Beykoz

Understand

Üsküdar, historically known as Chrysopolis in ancient Greek and later Scutari under the Ottomans, is one of Istanbul’s oldest districts, serving as a key gateway between Asia and Europe, on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. It boasts a rich history reflected in its Ottoman-era mosques, bustling markets, and scenic waterfront. Beykoz, once known as Amikos in antiquity, and later a favored retreat for Ottoman elites, is a green and tranquil district along the northern Bosphorus. Renowned for its lush forests, historic waterfront mansions (yali), and scenic coastline, it offers a peaceful escape from the city’s hustle.

Getting there

By rail Istanbul's terminus for high-speed trains from Ankara and other eastern cities is Söğütlüçeşme, which is only two stops from the 1 Üsükdar Station. The station is also a terminus for M5. Another metro line, M14, is due to open in Q4 '26.

By bus 2 Harem is the main bus station, with buses arriving from all over Asian Turkey. It’s mid-way between Üsküdar and Kadıköy and has frequent ferry links with Eminönü/Sirkeci. Cross-Bosphorus buses across the bridges are slow at any time, and tediously slow in rush hour (07:00-10:00 going west into Europe, 18:00-20:00 coming east into Asia). Buses across the bridges require two tickets rather than one. However the Metrobüs (Bus Rapid Transport) is quicker, as it has a dedicated bus lane, and only needs one ticket. It runs from Beylikdüzü out in the western suburbs via Edirnekapı just outside the old city and Mecidiyeköy in the business district to Söğütlüçeşme just east of downtown Kadıköy. Metrobüs stations are usually a little off the usual tourist trail, but easily reached by a variety of public transportation.

By boat This is the most pleasant method to go across the Bosphorus, and always quicker than trying to cross the congested bridges. The main ferry lines are:

Üsküdar - Eminönü Üsküdar - Beşiktaş Beykoz - Sarıyer There are also some ferry lines with multiple stops throughout the Bosphorus such as, Çengelköy-Kuzguncuk-Kabataş or the Boshprous Line.

3 Üsküdar Ferry Terminal (Üsküdar İskelesi), Paşa Limanı Cd., Mimarsinan Mah ( Üsküdar 200 m). (updated Apr 2024) 4 Kuzguncuk Pier. (updated Feb 2025) 5 Beylerbeyi Pier. (updated Feb 2025) 6 Çengelköy Pier. (updated Feb 2025) 7 Kandilli Pier. (updated Feb 2025) 8 Anadolu Hisarı Pier. (updated Feb 2025) 9 Kanlıca Pier. (updated Feb 2025) 10 Çubuklu Pier. (updated Feb 2025) 11 Paşabahçe Pier. (updated Feb 2025) 12 Beykoz Pier. (updated Feb 2025) 13 Anadolu Kavağı Pier. (updated Feb 2025)

By car O-1 connects to Bosphorus Bridge, O-4 or E-80 TEM connects to Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge and lastly 0-7 connects to Yavuz Sultan Selim Bridge. There is also a causeway (sahilyolu) from one end of the Bosphorus to the other.

By bicycle There are some marked bicycle lanes along the causeway. The bike lane is well-maintained but watch out for pedestrians which will be plenty during nice weathers. Or go overland, the wrong way round just to prove you can: see the infobox. One could also swim from the other side of the Bosphorus, no jokes. And no, not talking about the annual 'Bosphorus Cross Continental Swim'. It is not forbidden by law, as long

See

1 Maiden's Tower (Kız Kulesi), off Salacak (Boats hourly from Salacak (Public transport: Üsküdar 1.2 km, Üsküdar 1.2 km, Kız Kulesi 300 m), and every hour and a half between 11:00 and 17:00 from Galataport, Karaköy-Galata, European Side). Daily 09:00-20:00. One of the icons of the city is also called the Leander's Tower, on a Bosphorus islet off Salacak. The local myth ascribes its name to a princess, whose father wanted to protect her in this offshore tower from a prophecy that she would be killed by a snakebite on her birthday, but the snake found its way inside a basket of fruits — ironically a birthday present from her father — and you've probably already guessed the rest of the story. In actual timeline, it served as a defensive structure (there was a wall connecting it to the Asian mainland, and the Byzantines used to stretch a chain from here to the European mainland across the mouth of the Bosphorus to shut it to adversary shipping in times of conflict, but they didn't during the final Ottoman siege in 1453), as a customs and quarantine station, as a lighthouse, as a warehouse of various sorts of goods, and as a high-end restaurant before the last restoration finished in 2023 dedicated it as a museum. There is a light show viewable from the mainland every day at 21:00. €27 + 50 TL boat trip. (updated Jun 2023) Yeni Valide Mosque is just south of Üsküdar station, open 24 hours. It was built 1708-10. 2 Selimiye Barracks. Also Florence Nightingale Museum. (updated Feb 2025)

3 Kuzguncuk ( Fıstıkağacı 1.1 km, Kuzguncuk, Kuzguncuk; on the Bosphorus between Üsküdar and Beylerbeyi, just south of the foot of the Bosphorus Bridge). This attractive neighbourhood was home to a large Christian and Jewish population until some decades ago and still has a number of sights like two synagogues, some churches among which the Armenian Surp Krikor Lusavoriç, dozens of wooden houses and a Jewish and Christian cemetery. 4 Beylerbeyi ( 15 Temmuz Şehitler Köprüsü 1.3 km, Beylerbeyi, Beylerbeyi). is a small port with a popular fishing dock. There are many restaurants: those on the port-side serve alcohol and are moderately expensive, those down the side-streets are cheaper. Notable buildings include the 18th-century Hamid-i Evvel mosque, and the 19th-century highway tunnel (which is closed as of Dec 2018). But the standout attraction is the palace. 5 Beylerbeyi Palace (Beylerbeyi Sarayı), Beylerbeyi ( 15 Temmuz Şehitler Köprüsü 1.3 km, Beylerbeyi 600 m, Beylerbeyi Sarayı 280 m; under the legs of the Bosphorus Bridge), ☏ +90 216 321-93-20, fax: +90 216 321-93-

Do

A bosphorus tour is a must-do.

1 Emaar Square. Complex with a shopping centre, a skydeck and an aquarium. (updated Feb 2025) 2 Tarihi Çinili Hamamı, Çavuşdere Cd 204, Selamsız-Üsküdar ( M5 Bağlarbaşı 650 m, Marmara Üniversitesi İlahiyat Fakültesi 650 m), ☏ +90 216 553 15 93 (men), +90 216 334 97 10 (women). Daily 07:00-22:00 (men), 08:00-19:30 (women). Turkish bath cheaper than the more touristy ones in the European side. (updated Dec 2023) 3 Üsküdar Musical Society (Üsküdar Musıkî Cemiyeti), Halk Cd Emin Ongan Sk 10, Üsküdar ( M5 Üsküdar 700 m, Halk Caddesi 110 m), ☏ +90 216 553-66-55, [email protected]. Founded in 1918, the society is often considered the most respected of the social clubs offering classes in the classical Ottoman music, and catching up with their frequent public concerts is certainly a good way of entering the vast world of this genre. (updated Sep 2016) 4 Nakkaştepe. A park right next to the Bosphorus Bridge. Comes with an unforgettable zipline experience. (updated Feb 2025) 5 Hıdiv Kasrı. (updated Feb 2025) 6 Validebağ Park. Also Sultan Abdülaziz Hunting Lodge and Hababam Museum. (updated Feb 2025) 7 Çubuklu Silos. (updated Feb 2025) 8 Joshua's Hill. Believed to be the tomb of the biblical Joshua, it's the steepest hill in Istanbul which is closest to the sea. (updated Feb 2025) 9 Black Sea Coast. There's a string of small coastal resorts, from Poyrazköy just beyond the north Bosphorus bridge, through Anadolufenerli, Riva. Usual beach attractions, but the Black Sea is often rough so beware of the waves. There is also a big golf field, 'Mustafa V. Koç Course'. (updated Feb 2025)

Buy

One could find local businesses, bazaars and fish markets in cetrums of both Üsküdar and Beykoz. The shopping centers are:

1 Nevçarşı. (updated Feb 2025) 2 Capitol. (updated Feb 2025) 3 Akasya. (updated Feb 2025) 4 AcrLoft. (updated Feb 2025)

Eat

Budget Balık-ekmek(literally “fish-bread”, a grilled fish sandwiched inside half a bread) is an increasingly popular low-budget meal in buffets along the coast. Some of the various fish restaurants in the market area a little inland also sell balık ekmek and mussel sandwiches with garlic sauce onto the street. Other popular options include kokoreç and patso. Kent Lokantası, Beltur and Sosyal Tesis: Municipality run cafes & restaurants.

Mid-range Kanaat Lokantası, Selmanipak Cad. no: 25, Üsküdar (in the street behind the sea dock), ☏ +90 216 553 37 91, fax: +90 216 341-68-55. daily 07:00-23:00. Kanaat Lokantası, which dates back to 1933, is famous for its traditional Ottoman cuisine as well as a variety of fascinating desserts. The prices are reasonable but they accept nothing but cash. 1 İmren Restaurant, Validei Atik mah, Miroğlu Sk. 10/A, 34664 Üsküdar, ☏ +90 216 341 19 79. daily 06:30-20:00. Serves traditional Turkish food. You could try kelle paca soup or doner here. (updated Mar 2021) Nakkaş Kebap, Gümüşyolu Cad. Eski Taş Ocağı Sokak No:27, Nakkaştepe, ☏ +90 216 495 65 15. A large restaurant with traditional Turkish kebap and "mezes" (appetizers).

Splurge Restaurants along the Kuleli Street such as Yakamoz, Del Mare, Kai, Boon.

Drink & nightlife

The specialty of the Bosphorus is for sure Salep which is easily found in most of the cafes. Coffee chains are very popular: Starbucks, Gloria Jean's Coffee, and Kahve Dünyası (especially for Turkish coffee). Cafes along the Salacak Sahil (Salacak Coast) and also the ones Kuzguncuk, Çengelköy (such as Tarihi Çınaraltı) and Anadolu Hisar are popular. Municipality run Belturs could be found in Çamlıca, Nakkaştepe and Beykoz. As for alcoholic beverages, both Üsküdar and Beykoz districts boast traditional tavern or 'meyhane' culture. Meyhanes (taverns) mostly concentrated in Beylerbeyi. Popular options include: Inciraltı, Villa Bosphorus and Suppa. People who look for more vibrant and active nightlife in the Anatolian side of Istanbul, generally visit Kadıköy. Fountains could be found throughout the district.

Sleep

1 Mercure Istanbul Altunizade. (updated Feb 2025) 2 Vakko Hotel Sumahan Bosphorus. (updated Feb 2025) 3 Limak Eurasia Luxury Hotel. (updated Feb 2025) 4 Riva Hürrem Sultan Konağı. (updated Feb 2025) 5 Ajia Hotel, Çubuklu Cad. Ahmet Rasim Paşa Yalısı No:27, 34810 Beykoz (200 m N of Kanlica ferry pier), ☏ +90 216 413 9300, fax: +90 216 413 9355, [email protected]. Boutique waterfront hotel. Rooms include air-con, TV, safe, Wi-Fi. B&B double €250-625. (updated Aug 2025)