Bordeaux

Understand

Bordeaux and the whole province of Aquitaine came under English rule for 300 years from 1154, when Eleanor of Aquitaine married the future King Henry II. The English rulers enjoyed drinking the wines of Bordeaux, but they enjoyed the profits even more – trade with Bordeaux was their largest source of income. Most wine came from the Graves region just upriver from the city, and this was a clear, deep rosé called clairet, still produced today. The English came to call any Bordeaux red wine “claret”. In 1453 France took control of Aquitaine and cut off the supply to England, who ceased to drink wine for the next 500 years, turning to beer and gin. This caused a slump in Bordeaux, which only revived from the 16th century through trans-Atlantic trade. The city then prospered through the 18th century, when most of its fine buildings were erected, and it provided the model for Baron Haussmann's 19th-century remodelling of Paris. Bordeaux also came to eclipse other French Atlantic ports such as Bayonne and La Rochelle. Much of the wealth was based on the triangular slave trade: sugar, rum and other plantation products were shipped to France from the Americas and Caribbean, France shipped industrial wares to Africa, whence the slaves were sent west to work those plantations. Bordeaux suffered a human cost in later turmoils: the French Revolution, Napoleonic wars, and First and Second World Wars. But the damage to buildings was small enough to be repaired, rather than needing whole-scale rebuilding. The 18th-century grandeur was thus preserved. It helped that the limestone and gravel subsoil wouldn't take the weight of high-rise buildings. Credit is also due to the Mayor of Bordeaux (and former French prime minister) Alain Juppé, for keeping out modern intrusions while revitalising the inner city, with pedestrian precincts and a revamped transport system. Office de Tourisme is the TIC, at 12 Cours du 30 Juillet, southwest corner of Place des Quinconces, tel +33 5 5600 6600. It's open M–Sa 09:00–18:30, Su 09:30–17:00.

Getting there

By plane It has many connections from other cities in west Europe, UK and Ireland, and North Africa (Tunis, Algers, Agadir, Casablanca, Marrakesh, Oujda and Fez). Other destinations include Istanbul and Tel Aviv. Air Transat have seasonal transatlantic flights. For the time being there are domestic flights from Paris Orly and CDG, but these will fall foul of the law banning flights between cities reached overland in under 2½ hours. Other domestic routes are from Ajaccio, Lyon, Lille, Marseille, Montpellier, Nice and Strasbourg. 1 Bordeaux-Mérignac Airport (BOD IATA) (15 km west of city centre). There are in effect 2½ terminals, side by side. Air France uses Terminal B, the budget airlines use Terminal "Billi" which is the half, an add-on to B. Other flights use A and B; these two are modern spacious terminals with the usual land- and air-side facilities including car hire. "Billi" has a poky, cramped check-in area, but shops and restaurants once you get airside. It is notoriously badly managed and understaffed which results in long queues, and not infrequently passengers missing their flights. Allow extra time for check-in and security. (updated Jul 2023) Getting to the centre:

Tram A runs to city centre daily 05:00–00:00 every 10 min, taking 35 minutes. Change at Porte de Bourgogne for the railway station and other tram and bus lines. You pay the standard city bus fare of €1.70, see below for other ticket options. Outbound, alternate trams branch north to Mérignac and Le Haillan Rostand and don't go to the airport. Bus 30’ Direct runs to the railway station non-stop, daily 07:00-20:00 every 30 min M–Sa and hourly on Sunday. The single fare is €8 (concessions €7) and you can pay on the bus by card or cash. Bus 39 skirts the west edge of the city from Pessac in the south to the airport, Le Haillan Rostand and Les Pins in Mérignac. It goes nowhere near downtown.

By train TGV trains speed hourly from Paris Montparnasse, taking just over two hours non-stop. A couple of trains per day run direct from Paris CDG airport, though the travel time of almost four hours is slower than changing at Montparnasse between RER and TGV. Alternate TGVs from Paris continue south along the coast to Bayonne, Biarritz, and the Spanish border at Hendaye. Cheaper regional TER trains also run this route, as well as north to La Rochelle and inland to Périgueux and Limoges. Fast Intercité trains run from Toulouse, Montpellier and Marseille. 2 Gare Saint-Jean is the railway station, 4 km south-east of the city centre. The main entrance faces west down Cours de la Marne; buses,

Getting around

Orientation Bordeaux's centrepiece is the elegant riverfront and former port, where fine 18th-century buildings stretch for 3 km (2 mi) along the west bank of the Garonne, from Quinconces in the north to St Croix in the south. The old central districts of St Pierre and St Michel extend inland for about 1 km. Most city sights are in this area. The railway station is south, at the foot of Cours de la Marne. To the north, Quai des Chartrons has been redeveloped as the “City of Wine”, and has the wine museum. The main university campus is in the suburb of Talence, 10 km southwest. The districts east of the river are modern: the main reasons to cross are for the view back west in morning sunshine, and to visit the Botanic Gardens.

On foot Although Bordeaux is a big city, the sights of interest are fairly close together in the old centre, and much of it is pedestrianised. A car here would be a handicap.

By bus TBM re-organised the city network in Sep 2023. Beware outdated information in tourist guides, even on this page. All public transport information is posted on the TBM website. Maps and times can also be easily accessed with Google Maps, just select route "By public transport" when getting directions. The city bus routes fan out from four hubs:

The main railway station, Gare Saint-Jean, has buses to city centre, university, and north side. Place de la Victoire has buses to the centre, railway station, University, and north and south-west sides of the city. Place Gambetta has buses to la Victoire, the railway station, and west, north-west, and north sides. Quinconces is a main interchange between trams and buses. A small electric bus la navette du centre-ville potters around the pedestrian areas. It has no bus stops, just wave your hand to be let on, and tell the driver when you want to get off. Single tickets can be purchased from the bus driver, for €1.80 in 2023; a return is €3.20. If you're likely to make eight or more journeys, buy a package of ten tickets for €14.50 or a daily / weekly pass for €5 / €14.20. All tickets are good for one hour of unlimited transfers on bus and tram, but you must re-validate your ticket each time you change. Single, return and ten tickets can be bought from the tram stop machines, which accept cards or coins. For passes you need to present photo ID, and can do this online or at the kiosks at Gare Saint-Jean, Place Gambetta and Quinconces.

By tram

There are several tram routes (A, B, C, D, E & F) crossing the city. Tickets and fares are the same as for the bus, with unlimited transfers within one hour. The t

See

1 Place des Quinconces is the broad leafy square at the focus of the west riverbank. The ornate Girondins Memorial commemorates those guillotined here after that faction lost the power struggle with the Montagnards in 1793, and the Revolution descended into a "Reign of Terror". The square is nowadays a transport hub - just about every city bus and tram route passes through it. Port of the Moon is the elegant waterfront crescent centred on Place des Quinconces that earned Bordeaux its UNESCO citation. You get a sublime view from the opposite riverbank at dusk.

South of Quinconces 2 Place Gambetta, with upmarket mansions, is just outside the former walls, with Porte Dijeaux the city gate. Musée des Arts décoratifs et du Design on Rue Bouffard is closed until 2025. 3 Cathédrale St-André, Place Pey Berland, ☏ +33 5 5544 6729. M 15:00-19:00, Tu-Sa 10:30-12:00, 14:00-19:00, Su 09:30-12:00, 14:00-19:00. Grand church built from 1170 in Gothic style. It was trashed during the Revolution but restored from 1803. You can climb the detached bell-tower "Pey-Berland". (updated Jul 2023) 4 Musée des Beaux-Arts, 20 Cours d'Albret (west side of Hotel de Ville, but you need to enter from C d'Albret), ☏ +33 5 5610 2056. W-M 11:00-18:00. An enlightening walk through the history of western art. Start in the south wing which runs from the Renaissance via the Flemish masters to end of 18th century. The north wing continues through the major 19th and early 20th-century art movements. Exhibitions are in the annexe, Galerie des Beaux-Arts, on Place du Colonel Raynal 200 m north. Adult €8, conc €4.50. (updated Jul 2023) 5 Place de la Bourse is surrounded by grand buildings. You can also admire their reflections in the Water Mirror on the other side of the boulevard: it's a thin skin of water so in warm weather children scamper through it. Musée National des Douanes, 1 Place de la Bourse (south side of square), ☏ +33 9 7027 5766. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. Surprisingly informative museum of border control and customs, and their smuggler opponents, down the centuries. Signage only in French, non-francophones should get the audioguide. Adult €4, conc €2, child free. (updated Jul 2023) 6 Place de Parlement is an elegant pedestrian plaza lined with eating places. Église Saint-Pierre is from 15th century, with a flamboyant Gothic portal, and stained glass windows gloriously backlit by the afternoon sun. It's on Place Saint-Pierre 150 m south of Place de la Bourse. 7 Porte Cailhau is one of the old city gates. You can pay a few euro to enter the gatehouse but there's not much within and only

Do

National Opera is on Place de la Comédie, 100 m south of Place des Quinconces. As well as opera it hosts ballet and musicals. Jeux Barjo, 12 Rue Saint-James (100 m north of Grosse Cloche), ☏ +33 5 5651 0021. Tu-Sa 14:00-00:00, Su 14:00-22:00. Bar specialising in board games ancient and modern: you pay for either one long or three short games. Staff assist if you want to try a game you're not familiar with. They also stage tournaments. (updated Jul 2023)

Taste wine

Bewildered by the choice in your local supermarket? Prepare to be overwhelmed by what Bordeaux has to offer… but, if you're not sure of your taste, do make use of that supermarket to do your homework beforehand. The top vineyards start from around €500 a bottle and run up to €50,000 and beyond. This is money down the drain if you only have a €5 palate. But you can easily organise yourself a blind tasting – this cuts through all the marketing, peer pressure and posing. Blind, can you tell a Claret from a Burgundy? Or indeed from a white, or squid's ink? But if you find the good stuff speaks to you, calls you, leaves a memory on your palate, then Bordeaux is where it is calling you home. The appellation system (AOC) of the Bordeaux area is bewildering, with 50 AOCs in eight main regions. Wines mostly use the more specific AOCs where those are applicable, so don't just look for "AOC Bordeaux". A good start is the Musée du Vin et du Négoce, see above. A variety of tours and tastings are organised by Office de Tourisme, see Understand above. These include châteaux and vineyards, city routes, and wine & cookery classes. You can tour the vineyards independently, but then you need a car, and there's a fraught conversation to be had about who's driving afterwards and how much of a shared holiday experience this is turning out to be. Each area has its own Maison du Vin showcasing local products. Several châteaux are open to drop-in visitors, others are by appointment, ask at the Office de Tourisme. The top châteaux will be snooty if they don't recognise you as a serious buyer: they're fed up with time-wasters seeking a free glug of Grand Cru Kings-Ransom 1896.

Sports

Football: FC Girondins de Bordeaux play football in Ligue 2 the second tier. You should have no difficulty buying tickets on the day. Girondins home ground is Nouveau Stade (or "Matmut Atlantique", capacity 42,000), 10 km north of city centre. Get there on Tram C to Parc des Expositions, or Bus 25 or 37. Rugby union: Union Bordeaux Bègles play in Top 14, the top flight of French rugby. They were formed in 2006 by the merger of Sta

Buy

Bordeaux has made its wealth out of trade, and the local economic system relies heavily on shops and trading halls. The Pedestrian Centre is full of stores of all kinds, from clothes to art, craftworks, food and wine. For luxury items, head to Gambetta Square and its surroundings. Buy some local music: Kap Bambino is an electronic music duo formed by singer Caroline Martial and beat-smith boyfriend Orion Bouvier. Clothing is less expensive than in Paris, so wear comfortable shoes and head to Rue Sainte Catherine, the longest pedestrian precinct in Europe and the best place for shopping. For some cheap second-hand and vintage clothes, try KiloChic on 40 Cours de la Somme. There are also a few AMOS second-hand stores in the city that offer a nice selection of second-hand and vintage stuff. If you buy wine, do it in town (duty paid) to go in checked baggage; the airport's not a good place because of tourist-trappy prices, limited selection and carry-on limits. Keep receipts handy, your own country probably has a bigger customs allowance for wine that's duty-paid.

Eat

Budget 1 La Jeune Garde, 19 Rue des Douves, ☏ +33 9 8755 3151. Daily 11:00-14:30, 18:00-00:00. Pleasant food in a friendly rustic cafe. (updated Jul 2023) Chat Noir Cha Vert, 47 Rue des Faures (north side of Basilique Saint-Michel), ☏ +33 5 5795 9332. Pleasant place for light bites and views of the basilica. (updated Jul 2023) Beirut Kitchen, 8 Quai de la Grave (east side of Basilique Saint-Michel), ☏ +33 7 8846 9367. W-F 12:00-14:00, 19:00-22:00, Sa Su 12:00-22:00. Good mezze and other Levantine fare. (updated Jul 2023) Chez Ta Mère, 12 Rue Camille Sauvageau (50 m south of Basilique Saint-Michel), ☏ +33 5 5692 5512. Tu-Sa 18:30-02:00. As the name suggests, they serve rustic home-style cuisine. (updated Jul 2023) Ebisu, 265 Rue Saint-Catherine (100 north of Place de la Victoire), ☏ +33 5 5691 3252. M-Th 11:30-14:30, 18:30-22:30, F-Su 11:30-22:30. Tasty ramen and other Japanese dishes. (updated Jul 2023) Remparts Café, 75 Rue des Remparts (north side of cathedral), ☏ +33 5 5681 4429. M-F 08:00-20:30, Sa 08:00-19:00. Charming bistro a few steps from the cathedral. (updated Jul 2023) L'Autre Petit Bois, 12 Place du Parlement (west side of plaza), ☏ +33 5 5648 0293. Daily 09:00-00:45. Quirky sandwich cafe, generous portions, gets crowded. (updated Jul 2023) Seang Thai, 26 Rue Saint-Rémi (100 m west of Place de la Bourse), ☏ +33 5 5644 2978. Tu-Sa 12:00-14:00, 19:00-22:00. It's Chinese not Thai, and the flavours are not particularly strong. (updated Jul 2023) Wild Note Vegan Burger, 20 Rue Sanche de Pomiers. This is temporarily closed. (updated Jul 2023)

Mid-range Café Populaire, 1 Rue Kléber (200 m east of Place de la Victoire), ☏ +33 5 5694 3906. W-Sa 19:30-02:00. Relaxed restaurant, then it morphs into a dad-dancing arena. (updated Jul 2023) 2 Le Café du Port, 1 Quai Deschamps, ☏ +33 5 5677 8118. Daily 12:00-14:00, 19:30-22:30. Great views of Pont de Pierre and the left riverbank. Good dining to match, they often host events. (updated Jul 2023) 3 L'entrecôte, 4 Cours du 30 juillet, ☏ +33 5 5681 7610. Daily 12:00-14:00, 19:00-22:00. A city institution, no reservations and you'll probably have a long wait in line. What you get is a walnut salad, two pieces of entrecôte steak and unlimited fries, plus dessert and wine. Most customers reckon it's worth the wait. (updated Jul 2023) 4 Couleur Cafe, 28 Rue du Pere Louis de Jabrun, ☏ +33 5 5648 2858. Mostly positive reviews for this bistro by the cathedral. (updated Jul 2023) 5 Chez Faty, 190 Cours Saint Louis, ☏ +32 6 6791 2661. M-Sa 11:00-14:30. Delicious lunchtime couscous and tajine. (updated J

Drink & nightlife

Place de la Victoire is the main place for pubs and bars, while night-clubs are on the Quais near the railway station. Dick Turpin's, 72 Rue du Loup (100 m east of cathedral), ☏ +33 5 5648 0752. Tu-Sa 17:00-02:00, F Sa 18:00-01:00. English style pub with good drink and music, relaxed friendly vibe. (updated Jul 2023) El Chuchumbe, 6 Rue Causserouge (off Rue Leyteire), ☏ +33 5 5631 2588. W-Sa 18:00-02:00. Latin bar serving inexpensive mojitos, and towards midnight it becomes a salsa dance floor. (updated Jul 2023) The Frog and Rosbif, 23 Rue Ausone (100 m south of Porte Cailhau). Su-Th 17:00-01:00, F Sa 17:00-02:00. English pub with micro-brewery in a 16th century women's prison, a popular gathering spot for live TV sports. (updated Jul 2023) Le Break, 23 Rue de Candale (50 m north of Place de la Victoire), ☏ +33 5 5692 9207. M-Sa 10:00-06:30. A popular bar with a young crowd. (updated Jul 2023) Le Café Brun, 45 Rue Saint Rémi (one block north of Place de Parlement), ☏ +33 5 5652 2049. M-Sa 09:00-01:40, Su 13:00-01:40. Atmospheric old bar with a huge selection of whiskies and Belgian beers. (updated Jul 2023)

Sleep

Budget 1 Auberge de la Jeunesse (Youth Hostel), 22 Cours Barbey (300 m west of railway station), ☏ +33 5 5633 0070. Bordeaux's only hostel is central but a dingy basic place. They have ten rooms with two beds, 17 with four and three with six. No access to rooms 11:00-16:00. €25 ppn. (updated Jul 2023)

Mid-range Ibis have four hotels just west of the railway station: Ibis Budget Bordeaux Centre Gare St Jean, 60 Rue Eugène le Roy, ☏ +33 8 9270 0239. Basic chain offering, rooms are small but clean and comfy. B&B double €80. (updated Jul 2023) Ibis Bordeaux Centre Gare St Jean Euratlantique, 28 Rue Charles Domercq, ☏ +33 5 5691 5452. Great location within the station building. B&B double €90. (updated Jul 2023) Ibis Styles Bordeaux Centre Gare St Jean, 68 Rue de Tauzia, ☏ +33 5 5691 5550. The most disappointing of the set, rooms were too often grubby. B&B double €90. (updated Jul 2023) Ibis Bordeaux Centre Gare St Jean, 19 Quai du Paludate, ☏ +33 5 5694 2525. Quiet convenient chain offering. B&B double €80. (updated Jul 2023) Best Western Plus Hôtel Gare Saint-Jean, 15 Rue Charles Domercq, ☏ +33 5 5691 7216. Comfy but some street noise. (updated Jul 2023) 2 Best Western Premier Hotel (HBEO), 4 Rue Martignac, ☏ +33 5 5648 0088. Charming 18th-century hotel, with fine furnishings throughout the hotel, with mahogany furnishings and beech furniture. Close to the Grand Theatre and the Triangle d'Or. B&B double €180. (updated Jul 2023) 3 Hotel de Normandie, 7-9 Cours du 30 Juillet, ☏ +33 5 5652 1680. Great comfort and service, and views of the Place des Quinconces. B&B double €220. (updated Jul 2023) 4 Hilton Garden Inn, 17 Allée de Rio (off Quai de Paludate), ☏ +33 5 6437 1510. Smart new hotel near the river, a 30-minute walk to the historic city center. There's also a food court nearby. B&B double €220. (updated Jul 2023) 5 A Blue Lodge in Bordeaux (C'est une maison bleue), 70 Rue de Ségur (Tram B or Bus 9), ☏ +33 6 7825 8583. Lovely friendly 19th century guesthouse with garden, near universities and Victoire. B&B double €120. (updated Jul 2023)

Splurge 6 InterContinental (Le Grand Hotel), 2-5 Place de la Comedie (opposite Opera / Theatre), ☏ +33 5 5730 4444. Five-star hotel by the opera house, run by IHG group. They're going for the old look, which in places feels a bit worn. B&B double €400. (updated Jul 2023) 7 Novotel Bordeaux Lac, Avenue Jean-Gabriel Domergue, ☏ +33 5 5643 6500. Comfy place with pool besides Bordeaux lake, near the Convention centre. B&B double €120. (updated Jul 2023) 8 Hotel Indigo Bordeaux Centre Chartrons (formerly Mercure

Go next

North: Soulac-sur-Mer at the tip of the Medoc peninsula is almost engulfed by sand dunes. West is the Atlantic Ocean and long sandy beaches. Arcachon is an attractive small seaside town. East is the UNESCO heritage village of Saint-Émilion, and top-rank wine châteaux. South is the Graves region. The river valley is lined with chateaux and big-name vineyards.