Inner Hebrides

Understand

The Inner Hebrides are a large, scattered archipelago; what they have in common is their rugged, thinly populated terrain. Their land was always too poor for anything beyond subsistence farming, eked out with fishing. In the 19th century the population was systematically (and sometimes violently) evicted from their small farms by the landlords, and the land turned over to sheep-grazing and deer-stalking - the “Highland Clearances” still bewailed in local oral history. Later redevelopment schemes came to little; but in the 20th century tourism developed as transport and island accommodation improved. Gaelic culture and language did survive, though if you hear it spoken, it may just be a college lecturer from Wisconsin showing off. A long weekend will do fine for any of the islands. Cross your fingers for the weather: when it’s good it’s glorious, when it’s poor it’s misery. Summer brings tourists and clouds of midges – think twice about camping if you react badly to bites. Winters are very quiet, and many facilities shut down when the clocks go back in October. At any time of year but especially October through to March you need to consider how you'd fare if your homeward ferry or flight was cancelled by bad weather.

Getting there

By plane There are daily Loganair flights from Glasgow (GLA IATA) to Islay and Tiree. A tiny plane links Oban (OBN IATA) with Coll, Tiree and Colonsay, but baggage limits are restrictive, and Oban has no passenger air connection to the global network.

By rail There are no rail bridges to the islands. The mainland terminals are at Kyle of Lochalsh and Mallaig for Skye (and Small Isles from Mallaig) and at Oban for Mull, Coll, Tiree and Colonsay. Kyle of Lochalsh has trains from Inverness, and Oban has trains from Glasgow Queen Street. From London you usually change in Glasgow, but the Highland Sleeper from Euston has a portion for Inverness and another for Fort William, change for Mallaig.

By boat Calmac ferries sail from Kennacraig to Islay, from Mallaig to Skye and the Small Isles, and from Oban to Mull, Coll, Tiree, Colonsay and the Outer Hebrides. See Hebrides#Get in for cruise ships sailing in these waters. Or sail your own yacht or motor-boat there.

By road You can drive all the way to Skye on A87, which crosses on a toll-free bridge. Buses from Glasgow follow that route, running 2 or 3 times a day to Portree (7 hours) and Uig the ferry port for the Outer Hebrides. Another scenic route is to leave A82 at Fort William and follow A830 ("The Road to the Isles") via Glenfinnan and Arisaig to Mallaig, for the ferry to Armadale. For Oban, leave A82 at Tyndrum and follow A85 west. For Kennacraig, leave A82 at Arrochar on Loch Lomond, and follow A83 west then south.

Getting around

You need a car on Skye, Mull, Islay and Jura; you probably need one on Tiree, Coll and Colonsay. These are large islands, with lonely miles, summer downpours, and midges, midges, midges. The few buses are either linking to incoming ferries, or for school run; so there's only one or two per day, not convenient for sight-seeing. Walking or bicycle will do fine for the smaller isles.

See

Duart Castle is near Mull's ferry port Craignure. Dunvegan Castle on Skye is in an impressive coastal setting. Several more lie in ruins. Kinloch Castle on Rùm is a huge Victorian country mansion. You can only admire it from outside, as it's fallen into disrepair. Best of the Hebridean scenery is along the Trotternish Peninsula on Skye. There are good birdwatching opportunities on the RSPB reserves on Mull, Islay and Coll.

Do

Plenty of good beaches, notably those on Tiree and Islay. Their west coasts are exposed to the Atlantic and good for windsurfing. Walking: and you can make full circuit of the smaller islands. Golf courses are on the sandy "machair" terrain of the larger islands. Bars in the larger settlements have live music, and village halls have occasional ceilidhs. Skye and Mull have Highland Games in summer, with much tartanry and bagpipe-blowing.

Eat

Eating places, like accommodation, are individually run - there are almost no chain restaurants. In many places the hotel may be the only place to eat in the evening, with last orders as early as 8PM. The seafood including shellfish is often locally sourced. Some good cheeses are made on Mull. For self-catering fill up the car with supplies (and fuel) before leaving the mainland. All the islands have small stores, and there are Co-op supermarkets on Mull, Skye and Tiree.

Drink & nightlife

Islay is ringed by whisky distilleries, producing peaty single malts. Laphroaig has the strongest peat taste, much appreciated by connoisseurs but maybe not the best for beginners. Jura has a single distillery, producing a variety of single malts, some peated. Mull has a distillery in Tobermory. Its whisky is sold as Ledaig (peaty) or Tobermory (smoother) brands. On Skye there is the Talisker distillery at Carbost. Small artisan gin distilleries are here and there. There are breweries on Skye and Colonsay.

Go next

It's a choice of continuing west out to sea to the Outer Hebrides, or returning to the mainland.