Florence

Understand

Politically, economically, and culturally, Florence was the most important city in Europe for around 250 years, from some time before 1300 until the early 1500s. It is now primarily a tourist site, with the much of its non-touristic economy powered by artisans who still nonetheless sell largely to tourist and foreign customers. In the middle ages, Florentines reinvented money, in the form of the gold florin. This currency was the engine that drove Europe out of the Dark Ages, a term invented by Petrarch, a Florentine whose family had been exiled to Arezzo. They financed the development of industry all over Europe, from Britain to Bruges, Lyon and Hungary. They financed the English kings during the Hundred Years' War. They financed the papacy, including the construction of the papal palace in Avignon, and the reconstruction of St. Peter's and the Vatican when the papacy returned to Rome from the "Babylonian captivity". Dante, Petrarch, and Boccaccio pioneered the use of the vernacular — the use of a locally spoken language, rather than Latin. In their case, the vernacular was Tuscan, which, because of them, became the lingua franca for the entire Italian peninsula, and eventually the basis for standard Italian following unification in 1871. Because Dante, et al., wrote in Tuscan, Geoffrey Chaucer, who spent a lot of time in Northern Italy and who used some of Boccaccio's little stories to inspire his Canterbury Tales, wrote in English. Others started writing in French and Spanish. This was the beginning of the end of Latin as a common language throughout Europe. The Florentines, perhaps most notably Filippo Brunelleschi (1377-1466) and Leon Battista Alberti (1404-1472), invented Renaissance architecture. This architectural style revolutionised the way Rome, London, Paris and every other major city in Europe, from Barcelona to St. Petersburg, was built. Florentines were the driving force behind the Age of Discovery. Florentine bankers financed Henry the Navigator and the Portuguese explorers, who pioneered the route around Africa to India and the Far East. It was a map drawn by the Florentine Paulo del Pozzo Toscanelli, a student of Brunelleschi, that Columbus used to sell his "enterprise" to the Spanish monarchs, and which he then used on his first voyage. Mercator's famous "Projection" is a refined version of Toscanelli's map, taking into account the Americas, of which the Florentine was obviously ignorant. The western hemisphere itself is named after a Florentine writer who claimed to be an explorer and mapmaker, Amerigo Vespucci.

Galileo and other sc

Getting there

By plane The airport of Florence is Amerigo Vespucci International Airport (FLR IATA) (4 km northwest of the center), locally known as "Peretola", to which there are flights from major destinations in Western Europe. There is only one runway covered by hills, and therefore the flights that land there are relatively infrequent and expensive. The airport is connected by tram line T2 connecting the airport to the train station SMN; The station is on the south side, and ends at Piazza San Marco. The tram station is controlled, to the left of the main entrance. The trams run every 5-15 minutes (depending on the time of day) until 12:30 (02:00 on weekends). One-way tickets cost €1.70 (as of January 2024) and can be purchased with cash or credit cards at vending machines at each station. The tram ride is about 20 minutes from end to end. Taxis charge a flat rate of €25 from the airport to anywhere in the historic center of Florence, plus €1 per large item of luggage. Other airports serving Florence are Bologna and Pisa. Bologna (BLQ IATA) is the preferred option which is an hour's drive from Florence by car or train. From the airport of Bologna there are flights all over Europe when the dominant airline is Ryanair. From the airport there are also Emirates and Turkish Airlines flights, so these companies can be used to reach Bologna across Asia, Africa and Oceania. Another airport that is used is the airport of Pisa. which is an hour and a half away from Florence by train. There are fewer flights to Pisa than Bologna. So Bologna is better option. It is better to book a flight that does not land or take off in the evening, because during these hours the reliability of the trains in Italy is quite low, and it is not worth taking the risk of missing a flight, or the last train. Taxi drivers in Bologna and Pisa, if you get stuck there at night, will not agree to take you to Florence. If you are coming from North America from where there are no flights to either Bologna or Pisa, it is better to use the airport in Rome Fiumicino rather than Milan Malpensa, because from Rome the trip to Florence is much faster.

By train Frequent direct trains connect Florence with Rome (90 min), Milan (1 hr 40 min), Venice (2 hr), Naples (2 hr 50 min) and Italy's other main cities. Coming by train from other countries usually involves changing at Milan. However a direct Nightjet runs from Munich leaving around 20:00, reaching Florence around 06:00 and continuing to Rome, with the return leaving Florence towards 22:00 to reach Munich shortly after 08:00. The fare is about €100. Th

Getting around

On foot Most of the major tourist sights in Florence are within easy walking distance of each other. It is possible to walk from one end of the historic center of Florence to the other - north-south or east-west - in a half hour. Walking is not only an easy way to get around, it also offers the chance to 'take in' much more of the city life. Be warned though, that electric motor scooters are small enough to fit where cars cannot. They are relatively quiet but quick and in the summer they often travel into the plazas. Some of the streets in central Florence are closed to traffic. Many more are simply too narrow for buses to get through. Therefore, bus and car tours are not recommended. This is a very small, compact city that really needs to be seen on foot.

By bicycle There is a bike rental service organized by the city. Bikes can be hired at several points in the city (and returned to the same place). One of the most convenient for tourists is at the SMN Station. There are other locations at many railway stations, but often with restricted opening hours. In addition, some hotels provide their guests with free bicycles. Bike shops also often rent bikes and some of them organize guided bike tours in the countryside. While there are hills north and south of the center of town, almost all of the historic center of Florence is easy for bikers, because it is flat. But there is a problem: traffic is terrible, with buses, trucks, cars, motorcycles, motorbikes, bicycles, and pedestrians fighting for almost no space. However, a network of cycle paths make it often much faster to circumvent the city centre than to cycle directly through historic streets, even if the destination is in an area such as Santa Croce or Santa Maria Novella.

By taxi Taxis are available, but it may be best if you have your hotel or the restaurant you are eating at call ahead. When taxis are called by phone, the nearest one available is sent to you through the company's radio system with its meter ticking away. In Florence, it can be difficult to hail a cab from the street curb. You either call for one or get one at the very few taxi stands. One popular taxi stand is at the central Santa Maria Novella Train Station, and there are others in a few major squares. The first taxi in the taxi stand line should be available - ask in case of doubt. Most taxis do not take credit cards for payment, so be sure to have cash on hand. Taxis in Florence are relatively expensive. Tipping is not expected, unless the driver helps you carry luggage, etc.

By bus Another way of getting around is

See

Learn from Stendahl and don't try to see too much. Most tourists rush to do the Uffizi, the Duomo and the Bargello. These are indeed splendid, but you may wait hours to get in, and be jostled by tour groups. Pre-book if you know you want to see them; otherwise spread out and see stuff that is equally fine but less touristy. A long weekend here could comfortably take in a sprinkling of old churches, and a couple of museums or galleries. But leave time and energy for just enjoying the ambience. Churches: the standout is definitely the Duomo or Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. But other fine churches north of the river include San Lorenzo, Santa Maria Novella, Santa Trinita, Santa Croce, Santo Spirito, SS Annunziata and Ognissanti. Highlights south of the river are Santa Maria del Carmine and San Miniato al Monte. Art galleries: aim to do at least one of Uffizi, Pitti Palace, Accademia, Bargello and the Museum of the Works of the Duomo. They are filled with the brilliant creations of all the renaissance big names: Donatello, Verrochio, Desiderio da Settignano, and Michelangelo. There are also several modern galleries. City views: the classic panorama is from Piazzale Michelangelo, on the hillside just south of the river, and from San Miniato al Monte a little higher up. But every tour bus pauses here for photos so it can get mobbed. There is also a great view from the dome of the Cathedral or Giotto's Bell Tower, and an even greater line to climb them. Consider whether you'll benefit from buying a Firenzecard, described earlier. Florence is featured in Assassin's Creed II; see Assassin's Creed Tour.

Piazza del Duomo

The Cathedral, Santa Maria del Fiore, is an astonishing confection dominating the piazza below and the skyline above. It's the fourth largest Christian church in the world, behind the Basilica of Our Lady of Peace in Yamoussoukro, Côte d'Ivoire; St Peter's in Rome; and St Paul's in London. It's an early example of "technology-forcing" - like the US lunar missions of the 1960s, the 13th-century Florentines started building it without knowing how they'd complete it, until along came Brunelleschi and his vast crowning dome. The eye-catching facade is 19th-century. In front of the cathedral is the ornate medieval Baptistery, in use until modern times. Also in the piazza is the Bell Tower, designed by Giotto. The artwork from these buildings has been replaced by replicas, with the originals in the adjacent Museum of the Works of the Duomo. Buy a combined ticket online for €18 (concessions €3) to enter the following monuments (one entry per mon

Do

Great places to walk include along the Arno and across any of its bridges; through narrow, medieval back streets in the Santa Croce area; and in the Oltr'Arno, on the south side of the river, which is in many ways like Rome's Trastevere or Paris's Left Bank, but far, far smaller.

Climb the Duomo or Campanile: Traverse the winding staircases inside the Duomo or the nearby bell tower to see some of the best views of Florence. Not only can you see the Tuscan countryside in the distance and the impressive palaces and churches of Florence in the fore, but it also shows you just how large the Duomo is. Stroll the Boboli Gardens: These extensive gardens behind the Pitti palace provide excellent views of the city of Florence and numerous sculptures in a relaxed environment. Stop in the hilltop café, grab a drink and a seat outside and enjoy the view. Street performers strut their stuff in front of Palazzo Vecchio of an evening. Performances can range from violin duets to people dressed as sculptures. A nice place to stop while you eat your after-dinner gelato. Enjoy the view from the Piazzale Michelangelo. It's a big square on a hill, but somewhat distant from the traditional tourist sites. It's easy to reach it even on foot using the stairs called "Rampe di San Niccolò". They are on the side of the Arno RIver just in front of the national library. Do this during the summer and during the night to admire Florence's lights. Join a monastery: those aged 18-35 are invited to take a two-day spiritual retreat at Badia Fiorentina on Via del Proconsolo. Or just come to hear sung vespers at 18:00 and mass at 18:30 nightly in this peaceful church, filled with artwork. It's central yet virtually free of tourists. Football: ACF Fiorentina play soccer in Serie A, Italy's top tier. Their home ground Stadio Artemio Franchi (capacity 43,000) is 2 km northeast of city centre.

Further out Impruneta spa, Via Cassia 217, Terme di Firenze (from the city of Florence, take the Autostradale Firenze - Siena and the SR2; the spa is on a lefthand turnoff from the R2, approximately 13 km south of the city of Florence). The thermal waters of Impruneta spring from two sources and are used to treat respiratory diseases, liver, gastrointestinal, and skin allergies.

Buy

There are a few places to buy things, from the high-end jewelry stores lining the Ponte Vecchio to some of the most famous shops in the world — Gucci, Pucci, Ferragamo, Valentino, Prada, Armani, Ermenegildo Zegna, Buccellati, Frette — as well as many more wonderful shops that aren't yet world famous. Souvenirs related to art and Florence's sights can be found everywhere. Books, leather goods, art handcrafted journals, frames, pencils etc. in that gorgeous Florentine paper with swirls of color and gold are great gifts. It is increasingly difficult to find bargains, but keen-eyed shoppers can still find good deals on smaller side streets running off of those above and elsewhere in the centre of town. Better stores in/near the city centre offer superb leather, sometimes at decent prices, perhaps after some bargaining. Goldsmiths on the Ponte Vecchio display beautiful, quality work but can be very expensive. Shops that are not in the very centre of the city are significantly cheaper. There are also superb shopping streets, such as Via Tornabuoni, Via del Parione, and Via Maggio. The San Lorenzo Market is now largely for tourists. There are also a couple of collections of "outlets" in the suburbs. Some of the most uniquely Florentine shops and sights can be found in the Oltrarno, which is Florence's "Left Bank" and home to countless generations of artisans. This section of town can be found by crossing "Ponte Vecchio" (the old bridge) or Ponte Trinità from the center. This "undiscovered" Florence is a must-see.

Enoteca Mondovino, Via S. Agostino 27-29/R, ☏ +39 055 215214. Decent wine and liquor store with interesting collection of potable bitters in the back (Italian and German). 1 Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, Via della Scala 16 N. With roots dating to 1221, this shop sells high-quality beauty products like soaps, shaving cream, eau de Cologne and Carta D'Armenia incense papers in a shop that was once the chapel of San Niccolò.Worth entering even just to see the space and smell the herbal products made from historic recipes. Has a nice cafe on site, with plenty of herbal teas. (updated Feb 2026) Pitti Vintage - Italian & European Vintage Clothing & Accessories, Borgo degli Albizi 72r, ☏ +39 055 230 2676, [email protected]. Fendi, Ferragamo, Gucci, Lancetti, Valentino. Specializes in Italian and European designer and one-of-a-kind vintage pieces. Cose Del 900 - Italian Glass Connection, Borgo San Jacopo 45R (Just two minutes from Ponte Vecchio.), ☏ +39 055 283 491, [email protected]. M-Sa 10:30-19:30

Eat

Restaurants have separate prices for food that is taken away or is eaten standing up versus sit down; don't try to sit at a table after paying for food or coffee from the restaurant's take away booth. Also ask always beforehand for the price if you want to sit at a table. Otherwise you might be uncomfortably surprised. Cappuccino al banco i.e. standing up might cost €1-3, but at a table €4. Florence's food can be as much of a treat to the palate as the art is a treat to the eye. There is good food for any price range, from fine restaurants to take out food from window stands. You will find the best price/quality ratio outside the historical centre, where locals go to eat. The worst ratio is probably in the neighbourhood of Mercato di San Lorenzo or immediately south of the Duomo where there are a lot of tourist restaurants. Conversely many of the best restaurants in the city are found in the Santa Croce district or across the river in the Oltrarno. In many trattorias requests for pizza may be met with a rebuff as not every trattoria will have a pizza oven. For local pizza look for smaller establishments in the Sant'Ambrogio district. The best lunch places don't always turn out to be the best dinner places. Dinner in Florence really starts some time between 19:00 and 21:00. If a place looks like they're preparing to close before 20:00, it might not be the best option for an evening meal. Typical Tuscan courses include bistecca alla fiorentina which is huge t-bone steak weighing from 500g to 1,500g. It has always price given per 100g, e.g. €3.5 etto (an etto is a "hectogram" or 100 gram-ettogrammo). crostini toscani are crostini with Tuscan liver pâté. There is also a uniquely Florentine fast food with a 1,000-year history - lampredotto, a kind of tripe (cow stomach, or calf for preference, but a different part than the more familiar white "honeycomb" kind, dark brown in color; the name comes from its wrinkled appearance, which apparently reminds locals of a lamprey fish). The trippaio set their carts in the public squares in the centre, dishing out the delicacy straight from the cauldron in which it is being boiled with herbs and tomatoes, chopping it and slapping the portions between halves of a Tuscan roll; the top is dipped in the broth. A mild green parsley- or basil-based sauce or a hot red one goes with it. There are many gelato (Italian ice cream) stands; some connoisseurs consider the better Florentine gelato the finest in the world. Often gelato is made in the bar where you buy it. Because of this there are many exotic flavors of ice cream like w

Drink & nightlife

Tap water is safe but those who prefer bottled water will find it plentiful. Still (naturale) and sparkling (gassata) water is available for free from a fountain set into the wall of the Palazzo Vecchio. Make sure to sample the excellent wines of the region. Chianti is the local wine that can be ordered cheaply. Many eateries will offer carafes of various sizes of "house chianti", usually for under €4.

Bars La Cite. A very nice and cozy cafe/bookstore. Good prices, nice atmosphere, good books. Borgo San Frediano 20r. Enoteca Le volpi e l'Uva, ☏ +39 055 2398132. The must of the tasting wines and savory titbits. Piazza dei Rossi, 1. Uffizi Museum The bar at this museum offers an amazing view overlooking la Piazza della Signoria, but it's only accessible through the museum, so you'll have to buy a ticket. Irish Pub (The Fiddlers Elbow) Piazza Santa Maria Novella. This pub has plenty of seating, in addition to live music and great staff. Bebop-great coverbands everynight and a €4 pint. Can be found north of the Duomo on the right on Via Dei Servi, before you reach Piazza d Annunziata. Ambrosia - Found in Piazza de Ambrosia. This is primarily a wine bar, and you can sample some great wines at a low cost provided you come with friends and share the price of whole bottles. Rivoire Piazza della Signoria. Founded in 1872 this terrace facing the Palazzo Vecchio is a Florentine institution. Paszkowski or Gilli. On the Piazza Republica, next to the hotel Savoy. The terraces on the other side of the piazza are equally pricey. Été, Via Faenza 63. A lovely little café with warm service and good local beer and wine. €3 draft beer.

Clubs Cavalli Club, Piazza del Carmine, 8. Roberto Cavalli, Italian fashion designer, has one his beautiful clubs in Florence. The inside has a stage with a projector of Roberto Cavalli's fashion shows running non-stop. The upstairs can be a private lounge for parties or VIP section on certain nights. This club was the most popular on Wednesday nights, but it’s open on the weekends as well. It’s black and leopard interior fits the natural and animalistic designs Roberto Cavalli creates. Roberto and his two sons are frequently at the club so look out! All ages are appropriate and the dress attire here is rather upscale. This is not just a seasonal club so all year visitors are encouraged to go. Drinks run about €10 each. 1 Bamboo Lounge Club, Via Giuseppe Verdi, 57/R, ☏ +39 3394298764, [email protected]. 23:00-04:00. Bamboo Lounge Club is a great place for young adults and students to party. The music is great from Europ

Sleep

As elsewhere the price of hotels in Florence has been climbing quickly in the last few years. The golden rule here is if you want something cheap you'll have to stay outside of the historic center. The area around the train station is cheaper, but not as safe, especially for women travelers at night. If you are looking at big chain hotels you should be aware that they are usually quite a distance from the centre, the Novotel for instance is almost at the airport. Certain hotels, particularly those oriented toward business travellers offer special reduced rates during the weekend (e.g. Starhotel Michelangelo) or during slow weeks like Baglioni. Sometimes you can also get a substantial discount by reserving online. In the train station there is a tourist information office which also offers hotel reservations; you can often get good deals through them at the very last minute, but it's not guaranteed. Keyboxes on building exteriors for vacation rental apartments are banned in the UNESCO centre. Confirm check-in arrangements, as self-check-in may be restricted.

Budget There are quite a number of one or two star alberghi within a short distance of the station. Young women can find accommodation with certain convents at very low prices, and usually in historic locations. On the other hand, you'll have to forget about any late-night Tuscan craziness.

Camping There are campsites round the edge of town: to SW is Ostello Tasso Ente, north is Elite Firenze Gestioie SRL, NE is Camping Albergue, east is Me & Mom in Tuscany, and 3 others further east in Rovezzano. Camping Michelangelo south of town has closed.

Hostel 1 Hostel Florence Experience, Via Maggio, 9 (Close to Ponte Vecchio and Palazzo Pitti), ☏ +39 055 293215, fax: +39 055 293215, [email protected]. A hostel in a historic Florentine noble palace built in the 14th century and modified in the 17th century. Rooms are occasionally clean. from €18 (dorm) and €22 (private double room/per person). (updated Oct 2018) Hostel Archi Rossi, Via Faenza, 94r (Close to SMN train station), ☏ +39 055 290804, fax: +39 055 2302601. Never mind the renaissance-kitsch walls. Rooms are clean and rates include breakfast, dinner (except Saturdays) and internet access. from €18 (dorm) and €26 (private room/per person). (updated Oct 2018) Hostel 7 Santi, Viale Dei Mille, 11 (Campo di Marte, 10 min from the center by bus), ☏ +39 055 5048452, fax: +39 055 5057085, [email protected]. A converted 19th-century convent. Rooms are clean and quiet. Has dorm bunks and private rooms. Dorms from €20. (updated Oct 2018

Go next

Florence is a great starting point and base for a tour of Tuscany. Attractive day trips include Pisa, Lucca, San Gimignano, Arezzo, Pistoia, Fiesole, Lucignano, Siena, and of course the wine zone of Chianti. Greve in Chianti is the market town of the Chianti zone and it is in the hills surrounding Greve that you can rent a B&B room or a small apartment on a working vineyard for less than a hotel in Florence. The SITA Pullman buses take you to Greve and Panzano in about an hour. From then on you see few cars and many cypress and olive trees. The SITA bus station is just west of the train station in Florence. This is where to go to catch a bus to Siena, San Gimignano, and so on. If you're at the roundabout, facing the train station, go 90 degrees left and stay on the left until just past the fork. You will see the entrance to the SITA garage on your right. 1 Fiesole. A town in the hills above Florence, only a short bus ride away from the centre. It offers a beautiful view of the sunset, and a small museum located on ancient Roman and Etruscan ruins of a temple, an amphitheatre and a pretty, small duomo. 2 World War II Florence American Cemetery and Memorial (12 km (7.5 miles) south of Florence on the west side of Via Cassia. The Rome-Milan highway passes near the cemetery. 20 min bus ride from the Sita Station, just ask agent (get a return ticket)). Open daily except for 25 December and 1 January; 09:00-17:00. The cemetery is the final resting place for 4,402 American military dead lost during the capture of Rome and the battle for the Apennines. A monument is inscribed with the names of 1,409 Americans whose remains were never found or identified. The atrium of the chapel contains marble maps of World War II Italy campaign. Free to enter. Biking options outside of the city include the Chianti area, where you can fully enjoy the hills and the elegance of the landscape surrounding you, which has been taken care of endlessly through centuries. Strong scents can be enjoyed in Spring. The warm temperatures and usually stable weather in the good seasons can make the ride even more enjoyable. If you feel more energetic, ascents to Vallombrosa from Pontassieve through Tosi can be very enjoyable. You start from the Arno river plain and you end up in a thick, shady, fresh forest. In all cases, avoid the hottest hours in Summer and be aware of the traffic, which can be heavy and not cyclist-savvy, until you get in secondary or less populated roads. UNESCO World Heritage Listed rural building complexes (Medici Villas and Gardens) are scattered around Florence: 3 Ga