Brașov

Understand

In the Middle Ages Transylvania had Hungarian rulers, who brought in Saxon settlers. They developed the walled town known in German as Kronstadt and in Hungarian as Brassó. Later development was further out so this old centre was largely preserved. It has good tourist facilities and is well worth an extended stay: perhaps because it lacks a well-connected airport, it's not as well known to westerners as similar old towns such as Sibiu and Cluj Napoca. Shop, restaurant and hotel staff often speak English and German. For the visitor therefore, the core of Brașov is the old town (largely pedestrianised) and adjoining Șchei district. The modern city is to the east and north, with a "centrul nou" or civic centre, and low-rise blocks sprawling to the bus and railway stations and beyond. To avoid ambiguity, directions here refer to the old town centre. The Tourist Information Centre is in the Town History Museum on Piața Sfatului (Council Square), open daily 09:00-17:00. Bring warm clothing, the mountain setting means that Brașov is often wet and cold, especially at night.

Getting there

By plane 1 Brașov Airport (GHV IATA). The newest airport in Romania, opened in June 2023. Flights from Dortmund and London-Luton, provided by Wizz Air. There are no domestic flights. (updated Mar 2024) 2 Bucharest Otopeni Airport (OTP IATA). About 160 km (99 mi) south, and has good connections across Europe. There are direct buses to Brașov from the airport, and trains from Gara de Nord, every hour or two, taking 3 hours. (updated Oct 2023)

By train From Bucharest Gara de Nord there are 13 direct trains daily between 06:00 and 21:00, taking about 2 hr 40 min (49 lei, Sep 2018). Travel via Bucharest from Bulgaria, Moldova and Turkey. From Budapest Keleti there are three direct trains daily (one daytime & two overnight sleepers) via Arad, Deva and Sibiu, taking about 13 hours. One of the sleepers is a direct train from Vienna Hbf. A couple of other connections are possible from Budapest Nyugati via Oradea, taking 16 hours. There are direct trains from Sibiu (6/day, 3-4 hours), Constanța (one direct, others via Bucharest) and Cluj Napoca (4/day, 7 hours). The passenger train operator is CFR Călători. The 3 railway station is 3 km north of the old centre, at the foot of Bvd Victoriei. It's a tired communist-era hall, but there are ticket kiosks, ATMs, cafes and (downstairs) a left-luggage store open 24/7 (5 lei per day small bag, 10 lei large). More food kiosks outside, and city bus stops - take #4 or #51 for the old centre. Next door is Autogara 1.

By car Brașov has good road connections, as it's in a valley where several routes across the hills converge. Main highways are:

E60 runs south past Ploiesti and Otopeni airport to Bucharest. Towards north, it leads to Sighisoara, Cluj-Napoca, Oradea and Budapest. E68 runs west to Sibiu, Deva, Arad and Timișoara into Hungary. E574 runs north to Romania's Moldavia region, Iași, and into Ukraine and Moldova. It runs south to Pitesti and Craiova. Ring ahead to your accommodation for advice on parking, which is often difficult in Brașov. In winter you're required to have winter tyres: in this hilly region police often check, with stiff fines for non-compliance.

By bus Buses run every hour or two to Sibiu (2 hr 30 min), Cluj Napoca (4 hr 30 min) and Bucharest (3 hr). The Bucharest buses also stop at Otopeni airport. The Bucharest buses run from Autogara 1 (also called Codreana), next to the railway station. Most other inter-city buses run from 4 Autogara 2, at the foot of Strada Avram Iancu, 4 km north of the old centre. (It's sometimes called Stadion Tineretului for the adjacent sports stadium.) For timet

Getting around

On foot The old town, and westward extension of Șchei, are compact and walkable - indeed they're mostly pedestrian precinct. The new town and burbs stretch a long way. Bike rental is available in the central square Piața Sfatului, 4 lei per hour.

By bus Buses in Brașov are run by RATBv (Regia Autonomă de Transport Brașov). They mostly run weekdays 05:30 to midnight, weekends 06:30 to 23:00; there's no night service. Most bus stops have real-time digital displays of what's coming. Google Maps usually plans perfect routes via public transport in Brașov. The biggest city bus interchange near the old city is 5 Livada Poștei. It is on the north edge of the old centre; if you travel a lot around the city, prepare to arrive to and depart from here lots of times.

Tickets For tourists and visitors, a recommended option (least hassle) is to pay using the 24pay smartphone app. You should scan the QR code by the driver with the app to get the ticket. Alternatively, you can buy paper tickets (from the kiosks or ticket machines at the main bus stops - if there aren't any, look for any nearby newsagent kiosk or super/mini market - they'll often display a sign "bilete"). Validate the ticket after boarding the bus. A standard ticket is 5 lei, which can be used for 2 x 50 minutes with any number of transfers. Not valid on bus 20. A one-way ticket to Poiana Brașov (bus 20) costs 6 lei. If you stay long-term, consider buying a one-month pass (85 lei, unlimited travels on all bus lines, including 20).

Lines For visitors, the most relevant bus lines:

Bus 4 from the railway station to Piața Sfatului in old centre then Șchei and Tocile, then loops back again Bus 50 from the valley SW of town through Piața Unirii in Șchei, round old centre via Livada Poștei then out again SW Bus 20 from Livada Poștei to Poiana Brașov - at the kiosk, say where you're going for the appropriate ticket Bus A1 from the railway station to Brașov Airport Some other useful lines are:

If you're going to Autogara 2, you can use buses 12, 15, 28 (from Livada Poștei) or 23, 23B (from the railway station) To reach Coresi Mall (the biggest mall in the city), you can use buses 2 (from Livada Poștei) or 8 (from the railway station) To reach the zoo or Aventura park, you can use buses 17 (from Livada Poștei) or 35 (from the railway station) To go hiking in Piatra Mare mountains (including Seven Ladders canyon), use bus 17B (from the railway station; runs once every 1-2 hours)

By taxi Taxis make sense if you're struggling with luggage between bus and railway station and old town, reckon 3 lei per

See

Old Town In the Middle Ages, Transylvania's Hungarian rulers brought in Saxon settlers, to defend and develop the area. They built up the walled city of Kronstadt, which today forms the Old Town of Brașov. Most of the city sights are here, in the pedestrianised zone centred on Council Square (Piața Sfatului) and along the spine of Republicii street. Main sights include the Piața Sfatului, the Black Church, and the former Council House. Around the walled city, you can see the Șchei and Catherine Gates, Weavers' Bastion, Black Tower, and White Tower. To the south lies Șchei district, described below. Stroll at random, or follow the route suggested in the Brasov cultural itinerary, or join one of the free guided walking tours run by Guided-Brasov.com. Note: if you wish to take photos in any museum, you must pay an extra fee (inquire when buying tickets). In the Black Church, you cannot take photos.

1 The Black Church (just south of main square). Summer Tu-Sa 10:00-19:00, Su 12:00-19:00; in winter closes 16:00. Built as a Roman Catholic church in the 15th century in late Gothic style with three naves. It became Lutheran under the influence of Johannes Honter, the Luther of Romania. It was scorched by the Great Fire of 1689, hence the name "Black Church", and later restored in Baroque style. Its main features are the six-tonne bell, the 4000-pipe organ built in 1839 by Carl August Buchholz which is still played during weekly concerts, and a rich collection of Anatolian carpets, donated in the Middle Ages by city merchants. 10 lei adult, 3 lei age 7-18. (updated Apr 2018) 2 County History Museum (Muzeul Județean de Istorie), Piața Sfatului. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. Local exhibits from the stone age to the present day. (updated Apr 2018) 3 Museum of Urban Civilisation, Piața Sfatului. Tu-Su 09:00-17:00. Presents the life of the local patriciate between the 17th-20th centuries. It is a branch of Museum of Ethnography (Bulevardul Eroilor 21A), enquire about combi-tickets. (updated Jan 2019) 4 Mureșenilor House Memorial Museum (Muzeul Memorial Casa Mureșenilor). On main square commemorates the members of the Mureșanu family (including Andrei Mureșanu, the writer of the National Anthem). In Romanian only. (updated Sep 2019) Poarta Șchei is the street leading down to the gates of the old town. Along it (by No 19) find Rope Street (Strada Sforii), a picturesque alley, and the Beth Israel Synagogue (entrance by No 29, open M-F 09:00-16:00, 5 lei). Old Town ends at the Șchei & St Catherine Gates5 . The medieval entrance and tollgate was St Catherine's Gate, which you coul

Do

Zilele Brașovului (Feast Days of Brașov). Held in the week leading up to Orthodox Easter. It has several fairs with craftsman, wine, food, etc. It ends with the Parades of Juni on Easter Sunday (Duminica Tomii), which in 2019 will be Su 28 April, one week after the western Easter. (updated Apr 2018) Cerbul de Aur (Golden Stag) music festival. In 2018 it celebrated 50 years of existence (though only 18 editions were held in this period). It is held in the main square, bringing lots of pop artists and musicians (but also cluttering the square with tons of heavy iron scaffolding and stage for about one month). Oktoberfest (Beer Festival / Festivalul Berii). Smaller but less industrial version of the Munich event, with beer tents, music and of course sausages. (updated Apr 2018) Brașov Philharmony. Classical concerts and recitals. 20 lei. Organ concerts at the Black Church. June, September: Tu 18:00-18:30; July, August: Tu Th Sa 18:00-18:30, ticket price 8 lei Mureșenilor House. Free classical music recitals Brașov Opera. 20 lei. Sică Alexandrescu” Theatre, Piața Teatrului 1, ☏ +40 268 418 850. Climb around in the climbing park Aventura. Tracks range from very easy to very difficult and the entrance fee is about 30 lei for one person. You can get there with several buses: line 17 (city centre), line 35 (trainstation) and line 21. Climb in the biggest Romanian indoor climbing Gym Natural High . Tracks range from very easy to very difficult. Location: str. Carpatilor, inside METROM industrial zone. Swim in two water parks: Paradisul Acvatic (it's open all the year) and Aqua Park. Hiking and trekking - Brașov is surrounded by scenic hills and mountains, ideal for exploring. And the woodlands and limestone slopes support almost 40 species of orchids. Skiing - see page for Poiana Brașov ski resort, 10 km away. Transfagarașan Highway. This road twists and turns through spectacular mountain passes about 100 km west of Brașov. A private tour from Brașov for two or more people will cost 450 lei per person. Open July 1-October 31. (updated Sep 2018)

Buy

The biggest shopping mall is Coresi. Others are Unirea Shopping Center, Eliana Mall, STAR, and the shops near the big Carrefour near Calea Bucuresti. For food and regular shopping the hypermarkets (Carrefour, Metro, Selgros, Kaufland) are better value. They're edge of town on the road to Bucharest, from Livada Poștei take Bus 17 and from the railway station Bus 35. A good market for local produce is Astra (Piața Astra), SE off Uranus Bvd, take Bus 6 from Livada Poștei.

Eat

Since there are lots of tourists, there's more upmarket choice, but mid-range prices are higher.

Budget Fornetti is a Hungarian pastry chain with many outlets, eg at the railway station and downtown. They sell small pastry pieces stuffed with cheese or jam. Prices are fair and the quality is very high. Ando's, Bvd 15 Noiembrie 6 (On main road 200 m E of old centre), ☏ +40 268 410 588. Daily, 24 hr. Fast food place with menus and sandwiches (chicken and fish) at low prices. (updated Apr 2018) Panini - Also on 15 Noiembrie (nr. 40) is a 24/7 fast food restaurant, with great sandwiches for incredibly low prices. STAR supermarket, nearby at Strada Nicolae Bălcescu 62, has decent cheap food. Just around the corner is Kebab House, serving doner kebap non-stop.

Mid-range La Republique, Strada Republicii 33 (in old centre), ☏ +40 744 351 668. Su-Th 09:00-23:00; F Sa 09:00-00:00. French-themed pub serving a wide range of sweet and savoury crepes. Part of a chain. Inexpensive. (updated Apr 2018) Roata Norocului, Strada Crișan 6 (500 m N of old centre at foot of road to ski resort), ☏ +40 744 548 684. Daily 10:00-23:30. Good quality Romanian fare. Good service. (updated Apr 2018)

Splurge Bistro de l'Arte, Piața George Enescu 11 (in old centre), ☏ +40 720 535 566. M-Sa 09:00-01:00; Su 12:00-01:00. French style restaurant but also burgers & breakfasts. Madame is idiosyncratic about who she admits. (updated Apr 2018)

Drink & nightlife

1 For Sale Pub, Bvd 15 Noiembre 24 (100 m east of old town). Daily 13:00-23:30. Friendly long-established pub. (updated Apr 2018) Hirscher12 - Cocktail Bistro (formerly Gott Pub), Strada Hirscher 12 (On corner of Poarta Șchei). Daily 08:00-01:00. Scottish themed pub. Nice atmosphere, rugs covering everything. It has darts and a big plasma TV screen for football games. Wide selection of beers and they also serve breakfast. (updated Apr 2018) Deane's Irish Pub & Grill, Strada Republicii 19. Daily 10:00-03:00. You can get Guinness, a host of Irish coffees and an Ulster Fry. (updated Apr 2018)

Sleep

Ignore the touts at the railway & bus stations, who'll offer an overpriced ditch.

Budget Ioana Guesthouse, 1 Str. Dealu Melcilor (off Str Titulescu, 1 km E of old centre), ☏ +40 744 831 863. Friendly & spacious. (updated Apr 2018) Hotel Aro Sport, 3 Str. Sfântul Ioan, ☏ +40 268 142 840. Just round the corner from Aro Palace Hotel, but an unrelated business, this is a clean modern budget choice. Rooms are small and minimally furnished but include a sink. (updated Feb 2018) Hotel Postavarul, 2 Politehnicii, ☏ +40 268 455 700. The Postavarul is a separate wing of the Coroana (see "Mid-range") and bookings are made through that hotel. All of the immaculate rooms have washbasins, but some share a shower and toilet. Good location and service. (updated Feb 2018) Kismet Dao Hostel, 2B Str Democratii (just off main square of Șchei district), ☏ +40 268 514 296. Complimentary beer or soft drink, cereal breakfast, coffee and tea all day long, unlimited Internet & Wi-Fi access, bed sheets & towels, big lockers and tour information make this a great value. This hostel has a great staff and is blast to stay at. The staff regularly hosts barbeques in their new awesome yard. Dorm €10-12, private room €30. (updated Apr 2018) La Despani Guesthouse, 128 Mihau Viteazu (2.5 km N of old centre), ☏ +40 721 373 747. Bright, clean, comfortable guesthouse located between bus station (Autogara 2) and old centre. A family-run hostel with informative, friendly, helpful owners. Free Internet. From €30/room. (updated Apr 2018) Mara Hostel, 11 Piața Sfatului / 5A Str Johan Got, ☏ +40 769 626 206, [email protected]. Small hostel set in the middle of the old town, 200 m from the central square. Airy dormitories, wifi and friendly, helpful staff. Sheets provided, no lockers but room keys. €10/night. (updated Feb 2018) Rolling Stone Hostel, 2A Piatra Mare (just off main square of in Șchei district), ☏ +40 268 513 965. Family-run place, offering both dorms and privates. Cheapest bed is €10 with all that you need included (kitchen access, clean sheets, towels, laundry, Internet Wi-Fi). Tours available for all surrounding sights. (updated Apr 2018) JugendStube Hostel, 13 Michael Weiss (in old centre, 2 blocks S of Bvd Eroilor), ☏ +40 771 098 322. Breakfast included, clean sheets, Internet Wi-Fi. €17/night. (updated Jun 2026)

Mid-range Hotel Ambient, 27 Iuliu Maniu (500 m NE of old centre), ☏ +40 268 470 856. 3-star hotel near the Old Town, offers very friendly service. All rooms have showers, minibar, international telephone, as well as some which have very nice balconies. If

Go next

Easy day trips from Brașov include: Râșnov with its great fortress and abundant history is only 16 km southwest. Take train or frequent bus. Bran, another 10 km further, has a striking castle, but is tourist-trippy and overplays the Dracula connection. Poiana Brașov is a big ski resort 10 km above Brașov. Frequent buses, lots of tourist facilities. Prejmer is a village 12 km east with a fortified church. Feldioara fortress is 15 km north. Further away: Făgăraș, to the north, has a fortress, and a little way beyond it is Sâmbăta de Sus fortress and monastery Sighișoara is a medieval fortified town teetering on a hilltop, and birthplace of Dracula. It's 120 km north and reached by train or bus. With your own transport, detour along the way to see Hoghiz, Racoș, Rupea and Viscri. Sibiu is the star attraction of Transylvania, a splendidly preserved medieval city, about 3 hours away by bus or train. Heading south, Pitești (120 km) is the last town that feels "Transylvanian". It's reached via Bran and the Rucar pass across the mountains. On the way, detour to Curtea de Argeș, an old Wallachian fortress. Further south, you come down to the flat fields of Wallachia, and the highway races away to Bucharest.