Chișinău

Understand

Chișinău (Russian: Кишинёв (Kishinyov), Ukrainian: Кишинів (Kyshyniv)) is very wealthy compared to the rest of the country, as Moldova is not a very rich country, and the countryside is especially poor. As is common in developing countries, you are likely to see great disparities in wealth. It's also very much a post-Soviet city, with both the good and bad qualities associated with that. You'll see many modern and great buildings of steel, concrete and glass. The majority of the middle- and working-class population lives in blocks of flats. These look standard, maybe not too nice but are not as dangerous as similar areas may be considered to be in Western Europe. Do not expect Western standards everywhere, but the situation is improving every year. There are 4- and 5-star hotels, good restaurants and cafes, coffee houses and bars. The city's territory with the nearest suburbs covers the area of 635 km2 (245 sq mi).

Visit Chișinău tourism information.

Getting there

By plane 1 Chișinău International Airport (RMO IATA). Served by many airlines like AirBaltic, Austrian, Tarom, Turkish Airlines, with flights around the Europe and Asia, notably to Athens, Bucharest, Frankfurt, Istanbul, Madrid, Milan-Bergamo, Munich, Riga, Rome, Vienna, Vilnius, Varna, Paris, London, Bologna. (updated Sep 2023) You may also want to consider flying to Iași to get a certain flight date, a direct flight or a better price from the region you start from. From Iasi, you can take an intercity bus or train to Chișinău.

Chișinău airport: transportation The fixed fares range from 100 lei upward depending on where in the city you are going. While better than in the past, the taxi system is still not perfect and it is likely they will try to come up with a reason to charge you extra. It is required by law for taxi drivers to always use the taxi meter, but sometimes they tend to "forget". Always ask the driver to enable the taxi meter before entering the taxi, and pay based on the figure shown on the meter. A cheaper alternative is the trolleybus 30. It leaves just out of the arrivals door and is marked by a sign with the times. Once the trolleybus is running, pay 6 lei (Sep 2023) either by cash to the person with an apron, or by wireless card reader if available. It takes you to Botanical Gardens, Ismail Street and Bulevardul Ștefan cel Mare și Sfînt (main street). If for some reason the trolleybus is not running or you would like to multiply your options, go towards the expressway next to the terminal station, cross it, and wait at the bus station (46°56′19″N 28°55′59″E) for either trolleybus 30 or bus 33, the latter of which goes to Central Railway Station and Ismail Street.

By train See Calea Ferata Moldova (CFM) (Moldovan Railways). There is only one train station in Chișinău: the Central Railway Station. Internationally, the trains depart to Europe through Romania, as well as to Ukraine. Within Moldova trains run westwards to Strășeni, Călărași, and Ungheni, and eastwards to Anenii Noi and Bendery. From Western Europe, the train is much cheaper than a flight. The downside is that they are slow, particularly when crossing the borders into the former Soviet Union, where they need to stop to have their wheels changed due to different rail gauges. There are two routes to Romania: to Iași and to Bucharest. Connection with Iași is two trains per day in each direction, taking approx. 4 hours (only seating class). From Bucharest, daily overnight trains leave Gara de Nord station at 19:20 and arrive at 08:10. The 'couchette', shared sleeper co

Getting around

By bus For those on a budget, just do as the locals do: use a trolley-bus (about 30 lines through the city), bus or maxi-taxis. A ride costs 6 lei regardless of the mode of transportation. In trolleybuses and buses, the fare is collected by a conductor who walks through the bus back and forth. Maxi-taxis are increasingly rare and unreliable. When entering one, pay the driver right away. There are few set stops for maxi-taxis. It is usually fine to just tell the driver when you want to get off, although there are new rules and drivers may not do this so much anymore but will stop on street corners, etc. More information can be found at Easyway.

By taxi There are several big taxi services operating throughout the city and its suburbs, most notably Letz and Yandex Go. Call 14222 or 14444 to get a taxi. Those who do not speak Romanian or Russian should ask a local person at a hotel or a restaurant to call a taxi, because few taxi drivers speak English. The majority of taxi drivers accept payment by credit card; ask beforehand while ordering. If you pay by cash it is better to bring small notes because usually the taxi drivers will not be able to change anything larger than 50-lei notes. Prices start from about 50 lei. It is required by law for taxi drivers to always use the taxi meter, but sometimes they tend to "forget". Always ask the driver to enable the taxi meter before entering the taxi, and pay based on the figure shown on the meter.

See

1 Cathedral Park (Parcul Catedralei) (in the very centre). The centre is adorned with the Nativity Cathedral, the main church for the city. To the southwest is the Triumphal Arch constructed in 1841, which is the centerpiece of the Great National Assembly Square. Across Ștefan cel Mare Boulevard is the Government House. The city's biggest flower market is on the north side of the park along Bănulescu Bodoni Street. At the intersection of Ștefan cel Mare and Bănulescu Bodoni, there is a statue of Ștefan cel Mare. (updated Sep 2023) 2 Ștefan cel Mare Monument (Monumentul lui Ștefan cel Mare). The monument to Stephen III of Moldavia who, in the 15th century, achieved European fame by resisting the Turkish attacks. The monument is the gateway to the beautiful park of the same name. (updated Sep 2023) 3 Rose Valley. A 9-hectare park featuring three major lakes with pedal boats and several restaurants. It is possible to walk there to the center, and thus allows you to visit the Cathedral Theodor Tiron on the way. Otherwise, from the city center, reach the more popular southern entrances by trolleybuses 1, 4, or 8, and the less popular Northern side by bus 46. (updated Sep 2023) 4 Râşcani Park (from city center: bus 5; trolleybuses 12, 24), ☏ +373 222 01 707. A 32-hectare wooded park offering pleasant, almost secluded walks. (updated Dec 2020) 5 Chișinău Botanical Garden (Grădina Botanică din Chișinău) (near the city gates; from the city center, take trolleybus 22 (very frequent), 30, or 4 (the latter does a substantial detour)). The largest park in Chișinău. 10 lei (including students), 5 lei for children and retired people. (updated Jul 2018) 6 Village Museum (Muzeul Satului). Next to Botanica, if you head west after you exit the gates, you can find a path which will take you towards a couple of wooden churches built in Northern Moldova and re-assembled in Chișinău. There is a new wooden gate with traditional carvings leading up to the churches. (updated Dec 2020) 7 Valea Morilor Park (Parcul Valea Morilor). Very large park with a lake which offers acres of largely untouched landscape scenery in the heart of the city. There is a popular 2.5-km running and cycling marked circuit of the lake. (updated Sep 2019) 8 Parcul Dendrariu, Strada Ion Creangă 1, ☏ +373 22719029. A large park in Buiucani. Costs about 10 lei to enter. Nice gardens, lake, forests and sports field. (updated Dec 2020) 9 Alunelul Park (Parcul Alunelul), ☏ +373 605 66 145. It has a water fountain and a memorial to the pogroms in Chișinău in the first part of the 20th century. (updated Dec 2020)

Do

1 Opera and Ballet Theatre (Teatrul de operă și balet). Catch a show of one of the top ballet companies in Eastern Europe. The company has toured all over the world, from Tokyo to Johannesburg. Show times and information can be found on the website. 2 Mihai Eminescu Theatre, Stefan cel Mare si Sfant Blvd 79. This beautiful old theatre has floor seating and two balconies. They have multiple productions running at the same time, so if you are staying for a week, you may have four different plays to choose from, and films in the 'studio'. Comedies tend to communicate better if you don't know the language. 3 The National Philharmonic, Str. Mihai Eminescu (just north of Stefan cel Mare si Sfant). Temporarily closed because of a fire. (updated Sep 2023) 4 Cineplex. Check for 'In Original English Language'. Most movies are either dubbed in Russian or original with Romanian subtitles. There is normally no Romanian dubbing, just subtitles. (updated Sep 2023) Football: The men's national soccer team play internationals at Zimbru Stadium (capacity 10,000) 2 km south of city centre. FC Zimbru Chișinău the resident club play in Moldovan Liga, the top tier.

Buy

There are many shops, malls and markets in Chișinău. The majority of restaurants and almost all the hotels in the city accept credit cards. There are hundreds of ATMs throughout the city. If you do not have an account with the bank or its parent company (e.g. Santander), expect a fee of approximately 2%. If you are just visiting Chișinău, consider buying a special brandy selection of about 30 small bottles, with different sorts of brandy. It can make a nice gift. Moldovan wines are deservedly famous across the former Soviet Union, yet are little known in Europe. Take the opportunity to sample them. Cigarettes are also much cheaper in Moldova than in the EU, so you might do well to stock up before leaving the country, although the number of cigarettes you can bring across an EU border is restricted. There are special rules for the land borders to Romania. The maximum number is lower.

Chișinău Souvenir Bazaar (in the Nativity Cathedral Park, behind the cathedral, along Columna Street). – The city's main artisan market. One can find handmade crafts, paintings and relics from the Soviet days. English is limited, but many products have a marked price. Negotiating prices is acceptable. (updated Sep 2023) 1 UNIC (Magazinul Universal Central), Stefan cel Mare si Sfant Boulevard 8 (on the corner of Ștefan cel Mare and Ismail), ☏ +373 222 73 036. An all-purpose shopping center built by Soviet standards, but renovated. (more recent malls are MallDova or Sun City). The selection of souvenirs is smaller and many will not be handmade. (updated Dec 2020) Ștefan cel Mare boulevard. – This is Chișinău's main street. Not only is it great for sightseeing, it is also lined with numerous shops and restaurants. (updated Sep 2023) 2 Central Market (Piața Centrală), Mitropolit Varlaam St 63, ☏ +373 222 77 848. Outdoor market. Alight at Armenească Street while on the main boulevard, and walk in the direction where everybody goes. (updated Dec 2020) MallDova. – The largest western-style mall in Chișinău. Most stores and products are generic and can be found at many malls in other countries. (updated Sep 2023)

Eat

Chișinău is a good place for food lovers. There are plenty of good places to eat all over the city. The cheap, tasty food that is very popular with the locals is served in most places. For better service and a more diverse food selection, there are a lot of small restaurants and cafes. Some restaurants have prices comparable to Western Europe, although if you eat only in those you may find yourself being ripped off. For a quick lunch, try fast food stores and pizzerias, which can be found on nearly every corner. Beef is often listed under the veal part of the menu. For groceries, there are small shops all over. Some are in front of the apartment blocks just a few steps away from their entrances. For harder-to-find items, go to a supermarket. You will frequently also see markets or even one or two people selling fruit and vegetables, and sometimes other products such as honey or "brînza" (type of cheese). The majority of these are fresh and perfectly safe to eat and frequently better than what is found in a supermarket. For fresh fruits and vegetables, open-air markets are the best option. 'Piața Centrală' (Central Market) is in the city centre and runs more than two city blocks. Other districts, such as Ciocana, also have large markets. Most of the items for sale are locally produced, but there are a lot of sellers who sell imports; mostly oranges, bananas and other tropical fruits and vegetables. It is best to buy fungible products (meat, dairy, etc.) from supermarkets or shops because they are much safer for nearly the same price. The vendors at the open market will let you taste the cheese prior to your purchase so you can decide if it is something that you want to eat. When you first walk into the 'cheese halls', it may look like all of the vendors standing next to each other are selling the same product. For hard cheese which tends to be re-sold from larger distributors, it may be the same. However, for locally-made cheese, there are variations that arise from even slight differences in technique, variations in the level of salt for curing, and differences in feed. 'Oaie' means sheep, so this will have a slightly different flavour than cow 'vaca' or goat 'capra' cheeses. 'Caș' is a softer cheese, that is not aged like some of the other 'brînza' which tends to be harder and saltier and is recommended for Mamaliga (corn polenta). If you are uncertain about how to communicate the quantity you want, you can start by giving the vendor 20 lei or 40 lei depending on if you want a smaller or larger piece. Or, when they suggest a certain piece that might loo

Drink & nightlife

Drinks such as vodka are served on their own. So don't be surprised if your Vodka Sprite is served as two separate drinks. Also, club soda seems difficult to procure, at least in English.

Wines. Moldavan wines, cognac, liquor and juice are all on par with the best of Eastern Europe. For one thing, manufacturers tend to use only organic products. Secondly, these products are made in the traditional way. Restaurants tend to sell only local wines, but only those of the highest standards. One of the very best wines of Moldova is from the wine plantation of Purcari. Beer. Moldovan beer is one of the best in Europe. A very famous is named "Bere Chișinău". It was awarded with the Nr.1 Gold Medal at the Nuremberg beer competition in 2007, beating German, Czech and others. It can be found in all the bars on every street in Chișinău, so finding a place for a drink is not a problem. However, good bars and restaurants with a pleasant atmosphere can be difficult to find. So watch where you stop. (updated Jan 2024) Beer House. Bar and restaurant on bd C. Negruzzi, has a wide range of beers (some brewed on the premises) and a good menu. Prices for a full meal with drinks range from 150-500 lei. 1 Keller Holz Gastropub, Stefan cel Mare si Sfant Boulevard 71, ☏ +373 689 99 910. An Austrian-Moldovan brewing company's restaurant with its craft beer and snacks. (updated Sep 2021)

Clubs There are more than 40 nightclubs in Chișinău, making its nightlife vibrant and dynamic.

Sleep

Budget In the main train station, there is a decent hostel. Just enter the train station and ask the guards there. The price is 220 lei per night. Hotel Turist is close to the centre and charges 440 lei a night for a double room with shower and WC (price as of August 2008). 1 Hotel Chișinău, 7 Negruzzi blvd. (at the southern end of the main street), ☏ +373 22 578 506, [email protected]. Hotel Chișinău claims to be the oldest central hotel in the city. An "aging beauty" with friendly staff and clean rooms. Rooms from about €28. (updated Jan 2024) Retro Moldova Hostel, Strada George Cosbuc 3, Apartment 24. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. €12/night for dorm bed. Silent and central location with very friendly and helpful staff. Laundry service. Wi-Fi and lockers are available. The hostel is in a large flat in a lovely communist-style apartment block. Interior is a lot nicer than the exterior. Some of its interior such as wall posters dates back to Soviet times. The entrance is in the backyard and not towards the street. A small sign is sprayed on the concrete at the entrance and that is the only hint you get that there is a hostel inside apartment 24 of that gate. 2 Tapok Hostel, 27a Armeneasca Street, Chisinau (15-minute walk from the central bus station, or take marshrutka 192. If the central bus station bustle can be confusing on arrival, it is in a horseshoe shape, both ends lead to Tighina Street, turn right towards the hostel), ☏ +373 68408626, [email protected]. Friendly and helpful English-speaking hostel, with Wi-Fi, fans, lockers, kitchen and washing machine as well as the usual facilities. From €8 for basic dorm to €11.50 p.p. for twin private. (updated Jun 2015)

Mid-range 3 Hotel Bella Donna, Strada București 9, ☏ +373 22 54 82 07. It's a new hotel with comfortable rooms and nice staff in the centre of the Chișinău. The prices are low, beginning from €50 for a room, including breakfast, Wi-Fi, and TV. €60. (updated Dec 2020) 4 Hotel Cosmos. Clean rooms and friendly staff, some of whom speak English. Now the hotel Cosmos has a slightly derelict appearance, and receives relatively few guests. However, the rooms are clean and the staff are friendly and helpful. Around the immediate area are some nice shops and restaurants. Rates from €29/night. 5 Hotel Edem. A rather new hotel with comfortable rooms and a swimming pool. Rates start at €60/night. 6 Hotel Luna. A nice hotel with comfortable rooms and good services. From €75 twin. (updated Apr 2017) Hotel Stella De Lux. A tiny hotel that costs €50/night and offers small and rather

Go next

Nearby Cricova – A Chișinău suburb close to the city. Famous for its fabulous winery with an underground cellar over 100 km (62 mi) long. A tour, including tasting the dishes in its restaurant, plus wine souvenir will cost you 500 lei. Tours must be booked before arriving. Tours booked on the same day as the tour do not include tasting of wine or food. Ghidighici – A lake and Chișinău suburb close to the city in its northern part. It is 9 km (5.6 mi). in length and at about 1 km (0.62 mi). in width. Ghidighici is also, called as "Chișinău sea". There are many resorts and recreation facilities along its shores. One of the most preferable places for recreation for city locals. Orheiul Vechi – One of the most visited sites outside of Chisinau and a one-hour bus ride from the capital. It features a nature reserve, monasteries, museums, and archaeological sites. Mileștii Mici – With over 200 km of underground roadways, Mileștii Mici is registered in the Guinness World Records as the biggest wine collection in the world. It may be easier to book a tour through a travel agency as one must provide a car for the tour. Website, phone: +373 22 382 333.

Further away Transnistria – This unrecognized, de facto republic claims eastern Moldova; visiting it comes closest to what life in a communist state in the Cold War must have been like. Bucharest – The capital of nearby Romania, in which megalomanic monuments, including "House of the People", built during Ceaușescu's reign, overlook medieval neighbourhoods. Many companies operate 'rutieras' during the day and larger coaches during the night heading to Bucharest. Iaşi – The second largest Romanian city, it was the capital of the Moldavian principality until 1861 and then briefly the capital of Romania. Today it remains one of the major economic and cultural centres in the country. The contrasts between Chișinău and Iasi are quite significant and that makes this trip an interesting option if you are heading into Romania from Chișinău. Coach services are operated from Gara de Sud. Odesa – Relaxing Ukrainian city on the shore of the Black Sea.