Fortaleza

Understand

History Some local historians fiercely defend the thesis that the very first European to set foot in South America was the Spaniard Vicente Yáñez Pinzón, who allegedly landed where Fortaleza's port is today in January 1500, a few months before Portuguese navigator Pedro Álvares Cabral's much celebrated arrival in Porto Seguro on April 25. The official history of Fortaleza as a permanent settlement dates back to the 17th century, when the Dutch had a brief dispute with the Portuguese over the territory. The first settlement was known as Fort Schoonenborch and it was founded by the Dutch West Indian Company in 1649. During Portuguese and Brazilian rule, the city has had several names, always beginning with Fortaleza (fortress in Portuguese). Probably the most proudly remembered occasion of local history was the abolition of slavery in 1884, four years ahead of Brazil as a whole. The mulatto Dragão do Mar, native of Aracati, reached a near-mythical status for his role in the boycott of slave ships starting in 1881, and is still widely recognized.

Culture The author José de Alencar is so important for the identity of the city of Fortaleza (and also the state), that its inhabitants are nicknamed Alencarinos. He eagerly discussed the origins of the people, languages and geographical names of the region. Most important in this context is the novel Iracema, with its renowned main character lending her name to several neighborhoods and inspiring statues around town.

In Brazil, Fortaleza is famous for the forró music and dance, and its crop of comedians. Cearenses (people born in Ceará) are also famous for their ease and fondness for a good verbal joke, from which derives a colorful and hilarious local vocabulary (e.g. a very ugly person is "a dog sucking mangoes"). Travellers with any degree of fluency in Portuguese are likely to be amazed. Traditional folklore, a fusion of European, African and native traditions, is manifested through dances and songs unique to this region:

Bumba-meu-boi or Boi-Ceará — songs and dances with Luso-Iberican influence dedicated to the religious cult of the ox Dança do coco — of African origin, this is a dance danced by males on the beach but elsewhere it's danced by couples Torém — an indigenous dance originating among the Tremembé people Maracatu — a dancing procession of African origin originally danced to honor kings Violeiros, Cantadores e Emboladores — a musical manifestation, often used as a way to express social criticism Reisado — an event held every Epiphany, where people go from house to house singing and dancing an

Getting there

By plane

1 Pinto Martins International Airport (FOR IATA) (in the Serrinha district, 7 km from downtown Fortaleza.), ☏ +55 85 3392-1234. The terminal was opened in 1998 and extended in 2014 for the FIFA World Cup. Services here include federal police, post office, health authorities, Internet cafe, tourist information and travel agencies. There are flights from almost every major city in Brazil and internationally from Bogotá Buenos Aires (Gol), Frankfurt (Condor), Lisbon (TAP), Miami (LATAM) and Praia (Cabo Verde Airlines). The status of flights can be checked online. Allow at least an hour for immigration control if you fly in from abroad. Double it if there is another international flight shortly before yours.

From the airport to the city There is an urban bus 404 Aeroporto/Benfica which runs frequently between the airport and the center, where you can find buses to virtually anywhere in Fortaleza (not recommended at night). This bus also stops at the main bus station. Going to the urban beaches can either be done this way, or by crossing the parking lot(keep slightly to the right) and the highway (somewhat on your left) and catch the 027 Siqueira Papicu/Aeroporto, which will take you pretty straight to Praça Portugal/Shopping Aldeota in 25 minutes, traffic allowing. (Not recommended at night) From here you can either walk some 7 blocks along Avenida Desembargador Moreira to the beach of Meireles, or you can wait for Circular 1 which passes within a block of most hotels in Meireles and Praia Iracema. Reverse this process (start with Circular 2) to get to the airport, which is slightly easier as the bus then stops right in front of the terminal, and not on the highway. There are two types of taxis, follow the signs: Airport taxis are more expensive, and have fixed prices. Most tourist areas fall within the most expensive zone, charging R$ 32.40 (R$ 48.60 on rate 2). Regular taxis offer just about the same comfort, and run on the meter, stopping at about R$ 25 (R$ 40 rate 2) to Praia de Iracema or Meireles. Bargaining is tough out here, but fairly easy in the opposite direction.

By bus

2 Rodoviária João Tomé, ☏ +55 85 3230-1111. The main bus station has buses to most all of the country, often via connections. Expresso Guanabara has the most extensive network from here, and also sells tickets near Beira Mar: Loc Autos, Av. Abolição 1840 and Bem Estar Tur, Rua Tabajaras 580. Note that most lines within the state of Ceará have their last coach leaving 18:00-19:00. Buses to neighbouring towns, within some 100 km, often leave from the train stati

Getting around

Orientation Most tourists will not go more than 5 blocks from the sea, except for the airport and bus station, and perhaps a shopping mall. The following main streets will take you from the city centre to the fish market, by way of Dragão do Mar and the beaches Iracema and Meireles, totalling some 6 km: Avenida Almirante Barroso, Av. Beira Mar (until Rua Ildefonso Albano, where it's cut off by an artificial beach -the aterro.), Av. Historiador Raimundo Girão, Av. Beira Mar (from Av. Rui Barbosa). This last three km section of Beira Mar (literally Sea Side) is by far the most attractive part of the city, with police stands and patrols making it fairly safe around the clock, although rather deserted from midnight to dawn. The Avenida Beira Mar with its broad pavement stops at the fish market. From here to the beach of Praia do Futuro is the port area, backed by a refinery and slums. Walking here at daytime can be risky; at night, it's asking for trouble.

By subway

The Metrofor network consists as of 2024 of three operational lines; the South line, the West line and the Parangaba - Mucuripe line.[1] . The latter is touching on tourist ground. More lines are in construction or planning. A single ticket costs R$3.60, for students half the price.

By bus Like any major Brazilian city, Fortaleza can be done almost entirely by bus. Ticket price is R$ 4.50 (Sundays and a few holidays R$ 3.90), and if you get off at a terminal (there are nine such bus terminals in Fortaleza) you can change lines without paying again. But if you change buses somewhere else, you will need to buy a new ticket. Most lines run 7 days a week 05:00-23:00, give or take. The lines listed here, deemed most useful for tourists, will run roughly every 10 minutes daytime weekdays, frequencies perhaps halved nighttime and weekends, and down to once an hour after midnight. Only the most useful parts of the routes are described. Some lines have the number 1 or 2 after their names, only to indicate direction, others don't. The same bus with the same number and name could be running either from A to B, or from B to A. Ask!

Centro/Beira Mar Caça e Pesca is comfy and air conditioned. It runs Beira Mar and all along Praia do Futuro. Returning it swaps Beira Mar for Abolição. This bus can get very packed from Praia do Futuro before sunset. Risk of muggings at Praia do Futuro bus stops after dark. Circular 1/2 - runs 24 hours a day Downtown - Mercado Central - Dragão do Mar - Historiador Raimundo Girão - Abolicão - Desembargador Moreira/Shopping Aldeota. Grande Circular 1/2 - runs 24 hours a da

See

Quite an effort has been put into restoring colonial architecture over the last years. Still there is no area that is completely "clean", but the stretch from the beachfront of Praia de Iracema, via Dragão do Mar and to Praça do Ferreira is steadily improving and worth a walk. One thing worth seeing is the sunset, either from Ponte Metalica, Praia Iracema, or the beach by the fish market, Mucuripe.

Architecture and statues Several architectural styles are represented in Fortaleza contemporary (Centro Cultural Dragão do Mar), modern (Mausoleum of Castelo Branco), classical (Museu do Ceará), neo-classical (central railway station), art deco (Cine São Luis), art noveau (Theatro José de Alencar) and neo Gothic (cathedral).

1 Theatro José de Alencar, Praça José de Alencar. A theater on the south side of the eponymous square. The architectural landmark of the city, and also declared a National Historic Landmark. Finished in 1912, there are performances almost every evening. Visits every hour on the hour, except noon. R$ 4, 30 minutes. (updated Jan 2021) 2 Metropolitan Cathedral of Fortaleza (Igreja da Sé), Rua Sobral 1, ☏ +55 85 3231-4196. Its sooty façade gives the cathedral a somewhat brutal look. But it still has nice mosaics, and the 75-m-high towers and its size (its capacity is 5000 persons) are impressive. The main western façade has large windows and the sun lights up the church during the evening mass. French architect George Mounier allegedly was inspired by the Cologne cathedral. Note the 40 year span between the initial works and the inaugural mass, above the main entrance. Masses daily except Mondays. 3 Estoril, Rua dos Tabajaras 397, Praia de Iracema (Near Pirata Bar). This mansion, built in 1925 as Vila Morena, and later used as a casino, a restaurant (when its current name was applied) and a rather political bar, is of peculiar architecture. It was virtually rebuilt in the 1990s, and is undergoing another refurbishment to be used for public cultural arrangements. 4 Mercado dos Pinhões, Praça Visconde de Pelotas, Praia de Iracema (2 blocks inland from the shops at Rua Monsenhor Tabosa). This former meat market was imported piece by piece from Europe and set up in 1897. Refurbished and now used as a handicrafts fair with a variety of cultural events five days a week from Afro-Brazilian culture and art to contemporary dance and the local forró music style. 5 Ponte dos Ingleses (Metálica), Rua dos Cariris (Praia de Iracema). Construction of this pier started in 1923, but it has never functioned as a port as intended. Its sunset view is reput

Do

The monthly listing Olheiro can befound in the receptions of most large hotels, or downloaded as .pdf.

Beaches

There are two nice city beaches, 1 Praia de Iracema and 2 Meireles. Some people discourage bathing here (see Stay healthy), although they are often rated green by authorities. Iracema is often the place for large events and gatherings, in particular the New Year celebrations. The whole stretch from the Ponte Metálica (aka Ponte Inglesa) pier to the fish market is paralleled by the Avenida Beira Mar, very nice for an evening stroll. A string of shacks line the beachfront, mostly good for drinking and people watching. Some of these, particularly when serving in the sand, have up to three different menus with varying prices. Sunbeds can be charged up to R$ 30 a day, although the real price is R$ 3–5. Unless otherwise stated, cross the street for food. The busiest strip (with the most expensive beer), including the bulk of beggars, prostitutes and vendors, is right in front of McDonald's, to avoid these go east of the market. A selection listed from west (Praia de Iracema) to east (Fish market):

Babagula, more sandwiches, playground for children. Subway is cohabiting. Satéhut, Dutch-run with some Indonesian on the menu. Clean toilet! Veraneio, the hedges protect you! Joca, LGBTQ+-friendly bar, it serves cold beer, caipirinhas, and excellent regional seafood right on the sand. Beira Mar Grill, decent food. Volta da Jurema, near Othon Palace. Nice sunset. G2, a notch cheaper than the rest.

The most attractive urban beach is 3 Praia do Futuro, about 5 km (unsafe to walk) from Meireles. Windy, with rather strong currents and undertows, swimming can be a challenge, but for a dip it's fine. Some 150(!) beach shacks, here a selection from north (closest to Beira Mar) to south, with their special features:

Marulhos. Reggae music and good food. Try the escondidinho. CrocoBeach. Plenty gringos. "After Beach" with live music on Sundays, sunset to eightish, no forro, Taxi drivers get a R$ 2 commission for each head they land here, get a discount on the fare! Sorriso do Sol. Reggae. Vira Verão. Young Brazilian crowd. If you're lucky, you'll get a table. Vila Galé. Belongs to the hotel. Perhaps the neatest appearance, definitely the most expensive! Chico do Caranguejo. Clean, popular, good food, specializing in crab, sometimes live music. Côco Beach and Boa Vida. Mainly foreigners and their crew, live forró! The slums (favelas) of the city are next to Praia do Futuro, and that the beach may not be safe even in daytime. Nevertheless, as tourism business ha

Buy

The state of Ceará has a large textile industry, and arguably the cheapest clothing in Brazil. Also the capital of hammocks, varieties of which can be found ranging from less than R$ 10 to more than R$ 100. Best place to buy is the range of small shops opposite the cathedral, city centre. Changing cash euros or US dollars into reais is done close to interbank rates, meaning that it's better value than cash advances on credit or debit cards. Many travel agencies exchange money, you mostly get slightly better rates moving away from Beira Mar.

1 Pão de Açúcar. There is a very convenient Pão de Açúcar round-the-clock supermarket by the intersection of Av. Abolição and Av. Desembargador Moreira. Although more expensive than most other shops, it has a good selection of groceries, including many imports, and also some fresh foods. Fresh sandwiches and pizzas until 20:00. 2 Mercado São Sebastião. For a true abundance of fruits and vegetables, in addition to meat, fish and whatever else you could think of for your kitchen, visit Mercado São Sebastião, at the east end of Av. Bezerra de Menezes, 4 blocks south and 5 west of Praça José de Alencar in the centre. The earlier you arrive, the greater the variety. 3 Sebo O Geraldo, Rua 24 de Maio 950 (Three blocks south from Praça José de Alencar), ☏ +55 85 3226-2557. Behind a modest façade there is a vast selection of used books, including hundreds of titles in English (although much outdated) and a little something in many other languages. About R$ 5 for a paperback.

Shopping centers

4 Shopping Aldeota, Av. Dom Luiz, 500 (Praça Portugal, seven blocks from Beira Mar), ☏ +55 85 3458-1212. 220 stores on five floors, specializing in brand clothing. Also has a cinema, a food court and covered parking. 5 Shopping Del Passeo, Av. Santos Dumont, 3131 – Aldeota (near Shopping Aldeota), ☏ +55 85 3456-5500. 85 stores, mostly domestic chains. Has a cinema. 6 Shopping Iguatemi, Av. Washington Soares, 85 - Água Fria, ☏ +55 85 3477-3560. The largest mall in Fortaleza and one of the best. Everything from C&A, to Zoompe and Lacoste. A huge 24-hour supermarket, large food court and the biggest cinema in town. 7 Via Sul Shopping, Avenida Washington Soares, 4335, ☏ +55 85 3404-4000. Six floors of all kinds of stores from fashion, food and sports equipment to different services and entertainment. 8 North Shopping, Avenida Bezerra de Menezes, 2450 - Bairro São Gerardo, ☏ +55 85 3404-3000. In the west of the city, in addition to the stores also features a cinema multiplex including one 3D auditorium.

Handicraft and markets

Eat

A popular vacation destination, there is a wide variety of restaurants from steak houses (churrascarias) to pizzerias and fast food restaurants. The best concentration of restaurants in town is found in the Varjota neighbourhood, especially along Rua Frederico Borges and its side streets, starting some five blocks inland from Beira Mar. Fortaleza is a fishing port, so fresh seafood is readily available in the restaurants. If you are a bit more courageous, buy your shrimp/lobster/squid/whatever, straight from the fish market stalls, and hit one of the nearby shacks to fry it for you. One kilo of mid-sized shrimps is about R$ 15; R$ 3 for frying; then plenty of beers! Thursday is crab day in Fortaleza, especially in the many shacks at Praia do Futuro. If you prefer beef, there are options for a rodízio (grilled meats en masse with a big buffet of salads and side dishes; but watch out for expensive drinks and desserts in these establishments). Northeast (Brazil)#Eat and Brazil#Eat present some regional and national specialties worth trying. In addition to this, as you're in the topics it's easy to find:

Fresh fruits: the variety is indescribable and the prices are low. Every self respecting grocer will have at least four different types of bananas for sale. Dozens of tropical delicacies (jabuticaba, sapoti, siriguela, murici, umbu, cajarana, carambola etc. etc. etc.) are unavailable anywhere else. Go to a supermarket and check them out. Suco: juice made of fresh fruits or frozen pulps. Check the stalls to have a notion of what's best in the season. If your accommodation has bad or no breakfast, most large hotels let you take part in theirs for about R$ 10–12.

Budget

Multiple locations Bebelu. A local (Ceara state) fast food chain — locations all around the city. Brazilian-style sandwiches and salads.

City center and Praia de Iracema 1 La Massa, R. Xavier de Castro, 86. (updated Sep 2022) 2 Restaurante Boa Mistura, Rua Dom Joaquim, 46. (updated Sep 2022) 3 Bar e Restaurante O Cazuza, Praça Pelotas, 60. (updated Sep 2022) 4 Acarajé da Ieda, Esquina da Praça do Ferreira com, R. Floriano Peixoto. (updated Sep 2022) 5 Sabará Restaurante, R. Floriano Peixoto, nº814. (updated Sep 2022)

Elsewhere 6 BarChá da Égua, Av. Professor Gomes de Matos, 302. A bar in the Montese district also serving food. Typical Brazilian cuisine with a large selection of beers. (updated Sep 2022) 7 Vilany, Rua Olga Barroso, 331, ☏ +55 85 3263-5056. A simple restaurant but with fresh and delicious seafood and fish. (updated Sep 2022) 8 Satéhut, Ilha 01 Modulo 05. Locate

Drink & nightlife

Fortaleza is a forró-stronghold. Virtually any day of the week you can find a party with live music and this traditional dance, sometimes in quite modern variations (often referred to as forró universitário). On weekends you can choose from literally dozens of places. For a more genuine, tourist-free happening, you must move towards the outskirts of the city, paying up to R$ 30 by cab. Traditionally, Fortaleza nightspots have their dedicated day of the week, like Pirata (below) on Mondays. So, when asking around for a place to go, always be specific on when. For daytime drinking, which can be quite a party, specially on weekends, see the Beaches-section above. For a non-alcoholic refreshment; grab a chilled coconut from a stall at Beira Mar, starting at R$ 2!

Centro The downtown (Centro) area is surprisingly scarce on waterholes, which would be more than welcome after a hot afternoon's walking. An even more surprising exception is found in the park Passeio Público (officially Praça dos Mártires): A small kiosk with outdoor seating serving lunch and cold drinks. Daily until 17:00.

1 Internacional, Avenida Beira Mar 4456 (200 m from the fish market). Daily until midnight. With Belgian and Dutch owners Filip and Marco, has grown into a kind of ex-pats hangout, good food. Free WiFi. Occasional live music. 2 Forró do Pirata, Rua dos Tabajaras, 325 (in Pirata Bar). on Mondays (in high season also on Fridays) in Praia de Iracema. A crowd of happy tourists (many domestic) dances to forró and axé music. Overpriced at R$ 35. Most large hotels have discounted tickets for their guest (and occasionally others), ask in the reception.

Praia de Iracema The largest concentration of watering holes, very practical if you want to hit and miss and don't have a car, is at Dragão do Mar, Praia de Iracema. This area features refurbished colonial buildings, loads of open air seating, live music (sometimes charged), and happy hour beer. Fridays and Saturdays the party is everywhere:

3 Café Santa Clara, Avenida Santos Dumont, 3131. Tu-Su 15:00-22:00. Excellent coffee, some extremely sweet varieties, good bites, and extreme air-conditioning in a pleasant, old-worldly setting. Slow service, though. 4 Armazem, Avenida Almirante Barroso, 444. 23:00-04:00. The biggest party in town on Wednesdays, when it attracts mostly foreign men and a fair share of working girls. Also opens on Saturdays with a more mixed crowd. Live forro on a big stage and a separate eurotechno-lounge. Entry R$ 20. 5 Órbita Bar, Rua Dragão do Mar, 207. 20:00-04:00. Brazilian and international rock and p

Sleep

Reservations are essential in January, when Brazilian holidaymakers pack in. September–November and March–May have room for bargaining at most posted prices. Many hotels will immediately give you 30% off. Most hotels are on the strip Praia Iracema - Meireles - Mucuripe, parallel to Avenida Beira Mar, and up to about 4 blocks inland. Categories are spread about, but Praia Iracema has most budget options. Many cheap deals can be struck at Praia do Futuro, but beware of transport costs and lack of security at night.

Budget

In the tourist zone, Praia Iracema has the cheapest hotels. A number of cheap options in the city centre, but the area goes seedy and unsafe at night. Unless you have a car, and can stay at Praia do Futuro, your best cost/benefit is probably along Avenida Dom Manuel, between Av. Monsenhor Tabosa and Av. Santos Dumont -just inland from Dragão do Mar. Stick to the main street after dark! Charging up to R$ 40 for a dorm bed, hostels are sometimes outpriced by cheap single rooms in the same area.

1 Backpackers Ceará, Avendia Dom Manuel 89, Praia Iracema (Up the road from Dragão do Mar), ☏ +55 85 3091-8997. R$ 25 per person. 2 Hotel Caxambu, Rua General Bezerril 22. Modern and well-equipped. Rooms with TV and A/C singles R$ 25..

Mid-range 3 Hotel Pousada Pedra do Sal, Avenida Almirante Barroso 1006, Praia de Iracema. Refurbished 2010. Basic rooms with TV, private bathroom with shower and A/C. There’s free Wi-Fi in all public areas and buffet breakfast. doubles R$ 120. 4 La Maison, Avenida Desembargador Moreira, 201. Small, conveniently located hotel with nice rooms and friendly staff. The rooms have A/C, refrigerator, TV, phone and private bathroom. They also have private parking. Rates include breakfast and Wi-Fi. Rates from R$130 in the low season, from R$150 in July, January and major holidays. 5 Ibis Fortaleza, Rua Atualpa Barbosa de Lima, 660, ☏ +55 85 3052 2450. Just up from Holiday Inn at Historiador Raimundo Girao. Convenient for online booking and cancelling. Similar to other Ibis hotels around the world, the rooms are spartan but functional and clean and include TV, phone and private bathroom. R$ 85 single, 109 double. Breakfast R$ 10. Wi-Fi R$ 12/day. 6 Hotel Porto Futuro, Av Zeze Diogo, 7260, ☏ +55 85 3265 3365. Large rooms with balconies, most with a view to the ocean. Rates include airport transfer, Wi-Fi and breakfast. R$90 double. 7 Pousada Villa Marina, Rua Monsenhor Bruno 104 (Next to Ideal Clube), ☏ +55 85 3248 7627, [email protected]. Accommodation in large apartments, with bathroom and shower

Go next

Neighboring Maranguape includes the Cachaça Museum, hosted by Ypióca, one of the country's most widespread brands. Redenção – see the Museu Senzala Negro Liberato, a monument of slavery and liberation, with a nearby cachaça-destillery The Jazz and Blues Festival is a continuation of the carnival in Guaramiranga, the weekend after.

Out-of-town beaches

Any tour agency, and a number of pushers along Beira Mar, can offer you daytrips, and longer packages, to outlying beaches. The one thing they have in common is the price – it's fixed in between them, and it's far too expensive. If you are a group of 3-4 persons, a taxi can mostly be negotiated for less.

Cumbuco is a small fishing village, grown into a kite-surfers' paradise. Fresh water lakes with swimming nearby. Dune buggy tours. Horseback riding along the beach. A traditional fishing raft, Jangada, gives you a postcard view of the coastline. Buses from Avenida Abolição R$ 4,50. Jericoacoara is among Brazil's finest, and hence makes its way into any global listing. Buses (changing to trucks in Jijoca) twice daily from outside Praiano Palace Hotel at Beira Mar. Canoa Quebrada used to be quite rustic, attracting mostly hippies. Now it's slowly growing into a resort town. Can be done as a day trip (R$ 40, many agencies), but is worth a longer stay, particularly for its weekend nightlife. Some 16 km outside Fortaleza, at the beach of Porto das Dunas, is a huge water park with slides and other wet interactive fun, Beach Park. Stiffly priced at R$ 170 for a day. The beach right outside the park is very nice, and although you pay nothing to walk in the sand, food and drinks are 2-3 times city prices. Tour agencies in Fortaleza arrange day trips at about R$ 25. Costa Sol Ponente — A series of beaches northwest of Fortaleza. (Paracaru, Praia de Lagoinha, Fleixeiras, etc.)