Bywater

Understand

The Bywater is a neighborhood a bit east (down river) from the French Quarter with a healthy mix of blue collar folks who grew up here, and more recent bohemian arrivals. Artists and musicians relocated here when the French Quarter became too pricy. It is primarily residential but undeniably hip; there are lively pubs, restaurants and randomly placed edgy found-object art scattered throughout the neighborhood. Travelers and residents from other parts of the city are steadily discovering this neighborhood's old-time, laid-back charm.

Getting there

By foot or bicycle It is a very pleasant stroll down Royal, Dauphine, or Chartres Streets through the historic Faubourg Marigny; approximately 10 blocks from Esplanade Avenue (the downriver limit of the French Quarter) to the Bywater.

By car

From the French Quarter/CBD, the easiest route is down Rampart Street, which merges (via a small connector called McShane Place) to become St. Claude Avenue just before Elysian Fields. St. Claude forms the main thoroughfare passing through the Bywater and Lower Ninth Ward. Parking is a cinch.

By taxi Taxis are pretty much a disaster in the Bywater. The cab drivers are under the very much mistaken impression that it is a dangerous neighborhood and won't pick up when hailed (and sometimes even when called). In any rate, calling is really the only option unless you are taking one right in front of Vaughan's Lounge on a Thursday night. Better yet, make friends with a driver, and get his personal number.

By bus The Bywater is served primarily by two bus lines operated by the New Orleans RTA. That bus #5 would be a dream route for visitors, but unfortunately it never runs. You could wait for days. The St Claude route is every half hour, at least, and a much more reliable way to get to the Marigny (if you don't feel like walking), the French Quarter, and the CBD. Fares are $1.25 each way.

5, Marigny-Bywater: you can theoretically catch this bus on Canal Street at the corner of N. Peters (right in front of the Canal Place tower, across the street from the casino); it goes through the French Quarter on N. Peters/Decatur Streets before taking Elysian Fields back four blocks to Dauphine, and from there follows Dauphine Street through the Marigny and Bywater neighborhoods all the way down to Poland Avenue next to the Industrial Canal. Coming back up the route is the same except the bus follows Royal Street instead of Dauphine. 88, St Claude-Delery: you can catch this bus on any corner of St Claude; it runs along St Claude and R

See

St Claude Arts District/SCAD, Multiple venues. New Orleans newest and hottest arts district that's not your usual tourist-centric arts destination. A true "only in New Orleans" experience. Check website for current exhibits, times, and addresses. The Great War Memorial, Burgundy St. (between Alvar and Pauline). The first of it kind erected at the end of WWI, this monument pays tribute the fallen residents of the 9th Ward.

Do

Markey Park. A center of neighborhood activities long hosting many special and recurring events. Vaughan's Lounge, 4226 Dauphine St (Corner of Lessesps, a block up from Poland Avenue), ☏ +1 504 947-5562. noon-close daily. Bywater's most famous music venue. Thursday nights when righteous-trumpter/bandleader Kermit Ruffins is in town, he and his BBQ swingers play here; Thursday with Kermit as Vaughan's is a New Orleans favorite. 8:30 PM they say; don't expect shows to start at their clock time in New Orleans, but now that Kermit is a family man, things here tend to start a bit more punctually than they did years ago. Expect crowds and good times. Boiled crawfish or shrimp every Friday. Free Food during Saints games. Following glowing attention in David Simon's series Treme, this place has indeed been discovered by the tourists, but the locals and old-timers don't really care and still show up each Thursdays for some dancing and general fun. Thursdays see free steaming pots of red beans and rice all night long. Sankofa Marketplace, 3819 St Claude Ave (at Pauline St in the ARISE Academy Complex). Sa 10AM-2PM. Weekly market with farm fresh produce, prepared food, crafts. The second Saturday of each month also has live music and other special events; sometimes music other Saturdays as well. The Spellcaster Lodge, 3052 St Claude Ave. Home of the Amazing Mr. Quintron, Miss Pussycat, and the Drum Buddy workshops. Only open a handful of nights in the year, but this is home to some wild bohemian parties and performances, and, as a visitor, you'll really blow the locals' minds for simply knowing of the place. Stop in if you get a chance. cover: $5-15. Alombrados Oasis, 3154 St Claude Ave, ☏ +1 504 345-9418. This temple of the Ordo Templi Orientis hosts performances of The Gnostic Mass, conducts initiatory ceremonies, seasonal mystery plays, frequent classes on Thelema, Magick, Yoga, Gnosticism, QBL, Hermetic and Rosicrucian Science, and intensive training programs of Sci

Buy

1 Dr Bob's Art Gallery, 3027 Chartres St, ☏ +1 504 945-2225. Officially open by appointment only, but if you're passing by and see the gates open with the. A small gallery run by local self-taught folk artist, (you'll see examples of his work at local bars, cafes, and restaurants all over town) with eccentric artwork for sale that will immediately conjure New Orleans and the nearby Cajun Country.

Eat

The exotic cocktail of hipsters, long-time locals, and eccentric service industry employees that is present day Bywater has proved a breeding ground for interesting and tasty dining options. In addition to those below, try asking around about the couple of pizza speakeasies lurking in the shadows (that's right, pizza speakeasies). They're not advertised anywhere, and Wikivoyage isn't going to help spoil the fun, so you'll have to talk to locals to find them (if, that is, they indeed exist).

1 Country Club, 634 Louisa St (between Royal & Chartres), ☏ +1 504 945-0742. Restaurant: Su-Th 11AM-9PM, F Sa 11AM-10PM, Su 11AM-3PM. Upscale and stylish American cuisine at great prices, with dining in a beautiful old dining room or on the veranda overlooking the pool. It's a great brunch place. Gay and straight friendly private club and pool in rear, where you can sip cocktails in the jacuzzi into the night (note that it becomes clothing optional). $10-25. 2 Elizabeth's, 601 Gallier St (at the corner of Chartres), ☏ +1 504 944-9272. Tu-F 11AM-2:30PM, 6-10PM; Sa 8AM-2:30PM, 6-10PM; Su 8AM-2:30PM. This is a real local favorite, particularly for breakfast/brunch. Creole and southern food dominates the menu, which combines with friendly service and a cute setting to make for a nice meal any time of day, though. If you have a sweet tooth, don't skip the praline bacon! $12-28. 3 Frady's, 3231 Dauphine St (corner of Piety), ☏ +1 504 949-9688. M-F 7:30AM-5PM, Sa 9AM-3PM. This is the sort of place you would only know about if you get a local recommendation—it won't be in your guidebook. For the most part, this is simply a corn