Dortmund

Understand

The city pops up first when people think of the Ruhr valley, and that's no surprise. It is the largest Ruhr city, the third largest by population after Cologne and Düsseldorf, and the geographical centre of the North Rhine-Westphalia state. Worldwide, the city is foremost known for beer (pale export/lager beer called Dortmunder) and the famous sports club Ballspielverein Borussia 09, Borussia Dortmund or BVB for short. But there is another gentler side to this former industrial powerhouse. Modern Dortmund is vibrant and cultural, well-known for excellent shopping, a range of fascinating museums and theaters, one of Germany's most surprising startup scenes (not quite on the same level as Berlin, but ahead of the rest of the Rhine-Ruhr area and even Munich), and with half the city given over to parks and gardens, enough green areas to soothe the senses. And yes, the city is no classy beauty, and rough at first glance, though pretty honest, adorable and cordial at the second.

History

Founded around the year 882, Dortmund became an Imperial Free City. Throughout the 13th and 14th centuries, it was the "chief city" of the Rhine, Westphalia, and of the Netherlandish Circle of the Hanseatic League. After the Thirty Years' War, the city was destroyed, and decreased in significance until the onset of industrialization; then, it became one of Germany's most important coal, steel and beer centres. Dortmund acquired the nickname Stahlstadt (Steel City) in the 19th century, when it became the world center of steel production. Consequently, the city was one of the most heavily bombed cities in Germany during World War II. The devastating bombing raids of 12 March 1945, with more than 1,110 aircraft, destroyed 98% of buildings in the inner city center, a record to a single target in this war. Much of what you see in the city center was built in the last 50 years. The region has adapted since the collapse of its steel and coal industries, and shifted to high technology, biomedical technology, micro systems technology and also services. In September 2017, The New York Times praised the city of Dortmund, which has adapted since the collapse of its century long steel and coal industries and shifted to high technology biomedical technology, micro systems technology and services, as the hidden star of structural change with a good quality of life for employers.

When to visit The best times for Dortmund are late spring to early autumn, its peak season for tourism. The summers tend to be sunny and warm around 25°C (77°F), during November and December 5°C.

Tourist off

Getting there

By plane 1 Dortmund airport (DTM IATA). Home of several low-cost airlines (easyJet, Eurowings, Ryanair, Wizzair), it serves mainly national and European destinations, with a noticeably heavy focus on Eastern Europe. Unusual for a German airport, there is no direct train or tram connection to the airport, but there are shuttle buses between the airport and Dortmund Central Station or Holzwickede Station. (updated Nov 2018) From and to Central Station: A non-stop shuttle-bus can be found opposite the main railway station Dortmund Hauptbahnhof (also signed as: Dortmund Hbf or DO Hbf). The journey lasts 25 - 30 min and costs €6.5 per passenger (6-14 children €2; younger children free). This bus service is not covered by a travelcard. Via Aplerbeck The municipal 490 bus travels between the Airport and Aplerbeck, where passengers can change to the Stadtbahn U47 (tram) which will go to the Hbf via the two major Stadtbahn hubs, Stadtgarten and Kampstraße. The journey is approximately 45 min. Tickets cost €3.30 for a single ride, VRR tickets and the Deutschlandticket accepted. This service runs more frequently than the shuttle bus at every 20 minutes M-F, every 30 minutes on weekends and at late hours, no service during midnight-early morning. From Holzwickede Station: A bus service (€3/passenger), runs regularly about every 15 minutes between 05:00 and 23:00. The trip to the terminal building takes approx. 5 minutes. You can walk it in 20 minutes if you are unencumbered by luggage. By taxi: The trip costs around €25 to the City Centre. Drivers operate on the meter; if they don't, get a different taxi! Duesseldorf Airport (DUS IATA) can also be used and may be a better option, especially for passengers who prefer major carriers. It is a 45-60 minute drive away from Dortmund. Direct train services also run between Dortmund Central Station and Düsseldorf Airport operated by Deutsche Bahn. Düsseldorf Airport serves a variety of long haul destinations in North America and Asia, as well as short haul services throughout Europe.

By train

2 Dortmund central station (Dortmund Hauptbahnhof), Königswall 15, 44137. This is a major stop for Deutsche Bahn (German state railway) and has over 600 departing trains on a typical weekday. There are different types of trains such as S-Bahn, Regionalbahn, and Regionalexpress. The station is a terminus for some Thalys trains (usually 3 per day). Also Flixtrain serves this train station. (updated Nov 2018) 3 Dortmund Hörde station (Bahnhof DO-Hörde), Hörder Bahnhofstraße (Stadtbahn U41, 10 mins to Dortmund city centre). This is

Getting around

Getting around in Dortmund is easy. The centre of Dortmund is not that big for a city of half a million. It is entirely feasible to walk between both ends of the centre.

By public transport Dortmund is in the VRR (Verkehrsverbund Rhein-Ruhr), a regional co-operation of local and regional transport that allows seamless transfers across cities and transport modes with the same ticket. The backbone of public transport is the Stadtbahn, a system of fast metro-style trams, that cross the city centre underground in three tunnels. These tunnels from a triangle beneath the centre, crossing at Kampstraße, Reinoldikirche and Stadtgarten stations. Dortmund central station (Hauptbahnhof) is also served by an underground station.

U41 Lünen-Brambauer - Fredenbaum - Leopoldstr. - Hauptbahnhof - Kampstr. - Stadtgarten - Stadthaus - Märkische Str. - Hörde - Clarenberg U42 Grevel - Schulte-Rödding - Brunnenstr. - Reinoldikirche - Stadtgarten - Möllerbrücke - Th.-Fliedner-Heim - Barop - Hombruch U43 Dorstfeld Betriebshof - Kampstr. - Reinoldikirche - Brackel - Wickede U44 Marten - Dorstfeld Betriebshof - Kampstr. - Reinoldikirche - Borsigplatz - Westfalenhütte U45 Fredenbaum - Hauptbahnhof - Kampstraße - Stadtgarten - Stadthaus - Westfalenpark - Westfalenhallen (arrives / continues as U46 at Westfalenhallen) U46 Westfalenhallen - Saarlandstr. - Stadtgarten - Reinoldikirche - Brunnenstraße (arrives / continues as U45 at Westfalenhallen) U47 Westerfilde - Huckarde - Hafen - Leopoldstr. - Hauptbahnhof - Kampstr. - Stadtgarten - Stadthaus - Märkische Str. - Stadtkrone Ost - Aplerbeck U49 Hafen - Leopoldstr. - Hauptbahnhof - Kampstraße - Stadtgarten - Stadthaus - Westfalenpark - Rombergpark - Hacheney During match days extra trains will run from Stadion stop, line U42 will also be crowded stopping in walking distance to the Stadium. Local bus lines run through the suburbs, connecting to Stadtbahn stops. They generally run 05:00-23:00 in frequencies from every 10 to 60 minutes, most at least half-hourly. Night buses (NachtExpress) run very early on Saturday and Sunday to bring party-goers home and have timed transfers at Reinoldikirche stop in the city centre, at standard VRR fares. The regional S-Bahn commuter system and state-wide regional trains cover Dortmund and can be used like a subway, all under VRR fares. Dortmund has an automatic monorail system, the H-Bahn (meaning hanging railway) at the University. It connects the campus with Dortmund-Universität train station and the suburb of Eichlinghofen, where transfer to buses is available. Campus Nord and Technologiez

See

1 Alter Markt. Dortmund’s marketplace for almost 900 years may have a modern aspect today, but it is still the sociable centre of the city. Up to the Second World War the town hall for the Free and Hanseatic City was located on Alter Markt. In warm weather outdoor bar and cafe seating fills the plaza and turn the square into a giant beer garden, if Borussia Dortmund plays the Alter Markt completely black and yellow. There’s a reminder of the square’s trading history at the Bläserbrunnen fountain: the horn-player stature sculpted in 1901, and the pool underneath used to be a drinking fountain for livestock. 2 Altes Stadthaus (Old Civic Hall). The Old Civic Hall, or Altes Stadthaus, a fine Neo-Renaissance structure built in 1899. A notable feature of the building’s façade is the large eagle representing the city of Dortmund. Another nearby old building worth seeing is Berswordt Hall, the Town Hall. 3 Dortmunder U, ☏ +49 231 5024723. The same way one associates the city Paris with the Eiffel Tower, London with the Big Ben or Cologne with the Dom, the city of Dortmund is associated with the U-Tower. This high-rise former brewery building has been a Dortmund landmark since 1927. It housed the Dortmunder Union Brauerei, which for a short time was the most productive brewery in West Germany. That trademark “U” on the roof was added in 1968 and stands nine metres tall. In 2010, to coincide with the Ruhr becoming European Capital of Culture, the Dortmunder U was turned into a centre of culture and creativity, hosting the Ostwall Museum, exhibition rooms, a restaurant, an art association and a campus for the Dortmund University of Applied Sciences. Throughout the day the grid of panels under the “U” displays the “flying pictures” installation by the cinematic artist Adolf Winkelmann. (updated Jun 2022) 4 Hohensyburg and Casino, Hohensyburgstraße 200, 44265, ☏ +49 231 77400. A popular destination in the south of Dortmund is the Ruins of the Syburg (year 1100) Vincke-Tower. They offer a beautiful view over the Ruhr Valley from the Kaiser-Wilhelm Memorial (end of 19th century). Next to the Ruins within the woods is the modern, glass-fronted casino hotel with live music, bars & restaurants. Jackets required for men! 5 Kokerei Hansa, Emscherallee 11, 44369, ☏ +49 231 9311220. An awesome industrial monument in Huckarde district, this is a noteworthy stop on the Ruhr’s Industrial Heritage Trail. Guided tours and audio tours are given at this hulking facility that would receive anthracite from local collieries and convert it into coke or coke-oven gas.The construction

Do

1 Bergmann Kiosk, Hoher Wall 36, 44137 (at Phoenix-West next to the Skywalk), ☏ +49 231 7002590. 16:00-21:00. Exceptional location but an absolute must for every beer lover. Old and converted bus stop with charm of "the good old days". 2 Borussia Dortmund, Westfalenstadion, Strobelallee 50, ☏ +49 231 9020 6600. Die Borussen (The Prussians) play soccer in Bundesliga, Germany's top tier. Their home ground is Signal Iduna Park (Westfalenstadion), capacity 81,359, which in 2024 hosted games in the UEFA Euro Finals. It's 2 km south of city centre with its own U-bahn and regional DB stations. Stadium tours are available. (updated Jul 2024) 3 Deusenberg, Lindberghstraße 51, 44369. The Deusenberg (120 m ü.NN) is an old slag heap in the north of Downtown - Huckarde District. Its located right next to the coking plant Hansa and 5 minutes from the port. It is a perfect place for those who want a small hike or bike ride. The 360-degree view of the surroundings is breathtaking and you can see all attractions. free. 4 Lake Phoenix, Hörder Burgstraße 11, 44263. Lake Phoenix is one of the largest urban development projects in Germany. On the area of the former blast furnace and steel plant site of ThyssenKrupp newly formed and developed a new recreational area. On a terrain nearly the size of 300 football pitches, modern living, working, restaurants and bars and lifestyle spaces are now being created. The new lake invites for walking, jogging, cycling or skating. The 3.2 km long pedestrian and bicycle paths invite visitors to relax, as well as to sporting activities. One of the highlights is a man-made lake with a surface area of 24 hectares, which is larger than Hamburg’s Inner Alster. 5 Salsa Open Airs at Dortmund Westpark, Rittershausstraße, 44137. In the Westpark there’s a remarkable community that gathers every Friday to partake in them. Some weeks up to 100 people fill the Westpark’s temporary dance-floor with passion and contagious joy. From June until the end of September everyone is welcome, regardless of whether you’re a professional or a newbie.

Culture

6 Dortmund Concert Hall (Konzerthaus), Brückstraße, 21, 44143 (Reinoldikirche or Kampstraße Subway Station), ☏ +49 231 226 960, [email protected]. Dortmund Concert Hall is a well-designed building and a feast for the eyes. It opened its doors in 2002 and ever since world famous artists have been queuing up to give their performances. Here you can listen to all kinds of music, from classical to modern and even jazz. 7 Fletch Bizzel Theater, Humboldtstraße 45, 44137 (Städtische Kliniken Subwa

Buy

Dortmund is known nationwide as a shopping destination and the shopping center of the entire region, particularly popular with visitors from nearby areas like South Westphalia, the Netherlands, Luxembourg and Belgium. The Westenhellweg is a popular shopping destination, and with nearly 13,000 visitors per hour, it is Germany's most frequented shopping street. Together with the Ostenhellweg this old trading route runs through Dortmund city centre like a pulsing vein. When Dortmund was still a Hanseatic city, wagons rolled along here laden with salt and silk, because back in the Middle Ages, the only free imperial city in Westphalia was already regarded as an important centre of trade. Today some of the most reputed shops, department stores, and labels have their stores here. It is a pedestrian-only area and is bordered by the Reinoldikirche in the east and U-Tower in the west. The Westenhellweg has one of the highest rents for retail and office space in North Rhine-Westphalia. 85 percent of the shops are retail chains such as H&M, Saturn, Esprit, Zara or NewYorker. Thier-Galerie shopping center has 100 stores and chains like Armani, Adidas, Diesel and Hollister. Three more shopping malls occupy the Thier-Galerie, Galeria Kaufhof and Karstadt as well as large fashion retail clothing stores from Peek & Cloppenburg and C&A. During the month before Christmas, the extended pedestrian-only zone is host to Dortmund Christmas Market, one of the largest and oldest Christmas markets in Germany. In close proximity to the Dortmund concert hall lies the Brückstraßenviertel, a quarter hub especially for young people. The "Rue de Pommes Frites", which is what the Dortmund citizens have called the Brückstraße for a long time, has turned into a modern, young shopping promenade. For a long time the Kampstraße had a shadowy existence as a parallel street to the Westenhellweg and Ostenhellweg, but it has now become a grand boulevard which contains specialist stores. Right next to the Kampstraße is the Kleppingstraße, an expensive shopping street with prestigious shops. Kleppingstraße is a shopping street with a high concentration of gastronomy and expensive, prestigious shops like van Laack, Lindner Fashion, and Marc Cain. It is located between the Ostenhellweg and Neutor to Wallring.

Shopping centres 1 Indupark, Wulfshofstraße 6-8 (Oespel station S-Bahn S1, Autobahn A40, 10min from Dortmund centre), ☏ +49 231 9632550. M-F 09:30-20:00, Sa 08:00-20:00. Large scale retailers surrounding large car parking, shops like IKEA, Decathlon, Kaufland, Smyths Toys Superstore and Medi

Eat

Traditional meals in the region are Pfefferpotthast (kind of Goulash with a lot of beef), Balkenbrij, Heaven and Earth (Himmel und Äd; black pudding with stewed apples mixed with mashed potatoes), Currywurst and Pumpernickel with Griebenschmalz (German lard with crispy pieces of pork skin). In summer the people like to eat a Dortmunder Salzkuchen (Bread buns with caraway fruits, salt, meat and onions). Also a special meal in the winter is Reibekuchen (fried potato pancake served with apple sauce).

Street food All these are in the city centre:

1 Böckels Beste, Ostenhellweg 5. Very good German currywurst and fries. (updated May 2022) 2 Crepe-Moni, Westenhellweg 73. Offering savoury and sweet crepes. Friendly staff. (updated Aug 2022) 3 Kartoffel Pott Marienkirche, Ostenhellweg 5. A different kind of fast food featuring potatoe pots with variations. There are also vegetarian and vegan options. Very tasty food and friendly service. (updated Aug 2022) 4 Müllinger´s, Ostenhellweg 5. Serving savoury, fruity and sweet crepes. (updated Aug 2022) 5 Wochenmarkt Dortmund, Hansaplatz. Wednesday, Friday and Saturday in the morning until early afternoon. Weekly market including prepared food. (updated Jan 2024) 6 Wurst Willi, Petrikirchhof. Popular for their tasty currywurst and fries. (updated May 2022)

Budget A wide range of different kind of fast food can be found along the street Brückstraße, a lot of vegetarian food, döner kebab, burgers, pizza and so on. On the weekends your best bet for a late night snack. Another place for various restaurants is the upper floor of the shopping centre Thier-Galerie. All these are in the city centre:

7 Baguetterie d'Angelo, Brückstraße 28. Unbeatable filled baguettes, always freshly prepared and consistently delicious. It has been an integral part of Brückstrasse since 1984, and with good reason. (updated Aug 2022) 8 Food King, Brückstraße 42-43. Tasty french tacos, burgers and baguettes (updated May 2022) 9 Lord, Gerberstraße 1. Super delicious, vegetarian and vegan dishes. The menus are really good and the atmosphere fits. Nice people working there. Offers tasty soy-burgers, wraps with soy-"meat" and filled potatoes. The sign at the entrance says "vegetarian cuisine" but the menu contains some dishes with seafood (example: "Krabben" means crabs or prawns). (updated May 2022) 10 Pan & Pizza, Brückstraße 40. Nice place for American style pan pizza (updated May 2022) 11 Pasta Buonissima, Olpe 31. Simple restaurant, incredibly tasty Italian cuisine. Small menu, big in taste. Great service. Everything freshly prepared. Very

Drink & nightlife

Cafes

A quick cappuccino or home-made cake in a pleasant atmosphere are things that you find around the old medieval "Wallring"

1 Kieztörtchen, Essenerstraße.12, ☏ +49 23133037302, postmaster@kieztörtchen.de. It's one of the favorite cafes of the Dortmund locals, which says a lot! €10-20. (updated Mar 2024) 2 OmaRosa, Chemnitzerstraße. 9, ☏ +49 23122388788, [email protected]. The philosophy of this cafe is that everything that is homemade doesn't only taste better but it's also healthier. €20-30. (updated Mar 2024) 3 Herr Liebig Kaffeehaus, Liebigstraße.24, ☏ +49 2312223308. Bagels. If there has to be one word to describe Cafe Asemann, its just a bagel. €10-20. (updated Mar 2024) 4 Neues Schwarz, Saarlandstraße.33, ☏ +49 23128678960. The cafe roast and grinds the coffee beans on its own; when you step foot in the cafe, you will be intoxicated by the smell. up to €10. (updated Mar 2024)

Alcoholic drinks Dortmund had more than 550 years of brewing tradition, some of the oldest breweries in Westphalia are founded around the Old Market in Dortmund. Dortmund is known for its pale lager beer called Dortmunder Export or Dortmunder, it became popular with industrial workers and was responsible for Dortmunder Union becoming Germany's largest brewery and Dortmund having the highest concentration of breweries in Germany. Popular and traditional beer brands are Dortmunder Actien Brauerei, Bergmann Bier, Kronen, Union, Brinkhoff's, Dortmunder Hansa, Hövels, Ritter, Thier and Stifts. Beer as a typical "proletarian" beverage has been connected with the industrial might of Dortmund's past and while the railway enabled sales to faraway lands (the name "Export" is ample testament to this) ultimately consolidation and the decline of heavy industry hit the breweries and today many brands have been abandoned or bought up by large conglomerates. "Stösschen" is a beer in a small glass "Stösschen" 0.2 litres and can be drunk in about two draughts. The idea of a Stößchen came about in the 19th century when people would have to wait at the level crossing to cross the Nordstadt Railway Line that divided the city centre from the Nordstadt district. A local innkeeper saw the potential of serving quick drinks to people waiting, and a Dortmund tradition began. The Dortmunder Tropfen Schnaps is a type of liqueur that is flavored with herbs or spices and traditionally drunk neat as a digestif.

Bars

The Kreuzviertel in the south of the Downtown with historically architecture, lively pubs and cafes offers a great variety of leisure and free-time activities is a better alternative

Sleep

Budget 1 a&o Hostel Dortmund Hauptbahnhof, Königswall 2. Near the main train station. About €17-22 per night in a shared room. (updated Jul 2022) 2 Esplanada, Burgwall 3, ☏ +49 231 58530. Clean rooms. Excellent breakfast from €85 per room/night. (updated Sep 2017) 3 Ibis Dortmund, Märkische Straße 73, 44141. This Ibis is south of the centre, around 15 minutes walk away. It is 1 km from the Westfalenhallen and the football stadium. 4 Mercure Hotel Dortmund City, Kampstraße 35-37, 44137, ☏ +49 231-58970. This 3-star hotel is in the centre of the city, less than 5 minutes from the main station and a few minutes from the main shopping street.

Mid-Range 5 Dorint Grand Hotel (formerly Pullman and Mercure Grand Hotel Dortmund An Den Westfalenhallen), Lindemannstraße 88, 44137, ☏ +49 231-91130. This 4-star hotel is south of the centre (about 20 minutes walk, or around €8 in a taxi) but very handy (less than 5 minutes walk) for the Westfalenhallen exhibition centre and the football stadium. Directly to the trendy Kreuzviertel! 6 NH Dortmund, Königswall, 1, ☏ +49 231 90550. 4-star hotel located in the heart of the city. The hotel offers 190 bedrooms and suites, a sauna, fitness area and the ideal location. Rooms from €63. 7 Stadthotel Drees. 4-star city hotel, friendly staff, supernice owners, reasonable prices, near to Westfalenhallen, Westfalenstadion and City

Splurge 8 Dortmund City Hotel, Silberstraße 37-43, ☏ +49 2 31 477966. Check-out: 11:00. Very pleasant hotel and staff. Extremely nice rooms, and central. 9 Novum Hotel Unique, Hoher Wall 38, 44137, ☏ +49 231 560500, [email protected]. Modern, redbrick hotel with a magnificent entrance hall. from €95 per room/night. (updated Sep 2017) 10 Parkhotel Wittekindshof, Westfalendamm 270, ☏ +49 231 51930, [email protected]. This brick hotel is perfect for drivers. from €200 per room/night. 11 Radisson Blu Hotel, An der Buschmühle 1, 44139 (across the street from Westfalenpark), ☏ +49 231 10860. Contemporary hotel. Great location if you are visiting the Westfalstadion - in fact the away team were spending time at the hotel! from €145 per room/night. 12 Steigenberger, Berswordtstraße 2, 44139, ☏ +49 231 90210. Close to Signal Iduna Park and Kreuzviertel. from €95 per room/night.

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