Bhaktapur

Understand

Bhaktapur has more temples per square meter than Patan or Kathmandu and is far enough out of the city to keep the crowds away. As a World Heritage site listed by the UNESCO, Bhaktapur has been heavily restored following an earthquake in 1934 which severely damaged the city, but you will still see signs of damage from the 2015 quakes.

Getting there

If you are not arriving as part of a tour group, you may take minibus (bound for Kamal Binayak stop in Bhaktapur) or big bus (bound for Charansingh stop in Bhaktapur) from the bus stop near Bhadrakali. You can save time by taking Express Bus (this does not stop in between except in Maitighar and Sallaghari) from Bag bazar in Kathmandu. Micro buses shuttle between Kathmandu and Bhaktapur, which provide a fairly quick way to get to Bhaktapur. For those who haven't experienced a public bus in South Asia, it will be a way to (literally) rub shoulders with locals. In either case it takes about 40–60 minutes and drops you off just outside of the city. The fare from Kathmandu to Bhaktapur was approximately 40 NPR by bus for local people. Foreigner's will be charged more, e.g. 50 NPR. You pay when you get off the bus. Since foreigners may be charged for a different price, do ask about the price before getting on the bus to avoid disputes when getting off the bus. The average cost for a one-way taxi from Thamel to Bhaktapur is Rs 1000 for the 16 km drive. You can easily hail a taxi or pick up a return bus to either Patan or Kathmandu just outside of the first main gate that leads into the city.

Getting around

Once in Bhaktapur, walking is the best way to experience the quiet, dusty lanes squares. Rickshaws, tuk-tuks or taxis are not allowed inside the city: an inconvenience more than made up for by the quiet and clean air. However, locals are permitted to use motorbikes, and consequently some caution is needed when walking around the narrow streets.

See

The primary reason for visiting Bhaktapur is because its Durbar Square is one of the seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the Katmandu Valley. There are other worthwhile things to see as well.

Insides Bhaktapur Durbar Square was the seat of royalty before 1769 AD. The building now houses the National Art Gallery. It has a famous Golden Gate dating back to 1756 AD and is the entrance to the marvelous Taleju Temple Complex and number of artistic courtyards including the Royal Bath Pond. The Big Bell in the square was erected by Ranajit Malla (1722–1769), last Malla king of Bhaktapur and was used for paying homage to Goddess Taleju and for assemblies of the general public. The entrance fee of the heritage site (a larger area containing the Durbar Square) for foreigners is 1800 NPR, which is used to partly fund repairs following the 2015 earthquake. If you plan to visit for several days, you can ask the counter to add a note to permit access to the city with the same ticket (at most one week). Visitors from SAARC member countries (Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Maldives, Nepal, Pakistan and Sri Lanka) and China pay NPR 500. Entrance fee of the heritage site can be paid at the main entrances of the heritage site and also the gate of Durbar Square if you did not enter the heritage site area via the main entrances.

Taumadhi Square's Nyatapol Temple dates back to 1702 AD. The colossal five-storied edifice is the country's tallest pagoda temple. The struts, doors, windows and tympanums, each embellished with attractively carved divine figures, portray the creative tradition of Newar craftsmen. The temple is dedicated to the Goddess Siddhi Laxmi, the manifestation of female force and creativity. Next to the Nyatapol Temple is the rectangular shaped Bhairavnath Temple. It houses a gilded bust of Bhairav, the ferocious manifestation of Lord Shiva. The three-storied pagoda was razed to the grounds by the 1934 earthquake, and its latest renovation was undertaken by the Bhaktapur

Buy

Bhaktapur is a significant pottery centre. You will see it everywhere, drying in the sun, displayed on tables and shelves in front of shops and homes. The city is equally famous for artistic masks made from black clay with colourful decoration. The masks portray various gods and deities and carry special significance in festivals. Thanka, a traditional type of painting, is also created in the city. Metalwork and jewellery can also be found, but there's more selection in Patan's backstreets.

Eat

Don't leave Bhaktapur without trying some of their famous yogurt with local honey: Juju-dhau, literally the "King of all yogurt." It's made from fresh buffalo (or sometimes cow) milk and is set to thicken in clay pots like those Bhaktapur is famous for. Small local restaurants are found on the main road into the city, but they will probably only serve Dhal Bhat Takari (lentils, rice, and mild vegetable curry) or Newari food: Samay Baji - flattened rice, marinated meat (usually buffalo, and often offal), lentils, pickled vegetables, potatoes, bamboo shoot curry, tea and momos. Tourist restaurants can be found in almost every building surrounding the main squares. Here is a sampling:

Bara-wa (An alley behind the five story temple in Taumin Square, in front of Black Olive restaurant). The ladies only sell one item: Bara-wa. It's a pan fried rice patty, like uttapam, with an omelette cooked on top, topped with a light channa (chickpea) curry. Marinated meat is an optional add-on. Rs 50. An additional Rs 50 for meat. a local Newari joint (exiting Taumani square northeast, along the main road, in an alley to the right, after the camera shop, on the right side with curtains covering all openings). Great local Newari food. It's best to go early afternoon. Rs 10-30 per dish. 1 Cafe Beyond, Itachhen-15, Bhaktapur (Just outside of Durbar Square walk for 3 minutes after the front gate. Walk along the main street for 1 block, you can find it on your right hand side.), ☏ +977 016620622. 06:00 to 21:00. Mainly Korean cuisine; most vegetables grown in local gardens. Mains Rs 400. 2 Red Chilli Restaurant. 3 khwapa chhen Guest House and Restaurant. Food and drink is okay there. As with many tourist oriented Nepali restaurants, you can ask them to make special non-spicy version of normally spicy Nepali dishes. The best thing about this restaurant is that you can eat or drink at the rooftop, with an overlooking view of the Durbar Square. (updated Oct 2024) 4 Mi:loco Cafe' n Res

Drink & nightlife

Coffee 1 Shiva's Cafe Corner, Durbar Square, Bhaktapur, ☏ +977 1 6610740. 07:30-21:00. Cappchino, espresso, Americano and iced coffee. Also serves Nepali dal bhat, Chinese, Mexican, Italian, Indian and Continental cuisine. US$2-6.

Alcohol 2 Black Olive (Near the Nyatapola Temple). Rooftop beer garden; serves food as well SBC Store, Suryavinayak, ☏ +977 1 076450, +977 1 171733. 10:00-22:00. All kinds of imported and domestic wine, whisky, beer. They can deliver.

Sleep

Bhaktapur can be a good alternative to Kathmandu for staying overnight because of its quiet streets and unique ambiance. Furthermore, it is located