Astana

Understand

The settlement was founded as a Russian military outpost in 1830 as Akmola ("white grave" in Kazakh) and was given town status 1832, when its name was Russianized to Akmolinsk. The town was a mining town, and during the time of Stalin it was a destination where people were deported. During World War II, peasants from the western Soviet Union fleeing the advancing Germans were moved here. From then on, the region started developing into an agricultural center also. In the 1960s, the town found itself as the nerve centre of the Soviet "Virgin Lands Campaign", which involved ploughing natural steppe landscapes into cereal fields, with an eye towards boosting the agricultural production of the union to the self-sufficiency levels. It was accordingly renamed to Tselinograd; tselina in Russian denotes a fertile but uncultivated land. After the independence of Kazakhstan in 1992, the city's original name Akmola was restored. The city took over the role as capital from Almaty (the largest city) in December 1998, and at that was renamed Astana, meaning "capital city". This was changed to Nur-Sultan in 2019 after Nursultan Nazarbayev, the first president of Kazakhstan, who had just stepped down from office. The name Astana was restored in September 2022. Over the last decades the city has been growing and is undergoing a transformation costing billions of dollars, with top international architects assisting in trying to make it a worthy capital — not only of Kazakhstan but of Central Asia. Astana presents an interesting and intriguing blend of old Soviet architecture with the modern designs of Norman Foster and the like. It still does not offer the comforts and thrills of its Western counterparts, or of Almaty, but has its own charms and pleasures.

Climate

The climate is continental with extreme temperature differences: strong winds, long, cold winters and scorchingly hot summers. Daylight hours range from 04:00 to 20:30 in June to 08:15 to 16:15 in the winter. It is one of the coldest capital cities in the world and temperatures may drop below −35 °C (−31 °F) - −40 °C (−40 °F) already in autumn. Summer temperatures average around 26 °C (79 °F) during the day and 16 °C (61 °F) at night, but on warmer, hotter days can exceed 33 °C (91 °F) and 18 °C (64 °F).

Orientation The new town is along the southern bank of Esil, and has a city plan similar to an immense hippodrome. At a river bend, on a small hill is the presidential palace. Across the river from it is the Khan Shatyr recreational center, formed like a sail. The backbone of the hippodrome is the wide

Getting there

See Kazakhstan for visa information, but most western passport holders don't need a visa for visits of up to 30 days.

By plane 1 Nursultan Nazarbayev International Airport (NQZ IATA) (about 15 km (9.3 mi) south of central Nursultan). (updated Sep 2022) As of early 2023 there are flights from many places in the former Soviet Union, and a couple each from Western Europe, the Middle East and East Asia. World airports with connections to Astana include Beijing, Dubai, Moscow Sheremetyevo (and other Moscow airports), Frankfurt, and Istanbul Bus 10 and Bus 12 connect the airport and the city centre at least twice hourly, the price is 90 tenge. You can find the timetable at the bus stop directly in front of the main entrance to T2 (domestic) terminal. It's a one-minute walk from T1 (international) terminal. A taxi from the airport to the city centre is about US$20.

By train

2 Astana 1 Railway Station (north side of city). For timetables and tickets see https://tickets.kz/en/gd. Three direct trains run daily between Almaty and Astana, taking 20 hours overnight. For Russia, there's a direct train to Moscow (not daily) via Petropavlovsk; or travel to Chelabynsk (18 hours) for connections across the Urals and European Russia. For Urumqi in western China, a weekly train runs via Karagandy, Aktogai and Dostyk. (updated Oct 2019)

3 Astana Nurly Zhol railway station (10 km east of city). Opened in 2017 ahead of Expo to cope with rising traffic, many trains terminate here. Bus 50 runs frequently downtown, and Bus 48 connects the two stations. Still no sign of the promised metro. The station resembles an airport or new train stations in China - spacious, similar to an airport with divided departure and arrival zones. Station security is omnipresent, but tolerates staying in waiting zones for a long time, even after disembarking from the train. Features free Wi-Fi and a few power plugs. (updated Oct 2019) So which railway station? As of autumn 2019, trains from Russia are still using Astana-1, while trains to Urumqi in China are using Nurly Zhol. The fastest trains to Almaty also use Nurly Zhol, but it's a mixture for this and other Kazakh destinations. Check locally near the day of travel.

By bus 4 Saparzhay bus station (Автовокорский Сапаржай) (next to Astana-1 railway station). The city's bus station with arrivals from other major cities in Kazakhstan, relatively nearby major cities in Russia and Central Asia; as far as Tashkent and Yekaterinburg.

Getting around

By taxi There are plenty of taxis starting from local taxis, ending with the most used services like Yandex Taxi, InDriver, you can expect to pay 1000-3500 tenge for a trip within the city. Yandex and Uber were ubiquitous and even in tough weather conditions you shouldn't expect to wait more than 5 minutes for a car. As of January 2023, Uber is reportedly no longer present in the city, only Yandex. Street taxis: Stand at the side of any road and thumb down a passing car, within 3 minutes you should have a string of them. Tell them your destination and they will either drive off or gesture you in. It is useful to know numbers so you can set a price for the journey before starting. They are about half the price of official taxis, reckon 1000-1500 tenge for a cross river trip. Some drivers may start practicing not only their English with you, but may start a discussion connected with the area of Psychology, others will race along the streets like a maniac, slowing down for the obvious speed cameras. Use this method with caution and try to travel in groups.

By bus

Public buses (Astra Bus) have a flat fare of 210 tenge, payable with app, citycard or MasterCard (VISA having trouble aa of 2026). The buses are efficient and comfortable, but they are often full. Some buses are from the 1990s, but there are also newer buses from the last 10 years that match any modern city in terms of the quality of the bus. For bus routes, times and real time location updates, download the very useful Astrabus smartphone app. Another useful app is 2GIS. The municipal authorities have published a journey planner. But you must choose the bus number to see the route. This is not helpful if you know where you want to go but don't know which bus to take! Once you're on the bus, there is a route map, so it's worth taking a photo of that on your phone for later trips around the city! When you get on a bus tell the conductor your destination and they will either tell you when to get off or gesture you to get on another bus. The number 12 bus does a nice loop around the new part of the city with the palace etc., so this is a nice one for a tour. Bus 19 runs from the railway station, down Beibilitsky Street, then through the centre eventually out past the National Museum. Buses serving further regional destinations depart from Saparzhay (Автовокзал "Сапаржай) which is adjacent to the railway station. Times and tickets on their website.

By subway An elevated LRT-line is under construction between the airport and Nurly Zhol railway station. As of may 2026 the finishing touches to

See

The many modern and futuristic buildings of Astana is a reason to visit the city. However, on a closer look they're less impressive as they're poorly maintained and often underused.

Palaces

1 Palace of Peace and Reconciliation (Бейбітшілік пен келісім сарайы), Tauelsizdik Ave 57, ☏ +7 7172 74 47 44. daily 10:00-18:00. Completed in 2006 after a design by British architect Norman Foster, and also known as the "pyramid". The pyramid portion of the building is 62 m high and sits on a 15-m-high earth-covered block. All of this construction is above ground level. The building holds a summit of all religions of the world every 2–3 years. Though the landscaping of the park rises up to cover the lower levels, these are not in fact basements. This building offers a great view of the city, two art galleries, an archaeological and ethnographic museum, opera hall, and a cafe. 2 KazMunayGas Palace, Qabanbay Batyr Ave 19. The imposant headquarters of KazMunayGas, the government company controlling Kazakhstan's oil and gas exploration. It's made up of two buildings joined by an arch which the avenue to the presidential palace passes through. 3 The Triumph of Astana, Qabanbay Batyr Ave 11. 39-floor skyscraper in Stalinist style, finished in 2006. 4 Shabyt palace ("Шабыт" шығармашылық сарайы), Tauelsizdik Ave 50, ☏ +7 7172 70 54 45. Shabyt is a palace of arts situated to the right of Kazakh Eli monument. It is a dish like building made from glass. 5 Palace of Independence, Tauelsizdik Ave 52, ☏ +7 7172 70 03 80. Many political and business gatherings are held in this palace. The summit of the OSCE (Organization of Security and Cooperation in Europe) took place in December 2010 in this building; 56 countries were invited and it was one of the largest gatherings of Heads of State (bigger than Washington Nuclear Summit). Summits concerning ecology were held in October 2010 and 2011. 6 Ak Orda presidential palace (Ақорда) (left bank of the river), ☏ +7 702 383 3734. Tu-Sa 7:30-20:00. The presidential residence, inaugurated in 2004. It looks spectacular during nighttime when lit up. 7 Parliament building (Қазақстан Республикасы Парламентінің Сенаты), Mengilik El Ave 2, ☏ +7 7172 74 71 42. M-F 9:00-18:30. The two towers house the senate and parliament of Kazakhstan. 8 National education academy (Ы. Алтынсарин атындағы Ұлттық білім академиясы), Mengilik El Ave 4, ☏ +7 7172 57 72 03. A pair of shiny buildings on both sides of the main avenue, making up a beautiful set together with the Bayterek Tower. Some people think they resemble a masonic symbol. 9 Emerald towers

Do

1 Ak Bulak sauna Complex, 8th kilometre on the Astana-Airport highway (Olympic stadiums), ☏ +7 7172 497698 (reception), +7-705-140-7221 (cell). 24 hr. A sauna complex with 3 private VIP double floor saunas (for a party of 6, 9 and 12 people). Each sauna is decorated in a different geographic style and has its own swimming pool, Finnish and Russian steam rooms (banya), jacuzzi, hamam, entertainment hall with a banquet table, billiard, karaoke, TV with cable channels and 2 private relax rooms. The Complex has its own parking lot and conveniently located on the main Astana–Airport highway (not far from Olympic stadiums). Ak Bulak sauna Complex is an excellent way to enjoy cold and windy Astana and feel the bathing tradition of Kazakhs. Food and beverages are provided at the Complex. Different types of massage can be ordered at the reception. from US$20-60/hour. 2 Duman. An entertainment complex consisting of an oceanarium, 3D theatre, dome area, souvenir shops and cafes. The aquarium is unique for being located over 3,000 km away from the ocean! It has more than 2000 sea inhabitants, the representatives of 100 species of sea fauna from different parts of the world. You can also see "Mermaid" and sharks-feeding shows at the aquarium. In the Motion Theatre you can make an underwater trip under the command of captain Mac-Cloud during the World War II, to overcome the traps while rescuing the gorgeous princess, confined in the dungeon, go on a tour to the past to dinosaur age, escorted by a troll etc. 3 Astana Arena. The men's national team play at Astana Arena (capacity 30,000), 4 km south of city centre along Qabanbai Batyr Ave. The city's club FC Astana also play here in the Premier League, Kazakhstan's top tier. 4 Stadio Kazhymukan Munaitpasov (Қажымұқан Мұңайтпасов стадион, Qajymuqan Muńaıtpasov stadıon). 5 Barys Arena. Home to Barys Astana, the only Kazakh team to play in the Russian KHL. Good atmosphere and teams rarely sell out so tickets are cheap and readily available. 6 Saryarka Velodrome. The city's "Olympic training centre" and "cycling track," as well as the home venue of the basketball club BC Astana who, like the hockey team, play in the Russian league. 7 Alau ice palace (Alau Muzaidyny Saraiy). 8 Palasport "Kazakhstan", 9 Munaitpasov.

Performances 9 Astana Opera. Seating 1500, the opera house has acoustic properties designed by Enrico Moretti and Maria Cairoli that are internationally renowned. 10 Kazakstan Ortalyk concert hall (Қазақстан Орталық концерт залы) (next to the presidential palace). Designed by Italian architect Manfr

Buy

There are cash machines in shopping centres, on the street and in most hotels. Most accept Visa and some people have had trouble with MasterCard. Most banks convert dollars, euros and roubles. Pounds are much harder to get rid of.

Souvenir shopping 1 Talisman, 7 Republic Avenue and a larger shop on 18/2 Syganak Street. Daily 10:00-20:00. A great little souvenir shop boasting over 3,500,000 different types of gifts, including T-shirts, felt products, leather paintings, contemporary art, traditional musical instruments, desk sets and jewellery and stuffed leopards. A bit expensive and the staff watch you very carefully to make sure you don't shoplift, but there is a good variety of goods. (updated Jul 2016)

General shopping New Western-style shopping malls have sprung up with all the variety of shopping you would expect from a mall in the West.

2 Khan Shatyr (Хан Шатыр), Turan Ave 37, ☏ +7 7172 57 26 26. M-S 10-22. It's a giant transparent tent big enough to hold 10,000 people. The 150-m-high tent has a 200-m elliptical base covering an area larger than 10 football stadiums, and contains a park, a shopping and entertainment area with squares and cobbled streets, a boating river, minigolf and an indoor beach resort. It even contains its own monorail with several stops. While Astana is one of the world's coldest capitals with temperatures down to -40°C in the cold season, the transparent material lets sunshine in and helps to keep temperatures comfortable all year. It has a Greens supermarket - well laid out (the aisles aren't straight, so it doesn't have that factory-like feel of typical supermarkets). Prices are reasonable considering it's in the Khan Shatyr. There is also a Debenhams in Khan Shatyr. 3 Saryarka (ТЦ СарыАрка), Turan Street, ☏ +7 7172 51 56 06. M-S 10:00-22:00. Cinema. Supermarket. 4 Keruen Mall Astana (ТРЦ Keruen) (on the left river bank close to the Bayterek tower). Supermarket, cinema, Babylon (video-arcade/indoor rides for children). Food court. 5 Mega Silk Way (Мега Центр "Mega Silk Way Astana"), Turan Street, ☏ +7 7172 73 50 95. M-S 10:00-22:00. Cinema. Ramstor supermarket. Climbing wall. Food court. 6 Ramstore - Mega, Mega, 1st fl., Qorghalzhyn Hwy 1, ☏ +7 7172 79 14 85. M-S 10:00-22:00. Another chain of supermarkets that is popular among Westerners. They sell lots of things you can't find elsewhere such as macaroni and cheese, microwave popcorn, Worcestershire Sauce, barbeque sauces, tortilla chips, salsa and so on. 7 Asia Park Mall (ТРЦ Азия Парк), Qabanbay Batyr Ave 21 (next to the central mosque), ☏ +7 7172 97 87 6

Eat

Local specialties

Beshbarmak - a horse meat and pasta dish. Most restaurants that serve it will present a portion enough for two or three people. Boursaky - bread best served piping hot, resembles an unsweetened doughnut. Shashliq - these kebabs are often cheap, and the one thing you're sure to recognise on the menu.

General In addition to the places listed in Eat, many hotels also have restaurants (see the Sleep section below) Along Turan street (formerly Sara Arka), there's a strip of restaurants that are a little more expensive but good. They also have private rooms for parties, saunas, and even hotel rooms.

Budget 1 Cafe Shymkent, General Sabyr Raqymov (Block north of Artyom Shopping Centre). Daily 08:00-00:00. Cheap and cheerful place. (updated Oct 2019) 2 Melnitsa (Windmill), Turan 31 (near Khan Shatyr). Daily 12:00-00:00. Ukrainian restaurant with large dining areas. Lots of traditional dishes like potato pancakes and of course Chicken Kyiv. Live music in the evenings. Fresh bread oven. Great décor, like a farmer's hut. Mains 500-3,000 tenge. (updated Oct 2019) 3 Rafe, 5 Zhengis Ave (block north of river). M-F 08:00-00:00, Sa Su 10:00-00:00. A modern coffee bar offering Italian food with a twist. Be sure to check out the horse pizza. A few other cafés around town. 3000 tenge. (updated Oct 2019)

Mid-range 4 Line Brew, Kenesary 20, ☏ +7 701 155 1322. Daily 12:00-02:00. Popular with expats and locals alike, Line Brew features its own brew of beer, with an impressive menu that includes several delicious steaks, including one made of horse meat. (updated Oct 2019) 5 Ali Babas, 3 Bukeikhan St (north of the river). May-Sept daily 12:00-00:30. Popular summer restaurant. The waitresses and waiters dress in traditional dress and the menu offers a selection of central Asian cuisine. Prices are in line with Europe or America but the food is good. Fake bird cages hang from the roof which tweet electronically. Camel and horse milk are on offer alongside Leffe beer. 3000 tenge. (updated Oct 2019) 6 Turfan, Azerbaijan Mambetov 10 (was Alikhan Bokeikhan St), ☏ +7 717 239 0850. Daily 11:00-23:00. Popular cafe with Turkish and other Central Asian food. Limited English, just point to the menu pictures. Alcohol served except in Ramadan. (updated Oct 2019) 7 Sunduk, Sauran Street 14/2. M-S 12:00-01:00. Central Asian cuisine. 8 Saksaul, Northern Lights, Dostyq St 5, ☏ +7 7172 47 59 59. M-S 09:00-02:00. Restaurant with Kazakh cuisine and menu also in English. Good choice, although the staff doesn't seem professional all the time.

Splurge 9 Sattj, 32 Kaba

Drink & nightlife

Kumis - different varieties are available of this mare's milk, some are a little salty. Slightly fermented. Can contain alcohol. Shubat - local variety of fermented camel milk. Contains some alcohol. Vodka - supermarkets stock a huge variety, ranging from US$2 bottles that will strip your throat to US$115 bottles that are more for giving as a present or showing off your wealth. Shots tend to be drunk, rather than utilising mixers - don't feel obliged to down each and every one if at a celebration. Cognac - what we would refer to as brandy, again a wide range in the shops and restaurants. Same rules apply regarding shots - with all the toasts made at parties and other gatherings, you may want to pace yourself. There are many bars across the city, ranging from quaint neighbourhood 'dive bars' to upscale cocktail bars. Pinta is a popular chain bar, with establishments over the city, serving food, drink, and featuring live entertainment (both DJs and bands) on Friday and Saturday nights. Panayehali is similar to Pinta, though slightly more upscale, but with various locations around the city. Shisha bars are also ubiquitous and popular. Other popular establishments include:

1 Dark Side, Prospekt Mangilik Yel. 52а. An upscale cocktail bar, very popular among young people in Astana. Gets very busy on Fridays, Saturdays, and on Wednesdays when they run "2 for 1" on cocktails. May struggle to get a table on these nights without a reservation. (updated Oct 2025) 2 Line Brew, Kenesary Street 20. Line Brew is a relatively well-known beer brand across the city. Primarily a restaurant during the day, though as the evening turns to night it becomes more bar than steak house. Quite expensive and a reservation is recommended on Friday/Saturday nights. (updated Oct 2025) 3 Winners Pub, Dinmukhamed Qonayev St 35. "Hidden gem" of a bar within spitting distance of Baiterek Tower. Very reasonably priced considering its prime location. Also offers Shisha and Karaoke. (updated Oct 2025) 4 Harat's Irish Pub, Zheltoqsan St 2Т. Astana's Irish-style pub. Quite popular among expats, although the crowd still overwhelmingly skews local as there are not that many expats in Astana. Not the cheapest place in the city, but has live music a lot of nights and usually has a good crowd later in the evening. The block near Harat's has a lot of bars close to the river and is generally a good place to find yourself in the summer when you have a thirst. (updated Oct 2025) 5 Nirvana. Cheap and cheerful nightclub. Very basic compared to some of the preferred, more upscale establishments in the cit

Sleep

Budget 1 Hostel Nomad 4x4, Nurtas Ongdasynov Street 52A, ☏ +7 708 865 1940. Neat dorms, gender separated. Mix of locals and foreigners from all over the world. Kitchen and fridge available for guests, as well as sale of drinks. Walking distance from Bayterek tower and the Circus. dorm 2000 tenge, double/twin 6000 tenge. (updated Oct 2019) 2 Ibis Astana Hotel, Tauelsizdik Ave 38, corner with Bauryzhan Momyshuly, ☏ +7 717 270 8200. US$35.

Mid-range 3 Absolute Hotel, Beibitshilik Street 1 (by corner of Moscow St, 2 km from Astana-1 railway station), ☏ +7 717 231 4742. Good mid-range business hotel. B&B double US$43. (updated Oct 2019) 4 Hotel Altyn Dala (Алтын Дала), Bigeldinov str. 6, ☏ +7 7172 32 33 11. 5 Uyutnaya (Гостиница Уютная), Seifullin street, 52/2, ☏ +7 7172 346 310, fax: +7 7172 324199. 6 Akku, Ryskulov St., 22, ☏ +7 7172 324199. 7 Astana comfort hotel, Chubary village, Kosmonavtov street, 60, ☏ +7 7172 22 10 21, +7 7172 22 10 22. Four star hotel. 8 Business Hotel, Imanov street, 18/9, ☏ +7 7172 222 280, +7 7172 223 335. Four star hotel.

Splurge 9 Hotel Duman, Korgaldzinsko 2A (off Turan Ave), ☏ +7 7172 79 15 00. 18-story block with 213 rooms overlooking the park and river. Decent rooms with large firm beds and good bathrooms. The A/C struggles in summer. Ride the glass elevator to the 16th floor restaurant for the view not for the food. B&B double from US$44. (updated Oct 2019) 10 Rixos President Astana Hotel, Kunayeva 7, ☏ +7 7172 24 50 50. Plushest hotel in town: heated bathroom floors, step-in showers and jacuzzi tubs, LCD wide-screen television, and free Wi-Fi. The service is friendly and professional. There is a bar, a cafe, and two restaurants, conference facilities, spa and pool. Splendid breakfast with harpist. Security can be heavy when they have VIPs staying. B&B double from US$118. (updated Oct 2019) 11 Radisson Hotel Astana, Saryarka Avenue 4, ☏ +7 7172 670 777, [email protected]. 4-star just north of Ishim river with 180 rooms, clean & modern, with fitness center / sports club and spa. Rooms are modern with flat-screen TV and free internet. Wi-Fi in the rooms can be dodgy, but there is a cable alternative, and Wi-Fi works fine in the lobby/lounge. Hotel has a reliable Italian restaurant. Adjacent, Park Inn by Radisson seems to operate as a separate mid-range hotel. B&B double from US$78. (updated Oct 2019)

Go next

1 Burabay National Park (200 km to the north, 3h by train). Made up of Lake Burabay surrounded by rock formations and forests. As it's a holiday resort, the few hotels in the park are often full. (updated Mar 2023) 2 Alzhir, Memorial Museum of Victims of Political Repressions and Totalitarianism (Alzhir, Мемориал АЛЖИР), Akmola region, Tselinograd district, a. Akmol, Linear, building 2B, ☏ +7 7172 49 94 55, [email protected]. Former Gulag camp for female family members of those condemned to Gulag. Located in Akmol (aka Malinovka) next to main highway. Inside memorial building has documentary exhibits. To reach Akmol take the Astana–Korgalzhyn bus (departing at 10:00, 11:50, 13:00, 14:30, 400 tenge) from central bus station Saparzhay, get off at Akmol. Entrance 500 tenge, audio guide 500 tenge.. Almaty, depending on the train type 13-21 hours south by train