Alfama

Getting there

The most popular and most fun way to travel into and through Alfama is on the 12E and 28E trams.

1 Estação Santa Apolónia (Santa Apolónia metro station), Avenida Infante D. Henrique ( Azul ). (updated Jul 2021) 2 Estação Ferroviária de Lisboa-Santa Apolónia (Santa Apolónia railway station), Largo dos Caminhos de Ferro. Portugal's oldest railway terminus serves numerous lines: international, Alfa Pendular high-speed, intercity, inter-regional, and suburban. (updated Jul 2021)

See

1 Miradouro de Santa Luzia, Largo Portas do Sol (Miradouro de Santa Luzia 12E 28E ). Good viewpoint in Alfama uphill from the cathedral along tram route. Lovely view over rooftops and river. Free. (updated Jul 2021) 2 Castelo de São Jorge (St. George's Castle), Rua de Santa Cruz (737), ☏ +351 21 880 0620, [email protected]. Mar–Oct: daily 10:00–21:00, Nov–Feb daily 09:00–18:00. Humans settled on this hill as early as the 8th century BCE, and the first fortifications date from the 1st century BCE. Before the Portuguese conquest in the 1147 Siege of Lisbon, the site was successively occupied by the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, and Moors. Sights within the castle include the permanent exhibition of archaeological artefacts with an emphasis on the 11th- and 12th-century Moors, ruins of the former Royal Palace of Alcáçova, a garden with native forest species, and a camera obscura showing the city's sights. The castle offers great view over the city and the river. If you have the energy, get there by walking from downtown, going through the fantastic old neighbourhood of Alfama. €15, ages 13–25 €7.5, disabled or seniors 65+ €7.50, children under 12 free; guided tour €5. (updated Feb 2023) 3 Igreja e Mosteiro de São Vicente de Fora (Monastery of St. Vincent Outside the Walls). Started in 1582, this Mannerist monastery wasn't completed until 1629, following the reconstruction of a 1147 church under royal decree. The church houses the Pantheon of the House of Braganza, where many monarchs, consorts, and their offspring are entombed. (updated Jul 2021) 4 Lisbon Cathedral (Sé de Lisboa, Igreja de Santa Maria Maior), Largo da Sé 1, ☏ +351 218 866 752, [email protected]. M–Sa 10:00–18:30. Built in 1147, the cathedral has survived various earthquakes and has undergone restoration, renovation, and modification over the years. Its elements include Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque styles. It has been a national monument since 1910. €5, children 7–12 €2.50, children

Do

1 Coliseu dos Recreios, Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 96 (Restauradores Azul Rossio Verde ), ☏ +351 21 324 0580, [email protected]. Large multi-purpose auditorium for musical performances. (updated Jul 2021)

Buy

1 Feira da Ladra, Campo de Santa Clara ( 28E ), ☏ +351 21 798 8000, [email protected]. Tu Sa 06:00–17:00. A lively outdoor market offering new and used products. Markets of this type have pleased bargain hunters since the 12th century in Lisbon and the Feira da Ladra name has been around since the 17th century.

Eat

Budget All these are around the Castelo de S. Jorge:

1 Restaurante Santa Rita, Rua de São Mamede 24c, ☏ +351 21 808 4412, [email protected]. Authentic, cheap Portuguese dishes in a very busy, shared-table restaurant. Mains €5-9 (May 2017). (updated May 2022) 2 Velha Gaiteira, R. Pedras Negras 17. A charming spot with a welcoming host. A delicious prix fixe meal was €12.50. (updated May 2022) 3 O Trigueirinho, Largo dos Trigueiros 17. (updated May 2022) 4 Café Parreirinha, R. da Guia 4B. (updated May 2022) 5 As Bifanas do Afonso, Portugal, R. da Madalena 146. (updated May 2022) 6 Taste of Pakistan, R. de São Pedro Mártir 46. (updated May 2022)

Mid-range 7 Chapitô à Mesa, Costa do Castelo 7, ☏ +351 21 887 5077, [email protected]. M–F 12:00–00:00, Sa Su 19:30–24:00. Great views are the main feature if you reserve terrace seat in advance. Good atmosphere; international-menu food is tasty but nothing special. €15-35. (updated May 2022) 8 Farol de Santa Luzia, Largo de Santa Luzia, 5 (near 28/12 tram stops), ☏ +351 21 886 3884, fax: +351 218 885 356, [email protected]. M-Sa 17:30-23:00. Great place to have typical Portuguese food before climbing to Castelo S. Jorge. ~ €20/person. 9 Malmequer Bemmequer, Rua de São Miguel 23-25, ☏ +351 21 887 6535. Tu 19:00–21:00, W–Su 12:00–15:00 & 19:00–21:00. Friendly and inexpensive; long menu of traditional Portuguese dishes. Mid-range. (updated May 2022) 10 Portuel Kosher Store, Rua Gomes Freire 146A (Picoas Amarela , 774), ☏ +351 21 354 0460, [email protected]. M–Th 12:00–19:00, F 10:00–15:00, closed Sa Su. Lisbon's source for kosher groceries. (updated May 2022)

Splurge 11 Zambeze, Calçada Marquês de Tancos (Alfama), ☏ +351 21 887 7056, [email protected]. A Mozambique restaurant on a "miradouro", viewing spot, offering a great view of the river, the Baixa area, and beyond. An elevator can bring you up and down the deep slopes, making it easily reach

Drink & nightlife

1 Lux Fragil, Av. Infante D. Henrique, Armazém A, ☏ +351 21 882 08 90, fax: +351 21 882 08 99, [email protected]. Th-Su 23:00-06:00. It's in a former warehouse and part owned by American actor John Malkovich. (updated May 2017) 2 Pois Café, Rua S. João da Praça, 93-95 (on the side street of cathedral Sé), ☏ +351 21 886 2497, [email protected]. Tu-Su 10:30-23:00, M 12:00-23:00. It's a place to relax, read a book, drink a coffee and plan your way around Lisbon. Also offers toasts, pastas, quiches and salads; features late breakfasts. (updated May 2017) 3 Portas do Sol, Largo das Portas do Sol (Alfama), ☏ +351 218 851 299, [email protected]. A cafe and bar on a "Miradouro", viewing spot, and thus offer a spectacular view over the Alfama rooftops down to the river. (updated Nov 2017)

Sleep

1 Alfama Patio Apartments (formerly Alfama Patio Hostel), Escolas Gerais 3, Patio dos Quintalinhos 1 ( 28E ), ☏ +351 21 888 3127, [email protected]. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 11:00. Two-star out-of-the-way lodging (but it's directly on the Tram line 28). Full amenities from fast Wi-Fi to free crepe breakfast only compliment the fun staff, who sometimes even go out with you at night. €59-111. (updated Aug 2021) 2 Ibis Lisboa Centro Saldanha Hotel, Avenida Casal Ribeiro 23 (Saldanha Amarela Vermelha ), ☏ +351 21 319 1690, [email protected]. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. Two-star, 116-room hotel. Travelers give this Ibis so-so reviews noting on the plus side the location only 5 min walk to the metro, and a good breakfast and on the minus side small rooms. €58-84. (updated Aug 2021) 3 Johnies Place Hostel, Calçada da Graça 18 (Right next to Graça's Viewpoint 28E ), ☏ +351 916 474 580, [email protected]. Cosy hostel. No extra costs for Wi-Fi, printing, breakfast (for private rooms). €19-67. (updated Aug 2021) 4 Lisbon Story Guesthouse, Largo São Domingos 18 (E of Rossio Square / Praça D. Pedro IV Restauradores Azul Rossio Verde ), ☏ +3