Almaty

Understand

History Although the Silk Road touched the foothills upon which Almaty sits today, it left little of the grandeur found farther south in Central Asia’s great caravan cities. The few inhabitants were nomadic herdsmen, with no substantial towns until the Russians colonised and built a wooden fort in 1854. An industrial town, named Verny, grew around the fort, although it was twice flattened by earthquakes. The Soviets renamed it Alma-Ata ("Alma" may mean "apple" – modern apples originated in this region) and the city became the capital of the Kazakh Soviet Socialist Republic. A railway and highway connected it to Russia. Trotsky lived in exile here for a year before fleeing to Turkey. The city was laid out on a low-rise grid pattern, with broad boulevards and parks, and has never had an organic "old town". During World War II, Soviet industries relocated here beyond Nazi attack, along with hospitals, universities, cultural institutes and workers from elsewhere (especially Slavs, Uyghurs and Koreans) so the city became quite cosmopolitan. After the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, the city became the capital of independent Kazakhstan and was renamed Almaty. For a capital city, Almaty was rather off-centre: hard up against lofty Trans-Ili Alatau mountains, the Kyrgyzstan border lies just south. Hence, in 1997, the government shifted the capital north to Astana. Though the capital no more, Almaty remains the country's business centre, its cultural core, as well as its largest city. In 2024 it had a population of 2,250,000.

Climate

Almaty's climate is continental, influenced by the mountains. Winter daytime temperature is about -2 to -5 °C, while June-Aug is around 30 °C. The best times to visit are April-May (though these can be wet) and Sep-Oct.

Talk Most locals in Almaty speak Russian. Kazakh, a Turkic language related to Turkish, is the state language of Kazakhstan and is also used. Many people in tourist-facing businesses speak English.

Visitor information Visit Almaty is the online portal and gives details of its eight locations: the airport, Zenkov 24A, Panfilov 84, Dostyk 56/3, Timiryazev 40/2, Orbita 2, and Omarov 2 foot of the cable-car. The Kerey-Zhanibek Khandar location is next to Medeu ice rink in the mountain resort of Chimbulak.

Getting there

By plane

1 Almaty International Airport (ALA IATA), Maylina 2 (15 km northeast of city centre), ☏ +7 727 270 3333. Almaty airport is the hub for Central Asia. Most westerners fly in via Istanbul, the Gulf states, Frankfurt or London Heathrow. Other international flights are from Russia (Moscow Sheremetyevo, Kazan, Novosibirsk and Saint Petersburg), Ashgabat, Bishkek, Dushanbe, Tashkent and Tbilisi, and from Delhi, Beijing, Ürümqi, Xian, Hong Kong and Seoul. The flag-carrier Air Astana operates these and most domestic routes, with competition from budget carriers. Kazakhstan is a very big country, so most cities have regular flights to Almaty, eg from Astana, Aktau, Aktobe, Atyrau, Karaganda, Kokshetau, Kyzylorda, Kostanay, Oral, Pavlodar, Petropavlovsk, Semey, Shymkent, Taraz, Uralsk, Urdjar, Ust-Kamenogorsk and Zhezkazgan. Arrivals is ground floor, Departures is upper floor, with a good selection of ground-side cafes and shops. (updated Dec 2024)

Ground transport Buses run from the airport 05:30 to 23:00, every 30 mins or better, and take 30 min to the centre. Every taxi tout will assure you that they're not running, which of course they are, otherwise they wouldn't be so insistent. See Get around below for fares and ticket options, but a ride into town is 200 tenge - pay the driver or conductor.

Bus 92 is the only one from within the airport, the stop is just outside Arrivals. This zigzags through the northern Turksib district to Sayakhat junction, then west along Raiymbek Batyr (for Almaty-2 railway station and city metro), along Nauryzbai (southbound) or Zheltoksan (returning northbound) to Abai Bvd, then out to the western suburbs. Occasionally this bus can't enter the airport precinct because of construction works, in which case join it at Mailin St. Other buses all run from Mailin Street, the boulevard just outside the airport. From Arrivals follow the traffic flow through the barriers onto the street, keeping right for traffic heading into town. You cross Zakarpatskaya the side-street that your bus will emerge from, pass the Favorit Hotel and a small supermarket, to find the bus stop where folk as cheapskate as yourself are waiting. Say 400 m, 10 mins walk. Bus 79 runs to Nazarbayev Ave (formerly Furmanov), and Bus 86 also runs downtown. Bus 106 bypasses downtown and runs to Sayran inter-city bus station, say 50 min. Taxis can be ordered at the booth in the arrivals hall, or arranged via your accommodation, or booked via Yandex. It may take 10 min to arrive, but it will be a sensible price, around 1500 tenge in 2024. At least, that will b

Getting around

The city is laid out on a modern grid-pattern, and "up" usually means south, towards the mountains. However it's a gentle gradient, and in places the gradient east is also upward sloping.

By Metro

The Metro has a single line. The northern terminus is on Raiymbek Batyr east of Almaty-2 railway station. The line runs south to Abay, then turns west along Abay to Bauyrjan Momyshuly. The Metro is open from 06:00-00:00, and is safe and guarded by police at all times. You need to put your bags through a scanner upon entering the station before ticketing. A single trip costs 120 tenge (as of 2026), regardless of length of trip. The tickets are paper with a QR code, buy them at booths ("kassa") within the stations. Contactless payment at the gates is also possible by Mastercard, Visa or Union Pay. There are no day tickets or similar deals for visitors, but for frequent travellers there are rechargeable multi-trip smart cards. Metro stations from the north are:

1 Raiymbek batyr (Russian: Райымбек батыра, Kazakh: Райымбек). North terminus, for Almaty-2 railway station & buses around Sayakhat. (updated Dec 2024) 2 Zhibek Zholy-Dostyk (Russian: Жибек Жолы). For Ascension Cathedral, Panfilov Park, Green Bazaar, Museum of Kazakh Musical Instruments and Kazakh-British Technical University. (updated Dec 2024) 3 Almaly (Russian: Алмалы). For Hotel Almaty, Opera & Ballet House, Kunayev Museum and Republican Book Museum. (updated Dec 2024) 4 Abay (Russian:Абая, Kazakh:Абай). For Central State Museum, Kazakh National Agrarian University, State Academic Russian Drama Theatre, and Kok-Tobe cable-car. (updated Dec 2024) Here the line turns west and runs beneath Abay Avenue to:

5 Baikonur (Russian:Байконур, Kazakh: Байқоңыр). For Sport Palace and Central Stadium. (updated Dec 2024) 6 Auezov Theater (Russian: Театр имени Мухтара Ауэзова, Kazakh: Мұхтар Әуезов атындағы театры). For Auezov Theatre, Circus, Rahat Palace Hotel & Kusteyev Fine Arts Museum. (updated Dec 2024) 7 Alatau (Russian: Алатау). For Mahatma Gandhi Park. (updated Dec 2024) 8 Sayran. This is a 2.5-km walk to Sayran bus station, as the lake lies between. (updated Dec 2024) 9 Moskva. This station is nearer to Sayran bus station, though it's still a 1.5-km hike north up Utegen Batyr. (updated Dec 2024) 10 Bauyrjan Momyshuly. Opened in 2022, this is beneath the intersection with Abay. (updated Dec 2024) Qalqaman further west is the next extension, due to open in 2027.

By bus

The city has some 170 bus routes and 9 trolleybus routes. Use Yandex Maps for network details and journey planner. In 2026 the cash f

See

Religious

1 Ascension Cathedral (Zenkov Cathedral), Gogol 40 (Panfilov Park, Metro Zhibek Zholy). Daily 07:00-18:00. Completed in 1907 and renovated in the 2020s - new saints were painted in, though presumably they were known to the hagiographers. The iconostasis is spectacular. At 56 m this among the tallest wooden buildings in the world, which you wouldn't guess from the smoothly-painted exterior hues of custard, icing sugar and coloured marzipan - it's more like a trap for Hansel & Gretel. Free. (updated Dec 2024) 2 St Nicholas Cathedral, Baytursynov 56 (Metro Baykonur), ☏ +7 727 267 5910. Russian Orthodox church built in 1909. It was used as stables for Soviet cavalry horses but reopened as a church in 1980. Main entrance is west side from Baytursnov, but there's also a little gate from the park just south. (updated Dec 2024)

3 Central Mosque, Pushkin 16 (Metro Raiymbek Batyr), ☏ +7 727 397 6390. Daily 05:00-22:00. Grand mosque with marble walls and spacious decorated interior. Free. (updated Dec 2024) 4 Sophia Cathedral, Latifa Hamidi 30, ☏ +7 727 397 4105. Daily 07:00-19:00. Built 1893-95 after its predecessor was destroyed by an earthquake, the church became the centrepiece of a monastery, but the complex was crushed by the communists. Only in 2007 were both restored. The tranquil monastery compound has a few other chapels you can look in on. Free. (updated Dec 2024) 5 Holy Kazan Cathedral (Svyato-Kazanskiy Sobor), Khaliullina 45a. Small, brightly painted Russian Orthodox Church with a gorgeously ornate interior. Free. (updated Dec 2024)

Museums 6 Museum House of Akhmet Baytursynov, Baytursynov 60 (Metro Baikonur), ☏ +7 727 292 1089. M-Sa 10:00-17:30. Akhmet Baytursynov (1873-1937) was a Kazakh intellectual active in politics, poetry, linguistics and education, so inevitably he was shot during Stalin's "Great Purge". (updated Dec 2024) 7 Museum of Almaty, Kabanbay Batyr 132, ☏ +7 727 267 5905. Tu-Su 10:00-19:00. Small museum of the history of the city, mountaineering and the Republic, housed in a former orphanage. Audioguide available on your own mobile device. Adult 1500 tenge. (updated Dec 2024) 8 Museum of Archeology, Shevchenko 28. M-F 09:00-18:00. A small museum housing mammoths, dinosaurs and similar. Free. (updated Jun 2026) 9 Kasteyev Art Museum, Satpaev (Metro Auezov Theater), ☏ +7 727 394 5715. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. Huge collection spanning Oriental, Russian and Kazakh arts, the Stakhanovite scenes from Stalin's era are fascinating. Abilkhan Kasteev (1904-1973) was a prolific and highly decorated artist. Adult 500 tenge. (updated D

Do

Saunas or banyas are where folk relax and socialise during the miserable cold months. These have different styles eg Moroccan, Nordic or Russian (where half the fun is flagellating yourself with veniki leaves). A two hour session with various extras might be 5000 tenge in 2024. There's some 30 saunas across the city, not including private hotel facilities or seedy "gentlemen's clubs", and many are part of large leisure complexes. A good example is Arasan at Tulebaev 78 near Ascension Cathedral, open daily 07:00-22:30. Football: FC Kairat play soccer in the Premier League, Kazakhstan's top tier, which plays April-Nov. Their home ground is Central Stadium, capacity 24,000, on Abay Ave (Metro Baikonur / Stadion). International games are played in Astana.

Events Nauryz Myrami is the spring festival, on or about 21 March each year. Indie Film Festival is held in September. Almaty Marathon is run in September.

Theatre Artishock is an experimental theatre at Kunaev 9. La Boheme is a theatre at Valikhanov 43, Metro Zhibek Zholy. Abay Kazakh State Academic Opera and Ballet Theater is at Kabanbay Batyr 110, Metro Almaly. M Lermontov State Academic Russian Drama Theater is at Abay 43, Metro Abay. KELT is an English language theatre within KIMEP University, Metro Abay. Uyghur Theatre is at Nauryzbai Batyr 83. Almaty Theatre is on Halyk Square off Al-Farabi.

Mountains 1 Kok-Tobe Park. Small Soviet-esque fun fair perched on a hilltop, where the highlight is getting there on the cable car. (The base station is at Luganskiy 2, east end of Abay.) Up top is a series of overpriced rides, games and attractions, and two restaurants; the wildest beasts in the "mini-zoo" are some hens and goats. The park is fenced in with no access to the nearby mountains, but you can walk to or from town via the service road. Adult return by cable car 10000 tenge, by minibus 3500 tenge. (updated Dec 2024) Route P22 (Dulati Street, becomes Svezhest) runs south up the valley of River Bolshaya Almatinka. Along this route are Kok-Tobe (the hill not the funfair), Tau Spa, Alma-Arasan gorge and Big Almaty Lake. 2 Tau Spa, Alma-Arasan Gorge 1/3, ☏ +7 701 733 4565. Year-round mountain spa with pools and cabin accommodation. Mixed reviews. (updated Dec 2024) 3 Big Almaty Lake is a scenic lake at 2510 m altitude, surrounded by high mountains. It glistens like a mirror, changing colour with the season (a deep turquoise in autumn), and freezing in winter. Towering over it to the south east is Soviet Peak (4317 m), to the south Ozerniy (4110 m), and to the southwest Tourist Peak (3954 m). Great

Buy

Money: exchange kiosks give reasonable rates. Those at the airport are open 24 hours, and there's several on Rayimbek Batyr south of the main railway station. Local specialties: Handmade carpets, felted goods such as dolls, rugs, and slippers made with boiled lamb's wool and natural dyes, handcrafted metal jewelry, including a "tumar" (a pendant that opens like a locket) and leather chess sets.

Markets 1 Green Bazaar (Zelyoni Bazaar), Zenkov 53 (Metro Zhibek Zholy), ☏ +7 727 273 6282. Tu-Su 09:00-19:00. A city institution, an extensive market in a lime-green concrete building. Fresh vegetables, dairy products, and meat, as well as clothing and other non-food household items. Seasonal prices, relatively expensive by Central Asia standards. (updated Dec 2024) 2 Barakholka is a vast bazaar in ramshackle metal sheds, 5 km northwest of downtown on A350, trading Tu-Su 09:00-17:00. It's mostly daily necessities and not touristy, but locals likewise appreciate occasional luxuries. You want to find a US$500 winter coat for US$50? It's possible after vigorous haggling, and it will be worth most of US$30.

Shopping malls 3 Trading House Passage is a shopping mall on Zhibek Zholy. "Arbat" is the nickname for the pedestrianised section of Zhybek Zholy, an artists' row. TsUM is the big department store a little further west, corner of Ablay Khan, open M-Sa 09:00-19:00, Su 09:00-15:00. Mega Park is a large mall at Makataev 127, corner with Seyfullin, open daily 10:00-22:00. Ramstore was the largest mall in the city when built in the 1990s but is now nothing unusual. It's at Furmanov 226, open daily 09:00-23:00. 4 Mega Alma-Ata is a large mall at Rozybakiev 247A, open daily 10:00-22:00.

Eat

Kazakh cheap places are plentiful, selling shashlik, soup, salad and so on. Burgers are popular fast food, typically with sliced kebab meat on a hamburger bun with pickles and garlic sauce. Bahandi is a burger chain with 8 city locations, the most central is at Baytursynova 61, two blocks south of Tole Bi. Alasha, Ostpanova 20, ☏ +7 707 7463 489. Daily 12:00-00:00. Uzbeki restaurant. Brace yourself for being sung at, danced at, and horse meat. (updated Dec 2024) Basilic, Shevchenko 127, ☏ +7 778 344 9000. 24 hours. Sit-down canteen with an English menu. Low prices and offers local specialties such as horsemeat. (updated Dec 2024) China Town, Mametova 47 (corner with Abylai Khan), ☏ +7 727 233 2152. Daily 10:00-00:00. Inexpensive Chinese eatery, large servings. Plenty of vegetarian dishes such as tofu. (updated Dec 2024) Crudo Steakhouse, Abaya 17, ☏ +7 777 279 0717. Daily 12:00-01:00. Steakhouse, mixed reviews on food quality and value for money. Good if you would like to try horse. (updated Dec 2024) Mamma Mia, Panfilov 109, ☏ +7 747 128 1457. Su-Th 10:00-23:00, F Sa 10:00-00:00. Chain pizzeria with filling portions, veggies won't starve. (updated Dec 2024) Namaste, Gogol 155, ☏ +7 707 790 0956. Daily 11:00-22:30. Good Indian food. (updated Dec 2024) Restaurant Princess, Tolebayeva 53 (corner with Gogol), ☏ +7 727 261 0627. Daily 12:00-00:00. Popular Chinese restaurant. (updated Dec 2024) Tandoor, Tole Bi 102, ☏ +7 707 388 9933. Daily 11:00-23:00. Good-value Indian and other Asian food. (updated Dec 2024) Tarih, Abylai Khan 104 (corner of Shevchenko), ☏ +7 778 146 5566. Daily 12:00-00:00. Great Kazakh food with an interesting modern touch. (updated Dec 2024) Tyubeteika, Satpaeva 32, ☏ +7 701 589 7619. Daily 12:00-00:00. Uzbek restaurant, good food with grumpy service. They also have outlets at Abylai Khan125 and Dostyk Ave. (updated Dec 2024) Venezia, Kairbekov 61 (corner of Tole Bi), ☏ +7 727 293 8167. Daily 10:00-01:00. Good selection of meat, veggies may struggle, (updated Dec 2024) Grand Zina, Kabanbay Batyr 85 (within Almaty Hotel), ☏ +7 700 437 0000. Daily 08:00-00:00. A cool restaurant with great mosaics. (updated Dec 2024) 1 MiMi (МиМи), Zenkov street, 70, ☏ +7 (701) 944-43-73. M-F 08:00-20:00; Sa 08:00-17:00. Little canteen where local people go for lunch. A selection of meals unfortunately all with meat; vegetarians will have salad, samsa and mashed potatoes available. Cheap for the city. 3000 tenge. (updated May 2026) Namo, Sergei Markova 38a, Almaty, Kazakhstan, ☏ +7 7066976555. Decent south indian food in an air-conditioned res

Drink & nightlife

Barmaglot Bar, Satpaev 3, ☏ +7 777 825 3030. Tu-Su 17:00-03:00. For evening drinks, gets lively after 23:00. A bit stuffy: there are strict age requirements (21+ for women, 25+ for men) and a dress code. (updated Dec 2024) WL13Bar (William Lawson), Bogenbai Batyr Street 102, ☏ +77088131313. 16:00-02:00. Irish pub (updated Mar 2025) Fuller's Pub Pheasant Feather, Dostyk Ave 116, ☏ +77719808181. English pub (updated Mar 2025) Yard House Pub, 2, Samal-1 Microdistrict (Dostyk avenue and Zholdasbekov Street intersection), ☏ +77475808868. Kazakh pub (updated Mar 2025) The Shakespeare Pub, 40 Dostyk avenue, ☏ +77717721900. Western beer and Indian food (updated Mar 2025) Harat`s Pub, 121 Makatayev Street, ☏ +77767775858. Irish pub (updated Mar 2025) Harat`s Irish Pub, 110 Panfilov Street, ☏ +77273546184. (updated Mar 2025) Напитки: The Bar, 555A Seifullin Ave. 19:00-02:00. Kazakh beers from $2 (updated Mar 2025) Munchen pub na Panfilova, 102 Panfilova Str. 17:00-05:00. (updated Mar 2025) Harvey's pub & grill, 223 Nazarbayev Str. Kazakh sport bar & pub with a variety of international beers (updated Mar 2025)

Sleep

Budget Apelsin Hostel, Zheltoksan St 1B (by Almaty-2 railway station), ☏ +7 777 008 4001. Very basic, only if you're stuck. B&B double US$50. (updated Dec 2024) Tahar Hotel is simple but clean, better than the grubby exterior suggests. It's at Abylai Khan 27, 300 m south of the main railway station. No air conditioning, so probably not the best option in the sweltering Almaty summer.

Mid-range 1 Astra Hotel, Zheltoksan 12, ☏ +7 7272 46 8688. Mid-range business hotel, clean, friendly and close to main railway station. B&B double US$80. (updated Dec 2024) Grand Aiser, Pozharskogo 1 (By Central Stadium, Metro Baikonur), ☏ +7 727 396 9999. Mostly positive reviews for this mid-price hotel. B&B double US$70. (updated Dec 2024) Hotel Almaty, Kabanbai Batyr 85 (Metro Almaty), ☏ +7 727 272 0047. Pleasant hotel facing the Opera House. Not to be confused with the place of the same name at Kuanyshbayev 38а, way out beyond Sayran bus station. B&B double US$90. (updated Dec 2024) Hotel Ambassador, Zheltoksan 121, ☏ +7 727 250 8989. Creaky old place but clean, and good value for what you pay. B&B double US$70. (updated Dec 2024) 2 Hotel Berkana, Aiteke Bi 83, ☏ +7 727 279 8866. Central but in a quiet area, good value for money. B&B double US$60. (updated Dec 2024) 3 Kazakhstan Hotel, Dostyk 52 (Metro Abay), ☏ +7 727 291 9101. In a 1977 Soviet block but smart and clean. B&B double US$100. (updated Dec 2024) 4 Hotel Kazzhol Almaty, Gogol 127/1 (Metro Zhibek Zholy), ☏ +7 727 338 3898. Clean, comfy place with restaurant and pool. B&B double US$100. (updated Dec 2024) Ibis, Abylai Khan 55 (opposite Mercure), ☏ +7 727 355 0355. Great value central Accor hotel. B&B double US$100. (updated Dec 2024)

Splurge

Mercure, Abylai Khan 53, ☏ +7 727 344 2850. Accor chain hotel, central, oasis of calm clean efficiency. B&B double US$200. (updated Dec 2024) 5 Holiday Inn Almaty, Timiryazev 2D, ☏ +7 727 244 0255. Smart hotel near the government sector. B&B double US$150. (updated Dec 2024) Hotel Dostyk, Kurmankazy 36 (200 m north of Metro Abay), ☏ +7 727 333 0000, [email protected]. Showing its age with crumbly fittings and indifferent service. B&B double US$180. (updated Dec 2024) 6 Intercontinental Almaty, Zheltoksan 181 (Metro Baikonur), ☏ +7 727 250 5000. Upmarket hotel with 4 restaurants and indoor pool. B&B double US$300. (updated Dec 2024) 7 Rahat Palace Hotel, Satbaev 29/6 (Metro Auezov Theatre), ☏ +7 727 250 1234. Grand exterior, poor scores for comfort and service. B&B double US$150. (updated Dec 2024) Rixos Hotel Almaty, Seyfullina 506/99 (by Almaty Museum)

Go next

Winter sports & hiking at Chimbulak, Ak-Bulak and Tabagan ski resorts, within a day-trip. Astana is the new showcase capital, with more of a mixture of cultures than Almaty. Lake Balkhash is along the road to Astana, so you could break the long journey here. Balkhash village (12 hours by bus) has a few hotels. The lake is salty east of here, but fresh to the west where rivers enter. It's the closest you'll get to beach action in this very land-locked country. Bishkek the capital of Kyrgyzstan is a 5 hr drive. From there see Lake Issyk-Kul. Tamgaly Petroglyphs ("Temple of The Sun"): This UNESCO site is 2-3 hours away by car (170 km west, 30 km past Copa off the road to Bishkek). The petroglyphs range from ancient (3,000 years) to "modern" (75 years), and feature pictures of the Sunman and hunting nomad tribes. There are also several grave sites. Watch out for snakes when it's hot. Turgen Gorge. In the national preserve or Ile-Alatau, 90 km east of Almaty. The gorge is some 44 m deep, with hot springs, waterfalls, and forests: these include the last stands of Chim-Turgen moss fir woods that once carpeted the area. Lake Issyk, not to be confused with Issyk-Kul, is a 90-min drive from Almaty, offers a largely overlooked clear picturesque lake surrounded by mountains. Charyn Canyon is 80 km long and as much as 300 m deep, eroded into fantastical shapes, especially along the 3 km stretch known as "Valley of the Castles". It's 200 km east of Almaty towards the Chinese border (follow A351) and often done as a day-trip, but longer tours of the area are recommended. Not far from the "Singing Dunes". Urumqi in China can be reached by bus. It's on the Chinese high-speed railway towards Lanzhou, Xian and Beijing.