İzmir

Understand

History

There are lots of little coves and harbours along Turkey's Aegean coast, but ancient Smyrna stood at the head of a broad inlet sheltered from winter storms, with a fertile hinterland and good inland trade routes. It suffered earthquakes and warfare, but didn't silt up and could accommodate large vessels. Thus it outgrew other ports and is now the modern bustling city of Izmir. This Smyrna was 5 km north of the present centre, in what is now the suburb of Bayraklı, and founded about 3000 BC by the Trojans. In folklore it was the birthplace of Homer, the 8th century BC author of the Odyssey, which describes a war between Greeks and Trojans 500 years earlier. No-one really knows where Homer lived, but a major harbour city is as good a guess as any. By his day Smyrna was settled by the Aeolians from mainland Greece, who were superseded by another Greek tribe the Ionians. The Lydians destroyed the city around 600 BC before a recovery under Alexander the Great from 334 BC. Alexander’s successors re-built Smyrna on and below Mount Pagos, nowadays Kadifekale, and the city then prospered under the Romans. It was wrecked by an earthquake in 178 AD but again rebuilt into a major commercial port. After the Byzantines, the city had a turbulent time under the Arabs, Seljuks, Crusaders and Mongols, until Mehmet I incorporated it into the Ottoman Empire in 1415. Under Suleyman the Magnificent, Smyrna became a thriving city and a huge trading centre, in spite of frequent earthquakes. It was cosmopolitan, with a majority of Greek Orthodox plus many Jews, Armenians, Muslims, Italians and French, each injecting their own culture, language and cuisine. The battlefronts of World War I lay elsewhere in Turkey, and the city remained multicultural. This was not for want of trying by the Ottoman rulers, who in 1915 set about a systematic extermination of the minorities, and the word "genocide" was first coined to describe this. Meanwhile the Allies promised control over Smyrna both to Italy and to Greece as a reward for joining their side. When the guns fell silent and the Ottomans were defeated, it was Greece that had control over a large swathe of territory along the Aegean coast. But Greece aspired to much more, and marched on Ankara; they got within 100 km before being checked then repulsed by the Turks under Kemal Atatürk, in what became the War of Turkish Independence. In the process of retreating, Greek forces committed some terrible atrocities, including the wholesale murder of Muslim villages on their way. Turkish forces took Izmir on 9 September 1922 and thi

Getting there

By plane

1 Izmir Adnan Menderes Airport (ADB IATA) (off D550, 16 km south of city centre), ☏ +90 232 455 0000. This has frequent flights from Istanbul IST and SAW, Ankara and Antalya, and daily from several other Turkish cities plus Ercan in Northern Cyprus. There are also flights from Athens, Frankfurt and across Europe. Operators include Turkish Airlines, Pegasus, Ajet (formerly known as Anadolujet) and SunExpress (which has a hub here) so this competition keeps fares low. The airport has the usual facilities including car hire. (updated Apr 2024) To town:

İzban suburban trains run every 10 mins to Alsancak Station north of city centre. Change at Hilal for the metro downtown - this station and its surroundings are messy and not easy to navigate. You need an İzmirimkart (below) for the train and subway. ESHOT bus 202 runs hourly round the clock to Republic Square, taking most of an hour. You need the İzmirimkart to ride it. Bus 200 runs north to Mavişehir, Bus 204 runs to Bornova metro station, and Bus 206 goes to Şirinyer Aktarma in the southern district of Buca. HAVAŞ buses here are similar to the other airports they serve: their website oozes corporate guff about transport solutions, and is too cool to publish timetables or fares.

By train

Izmir is not yet on Turkey's high-speed YHT network, so trains are a ponderous overnight affair, when daytime buses cover the distance in half the time. A high-speed railway is under construction and might open by 2027, though 2207 seems just as likely. Until then, the main services (all daily) are:

İzmir Mavi ("Izmir Blue Train"), 14 hrs overnight from Ankara via Eskişehir (which has YHT trains, but not at night) and Kütahya, departing around 18:00. Konya Mavi ("Konya Blue Train"), 12 hrs overnight from Konya (which has YHT trains, and connections for Adana and Antalya), via Afyon and Manisa, departing around 19:30. Most coaches have seats only and sleepers may be out of supply for the nearest dates. Ege Ekspressi, 9½ hours daily from Kutahya via Tavsanli, Balıkesir, Soma, Akhisar and Manisa, departing around 09:30 and returning north at 06:30. Göller Ekspresi ("Lakes Express"), 8 hrs overnight from Isparta via Denizli (for Pamukkale), Nazilli, Aydin and Selcuk (for Ephesus and Kuşadası), departing around 22:00. No sleepers available. 6 Eylül Ekspresi ("6th of September Express"), 6½ hr daily from Bandırma (with ferries from Istanbul) via Balıkesir and Soma, departing around 08:00. Buy tickets at the station, or in theory online, but the TCDD website has been broken for many months. 2 Basmane railw

Getting around

On foot You can explore Izmir's inner city by walking.

By bus

ESHOT is the city transport combine. Its bus routes span this region, all the way for instance to Bergama. İzmirim Kart is the contactless smart card used for all modes of public transport, available from multiple locations including the airport, ferry piers, and railway and metro stations. Each use is valid for 90 min, including one interchange on tram, train and metro but not buses. In 2024 a city centre bus journey costs 8.78 TL then a first transfer is 3.50 TL. On trains it initially charges the fare for the maximum possible distance but refunds when you swipe out.

By train & metro

IZBAN railway (shown in green) runs north-south:

South Line runs from Tepeköy (for Torbali) in the south via the airport and Menderes town to Hilal (for Metro) and Alsancak (for trams, city ferries and the North Line). South Line Extension runs from Tepeköy to Selçuk, for Ephesus. North Line runs from Alsancak to Turan, Mavişehir (for trams), Çiğli, Menemen and Aliağa (for connections to Foça and Bergama). 4 Alsancak railway station on Şehitler Cd is terminus for the IZBAN railway, and has trams. No Metro or mainline trains run here. Metro (shown in blue) runs east-west, from Bornova to the east via Halkapinar interchange (for trams and North Line), Hilal (for South Line), Basmane (for mainline trains) and Konak to Fahrettin Altay (for Göztepe and Balçova town). Trams (shown in red) have two separate loops:

City centre and south shore: from Halkapinar interchange to Alsancak, Konak, Göztepe and Fahrettin Altay. North shore: from Alaybay to Bostanli, Atakent and Mavişehir. All three rail systems have extensions under construction or in planning. You can use a bank card for the trams and metro, it will take a little time after you swipe but eventually will show four green lights and let you through. However, an Izmirim kart or individual tickets are required to use the IZBAN.

By boat

Izdeniz Ferries criss-cross the city inlet, a cheap, fast and pleasant form of transport.

Üçkuyular Pier. (updated Mar 2025) Göztepe Pier. (updated Mar 2025) Pasaport Pier. (updated Mar 2025) 5 Alsancak Ferry Terminal (Alsancak Vapur İskelesi). (updated Apr 2024) Karşıyaka Pier. (updated Mar 2025) Bostanlı Pier. (updated Mar 2025)

By taxi There are many taxis with reasonable prices and no night rate. Turkish taxis are not allowed to go outside province they are registered at. Meaning an Izmir-registered taxi (registration starting in 35) cannot go beyond Izmir provincial boundaries.

See

1 Konak Square is the city's main square and gives its name to the central district. Konak means a mansion, and the provincial governor's mansion stood here. The clocktower (Saat Kulesi), erected in 1901, was one of dozens across the country marking 25 years of the reign of Abdul Hamid II (1842-1918). Neither clocktower nor Hamid fared well in later years, but at least the clocktower has been repeatedly restored, while the Ottoman Empire decayed into "the sick man of Europe". Hamid was deposed in 1909 to spent his last years under house arrest, with no escape from the recriminations of his wives and consorts, who numbered almost as many as his commemorative clocktowers. Konak Mosque is a dinky little mosque within the square. It's octagonal, built in 1755 and decorated with Kütahya tiles, with a single entrance for both men and women. 2 Salepçioğlu Mosque was built in 1905. It's named for the fellow who endowed it, an Islamic judge. 3 Izmir Archaeological Museum, Halil Rifat Paşa Cd 4, Bahribaba Parkı, ☏ +90 232 483 7254. Daily 08:30-17:30. Displays a large collection of finds from Smyrna and other Ionian cities, mostly Roman. There's also a numismatic section with ancient coins and jewellery. Adult 90 TL. (updated Apr 2024)

Toy Museum is at Birleşmiş Milletler Cd 8, 100 m west of the Archaeological Museum. It's open Tu-Sa 09:00-17:00. 4 Asansör (Elevator), Şehit Nihatbey Cd, ☏ +90 232 293 4780. Daily 06:00-00:00. This lift was constructed in 1907 by Nesim Levi Bayrakoğlu, a Jewish businessman, to carry people and goods between Karataş waterfront and the properties on the hill. It has two cars each taking about ten people on a 58 m lift, and originally was water-powered; from 1985 both are electric. The restaurant at the top has a bird-eye view of Izmir. The street at its base is also known as Darío Moreno Sk for the singer who once lived there, David Arugete (1921-1968). It's tragic that, having dwelt so long by a free lift, he died young in a strop when he came late to an airport boarding gate and was denied boarding. Free. (updated Apr 2024) 5 Hisar Mosque was built in the 1590s and is a striking example of Islamic architecture. Şadırvanaltı Mosque 100 m east on 892nd Sk was built in 1636. Başdurak Mosque was built in 1652. It's on 873rd Sk within Kemeraltı Bazaar. Kemeraltı Mosque on the west side of the Bazaar was built in 1671. Bazaars: see "Buy" for Kemeraltı and Kızlarağası Hanı next to Hisar Mosque.

6 Smyrna Agora, Tarık Sarı Sk 29, ☏ +90 232 489 0796. Daily 08:30-17:30. Ruins of the marketplace of Hellenistic and Roman Smyrna. Adult 200 TL. (

Do

"I know the blasphemy of them that say they are Jews, and are not, but are the synagogue of Satan." - Smryna was one of the Seven Churches of Asia, and in Revelation 2, St John of Patmos flays them all for back-sliding and laxity. Kordon is what everyone calls the waterfront promenade of Atatürk Cd. It's lined by tall apartments and palm trees on one side and the Aegean on the other, with a broad strip of lawn and a cobbled street between, where you can have a 19th-century fayton (horse-drawn carriage) ride. Beaches: not downtown, which has a pleasant waterfront but not a beach. You need to get 20+ km west to the suburb of Güzelbahçe, and the coast improves further west towards Çeşme. North of the city is muddy lagoons or inaccessible cliffs, with the nearest resort at Foça. Football: Göztepe SK were promoted in 2024 and now play soccer in Süper Lig, the top tier. Their home ground Gürsel Aksel Stadium (capacity 19,700 all-seater) is 5 km west of city centre. Altay SK were relegated in 2024 and now play in TFF Second League, the third tier. Their Mustafa Denizli Stadium (capacity 15,000) is just east of Alsancak Station; it was rebuilt in 2021 when earthquake damage left the original of 1929 teetering. Izmirspor were founded in 1923 and have played in the top tier but now languish down in the amateur leagues. Lunapark is a funfair within Kültürpark, open M-F 12:00-18:00, Sa Su 11:00-20:00. Izmir Jazz Festival is in March. Izmir Marathon is held in April.

Buy

Kemeraltı is the atmospheric main bazaar, in the streets east of Konak Square. It's open M-Sa 08:00-19:00. Kızlarağası Han next to Hisar Mosque was a caravanserai built in 1745 and now housing shops. AVM is the Turkish term for a shopping centre - alışveriş merkezi. Those in city centre include Konak Pier, and Kemer Plaza and Hesapli within Kemeraltı.

Eat

Local specialties: Fish, typically grilled sea bass. Kumru is a warm sandwich, made with a special bread with sesame seeds, Turkish sausage, grilled cheese and tomatoes; vegetarian versions are available. Find it at street stalls, best early in the day still warm from the bakery. One is a snack, two are a filling meal. Tulum Peyniri is a cheese made in the Izmir region. Boyoz, another local pastry but much oilier than kumru, to eat with a cup of tea for breakfast.

Budget The alleys off Talatpaşa Blv east of the Atatürk Museum are lined with budget eating places. 1 Sultan Yemek Evi, 1441st Sk 9/B, ☏ +90 232 422 2530. M-Sa 08:00-18:00. Reliable budget eatery. (updated Jun 2026) Alsancak Pide, 1440th Sk 11 (next to Sultan Yemek), ☏ +90 232 463 9166. M-Sa 10:00-20:30. Simple cafe for pizza and similar. (updated Apr 2024) Köfteci Okan, Dr Faik Muhittin Adam Cd 38 (50 m west of Salepçioğlu Mosque), ☏ +90 232 441 8201. M-Sa 10:30-19:30. Kofta restaurant, no better than okay. (updated Apr 2024) Çarşı Balık, 871st Sk (just north of Başdurak Mosque), ☏ +90 507 462 4883. Daily 09:30-20:00. Good place for fish and shellfish. (updated Apr 2024) 2 Piraye Ev Yemekleri, 851st Sk 6B, ☏ +90 554 574 2389. M-Sa 07:00-17:00. Friendly inexpensive cafe with home-style cooking. (updated Apr 2024) 3 Köfteci Murat, 927th Sk 4, ☏ +90 232 489 6674. M-Sa 11:00-20:00. Serving good filling meatballs. (updated Apr 2024)

Mid-range

4 Komposto, 861st Sk 46, ☏ +90 232 483 2183. M-F 11:30-16:00. Bright modern place for Turkish and Aegean cuisine, with vegetarian options. (updated Apr 2024) 5 Ayşa, Anafartalar Cd 224. M-Sa 09:00-18:00. Good Bosnian / Montenegro cuisine with veggie options. (updated Apr 2024) Yaşam Vegan Cafe, 1484th Sk 8 (block west of Titan Hostel), ☏ +90 534 033 0372. Tu-Sa 12:00-21:30. Good vegan choices in this meat-oriented city. (updated Apr 2024) 6 Manisalı Birtat, Kıbrıs Şehitleri Cd 82, ☏ +90 232 421 6864. M-Sa 11:30-23:00, Su 11:30-22:00. The specialty is Manisa kebab, lightly seasoned skewered meat drenched in yoghurt and tomato sauce. (updated Apr 2024) 7 Topçu, Vali Kazım Dirik Cd 3/B, ☏ +90 232 4844 6261. Daily 08:00-01:30. Reliable restaurant for Turkish and Med food. Try their Çöp Şiş kebab, which translates as "made of any old rubbish". (updated Apr 2024)

Splurge Veli Usta have two seafood restaurants 100 m north of Cumhuriyet Meydanı: at Cumhuriyet Blv 131 and at Atatürk Cd 182, both open daily 12:00-23:00. When they're good they're very good, but at these prices they need to be more consistent. 8 Tavacı Recep Usta Alsancak, Atatürk Cd 364, ☏

Drink & nightlife

Kordon, Alsancak's waterfront, is an attractive place in nice weather. 1448th Sk in Alsancak has end-to-end bars and pubs, with outdoor seating. Nightlife is found on Kıbrıs Şehitleri Cd and Gazi Kadinlar Cd, especially at weekends.

Sleep

Budget Alican is a basic place north side of Basmane station, 1268th Sk 12. Imperial Otel is at 1296th Sk 54, 50 m SW of Basmane station. It's tatty but clean. Hotel Baylan, 1299th Sk 8 (100 m SW of Basmane station), ☏ +90 232 483 0152. Basic central place, okay for a short stay. B&B double 1500 TL. (updated Apr 2024) Hotel Oba is at 1369th Sk 27, 200 m west of Basmane station. It's basic but cleaner than most. 1 Shantihome Hostel, 1464th Sk 15, ☏ +90 546 235 0805. Bright friendly hostel, central for sights. (updated Apr 2024) 2 Titan House Hostel, Yüzbaşışerafettin Bey Sk 40, ☏ +90 532 749 0721. Friendly central hostel. (updated Apr 2024) 3 Mithras Hotel, 1472nd Sk 4, ☏ +90 232 464 1414. Clean and comfy, some street noise. B&B double 2000 TL. (updated Apr 2024) 4 Piano Hotel Izmir, 1364th Sk 11, ☏ +90 553 920 1029. Clean and central, tiny rooms with poor sound-proofing and a cigarette pong. B&B double 3000 TL. (updated Apr 2024) Ibis Izmir Alsancak, Atatürk Cd 410 (facing Alsancak station), ☏ +90 232 414 7000. Pleasant budget chain, rooms are small but clean. B&B double 2500 TL. (updated Apr 2024)

Mid-Range Karaca Hotel, Şevket Özçelik Sk 55 (behind Swissotel), ☏ +90 530 939 1312. Acceptable for what you pay. B&B double 4000 TL. (updated Apr 2024) 5 Doubletree by Hilton, 1373rd Sk 5, ☏ +90 232 402 0202. Small rooms, usually clean, central. B&B double 4000 TL. (updated Apr 2024) 6 Renaissance Izmir Hotel, Gazi Osman Paşa Blv 16, ☏ +90 232 497 7777. A futuristic-looking hotel 500 m from the waterfront. Comfy and friendly, main drawback is the tobacco stench. B&B double 6000 TL. (updated Apr 2024) 7 Lagora Old Town Hotel, Havra Sk 302, ☏ +90 232 425 0205. Charming place in the bazaar, but live music in the atrium dins in all the rooms until midnight. B&B double 2500 TL. (updated Apr 2024) 8 Izmir Palas Otel, Vasıf Çınar Blv 2, ☏ +90 232 465 0030. Boxy seafront hotel, cigarette smell and street noise. B&B double 4000 TL. (updated Apr 2024) 9 Ege Palas, Cumhuriyet Blv 210, ☏ +90 232 463 9090. Clean and efficient, great views from the upper rooms. B&B double 5000 TL. (updated Apr 2024)

Splurge 10 Key Hotel, Atatürk Cd 36, ☏ +90 232 482 1111. Slick waterfront hotel with restaurant and gym. B&B double 6000 TL. (updated Apr 2024) 11 Swissotel Buyuk Efes Izmir, Gazi Osman Paşa Blv 1, ☏ +90 232 414 0000. Great scores for comfort, service and location at this swish waterfront hotel. B&B double 4000 TL. (updated Apr 2024) 12 Movenpick, Cumhuriyet Blv 138, Pasaport, ☏ +90 232 488 1414. Central business hotel with pool, restaurant and gym, cleanliness err

Go next

Çeşme is a small harbour half an hour's drive west of Izmir. It has ferries to Chios. Selçuk a few hours to the south has many historical sights, and is the hub for reaching the must-see Roman city of Ephesus. Şirince is a pleasant inland village, renowned for its wines. Tire an hour away is a traditional Aegean town with a large open-air market. Ödemiş is another traditional town; Birgi further east is one of the prettiest in the country. Kemalpaşa 30 km east was the summer capital of the Empire of Nicaea, and has the ruined Laskaris Palace. Manisa northeast over Sabuncubeli Pass is the hub for visiting Sardes, the capital of ancient Lydia, and Mount Sipylus with forest scenery and mythological sites. Bergama north has the ruins of Pergamon, among the top sights in the country. Istanbul to Izmir is a network of itineraries over this culturally rich part of Turkey.