Essen
Germany · Europe

About Essen
Essen is the central and, after Dortmund, second-largest city of the Ruhr, the largest urban area in Germany. Its population of 574,682 makes it the fourth-largest city of North Rhine-Westphalia after Cologne, Düsseldorf and Dortmund, as well as the tenth-largest city of Germany. Essen lies in the larger Rhine-Ruhr metropolitan region, second largest by GDP in the EU, and is part of the cultural area of Rhineland. Due to its central location in the Ruhr, Essen is often regarded as the Ruhr's "secret capital".
Two rivers flow through the city: the Emscher in the north, and the Ruhr River in the south, which is dammed in Essen to form the Lake Baldeney and Lake Kettwig reservoirs. The central and northern boroughs of Essen historically belong to the Low German Westphalian dialects area, and the south of the city to the Low Franconian Bergish area.
Essen is seat to several of the region's authorities, as well as to eight of the 100 largest publicly held German corporations by revenue, including four DAX-listed corporations. Essen is often considered the energy capital of Germany with E.ON and RWE, Germany's largest energy providers, both headquartered in the city.
Essen is also known for its impact on the arts through the Folkwang University of the Arts, its Zollverein School of Management and Design, and the Red Dot industrial product design award. In early 2003, the universities of Essen and the nearby city of Duisburg were merged into the University of Duisburg-Essen with campuses in both cities and a university hospital in Essen. In 1958, Essen was chosen as the seat of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Essen, often referred to as the diocese of the Ruhr (Ruhrbistum).
Founded around 845, Essen remained a small town within the sphere of influence of an important ecclesiastical principality, Essen Abbey, until the onset of industrialization. The city then—especially through the Krupp family's iron works—became one of Germany's most important coal and steel centres. Essen, until the 1970s, attracted workers from all over the country; it was the fifth-largest city in Germany between 1929 and 1988, peaking at over 730,000 inhabitants in 1962. Following the region-wide decline of heavy industries in the last decades of the 20th century, the city has seen the development of a strong tertiary sector of the economy. The most notable witness of this structural change (Strukturwandel) is the Zollverein Coal Mine Industrial Complex, which had once been the largest of its kind in Europe. Ultimately closed in 1993, both the coking plant and the mine have been listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site since 2001.
Notable accomplishments of the city in recent years include the title of European Capital of Culture on behalf of the whole Ruhr area in 2010 and being selected as the European Green Capital for 2017.
Essen travel guide
Understand
With almost 582,000 inhabitants (2020), Essen is a service and administrative city, with several large companies headquartered here. Essen is a regional centre of the Ruhr area. Although its history goes back a long way, it was not until the middle of the 19th century that it grew from a small town to a large industrial city, with over 750,000 inhabitants at its heyday. Essen was famous as a classic heavy industry centre; this has changed since the 1970s. Only a few symbols remain from the former mining industry. Steel production is no longer as important as it used to be. Like the rest of the Ruhr area, Essen is affected by emigration. From 1990 to 2008 alone, the population fell by almost 50,000. However, unlike most of the Ruhr area, Essen's economy is one of the strongest in Germany; it houses numerous energy companies (thus giving it the title of "energy capital of Germany") and logistics firms. The meaning of the city name is unclear; it probably means "(place in) the east".
Tourist information 1 Essen Tourism Office Im Handelshof, Kettwiger Str. 2-10, ☏ +49 201 8872 333. 10:00-18:00 daily. (updated Nov 2019)
Getting there
By plane Nearby commercial airports are:
Düsseldorf-International (DUS IATA) (about 30 km, 30 min by train; largest international airport in the area) Dortmund Airport (DTM IATA) (ca. 45 km; used by some no-frills airlines) Cologne Bonn Airport (CGN IATA) (ca. 77 km) Weeze Airport (NRN IATA) (about 80 km away): a base for Ryanair, direct shuttles can be booked ahead of time. Otherwise, expect to spend 1 hr by car or train)) There is also the Airport Essen/Mülheim ESS IATA, 7.00 km (4.35 mi) from Essen centre, which is only used for private General Aviation, sitting on the border between Essen and Mülheim, next to Autobahn A52.
By car Essen is located on Autobahn 40.
From Hanover take Autobahn 2 to 40. Autobahn 45 from Frankfurt. Autobahn 52 from Düsseldorf.
By train Essen can be reached quite easily by train. There are many express connections from Cologne, Dusseldorf, Frankfurt and other major German cities. Flixtrain serves the city. You can get here from many neighbouring cities in the Ruhr metropolitan area by regional trains. There are also multiple international connections per day from Bruxelles and Paris via the Eurostar trains.
1 Essen Central Station (Essen Hauptbahnhof), Am Hauptbahnhof 5. Transfer to local public transport. DB Lounge and info desk. Book store, drugstore and Lidl grocery store open on Sundays. The McDonald's at the city side exit is open 24/7 with limited seating at night. Lifts to all platforms. Local buses in the underpass, long-distance buses at 'Freiheit' exit. Toilets downstairs left of the main departure times board. (updated Nov 2019) 2 Essen-Altenessen station. Local station for regional trains RE3, RB32, RB35. When the main train line Duisburg - Essen - Dortmund has issues, many trains will be rerouted trough here. Transfer to light rail, trams, busses. (updated Feb 2024)
By bus Essen is part of the Verkehrsverbund Rhein-Ruhr bus and train system. See also Ruhrbahn.
3 Long distance bus station (Fernbusbahnhof). Most long distance buses arrive on the south side of the railway central station, opposite the Freiheit exit. (updated Nov 2019)
By boat The Rhine river transportation system can be reached via the Herne Kanal. Weiße Flotte Baldeney operate ships on the Ruhr river.
Getting around
Essen has an extensive Stadtbahn (light rail), tram, bus and night bus system. The Light Rail (Stadtbahn, not to be confused with mainline S-Bahn suburban trains) has 3 routes: U11 from the Messe/Grugapark, U17 from Margarethenhöhe, U18 from Mülheim, that merge together south of the central station and cross the city centre underground together, with U18 terminating at Berliner Platz, U11 and U17 passing the University and stopping in Altenessen where U17 terminates and U11 continues into Gelsenkirchen-Horst. The local tram network extends into Gelsenkirchen and Mülheim, it also runs underground in the city centre and shares some of its stations and routes with the Stadtbahn. The vast majority of trams are accessible, some stops still need to be upgraded with platforms and require boarding from the street, be careful of cars passing dangerously. Buses have a vast network that covers most of the city, including with express buses, and there is a night service during weekend nights. All buses are disabled-accessible. During off-peak times some underused routes get replaced by a Taxibus (TB) service that requires prior booking. S-Bahn trains connect the entire Ruhrgebiet and also cross Essen. There are 23 stations within the city. Taxis are available plenty and always wait in front of both exits of the central train station, but can be expensive. Base fare is €4.40 including the first kilometre, then a charge of about €2.50 per km. A 10 km trip will be about €30.00 . You can find more information about public transport fares and a journey planner at the Rhein-Ruhr Transit Association VRR and Ruhrbahn, which serves Essen and Mülheim. Essen shares its transport with Mülheim through the Ruhrbahn company, part of VRR. Tickets within Essen are fare zone (Preisstufe) A: Short-ride up to 3 stops without transfer €2.20, Single ride across Essen €3.30, 4-Ride (One stamp per ride and person) €12.50, a single day pass called "24h ticket" €8.30, 2 persons 12.50, 3 persons €16.70, 4 persons €20.90, 5 persons €25.10.
Tickets can be bought from bus drivers (only single ride and bike supplement tickets), ticket machines at most tram and Stadtbahn and many major bus stops, on your smartphone or at many kiosks. You must have a valid ticket when boarding any vehicle or face a €60.00 penalty. A customer service centre sits inside the subway station at Hauptbahnhof, open M-F 08:00-18:00 Sa 08:00-14:00, the lost and found office is inside Berliner Platz station in the underground passage, open M-F 08:00-16:00.
See
Essen has a wide offer of sights to see and do. You can explore it's vast industrial heritage, being home to heavy industry in the past, take part in its cultural life, or just enjoy the vast green spaces that are especially prevalent in the south of the city.
1 Zeche Zollverein, Gelsenkirchener Str. 181 (tram 107; bus 170, 183.), ☏ +49 201 246810, [email protected]. Grounds 06:00-16:00; visitor centre/ and museum 10:00-18:00. Called the most beautiful coal mine in the world (in fact, it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site), Zollverein nowadays hosts diverse cultural highlights including an outstanding design centre and several museums. It is also famous for its Bauhaus architecture. Museum+special exhibits €10. (updated Sep 2022) 2 Red Dot Design Museum, Gelsenkirchener Straße 181 (just beside Zeche Zollverein), ☏ +49 201 30104-60, [email protected]. Tu-Su 11:00-18:00 (closed M). Collection of 2000 exemplary pieces of product design. Adults €9, students €4, child (under 12) free. Payment by donation on Fridays. 3 Museum Folkwang, Goethestraße 41 (Metro U11 Tram 107, 108 stop "Philharmonie"), ☏ +49 201-8845000, [email protected]. Tu W Sa Su 10:00-18:00, Th F 10:00-20:00 (closed Mondays). Known for the exhibits covering the history of photography and for paintings from all eras. Free for permanent collection. (updated Aug 2022)
4 Villa Hügel, Hügel 15, ☏ +49 201-616290, fax: +49 201-6162911, [email protected]. opening hours changing, visit website for details.. Krupp family historical chateau, art history museum and concert venue. After visiting the chateau, have a nice stroll or a boat tour across the Baldeney lake. €5 for the park. (updated Sep 2022) 5 Kettwig Historical District (Kettwig station, S-Bahn S6 bus 142, 180 or Kettwiger Markt stop bus 134, 142, 151, 772, 774). Featuring 17th- and 18th-century streets and buildings in its historic centre, it was an independent city until 1975 and has retained a sense of separateness. (updated Jul 2024) 6 Old Synagogue and Jewish Culture Centre, Edmund-Körner-Platz 1 (Essen Rathaus station). Opened in 1913 for the large local Jewish community, the massive structure including its 37 m (121 ft) dome survived the Nazis and World War II. Post-war its interior was stripped by uncaring city officials and it wasn't until much later that it opened as a Jewish cultural centre in 2008. (updated Jul 2024) 7 Historic city of Werden (S-Bahn S6 Essen-Werden station). Nice historic city centre with small shops and restaurants. From the historic city centre, it's just a couple of metres to the Werden Abbey, wh
Do
International Christmas Market from late November to early December the streets and historic alleys of the city centre are filled with over 200 arts and crafts stalls. Essen Light Weeks. Enjoy Essen ("Essen genießen", this is a word play since "Essen" translates to "food" as well). Gourmet highlights in autumn. Football: SGS Essen play soccer in Frauen-Bundesliga, the women's top tier. They play at Stadion Essen (capacity 20,000) 5 km north of city centre. Rot-Weiss Essen the men's team play in 3. Liga, their third tier, at Stadion an der Hafenstraße 1 Lake Baldeney (Baldeneysee) (Essen-Hügel, Essen-Werden and Essen-Kupferdreh stations). Boat rentals, ship tour, sailing, canoeing, gastronomy on and at this large reservoir, on warm summer days you can get a tiny piece of Mediterranean flair here. (updated Sep 2015) 2 Spiel (Essen Game Fair). An annual four-day boardgame trade fair which is also open to the public held in October at the Messe Essen exhibition centre. (updated Sep 2021)
Theatre and concerts 3 Aalto-Theater, Opernplatz 10, ☏ +49 201-8122200. 4 Philharmonie Saalbau, Huyssenallee 53 (Philharmonie station, U11, 107, 108). Classic concerts of the Essener Philharmoniker and guest orchestras. 5 Grugahalle, Messeplatz 2 (Stadtbahn U11, Messe Ost / Gruga station, large parking lots and garages nearby). Sport events and concerts of national and international stars. Zeche Carl. Former coalmine, which is now used as a cultural centre. Minor arts, rock music, and cabaret. 6 Colosseum-Theater, Altendorfer Straße 1 (Berliner Platz station, use Exit "Ausgang B"), ☏ +49 180-5114113. Event location inside a brickwork factory hall, build in 1901 and used for producing gas turbines until 1991, reopened in 1996 as location for events and musicals (updated Nov 2019)
Art Small, but vivid: the art scene in Essen. Galleries allocate on the whole city region, with a concentration around the Museum Folkwang:
Galerie Frank Schlag & Cie., Meisenburgstraße 173, ☏ +49 201-180 77 72. Emerging and contemporary art. Galerie Heimeshoff, Brigittastraße 7, ☏ +49 201-230490. German art after 1945. Galerie Klaus Kiefer, Rüttenscheider Straße 56, ☏ +49 201-788266. Figurative painting. Kunsthaus Essen, Rübezahlstraße 33, ☏ +49 201-443313. Emerging art and artists. Kunstverein Ruhr, Kopstadtplatz 12, ☏ +49 201-226538. Emerging and contemporary art. Kunst-Raum, Rüttenscheider Straße 56, ☏ +49 201-79989035. Emerging and contemporary art. Galerie Neher, Kaninenberghöhe 8, ☏ +49 201-266990. Classical moderns and art after 1945. Galerie Obrist, Kahrstraß
Buy
Many shops are found in the city centre pedestrian zone. A big shopping-mall "Limbecker Platz" in the western part of the city centre opened in 2008. Also pay attention to the "Rüttenscheid" district with lot of small boutiques.
1 City centre pedestrian zone. Stretches from the train station north on and adjacent to Kettwiger Strasse. (updated Feb 2024) 2 Rüttenscheid district. Probably Essen's trendiest district, with lots of smaller specialised shops, cafes, and restaurants mainly along the main shopping and strolling promenade, Rüttenscheider Straße. (updated Sep 2015) 3 Limbecker Platz ("Berliner Platz" station). M-Sa 10:00-20:00. Large modern shopping centre, large underground car park, underground station that connects directly to the building. (updated Feb 2024) Stores at Essen Central Station (Essen Hauptbahnhof), including the discount grocery store and the drugstore, will be open on Sundays too from 09:00-20:00 as they are exempt from Federal and State Sunday closure laws. Expect crowds.
Eat
Budget All these are in the city centre:
1 Wohnraum im Unperfekthaus, Friedrich-Ebert-Str. 20, ☏ +49 201-847350, fax: +49 201-8536605, [email protected]. 10:00-22:30. Mediterranean/nouveau cuisine/vegetarian (no credit cards). (updated Apr 2022) 2 Gaststätte Im Briefkasten, Hachestraße 21. (updated Sep 2022) 3 Trattoria La Famiglia, Hindenburgstraße 9. (updated Sep 2022) 4 Tandori Haus, Friedrich-Ebert-Straße 84. Pakistani (updated Sep 2022) 5 Zagreb Grill, Rottstraße 2. Croatian (updated Sep 2022) 6 Rks Pizza, Altenessener Str. 11. (updated Sep 2022) 7 LUA - vietnamesische Küche, Lindenallee 81. (updated Sep 2022)
Mid-range 8 Hülsmannshof, Lehnsgrund 14 a (U 17: Laubenweg), ☏ +49 201-871250. 11:30–14:30 and 17:30-22:00. Home cooking. (updated Sep 2022) 9 Kockshusen, Pilgrimsteig 51, ☏ +49 201-3601166. W-M 11:30-22:00. Regional. Accepts ECcard. (updated Sep 2022) 10 Landhaus-Knappmann - Frankenheim-Brauhaus, Ringstr. 198, ☏ +49 2054-7809. M-F 16:00-00:00; Sa Su 11:00-00:00. Regional. (updated Sep 2022) 11 Der Löwe, Kopstadtplatz, 13. Kopstadtplatz. Bavarian-style restaurant. (updated Sep 2022) 12 Casino Zollverein, Gelsenkirchener Str. 181 (Tram 107: Zollverein), ☏ +49 201-830240. Tu-F 11:30–14:30, 17:30-22:30; Sa Su 11:30–14:30, 17:30-00:00. Nouveau cuisine. (updated Sep 2022) 13 Capobianco, Rottstr. 7, ☏ +49 201-226603. M-Sa 12:00-15:00 and 17:30-00:00, Su 12:00-00:00. Classic/Italian. Vegetarian options. Reservations recommended. (updated Sep 2022) 14 Cavallino Rosso, Velberter Str. 126, ☏ +49 201-404977. Daily 12:00-14:30, 17:30-23:00. Mediterranean. (updated Sep 2022) Mintrops Landhotel - Mumm, Schwarzensteinweg 81 (SB 15: Burgaltendorf Burgruine), ☏ +49 201-571710. 12:00-14:00, 18:00-23:00. Nouveau/international cuisine. Vegetarian options. (updated Jan 2016) Parkhaus Hügel, Freiherr-vom-Stein-Str. 209 (S6: Essen-Hügel), ☏ +49 201-471091. 11:30–22:30. Nouveau/International cuisine. (updated Jan 2016) Mintrops Stadthotel Margarethenhöhe - Restaurant M, Steile Str. 46 (U-17: Laubenweg), ☏ +49 201-43860, fax: +49 201-4386100. 12:00-14:30 and 18:00-22:30. Asian. Gummersbach, Fürstenbergstr. 2 (Tram 105: Heißener Str), ☏ +49 201-676464. W-M 17:00-22:30. French; reservations recommended (ECcard accepted). (updated Jan 2016) Lukas, Prinz-Friedrich-Str. 1,, ☏ +49 201-848353. Daily 18:00-23:00. Indian (accepts ECcard). (updated Jan 2016) Ange d'Or Junior, Ruhrtalstr. 326 (S6: Kettwig), ☏ +49 2054-2307. W-Su 18:30-22:30. Italian. Vegetarian options. (updated Jan 2016) La Cena, Haumannplatz 32 (Tram 106: Landgericht), ☏ +49 201-2790269.
Drink & nightlife
Isenbergplatz, Isenbergstraße 12. 09:00-02:00. Five bars around a big playground. Meeting place for students, families, punks and managers. Urban culture centre of Essen. (updated Jan 2016) 1 Daktari, Juliusstraße 2 (located 5 minutes away from main station), ☏ +49 201-2698595. 19:00-04:00. A small bar with large and delicious cocktails & long drinks. (updated Nov 2019)
Sleep
Budget Gasthaus Nordstern, Stoppenbergerstr. 20, ☏ +49 201 320810. (updated Apr 2017) Hotel am Schlosspark, Borbecker Str. 183 (RE14/S9/Tram 103: Essen-Borbeck Bf), ☏ +49 201-675001, fax: +49 201-687762, [email protected]. Ibis, Hollestr. 50 (SB15,16/Tram 103,109: Hollestr.), ☏ +49 201-24280, fax: +49 201-2428600. Landhaus Knappmann, Ringstr. 198, ☏ +49 2054-7809, fax: +49 201-6789, [email protected]. 1 Schmachtenbergshof, Schmachtenbergstr. 157, ☏ +49 2054-12130, fax: +49 2054-121313, [email protected]. 2 Sengelmannshof, Sengelmannsweg 35, ☏ +49 2054-95970, fax: +49 2054-83200. 3 Centro Hotel Korn, Hoffnungstraße 19, ☏ +49 201-221414, toll-free: 0800 - 444 00 333. Check-in: 15:00. Simple, but tidy, this is a friendly place to stay for everybody who does not need luxury. (updated May 2017) 4 WG Hotel im Unperfekthaus, Friedrich-Ebert-Str. 18 (from U/tram Berliner Platz this is located "behind" the big shopping mall), ☏ +49 201 84735-0, [email protected]. A flatshare style place mostly for groups, in a creative project house (updated May 2017)
Out of the city Das Park Hotel, Emscherinsel, Bottrop-Ebel (S9 stop Bottrop). Completely automated (i.e. only bookable online) concrete drain tubes with beds inside, you book and you're given a code for the door. Honour based system; contribute as many euros as you wish to the project. The project may have been discontinued as their booking webpage is gone. Honour system, contribute as many euros as you wish to the project. (updated Sep 2017) Zimmervermietung Ruth Schläger, Am Wildbach 7, Kettwig, ☏ +49 2054-971648, fax: +49 2054-971649, [email protected]. (updated Sep 2020)
Mid-range Europa, Hindenburgstr. 35, ☏ +49 201-232041, fax: +49 201-232656. From €70/night. Jägerhof, Hauptstr. 23 (S6: Kettwig or SB 19: Werdener Markt or Tram 110: Mülheim Wilhelmstr. or Tram 102/104/112/901: Mülheim Stadtmitte or RE1/2/6/11, S1/3, U18: Mülheim Ruhr Hbf or U11: Messe West/Süd / Gruga or Tram 101/107: Martinstr. or Tram 105: Rellinghausen Rathaus or SB15: Annental, then Bus 142/151/190: Kettwiger Markt), ☏ +49 2054-84011, fax: +49 2054-80984. (updated Jan 2016) 5 Mintrops Landhotel Burgaltendorf (Schwarzensteinweg 81, SB15: Burgaltendorf Burgruine.), ☏ +49 201-571710, fax: +49 201-5717147, [email protected]. Nice and calm place, but in the bushes. Free transport card for the whole VRR area. (updated Jan 2022) 6 Mintrops Stadthotel Margarethenhöhe, Steile Str. 46 (U17: Laubenweg), ☏ +49 201-43860, fax: +49 201-4386100. Hotel in former villa of
Go next
Düsseldorf, state capital, home to a large Japanese community, high-class shopping, and regular large festivals Cologne, rival city of Düsseldorf and known to be very open and liberal, visit the cathedral or take part in Carnival Bochum, large university city with Bermuda3Eck neighbourhood being THE party spot on weekends, large mining and railway museums Hattingen, nearby medieval town centre with Christmas market and steelworks turned museum Wuppertal, off the radar, the city stretches down a narrow valley with the Schwebebahn hanging monorail
Overview adapted from Wikipedia, travel guide fromWikivoyage (CC BY-SA)。Photography via Wikimedia Commons.