next to Hostel Centrum near the railway station. Flamberg is a hobby and games shop at Adama Mickiewicza 3, near the Marriott. Or get in touch with Silesian Fantasy Club.

Cinema Katowice has several new, multi-screen cinemas and some traditional ones. Check if films are shown dubbed or sub-titled.

4 Światowid, 3 Maja 7, ☏ +48 32 258 7432. The main place for art-house film in city centre. (updated Apr 2024) 5 Rialto, Sw Jana 24, ☏ +48 32 251 0431. An artist-run venue showing more experimental film. (updated Apr 2024) 6 Cinema City - Silesia City Center, Chorzowska 107 (within Silesia City Center), ☏ +48 32 493 9555. Modern multiplex cinema with 13 screens including one IMAX. (updated Apr 2024) 7 Cinema City - Punkt 44, Gliwicka 44, ☏ +48 32 359 5959. Another multiplex with 13 screens and one IMAX 3-D. (updated Apr 2024) 8 Kino Kosmos, Sokolska 66, ☏ +48 32 258 0508. Shows a mixture of mainstream, classic and art-house films. (updated Apr 2024)

Performing arts

9 Silesian Theatre (Teatr Śląski), Rynek 10 (east side of market square), ☏ +48 32 258 7251. Katowice's main repertory theatre, the largest theatre in Silesia, dedicated to the playwright Stanisław Wyspiański (1869-1907). (updated Apr 2024) 10 Teatr Korez, 2 Plac Sejmu Slaskiego, ☏ +48 32 209 0088. Reckoned as the most cutting-edge theatre in the city. (updated Apr 2024) 11 Teatr A Part, 3 Maja 11. Contemporary visual and physical theatre group, formed by Marcin Herich, actor, director and organizer of theatre events. (updated Apr 2024) 12 Teatr Ateneum, Sw Jana 10, ☏ +48 32 253 8221. Children's theatre. (updated Apr 2024) 1

Buy

Shopping centres are mostly north of the station. Galeria Katowicka is adjacent on 3 Maja, open M-Sa 09:00-21:00. Silesia City Center is 3 km northwest on the boulevard to Chorzów, with Cinema City.

Eat

Budget 1 Złoty Osioł (Golden Donkey), Mariacka 1, ☏ +48 32 253 0113. M-Sa 11:00-20:00, Su 12:00-20:00. Lively vegetarian bar hosting events like poet meetings or concerts. (updated Apr 2024) Tradycyjne Zapikanki, Mariacka 1 (by Golden Donkey). M-Th 11:00-23:00, F Sa 12:00-03:00, Su 14:00-22:00. Fast food place open late. (updated Apr 2024) 2 Talerz Szklanka, Staromiejska 12, ☏ +48 501 060 030. M-F 11:00-18:00. Called a milk bar, but it's trad filling Silesian food, perfectly seasoned and textured. (updated Apr 2024) Mój Kaprys, Kochanowskiego 10 (opposite Hostel Polonia), ☏ +48 792 732 110. Tu-Su 11:00-18:00. Great place with tasty home-style food, generous portions and good coffee. Nice atmosphere inside and friendly service. (updated Apr 2024) 3 Okiem i Brzuchem, Kościuszki 18. If you're looking for local Silesian cuisine on the map of Katowice. Selection is "10". Great decor, delicious food, great service. Unique atmosphere. (updated May 2022) 4 Mekong, Słowackiego 21, ☏ +48 32 725 1390. M-F 11:00-18:00, Sa 11:30-15:00. Fresh authentic Vietnamese cuisine. (updated Apr 2024)

Mid-range

Hurry Curry, Sw Stanisława 1 (opposite Cathedral of the Resurrection), ☏ +48 511 433 663. Su, Tu-Th 12:00-21:00, F Sa 12:00-22:00. Indian and southeast Asian food, some vegetarian and vegan options available. (updated Apr 2024) 5 Carlos Burger&Lunch, Jagiellońska 11, ☏ +48 786 865 913. M-Th 12:00-21:00, F Sa 12:00-23:00, Su 13:00-20:00. Large burgers, decent price, friendly staff. (updated Apr 2024) 6 Pierogi Świata, Jagiellońska 4, ☏ +48 506 424 928. Tu-F 12:00-20:00, Sa Su 13:00-20:00. The name means "Dumplings of the World" and it's an eclectic offering of trad Polish and fusion. (updated Apr 2024) 7 Żurownia, Ligonia 16, ☏ +48 535 084 666. Su M 12:00-21:00, Tu-Sa 12:00-22:00. Traditional Silesian specialties and beer. (updated Apr 2024) 8 Dobra Karma, Sw Jacka 1, ☏ +48 784 903 662. Su-Th 12:00-19:30, F Sa 12:00-21:30. Veggie cafe for breakfasts, pizzas, soups, pastas,child-friendly. The name's a bit of an uneasy fusion, but suppose they'd called it Theek Hai Los. (updated Apr 2024) Fantasmagoria, Gliwicka 51 (opposite Cinema City), ☏ +48 571 808 722. Daily 13:00-22:00. Polish and Georgian cuisine. Bright interior and a terrace in summer. Cash payment only. (updated Apr 2024) 9 CityRock, Chorzowska 9B, ☏ +48 573 000 595. Su, Tu-Th 10:00-22:00, M 16:00-22:00, F Sa 10:00-00:00.. Retro American-style diner, for wings, pizza, burgers and the like. (updated Apr 2024) 10 Wiejska Chatka, Plac Grunwaldzki 4, ☏ +48 32 350 3010. Su-Th 11:00-21:00, F Sa 11:00-22:00. Fam

Drink & nightlife

Katofonia, Mielęckiego 6 (block north of Golden Donkey), ☏ +48 32 201 0184. Su-Th 17:00-23:00, F Sa 17:00-03:00. Live rock, blues and other music. (updated Apr 2024) Lorneta z Meduzą, Mariacka 5 (by Golden Donkey), ☏ +48 323 232 323. M-F 07:00-04:00, Sa Su 09:00-04:00. Bistro bar with filling food. (updated Apr 2024) 1 Cooler Club, Mariacka 20, ☏ +48 508 249 198. F Sa 20:00-05:00. Weekend late spot. (updated Apr 2024) Hipnoza Jazz Club, Plac Sejmu Śląskiego 2 (behind Teatr Korfez), ☏ +48 660 476 156. Tu-Th 13:00-23:00, F Sa 14:00-01:00, Su 14:00-23:00. Jazz and other music, drinks and interesting dishes. (updated Apr 2024) 2 Spiż, Opolska 22, ☏ +48 885 408 406. F Sa 21:00-05:00. Club with decent music and drink. (updated Apr 2024) 3 Absurdalna, Dworcowa 3, 40-012. Spacious indoor and patio seating. (updated Aug 2024)

Sleep

Budget Hostel Katowice Centrum, Andrzeja 19 (just south of station), ☏ +48 535 111 655. Clean and very convenient. (updated Apr 2024) 1 Hostel Polonia, Jana Kochanowskiego 3, ☏ +48 323 200 021. It's a basic hotel rather than a hostel. Gets noise from the nearby station. B&B double 200 zł. (updated Apr 2024) Ibis Budget Katowice Centrum, al Walentego Roździeńskiego 18 (next to Novotel), ☏ +48 32 350 5040. Good Accor hotel, service and comfort beyond its price range. B&B double 250 zł. (updated Apr 2024) 2 Hotel Diament, al Wojciecha Korfantego 35, ☏ +48 32 606 8585. Comfy friendly place on a tram route, some noise from the events hall. B&B double 450 zł. (updated Apr 2024) 3 Jopi Hostel, Plebiscytowa 23, ☏ +48 32 204 3432. Friendly hostel with 2-, 4- and 6-bed rooms, six bathrooms and shared kitchen. The neighbourhood is a bit rough. 100 zł ppn. (updated Apr 2024)

Mid-range Mercure Katowice Centrum, Młyńska 6 (facing station), ☏ +48 32 797 8800. Convenient Accor chain hotel. B&B double 550 zł. (updated Apr 2024) 4 Hotel Mariacki (Best Western; formerly Hotel Śląski), Mariacka 15, ☏ +48 32 708 0800. Clean, friendly and central. B&B double 500 zł. (updated Apr 2024) Hotel M23 is by the Mariacki at No 23 and gets good reviews. 5 Courtyard by Marriott, Uniwersytecka 13 (within Altus shopping mall), ☏ +48 32 438 9350. Smart place in the centre. Double (room only) 500 zł. (updated Apr 2024) 6 Novotel, al Walentego Roździeńskiego 16, ☏ +48 32 200 4444. Spacious efficient Accor chain hotel convenient for motorists. With pool, sauna and gym. B&B double 500 zł. (updated Apr 2024) 7 Hotel Senator, 1 Maja 3, ☏ +48 698 767 425. Comfy simple place. On a tram route, so this means some street noise. B&B double 300 zł. (updated Apr 2024) 8 Hotel Załęże, Gliwicka 106, ☏ +48 698 766 963. Two km west of main railway station and downtown, this is okay for what you pay. B&B double 300 zł. (updated Apr 2024) 9 Marysin Dwór, Pukowca 17a, ☏ +48 322 544 089. Simple accommodation in the industrial suburbs next to Załęże railway station. B&B double 300 zł. (updated Apr 2024) 10 Stary Nikiszowiec, Nałkowskiej 10, ☏ +48 32 255 4682. Modern simple place in a former miners' estate. Double (room only) 200 zł. (updated Apr 2024) Hotel Jantor next door is filthy.

Splurge 11 Hotel Monopol, Dworcowa 5 (300 m east of station), ☏ +48 32 782 8282, [email protected]. Grand old central hotel, opened in 1903, with modern spacious rooms. B&B double 600 zł. (updated Apr 2024) 12 Qubus Hotel, Stanisława Moniuszki 9, ☏ +48 32 778 0100, [email protected]. Modern, central four-star

Go next

Chorzów 5 km west has a zoo, amusement park and the Silesian Ethnographic Park. Tychy 12 km south has a Brewing Museum. Central Firefighting Museum in Mysłowice. Mining skansen in Zabrze. Silver mine and Black Trout Gallery in Tarnowskie Góry. Auschwitz-Birkenau is the Nazi death camp complex by the town of Oświęcim.