Brighton and Hove

Understand

Brighton was a sleepy little fishing village, then known as Brighthelmstone, until Dr Richard Russell of Lewes began to prescribe the use of seawater for his patients. He advocated the drinking of seawater and sea-bathing in 1750. In 1753 he erected a large house near the beach for himself and for his patients. A further factor in Brighton's growth came in the early 19th century when the Prince of Wales built the Royal Pavilion, an extravagant Regency building designed by John Nash. But it was only with the development of the railways, around 1840, that Brighton truly started to boom.

The city is close to London, and is increasingly popular with media and music types who don't want to live in the capital. It is sometimes called "London-by-the-Sea" for this reason. Brighton is typically referred to as the gay capital of Britain. There is a significant gay district in Kemp Town which adds to the Bohemian atmosphere of the city. Whilst a day trip to Brighton, or even a long weekend, will offer activities and culture for the visitor all year round, it is in the springtime that the city really starts coming to life, and May sees the return of two of the most popular festivals, Brighton Festival and Festival Fringe (see the events section). In the summer Brighton truly flourishes, with residents and visitors enjoying lazy days and beautiful sunsets on what is perhaps the city's greatest asset, the more than 5 mi (8.0 km) stretch of shingle beach, facing south onto the English Channel. For those with working visas, Brighton is a good spot for seasonal and temporary work, due in part to its status as a student town and in part to it being on the sea.

Local information Brighton and Hove City Council website

Getting there

By train

Wikivoyage has a guide to Rail travel in Great Britain Trains to Brighton run from London Victoria and London Bridge stations in London, taking about an hour (faster for the Brighton Express services from Victoria, although expect to add another 20 minutes if travelling during peak commuting times). Trains also run along the coast from Hastings and Lewes in the east, and Portsmouth, Southampton and Chichester in the west. Brighton is on a direct line to Gatwick Airport and Luton Airport (Gatwick is much closer, being to the south of London). Brighton has 2 stations:

1 Brighton railway station (Brighton Terminus), Queens Rd, BN1 3XP. 2 London Road (Brighton) railway station, Shaftesbury Pl, BN1 4QS. All trains stopping in Brighton stop at Brighton Terminus, on Junction Road. Local trains to Newhaven via Lewes also stop at London Road station, on Shaftesbury Place, just off Ditchling Rise. This station is only really useful for the northeastern part of Brighton, and isn't too far from the main Brighton station. When travelling to Brighton, it would be easier to just plan to go to the main Brighton station, as it is also closer to the town centre. Trains to Brighton are operated by Southern and Thameslink. Southern operates trains to Eastbourne, Hastings, Ashford, Newhaven, Portsmouth, Southampton and London Victoria; while Thameslink operates trains to Bedford, Cambridge, London St Pancras, Luton and London Blackfriars. Trains are crowded on Saturdays when Brighton & Hove Albion Football Club are playing at home: the surge is towards Brighton around lunchtime, and towards London late afternoon.

By car Brighton is a congested city, and not easy to drive or park in at peak times. The principal route from London and Gatwick Airport to the north is the A23, which turns into the M23 just after Crawley. The A27 runs along the south coast from Portsmouth in the west to Pevensey (near Eastbourne) in the east, and is a dual-carriageway for much of its length west of Brighton but is primarily a congested normal carriageway to the east of Brighton, the A27 turns into the M27 after Portsmouth and continues on into the New Forest National Park. There are several car parks in central Brighton - expect to pay about £1.50 per hour, even on Sundays, although they can get quite full at times, so don't count on finding somewhere to park. The Ethos Parking website shows where available parking spaces are in some car parks with entry barriers around the city on a map. However, it doesn't show all car parks. For a day at the beach, parking is available, tho

Getting around

Brightonians often give directions relative to a prominent landmark, the Clock Tower, which stands due south of the rail station where Queen's Road meets Dyke Road (oh yes it does), West Street, North Street and Western Road. The oldest part of the city is the Lanes, which is bounded by North Street, West Street and East Street, through which runs Middle Street, and Ship Street. Beware the spelling of the similar-named North Laine (meaning "north fields") which is a boutique and alternative shopping nirvana, to the north side of North Street. Western Road, a major shopping street runs east–west from the Clock Tower, whilst Eastern Road runs up a hill towards the main hospital from the area known as the Old Steine (rhymes with clean) which has Brighton Pier at the seafront here. Running north from the working Pier, you find the memorable Royal Pavilion, a run down church St Peter's, and The Level, which is being developed. Going north east from here is Lewes Road (pronounced "Lewis") which takes you out to the city boundary and both of the Universities. Hove is found to the west of Brighton. To the east of the city, there is Brighton Marina.

By bike Although the area is hilly, cycling is a growing form of transport in Brighton. The city council's website has more details on cycling, including a map of routes. A cost effective way of getting around town 'pay by the minute' ebike rental service, Beryl BTN Bikes, which has stations available across the city. It is often the fastest way to move around, although the 'resilient' bikes can be challenging on larger hills.

By bus

Brighton and Hove Council have published a journey planner for local traffic. There is an extensive bus network in Brighton and Hove. In the city centre, services are very frequent and many stops have 'real-time' bus information. The majority of buses are run by one company, Brighton & Hove Buses. The best option for a visitor is to get a £4.40 CitySAVER all-day ticket to avoid the £2.20 single fares. Children travel at half price, and pensioners free after 9AM (with a suitable RFID card). If travelling by train, you can add a "plus bus" CitySaver option on your ticket for £2, or get a CitySaver for £3 at Brighton Station bus stops. There are three routes on weekdays (route 52 on Saturdays too) between the City Centre and the universities with a bright yellow bus company called the Big Lemon, costing just £1.50 for a single and £2 for an all day pass. On a few days a year, buses are disrupted by parades etc., the same days as in the "by car" section above. Many of Brighton &

See

The Brighton Attractions Combi-Saver Ticket saves you up to 30% on tickets to the Royal Pavilion, i360 tower, and Sea Life Brighton. Purchase at i360 (or online 3 days in advance): adult £27.70 (£26.10), child (5-15 years) £14.75 (£13.95), child (4 years – under 4s go free): £8.00 (£7.20) (Nov 2017).

1 Brighton Pier (Palace Pier), Madeira Drive, BN2 1TW, ☏ +44 1273 609361, [email protected]. Daily from 10AM, from 11AM in winter. Closing times vary throughout the year, but are typically a couple of hours after sunset. Massively tacky and sickly sweet it may be, no visit to Brighton is complete without a walk along its 525-metre-long pier. Admire the views — both out to sea and back to the waterfront — have a whirl on the rides, or take on the nostalgic arcade attractions. There are plenty of food stands serving typical seaside treats, plus a sit-down restaurant, a cocktail bar, and a pizzeria. In the summer, there's a large screen showing live sports and films. Winter visitors may see a famous murmuration of starlings: mesmerising clouds of birds flying together before roosting under the pier for the night. Entry free. Pay per ride or get an all-day wristband: over 1.2 m £17.50, under 1.2 m £9 (online prices - if you buy on the day, you'll pay more). (updated Feb 2020) 2 Brighton Beach. In the summer, the pebble beach is covered in tourists and Brightonians. Poi twirlers strike a beautiful image against the sunsets, and flaming lanterns are launched into the air on summer evenings. To the east of Brighton there is a designated nudist beach. The pebble beach gives way to a flat sandy seabed just below mid tide line so time your swimming to the low tide and avoid the painful feet. Just beyond the Marina is an area for surfers. Fishermen cast their rods from the Marina or by the giant doughnut. For £16, you can fly the short zipline over the beach (2017). There is also the wreck of West Pier which was derelict for some time before burning down. The whole area is great for taking photographs. (updated Nov 2023) The Lanes -an area of small shops, the tumbled street plan reflecting the layout of the original fishing village of Brighton which was here. Almost every shop in the Lanes is a jewellery shop, although there are also cafés, bars, record shops, a shop that sells vintage weapons, and a host of Italian restaurants. North Laine (sometimes incorrectly called the North Lanes). A wild nest of alternativism, the North Laine area is walked by dreadlocked hippies, bright colours, punks, goths and oddballs. The shops sell everything from bongs to magic pot

Do

Brighton Theatres. Brighton is a great place to see a theatre show or a gig. There are many many theatres and venues in and around Brighton. 1 Sealanes on Madeira Drive is an open-air lido with heated 50 m pool, opening in spring 2023. Football: 2 Brighton & Hove Albion, Falmer BN1 9BL (off A27 5 mi (8.0 km) northeast of the city by Falmer railway station), ☏ +44 1273 668855. "The Seagulls" play football in the Premier League, England's top tier, with their home ground at Falmer or Amex Stadium, capacity 30,750. Their women's team play in the Women's Super League, with home games at Broadfield Stadium in Crawley, shared with Crawley Town. In 2025 Falmer Stadium hosted games in the Women's Rugby Union World Cup. (updated Sep 2025) Cricket: 3 Sussex CCC, Eaton Rd, Hove BN3 3AN (1 mile west of central Brighton), ☏ +44 1273 827100. Sussex CCC were promoted in 2024 and now play in Division Two of the County Championship. Its limited-overs team is the Sussex Sharks. (updated Sep 2024) Shop until you drop. Calling into many of the quirky shops in the Laines looking for that elusive deleted LP, leather bound book, one-off party dress, or organic beer, can be a highlight and a chance to uncover hidden gems. 4 Duke of York's Cinema, Preston Rd, BN1 4NA (15 minutes' walk up the London Road from the Steine), ☏ +44 719 025747. The Duke of York's Cinema is Brighton's art house cinema, and the oldest continually operating cinema in Europe. Opened in 1910, it still has a single screen, which shows a mix of art house and more mainstream films, with a Kid's Club on Saturday mornings. The building is recognisable by the giant fibreglass legs on the roof. The bar on the first floor is a good place for a drink before the film, with a balcony that has good views of the street below. The (screening-room) balcony at first floor level has two-seat sofas, the ground floor regular cinema seats. 7 Volks Railway (along the seafront). Apr-Sep: every 15 min from 10:15AM (on M & F from 11:15AM) to 5PM on Sa Su to 6PM). The oldest surviving electric railway in the world, opening in 1883. The stations are all accessible by wheelchair. Wheelchairs must be folded to fit on the trains. Runs a 12-min trip from the 5 Aquarium (at Brighton Pier). to 6 Black Rock (near the marina). Adult £3.90, child £2.30 return.

Events

Brighton Racecourse has flat-racing April-Oct. It's on Freshfield Rd a mile east of town centre. Plumpton Racecourse is National Hunt (jumps races) Nov-March, but it's 10 mi (16 km) north in Lewes. Brighton Festival Fringe: early May – early June, ☏ +44 1273 764900

Buy

Shopping is one of the main reasons to visit Brighton. But don't get stuck in the mainstream shopping area around Western Road. There are a huge array of shops catering for all tastes but the impressive assortment of independent shops and boutiques is something that differentiates Brighton from many other British cities. The atmosphere in the North Laine and in The Lanes is one of the intangible aspects of the city that leaves many wanting to return time and time again. Brighton is especially good for Music, Books and independent clothes shops. Head towards Hove on Western Road and you'll find a haven of quality charity shops outside of the centre.

North Laine contains heaps of shops and market stalls to tempt everyone's quirky or vintage fancies without a chain shop in sight. There is a flea market with numerous stalls in Kensington Gardens and another, the 1 North Laine Antiques & Fleamarket in nearby Upper Gardner Street. Shops tend to get less mainstream, the further north into the North Laine area you go. 2 Two Feathers, 11 Kensington Gardens, BN1 4AL, ☏ +44 1273 692929. M-Sa 10AM-6PM, Su 11AM-6PM. Native American jewellery shop selling new age products such as crystals, incense stick, aromatherapy oils and tarot/oracle cards. (updated Sep 2020) 3 Enter Gallery, 13 Bond St, BN1 1RD, ☏ +44 1273 724829. M-F 9:30AM-6PM, Sa 9AM-6PM, Su 11AM-5PM. (updated Sep 2020) The Lanes are known for their independent shops, especially antique shops and jewellers. Can get somewhat repetitive but the indoor market 4 Snooper's Paradise is always a joy to wander. 5 The Lanes Armoury, 26 Meeting House Ln, BN1 1HB, ☏ +44 1273 321357. M-Sa 11AM-5PM, Su closed. World famous for selling antique war memorabilia and weapons. (updated Sep 2020) Brighton is packed full of independent record shops, most of which sell vinyl, including: 6 Resident, 28 Kensington Gardens, BN1 4AL, ☏ +44 1273 606312. M-Sa 9AM-6:30PM, Su 10AM-6PM. Was voted "England's favourite indie record shop" in 2011. (updated Sep 2020) 7 Across The Tracks, 110 Gloucester Rd, BN1 4AF, ☏ +44 1273 677906. (updated Sep 2020) 8 The Record Album, 8 Terminus Rd, BN1 3PD (just above the station). A small shop specialising in vinyl soundtracks and other retro curiosities. (updated Sep 2020) 9 Churchill Square Shopping Centre and the surrounding area offer more mainstream goods, standard fare on UK high streets and in shopping centres. London Road is an unglamorous "High Street" type shopping area with some genuine bargains, particularly at the 10 Open Market. There is a concentration of electronics, photographic and h

Eat

Brighton has excellent food, especially for vegetarians. The most famous (and fairly expensive) vegetarian restaurant is Food for Friends in The Lanes. On the other end of the scale, there are many takeaways in Brighton catering for different kinds of tastes (pizza, Chinese, Mexican, Indian food). On the beachfront there are many stalls near Brighton Pier selling crêpes, doughnuts and ice-cream. Prices are usually fairly cheap and most are open until late.

Budget Preston Street on the border of Hove and Brighton has a string of low to mid priced ethnic restaurants.

City centre 1 Seafood stalls, A259. No seaside town is complete without them. On the seafront, about 100 m west of the pier, are a clutch of stands offering snacks of cockles and mussels, crab sandwiches, fish soup and oysters, all for a few pounds. Daytime only. (updated Feb 2023) 2 The Small Batch Coffee Company, 111 Western Rd. Has locations including Brighton and Hove. (updated Feb 2023) 3 Foodilic, 60 North Street, BN1 1RH, ☏ +44 1273 774138. 11AM-7PM. North Street, is another buffet restaurant, with a variety of vegetarian dishes and some carnivorous options. (updated Feb 2023) 4 Grubbs, 62 Western Rd. Something of a local legend, renowned for their many sauces and toppings. (updated Feb 2023) 5 Pompoko, 110 Church Street. A delightful, small, genuine Japanese cafe, selling a wide range of delicious dishes for a very reasonable price. (If you are eating alone or if there is space at your table, often other diners will be seated with you, which can make some people feel uncomfortable.) Take-away available. (updated Feb 2023) 6 Market Diner (Circus St.), 19-21 Circus Street, BN2 9QF. A "greasy spoon" famed for its all-night opening hours and "gutbusters". (updated Dec 2022)

Elsewhere 7 Burger Off, The New Oak, County Oak Ave, ☏ +44 1273 326655. Burgers. Family-run with a Five-Star Health inspectorate Rating, well worth a visit (updated Feb 2023)

Mid-range 8 The Regency, 131 Kings Rd, BN1 2HH (on the seafront almost opposite the collapsing West Pier), ☏ +44 1273 325014. 8AM-10:30PM. Good value fish and seafood restaurant that won't break the bank. (updated Feb 2023) 9 The Prince George, Trafalgar Street. Pub, near the train station, serves only the finest vegetarian meals and snacks. Wi-Fi available. (updated Feb 2023) 10 Shelter Hall. Not a flop-house for dilapidated sailors, but Hanoi street food Brighton style - mix and match from various vendors. Opened in 2021, it's on the prom at the foot of West St and open M-Sa 8AM-midnight, Su 8AM-10PM. £15-25. (updated Feb 2023) 11 Bi

Drink & nightlife

There are many, many pubs and bars catering for all tastes. Any list of reasonable length will be far from complete; if there's a street in central Brighton there is likely to be a pub on it. LGBT-orientated pubs, bars and clubs are mostly in the Kemp Town area of the city, in the vicinity of St James's Street and Marine Drive. Look out for the spirit 'Tuaca', a sweet Italian brandy liqueur. Almost every bar in Brighton will have it (ask for a squeeze of lime!) but it's rare to see elsewhere in the UK.

Station and Trafalgar Street 1 The Evening Star, 55-56 Surrey St, BN1 3PB (200 m from railway station), ☏ +44 1273 328931. If you enjoy real ales this is a must. They have a wide selection of tap ales, ciders and bottled Headbangers too. Best of all, it's really cheap! (updated Feb 2021) 2 The Great Eastern, 103 Trafalgar St, ☏ +44 1273 685681. Offers a wide range of US bourbons and rye whiskeys. 3 The Prince Albert, 48 Trafalgar Street. Boisterous indie kids' pub, with a selection of local ales and a mural of its patron saint, John Peel. (updated Nov 2023) 4 The Lord Nelson, 36 Trafalgar St. The "Nellie" is a thoroughly traditional, multi-roomed pub serving a range of ales from the 200-year-old brewery in nearby Lewes.

North Laine 5 Basketmakers Arms, 12 Gloucester Rd, BN1 4AD, ☏ +44 1273 689006. Great traditional backstreet pub on a side street in the North Laine area. Excellent choice of English ales and excellent good value food. Often busy so arrive early to bag a seat. 6 Eagle. directly opposite is also excellent. (updated Feb 2021) 7 The Heart & Hand, 75 North Rd, BN1 1YD (just off Queen's Rd). This traditional pub, is an indie kids' favourite, famed for its jukebox (updated Mar 2021) 8 Ten Green Bottles, 9 Jubilee St, Brighton BN1 1GE (opposite the Jubilee Library), ☏ +44 1273 567176. a wine bar and merchant (updated Mar 2021)

The Lanes 9 The Cricketers, 15 Black Lion St, BN1 1ND, ☏ +44 1273 329472. Brighton's oldest pub, with a plush Victorian interior. Pricey. (updated Mar 2021) 10 Hotel du Vin, Ship St.. An excellent but very pricey operation. (updated Nov 2023) 11 The Victory, Duke Street. Old-fashioned green-tiled pub with fine ales and gigs upstairs. (updated Nov 2023)

Pavilion 12 Fitz Regent, 7-8 Castle Square, BN1 1FX. A cheap pub. Expect to see just about any type of person in here from Indie Kids and Goths to Old Men and Chavs who somehow all manage to co-exist harmoniously. There is also a nightclub above the pub. (updated Feb 2021) 13 Ye Olde King & Queen, 13-17 Marlborough Pl. A faux traditional old pub that never loses

Sleep

Budget A general note on hostels in Brighton- research the place you're booking into thoroughly before committing. Some are not meant for travellers although marketed as 'hostels'. Hostelpoint on the seafront in particular has a rough reputation, being overcrowded with junkies and generally unsafe. Spend a couple of quid extra and go for a friendlier place, it's worth it.

1 OYO Gullivers, 12 New Steine, ☏ +44 1919340021. Right in the city centre, approximately 250 m from Brighton Pier. Double Rooms from £46.25pppn. 2 Kipps Hostel, 76 Grand Parade, ☏ +44 1273 604182. Close to Old Stein, Kipps is a pleasant place to stay with a variety of room sizes (10 share mixed dorm to private rooms). The staff are very helpful and welcoming.

Mid-range 3 The Brighton Hotel, 143-145 Kings Road, Brighton, East Sussex, BN1 2PQ, ☏ +44 1273 820555, [email protected]. This Grade II listed hotel is on the seafront directly opposite the Brighton Bandstand. (updated Jul 2015) 4 Granville Hotel, 124 Kings Rd, ☏ +44 1273 326302. It's right on the seafront, with no other buildings between it and the beach, and so half of its 24 rooms have a great view of the sea. Each room is decorated in a different style: Japanese, Art Deco, Wedgwood and lace, etc. Some of the rooms have built-in Jacuzzis in the en-suite baths. Well-executed breakfasts, including a vegetarian (and optionally vegan) version of a full English breakfast. Seaview rooms start from £108 (price for two people including breakfast); other rooms are £88. All rooms are non-smoking. 5 Mercure Brighton Seafront Hotel, 149 Kings Rd, ☏ +44 844 815 9061, [email protected]. This grand Victorian beachfront hotel was built back in 1864 and has all the period features. Next to Brighton Pier. Internet access in all rooms. Double rooms from £100 per night. 6 New Steine Hotel, 10-11 New Steine, ☏ +44 1273 695415, +44 1273 681546. New Steine Hotel is right in the heart of Brighton city centre, a few hundred metres from the Pier. The restaurant, the New Steine Bistro has been awarded the AA Breakfast and Dinner Award for outstanding quality and service. Double rooms from £95 per night. 7 Artist Residence, 33 Regency Square BN1 2FJ, ☏ +44 1273 324302. Modern graffiti art decorates this characterful small hotel. Good scores for comfort and service. B&B double £110. (updated Jul 2020) 8 A Room With A View, 41 Marine Parade, Brighton BN2 1PE, ☏ +44 1273 682885. Bright clean B&B in a Regency house on Kemp Town prom. No children under 12 or dogs. B&B double £110. (updated Aug 2020) 9 Paskins Town House, 18 Charlott

Go next

Lewes – this gorgeous medieval town has a castle, as well as Glyndebourne Opera House, a famous opera house, set in beautiful grounds where opera-goers eat gourmet picnics at intervals which can be brought in or ordered from their own catering service. 11 mi (18 km) from Brighton and 20 minutes away by train. Dieppe, France – by ferry from Newhaven Harbour, about 9 mi (14 km) east of Brighton. Services are three daily and take around four hours. The service is operated by DFDS Rottingdean – in the east of Brighton, with memories of Kipling, Burne-Jones and several other artists. London – an hour away via train or 2 hours via coach. Worthing – There is no reason you wouldn't want to visit this lovely town. Short journey via train from Brighton Station.