Ako

Understand

Akō was once the capital of the Akō Domain, which was neither particularly grand or rich as these things go, but is well known for one reason: this was the real-life home of the famous 47 Ronin, known in Japan simply as the Akō Incident. In 1701, Asano Naganori, the daimyo (lord) of Akō, was forced to commit ritual suicide after attacking a court official, Kira Yoshinaka, who had insulted him. With the Asano clan in disgrace, his samurai became leaderless rōnin, who banded together to avenge their unfairly slain master. After two years of lying in wait, 47 of the rōnin attacked Kira at his well-guarded residence in Edo, cut off his head and brought it to Sengakuji Temple, where they laid it at Asano's grave. The rōnin were sentenced to commit suicide and did so. The story has inspired countless adaptations including Chūshingura, the best-known of all Kabuki plays, and a rather insipid 2013 Hollywood movie featuring Keanu Reeves. While the town certainly milks every tourist dollar it can from the story, the careful reader will note that all the actual action took place in what is today's Tokyo, and even Akō Castle was razed in 1873.

Tourist information site The local tourist association has a multilingual guide site.

Getting there

1 Banshū-Akō Station (播州赤穂駅) is on the JR Akō Line, which runs along the southern coast of Honshu, parallel to the trunk JR San'yo Main Line to the north. Trains on the Ako line start at either Himeji (¥590/30 min away, trains every 30 min), the nearest Shinkansen station, or at Okayama, 66 km east, with nearly all services terminating at Banshū-Akō.

See

Most of the town's attractions are related to the 47 gishi, righteous samurai, as the ronin are known here.

1 Remnants of Akō Castle (赤穂城跡). The former residence of the Asano clan. Unusually for Japan, Ako Castle was constructed in concentric rings of fortifications inspired by European star castles. The scale of the project was always excessive for what was even then a small town, and the money ran out before they got around to building the central keep (tenshu). The castle was torn down in 1873 by the Meiji government and all the buildings you see today are reconstructions from the 1950s or later. Ōishi Shrine (大石神社) (within Ako Castle). Shrine dedicated to the 47 ronin.

Ako's other main attraction is the picturesque old port town of Sakoshi (坂越). From Ako station, Sakoshi is one train stop and a brisk walk away, or you can take a circuitous bus to get there.

2 Sakoshi Main Street (坂越大道).

Do

1 Ako Marine Science Museum (赤穂市立海洋科学館). W-M 9:00-16:30. Ako was historically a center of sea salt production. At this marine science museum, not only will you learn everything you wanted to know and then some about salt, but you can try your hand at making your own from seawater. Salt-making is included in price of admission, reservations recommended but not mandatory. ¥200. (updated May 2025)

Eat

Ako is famous for its oysters (kaki), which are farmed off Sakoshi.

Go next

Aioi Tatsuno Himeji Bizen Setouchi Okayama Taishi Kamigori Sayo